Cowardly puppy is afraid of people what to do. How to get rid of shyness in a dog. Cowardice or weak nervous system

Whether you like it or not, you come into contact with dogs in one way or another. Stray dogs, unless they are fed in your yard, are dangerous in two ways.

When they are rabid and rush at everything that moves, and when they stray into packs of more than a dozen dogs with a strong leader at the head.

Fortunately, these phenomena are quite public and do not exist in time. For better or for worse, sooner or later, both will be destroyed or scattered. But unfortunately, these are the most dangerous cases.

Even a single bite from a rabid dog or an attack by a pack of dogs is a very likely opportunity to quickly and painfully end one's life either in a clinic or directly at the site of the attack.

"Familiar" dogs. These are the dogs of your neighbors in the house, the entrance. Those. the ones you run into quite regularly in the yard and even the elevator.

"Unfamiliar" dogs. Those dogs that you encounter while walking in the park, jogging, and other situations. Perhaps you see them for the first and last time.

I introduced such a division because it provides various models your behaviour.

Dogs are pack animals, with a clear hierarchical pack structure. Leader and subordinates. Any disobedience is punished quickly and severely, sometimes by death.

Therefore, in relations with dogs, one should rely on the psychology of dogs - she always wants to take the place of the leader, if there is even the slightest chance to do so. Such is nature.

From this follow the following conclusions:

*Never fawn over a dog trying to buy her location with a caress. Do not believe this nonsense of trainers about "love for animals". To force an animal to do what it has not done for the next 5 million years can be either fear of punishment if you do not, or the desire to get food (i.e. hunger).

Some exceptions are dolphins, but everything is different there. If you curry favor with a dog (even your own), she will immediately understand that she is the Owner. And it will be almost impossible to convince her otherwise.

* If the contact is one-time and you do not want to position yourself in relation to her, act like a creature from another world . Like a bird in a tree. Those. show your dog that you are with her life paths do not intersect at all. In other words - do not pay any attention to it (or at least pretend to).

Do not look into her eyes, do not turn around in her direction (if the dog shows interest in you from afar, observe with peripheral vision). She is an empty place, and you are busy with your own affairs. Then she will not consider that you are encroaching on her territory, her place in the pack, you do not want to take away her prey.

General rules

Dogs are excellent telepaths. They feel your mood and state well, the presence of adrenaline in your blood. But adrenaline is different. There is an adrenaline rush of fear - you are a ready victim, you are afraid of a dog, and you are already ready to fix it. And there is the adrenaline of victory, the one that is present in the blood of the winner, the one that gives a feeling of delight.

Don't be afraid of dogs. Dogs are trained on a person (there are an insignificant number of them among those with whom you contact) and Untrained. To train a dog for a person is a very expensive pleasure and either completely frostbitten owners of fighting dogs or special services go for it.

The second, however, you should not be afraid. If it comes to that, then this dog's attack is peanuts compared to your further problems. In addition, they are trained for detention, and not for extermination and gnawing to death.

Untrained dogs do not have the skills to attack a person. Serious injuries are possible only by accident - the dog bit your leg - you fell, hit your head on the asphalt. Usually everything ends with bites of the legs, arms, occasionally torso, face.

People can also be prepared and unprepared for defense against dogs. Worst case- an attack by a dog trained on a person on an unprepared person or child. The likelihood of a fatal outcome for a person is very high. The best option for a person is a trained person and an untrained dog. The chance of death for a dog is almost 100%.

If both "contactees" are unprepared, then, as a rule, it does not come to a fight. The bite will most likely be one-time and accidental. Most likely, everything will end with barking and screaming.

In a conflict between a trained dog and a trained person, the person almost always wins, although often with heavy losses.

Therefore, it is best to always be prepared for a fight with a dog. Even basic training greatly increases your chances of getting out of the battle without serious damage to your body, not to mention survival. As they say, be prepared. If you want peace, prepare for war.

The best war is the one that hasn't started

An attack by a dog on a person (if it is not a special service dog and not on the orders of the owner), is still a rare phenomenon. In 99% of cases, everything ends with angry barking and mutual threats. But if you don't want to win this lottery, don't buy lottery tickets.

Never tease dogs, do not shout, do not swing at her, do not provoke her to aggression. It is also impossible to sneak up, suddenly and loudly turn to its owner, behave aggressively, make sudden movements.

Don't try to give your dog commands. Thus, you claim the place of the Master, whom she protects. Any of these actions for a dog means an attack on her, the owner, the territory. And, of course, it will cause a defensive response.

Do not expect to intimidate the dog, especially if she is with the owner. You can only intimidate a downtrodden single stray dog. She has certainly suffered a lot from people and she herself does not want to come into contact with them once again.

It is extremely difficult to intimidate a dog "with the owner", his bread, as a watchman and security guard, he will work out to the end. It's easier to kill him or incapacitate him in some other way than to intimidate him.

That's why The best way avoid conflict - do not provoke it yourself.

stray dogs

If you see that the flock has spread out in the middle of the road, it is better to cross calmly and ahead of time to the other side. No need to try to take the place of the leader of this pack. Do not tempt fate and do not drag lottery tickets. Since the flock is lying, and not prowling, it means that it is not on the hunt.

If this is not possible and it is impossible to disperse, two behaviors are possible. One of them is to demonstrate complete indifference to them. However, a completely unmotivated attack on their part is possible here. Little will seem to them. Walking through a pack of dogs is an unpleasant pleasure.

Perhaps this the only way when there is a reason to start a war first. Even on the approach, you should shout at the dogs in a loud and low voice, reminiscent of a growl. A dog is an animal, although it distinguishes articulate speech, it reacts to intonation. If you start with threats ("growls"), then you are ready for battle. And if she has nothing to defend here, she (they) will most likely retreat even after a scream.

You should defiantly show the dogs that you are armed - pick up (or pretend to pick up) a stick, branch, stone from the ground. Dogs certainly have unpleasant experiences with these objects and do not want to relapse. If the distance allows, you can even throw a stone in the direction of the pack, demonstrating the seriousness of your intentions.

familiar dogs

The best thing to do is really get to know them. You will have to live with them, as they say, i.e. collide constantly. Those. talk to the owner in a calm voice about the weather, his car, ask for advice about the dog (even if you hate this flea bag). Say a few compliments towards the owner and herself. In general, make sure that she smells you, remembers you and the timbre of your voice. Moreover, the friendly atmosphere of the first acquaintance is important.

"The owner's friend is my friend (although not the owner)." Such a confrontation will greatly reduce the likelihood of conflict between you and the dog. But never reduce it to zero, sometimes dogs even attack own owners, so you still need to be on the alert and feel the mood of the dog.

unfamiliar dogs

This contingent is the most dangerous, since it is “with the owner”, “on duty”, can be trained, etc. Some "dog lovers" - moral freaks, even like that everyone around is afraid of his dog.

It is best not to provoke conflict here. Cm. general recommendations. Behave independently, do not encroach on their interests, do not make claims. Even if the conflict does occur, the truth will be on your side, you were not the initiator, which almost guarantees victory in the trial.

If war cannot be avoided

Learn "materiel". The dog is a strong muscular animal, weighing several tens of kilograms. Her main weapons are her teeth and fangs. A dog is not a cat, it does not pull its claws.

The typical behavior of a dog during an attack is a jump, overturning the enemy, followed by biting. Some try to cling to the throat, some inflict multiple bites, trying to tear out pieces of meat.

This is about a trained dog. They are trained to dodge blows, very dodgy and agile.

The dog does not have many vulnerabilities, but they are. And if you know them, you can quickly neutralize any dog, especially using various "weapons".

Worst thing about a dog fight- this is fear of it and passive defense (falling down, covering your head with your hands, etc.) - in this case, you will definitely suffer and more than actively defending yourself.

So, what are the places on the dog's body the most vulnerable. This is primarily the tip of the nose, bridge of the nose, occipital part and a crown behind the ears, solar plexus, ribs, paw joints, coccyx. Vulnerable places also include eyes, nostrils (scent), mucous membranes, genitals.

These vulnerabilities must be acted upon mechanically (with a fist, fingers, improvised objects (stones, sticks, branches, dust, dirt), pre-prepared weapons.

It should be borne in mind that trained dogs and dogs individual breeds(fighting) are accustomed to pain and it is very difficult to take them for pain control. Therefore, you should disable them simply mechanically - do not pretend that you are breaking your paw, but really break it. Do not press your knee on the dog's ribs, but jump with all your weight.

Your goal is to KILL the dog rather than drive her away or "punish". She has already crossed the threshold of what is permitted and must be destroyed. By at least, she will not stop and will attack even dead man(she doesn't know if he's dead or alive) so you really fight to the death. And not virtual.

Psychological weapon

Some psychologists argue that many people find it psychologically difficult to fight dogs. Just as most people experience disgust and a feeling of disgust if a spider or a cockroach falls on them and an instant desire to kill them (although in our area these are the most harmless insects, and spiders are generally useful), so in a fight between a dog and a man, a person does not know how to fight a dog.

Therefore, the main model of his behavior is passive defense - to close, run away, reduce his losses to a minimum. The dog, on the other hand, has a complete and overwhelming moral superiority in such a battle and comes out of it without any losses at all and is the winner.

In order to defeat the dog morally, imagine that this is a small, vicious dwarf man with sharp teeth who will bite, who has done you much harm. But you must (and most importantly, have every chance) to kill him.

Morally, you should be prepared for the fact that, most likely, it will not do without bites. Some of the clothes will also be damaged. But the losses in any case will be less than you immediately surrender to the mercy of the winner. And if you are the winner, then the owner of the dog will start having problems. Feel free to assess your moral and physical damage.

Imagine the scene when you break her paws, ribs, choke her with your knee, tear her to pieces, her blood flows like a river, she squeals and tries to run away. Thus, you yourself will mentally prepare for the fight, and dogs - telepaths, will also "see" this picture of their bleak future.

Behave like Tarzan, show absolute determination and readiness to fight immediately. Inject yourself with the adrenaline of the Winner. Moreover, it is necessary to shout it loudly and in an evil growling voice, "Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa! What will I do to you! How I have been waiting for this moment! Well, finally! Shout anything, but shout "scary".

Except psychological impact on the dog, these cries will attract others. And the owner of the dog does not smile at all to have so many witnesses. Therefore, he will make every effort to prevent conflict.

Another psychological weapon is your behavior. Dogs are trained to ATTACK a person and defend themselves against his response. Untrained dogs act instinctively, as if hunting. And on the hunt, it acts exactly like this - they overtake the prey, jump, knock it over backwards and tear or gnaw through the throat. Her nature taught this for millions of years.

Another model of behavior - the victim stops and begins to defend himself. Then the flock surrounds it with a ring and those dogs that are from the back attack. In our case, there is no pack, and you are always face to face.

What follows from the analysis of the behavior of the dog during the attack? Gotta behave NON-STANDARD not in the way she expects. In the very dangerous case- the dog is pulled on the person. Behave NOT LIKE A HUMAN, but like an unusual animal.

Never be passive by falling and covering yourself with your hands.

Should never run away- still do not run away, the dog runs 5 times faster than a human. The exception is the case when it is possible to be guaranteed to be out of the dog's reach. For example - quickly climb a branchy tree, climb a ladder, enter waist-deep water.

By the way, the dog in the water is very defenseless. You then stand on the ground, and she floats. It is enough to dodge at least once, grab her by the fur, fall on her and dive with her or duck so that her muzzle is in the water. It'll all be over in a minute. Simply put, if she rushes into the water after you, drowning the dog, if desired, is as easy as shelling pears.

If there is no opportunity to hide, then you should take up defense, or even attack it yourself. For example, run towards her, screaming terribly, taking off her jacket (coat), waving improvised items (umbrella, bag, briefcase).

Then the dog turns from a hunter into a game, which is unfamiliar to him, he was not taught this. Other instincts begin to work - self-preservation. Even if the dog is not afraid and continues to run at you, do not stop.

If she jumps, dodge and give her a good kick in the groin or under the tail, hit the back of the head with your fist from top to bottom. A miss during a jump is the strongest stress for a dog, which sharply reduces its self-esteem - it has already lost one round. The main thing is not to let her knock you down during the jump due to her kinetic energy. But if she doesn't give up after that active form attacks, the game goes into the endgame.

You need to continue inappropriate behavior that the dog does not expect.

Immediately you need to take a stable pose and turn sideways to the dog. Bend your head down and cover your throat with your chin. If possible, take off your coat, jacket and use them to occupy the dog's mouth or throw it over his head, blind him. At the same time, you need to beat, beat, and beat on vulnerable points. If you managed to knock down a dog - a lying dog is not a fighter. Jump on it with your whole body and knee forward, on the chest, spine.

If you manage to tilt the dog's head back, hit the base of the skull with your fist and break its spine.

If you not big man, and the dog is large enough, you can even get on one or two knees for stability (but only after the dog jumps). Thus, you will become more stable and take your legs out of the blow - the most unprotected part of the body.

An important role is played by the possibility of disruption of the optical connection between the owner and the dog. Without visual contact with her master, she feels much less confident. Therefore, if possible, drag her along to the bush, behind the trees, around the corner, etc. The dog immediately loses the incentive to continue the fight. The territory is certainly not hers, the owner is also not visible, you are not a game ... What to fight for? In most cases, she will try to get out of the fight.

Should be used in combat different kinds"weapons". As they say in England, it doesn't matter what you have. What matters is how effectively you use it. Now about the "weapon".

Chemical weapon. Dogs have an unrivaled sense of smell. He is their weakest point. If you force her to smell SOMETHING, then her desire to fight disappears almost instantly and regardless of her desire.

Practically for dogs. various nerve agents from spray cans do not work"for people". But an excellent effect is given by pepper or mustard gases. Therefore, purchase only such cartridges or cartridges for gas weapons. Apply gas weapon against dogs can be from any distance. A dog, getting into a cloud of such gas, becomes disoriented very quickly. And if you manage to send a jet into the nostrils - the war ends immediately. This creature immediately has other problems, more important than you.

During the war, SMERSH workers used homemade mixture (called cayenne mixture) to neutralize dogs. It consists of a mixture of ground black pepper and tobacco in a ratio of 50/50. When buying tobacco, choose the smelliest one. Both pepper and tobacco are additionally ground to a dusty state (for example, with a coffee grinder). You can also add mustard powder.

This "dust" perfectly sticks and settles on any moist mucous membrane - the nose, nostrils, mouth, eyes and causes an unbearable burning sensation, and with an increasing effect.

And unlike gas, which escapes, dust is removed only mechanically - by washing. Those. dog neutralized for at least a few hours plus further treatment. And if she breathes it in enough to the point of burning respiratory tract, with contact with the bronchi and lungs, then it is likely that fatal outcome. And the end will be extremely painful.

Store this mixture in a plastic cylindrical cup. In the outer pocket. Moreover, the lid must be both tight and removed instantly and with one hand, for example, thumb. Vitamin bottles are perfect.

Practice snatching the vial from the upper breast pockets and dropping the cap.

"Noise" weapons

Dogs, especially trained ones, are not afraid of the sound of gunshots. Yes, and it is difficult to scare the untrained with an abstract loud sound. Another thing is to shoot her right in the ear.

My grandfather slaughtered wild boars this way. The pig was not fed for a day, then given liquid food. At that time, she was not interested in anything else. Grandfather calmly put the barrel of a gun with a blank cartridge into the pig's ear and fired. Death has always been instantaneous. From pain shock and cerebral hemorrhage.

On sale there are various buggers and devices for firing gas or noise cartridges. Having occupied the mouth of the dog with your left hand, insert the barrel into the ear and shoot. The dog is dead

In principle, large firecrackers can also be used, but not for noise, but by making gas grenades out of them. For this, a cayenne mixture is prepared, a small paper casing is glued around the firecracker, where the mixture is poured (about one teaspoon). The casing is sealed.

When a firecracker explodes, a suspension of pepper and tobacco, gunpowder is formed.

The only drawback is that firecrackers are not very reliable and are difficult to put into action unless special measures are taken.

You should use firecrackers with an incendiary head (strike on the box - threw it - after a few seconds an explosion, and not with a cord.

Electric weapons

These are, you guessed it, electrical dischargers. Since the dog has a thick coat and a thick undercoat, the discharger should be slightly modified if you plan to use it against dogs. It is necessary to increase the contact needles to 3-5 centimeters.

Fortunately, most vicious dogs are short-haired and it is not difficult for the contacts of the spark gap to penetrate their fur. If you have a spark gap with firing contacts, shoot only for sure, at point-blank range. The main place of electric shock is the neck and chest.

"Iron Tooth"

Remember Mowgli? His fight with Shere Khan? "The tale is a lie, but there is a hint in it, a lesson for good fellows" (this is already Pushkin). Quite a lot of household items have a dual purpose and can act as " iron tooth"- edged weapons. At the same time, the police cannot have any claims against you. Meanwhile, they can easily penetrate into dog neck,

* Comb. Let it be with a long thin pointed handle. A la stiletto.

* Screwdriver. Spatula or cross. Any with a rod length of 10 centimeters.

* Nail. Length 150-200 mm

A fairly optimal weapon is ... a pestle from a mortar, for grinding. From faience or metal. It greatly enhances the punch, and if you hit from top to bottom (which is natural in a fight with a dog), a skull fracture, broken ribs or a fracture of the spine are almost guaranteed

improvised items

It can be a stone, a stick, a piece of asphalt, foliage, dust, dirt. None of the items should be thrown. Especially if he is alone.

Hold the stone in your fist - a blow to it will be much more painful than just a fist. With a stick, you can keep the dog at a distance, and upon contact, you can break the dog's spine with it or poke it in the eye, mouth, or groin.

A handful of foliage can be put into the dog's mouth, into the muzzle. You will cause a little harm to her, but you will gain time, you will be able to take a more stable posture, take an advantageous position.

Dust and dirt can clog eyes, nose, make her sneeze. Only it is necessary to apply them "at point-blank range", in contact with the dog's muzzle.

Of the improvised items you have with you, there may be an umbrella, a bag, a bag, clothes ...

You should not act with an umbrella like a club, it is not effective. An umbrella works much better as a shield. Open and close it - the dog does not understand the essence of things. For her, even paper is an insurmountable barrier if she does not see the goal. And the suddenly changing geometric dimensions of the victim simply confuse her.

Consider the Incas, Mayans and Aztecs. When they first saw a rider on a horse, they thought it was half animal, half human. And they were horrified when the rider dismounted - the animal was divided. The dog (any) is simply frightened if the dome of the umbrella suddenly swings open in front of it.

The bag can "occupy" the dog's mouth. If you beat her in the face, on the nose, the dog will reflexively seek to bite her. Let her grab the bag. When she grabs it, pull it towards you with all your might. The dog will try to keep it. Take the bag aside, divert attention and kick the dog. If possible, knock over the dog, fall on it with your whole body.

If you manage to take off your jacket or coat, use it to distract the dog like a shield. Try to throw a coat over the dog, blind him and make it difficult for him to move. If you succeeded, fall on her with all your weight. If it was not possible to remove the coat completely, try to free half the left sleeve. Use it as a "stand" to occupy the dog's mouth. The right, free hand can strike.

If there is no dog "at hand", train without it. If you are shy - at the dacha in an open field, in the forest. In the end, just practicing a strike is already a great thing. You also need to know how to hurt. If you are not training alone, the role of the dog can be played by a partner (alternately).

In any case, you must be mentally prepared for a fight with a dog. Many people simply become numb if the dog pounces on them and go into a deaf defense, which consists in dodging the dog and plaintive cries. They do not even think about active defense, let alone attack.

Remember, a trained person can kill a dog, or at least neutralize it by knockout, almost instantly. For example, a counter punch to the nose, to the back of the head, to the bridge of the nose. He can take her under pain control with a simultaneous blow to the eyes with his fingers, a blow to the solar plexus, plug or tear out her nostrils with his fingers. A dog can take control of a person in rare cases, and then if he is absolutely unprepared.

Therefore, you must be morally stronger than a dog, feel like a master of the situation. Dogs feel it too. Your ideology should be "I will do with you whatever I want, and you will only do with me what I allow you."

Effects

During a fight with a dog, in no case take care of "branded" clothes, things, etc. their cost is a mere trifle, compared with the cost quality treatment from bites.

In addition, their cost, plus non-pecuniary damage, can be recovered through the court from the owner of the dog. It would be very stupid if you find yourself badly bitten due to the fact that you "cherished" your favorite jacket. You have ONE life and health, and you will buy new jeans or a jacket for yourself and 10 more times. And at the expense of the owner of the dog.

Any fact of a dog attacking a person (independently or at the instigation of the owner) is an emergency. In no case should such incidents be left without consequences. Even if the owner claims that it was you who teased his dog - the dog is in public place must be on a leash and muzzled.

The maximum that she is allowed to do is to poke around at the one who teases her. Here in the owner's apartment, let her even walk on the ceiling and on his head. But not in a public place.

Even if someone's dog just barked at you - this is already a THREAT, and a reason to contact the police, and the court, a deputy, the SES, etc. The first 5 of your statements may not be noticed. But the water wears away the stone...

Moreover, if your path lies through a "dog playground" where you could potentially be attacked, write letters. And send out registered and with notification. In all instances, even up to the President of the Russian Federation. Those who create problems for other citizens should have problems, and not vice versa.

Sometimes dogs can be shy. Fearfulness can arise as a result of previously experienced bad experience due to lack of socialization or learning gaps. Correcting your dog's behavior will increase his self-confidence and will also help you get a balanced pet that is well adapted to the human lifestyle. This article provides some tips for boosting confidence in shy and fearful dogs.

Steps

A conscious approach to understanding the causes of a dog's shyness

Remember that fearfulness can come from confusion. Even though the dog's behavior may just seem irrational, fearfulness can be born out of things that the animal doesn't understand. Know the reasons for the dog to show this behavior when the dog is shy. They may come from previous experience or lack of it, as the dog did not have the opportunity to normally present a similar situation before.

• Dogs may be afraid strangers certain situations or objects. Often this is due to a lack of awareness.
• Fearful behavior can also be the result of poor socialization, lack of training, and even past mistreatment.

1. Pay attention to signs of fearfulness. Some behaviorists identify four main types of behavior that occur when dogs are shy: freezing, attacking, running away, and irrational behavior. Attack and escape are fairly straightforward and quite similar to the human response to fear. Freezing is characterized by the immobilization of the dog as a result of a reaction to a source of stress. Irrational behavior can be difficult, but it is like hysterical laughter or fuss in people. Irrational behavior in dogs can be expressed by a wild explosion of energy, jumping, hitting paws, and so on.

   Reveal fearfulness from past mistreatment. Many overly shy dogs have experienced mistreatment in the past. You can identify some potential signs of such an experience by paying attention to certain dog behaviors and other traits.

   Take advantage of the classic conditioned reflex. The development of a conditioned reflex consists of combining causing fear experiences with positive experiences that change emotional reaction dogs. This creates an automatic Pavlovian reflex. good example A similar conditioned reflex is the admiring reaction of the dog to the leash, since at the sight of it the animal begins to think that he will soon have a walk. The following are some tips for developing a reflex.

   For especially effective result learning, resort to counterconditioning. The idea is to get the desired reaction from the dog instead of showing fear.

   During desensitization, bring the stressor into motion. Gradually increase the movement activity of the stressor. This will greatly enhance the dog's ability to bear the influence of the frightening object.

   • Then start moving the stressor when it is near the dog. The combination of movement and the proximity of a frightening object allows for an increase in the intensity of desensitization.
   • For example, if your dog is afraid of a particular object, perhaps a newspaper, start feeding him a few steps away from the newspaper, then try moving the newspaper with your foot on the floor as the dog eats the food.

2. Add noise to your desensitization lessons. Returning to the newspaper example, you can hide polyethylene inside it, which will create a rustle when you move the newspaper across the floor with your help. This noise, combined with the proximity of the moving newspaper, will help desensitize the dog to the stressor, minimizing his fearfulness in his presence.

3. Watch your own reactions to your dog's fearful behavior. Remember that some dogs like it when you express your admiration for showing them the behavior you want, while others prefer simply receiving a treat. Understanding and showing respect for your dog's preferences can also help minimize shyness.

   • The postures you take also matter, so you should always be relaxed, content, and positive. This will cheer up a shy dog.
   • When talking, do not shout or express anger. Remember that the dog will not be able to understand the reason for your anger, this will only reassure him of your unpredictability, which will not help at all to cope with his fearfulness.

   Encouragement and encouragement of the dog

   1. Encourage your dog's socialization with other dogs. If you notice that your dog is afraid of other dogs, find a very friendly outgoing dog to socialize your dog with. First, introduce the dogs very briefly, this should be done from a distance, and both dogs should be on leashes. Bring your dogs together daily, increasing the amount of time they spend socializing.

      • Consider agility courses or general training as they are also a good place to introduce your pet to other dogs and situations.

   2. Reward your dog with treats. If the dog is showing the desired behavior, such as being relaxed, reasonably confident, etc., give him a treat. This will allow him to make connections between you and positive things, but it will especially reinforce the understanding that good things happen when the dog is not showing fear. This is called positive reinforcement, which is very effective and highly recommended for shy dogs.

      • Be sure to pair treats with praise.

   3. Respect an injured dog. Speak calmly and let the injured dog get used to the environment. She can mark territory (even at home), but be patient and be careful with parenting techniques.

      • An injured dog may benefit from having a private, quiet space within the home. If you have other pets, you should carefully introduce them to the injured dog, however, they should not be allowed into his personal quiet territory.
      • Desensitize an injured dog to fearful people by offering to feed and play with the dog while you ignore it.
   • Having another balanced dog is highly likely to help your shy dog ​​recover from fears through display right kind behavior.
   • Remember to work with the speed of the dog itself and do not rush it, as this can create negative emotions, in addition, in extreme cases it can even be dangerous.
   • Forcing a dog to correct behavior through the use of choke and strict collars, as well as other negative devices, will increase the fears underlying the problem, since the use of such devices is associated with pain and confusion at the time of behavior correction, despite the outward ease and speed of correction with their help.
   • Watch for signs aggressive behavior such as growling, biting, and aggressive body language signals. When they occur, make a distracting noise such as whistling, clicking, and so on, and then redirect the dog's activity in another direction. Remember that aggression is a much more difficult problem than shyness, so start working on aggression reduction exercises before continuing to deal with shyness.

   Warnings

   • If a dog attacks you or tries to bite you, contact a professional immediately. Do not try to rehabilitate such a dog yourself! Understand that this is a completely separate problem from fearfulness, despite the fact that in a certain forced situation, one reaction can turn into another.

What to do if the dog is afraid of people? Is it worth considering such behavior as a deviation, especially given the modern, not always humanistic moods of society? Is it worth helping a pet overcome this fear? There is no single answer to these questions, and in fact, each owner makes his own decision. However, man and dog have come a long way together in development. From the point of view of dog psychology and cynology in general, dogs and people should not be afraid of each other.

Did you know that cynophobia, that is, the fear of dogs, is considered a mental disorder? Considering the opposite situation, we can draw a similar conclusion - if a dog is afraid of a person, it means that the animal has a too receptive, weak or traumatized psyche. The phobia may "stretch" from puppyhood or have specific causes. The tactics of war say: “Know the enemy by sight”, and with fear, the more you know about the causes of the disease that has developed, the more likely it is to overcome it. To begin with, fears are divided into:

• Having a reason- Fear can be the cause negative emotions, pain or dangerous situation experienced by the quadruped. Most often, the animal's reaction is based on the direct consequences of life experience. For example, dogs are afraid of some people if they have been in captivity or quarantined, bullying or rough treatment. All bipeds that have a similar height, silhouette or smell will remind the ward of the experience and frighten him.

• idiopathic- fears, the cause of which cannot be identified. For example, a dog is afraid of crying babies or very young children. Another example - a puppy is brought up in a family with childhood, but suddenly and for no reason begins to be afraid of one of the family members.

Read also: The dog is afraid of the owner: the causes of the phobia and ways to overcome it

Naturally, if you know the root cause of the phobia, it will be much easier to wean the dog from being afraid of people. You need to work in one direction and help the dog overcome his insecurities. Any fear of quadrupeds is based on distrust or insecurity in own forces. For example, a skirmish with a relative, which ended in bites, can give rise to fear of the whole living world due to the realization of one's own weakness. You need to learn one thing - if a dog is afraid, it definitely does not trust and considers a person as a threat to its life or health.

Mistakes of owners that exacerbate the dog's fear of people and methods of correction

Let's say a dog is afraid of strangers, you still don't know the reasons, but in fact the phobia has already manifested itself. How do you react to the behavior of your ward?

Most likely like this:

1. With a passive reaction- the ward runs away from the person who frightened him, you try to call the dog, but as a rule, to no avail. After, you catch up with the pet and scold him for disobedience. The second outcome, you feel sorry for and reassure the ward. Does it look like you? If yes, congratulations, you are exactly 50% the cause of the developed phobia.

How to: allow the dog to move to a safe distance in its understanding. If the dog is clearly running away, we do not use the “Come to me” command (or other commands), we call out by name or any other phrases, for example, “Stop” or “Come here”. Only when the ward has stopped, we begin to move with a calm step in his direction. Stop at arm's length, make sure that the pet is not afraid of you, go around him from behind and stand above him, slightly squeezing the sternum with your knees, fasten the leash. Stroke the dog's neck, but do not lisp. Then command "Next" and distract the pet with a few simple commands. Your behavior should be as calm as possible, but friendly, you should not show fear or concern.

Important! With a passive reaction, most often, the reason lies in uncertainty. Your task is to show the pet that you are always there and are not afraid of a frightening subject. Over time, the dog will begin to copy your behavior and even if frightened, will step aside, but not run away.

2.When an aggressive reaction- you shout at the pet, trying to stop the barking, run after him, trying to grab the collar, scold him for misbehavior. The four-legged perceives your inappropriate behavior as a fright, which provokes a more aggressive reaction. Does it look like your case? Your behavior reinforces the dog's confidence that people should only be dealt with by force.

Does your toy terrier fold its ears, tremble and ask to be handled at the slightest sharp sound? A poodle or a Yorkie, whining, runs away from all the dogs in the neighborhood? Or maybe the cute Pekingese barks at everyone, bites on the sly and immediately hides behind your legs? - All these manifestations of canine emotions have one root - fear. The baby may be afraid of everything in the world or some specific things, such as the sound of holiday fireworks or cyclists.

It may even seem touching to you - “Well, he’s very small! So fragile and tender, of course he is afraid! And if the doggie is only afraid of the neighbor's Rottweiler or the sound of a vacuum cleaner, then you can live with it. Moreover, sometimes it is even more convenient. At least he will not interfere during cleaning and will not run to flirt with a huge, vicious dog. But what if the minik panics for any reason? Yes, so much that it's time to give him a sedative.

Well, there are no unsolvable problems and fear can be overcome. Even canine. How? – To dig a little into its origins, draw the right conclusions and proceed with a targeted correction.

The main causes of cowardly behavior

Fear is inherent in all mammals and, of course, in us humans. Moreover, it is a necessary emotion. Without fear, the instinct of self-preservation will not work, it also teaches you to avoid danger, not to “step on the same rake”. How do puppies usually experience the world? Everyone sniffs and tastes. So I tried to bite my mother a little more painfully and got it from her! Once or twice, he will control himself. He pulled the tablecloth with his teeth - a vase of flowers fell off the table with a crash. It won't do it next time for sure.

But all this is not cowardice, but a natural educational process. Cowardice can develop when there is too much fear in a puppy's life.. Those. if he is often bitten, beaten. Or something regularly falls on it, pours out, pours, etc. Dogs with so many negative experiences are immediately visible. They bend down to the ground at the slightest cry, whine, often sit in secluded places. Alternatively, they show aggression bordering on hysteria. Such a baby simply does not understand how else he can avoid frightening circumstances.

The second, and very common among small dogs, will become absolutely the opposite cause of timidity is "greenhouse" conditions of detention. A little sneeze or papillon lives for himself in a large apartment, sleeps on a luxurious bed, eats the best, most spends time on the pens. Just dog heaven! One problem - there is nowhere to walk with him, and the pet is clearly not enthusiastic about walking. Even the sound of passing cars is afraid. “But how could it be otherwise if he heard them for the first time in six months or even later! It's like sending us city dwellers to live in the forest. And how will you behave when you meet a wolf or a wild boar?

Almost the same thing happens with a dog that lives in its own house, but never leaves the yard. Or the one that walks exclusively in a bag or on his hands. One step outside of its territory (bag) can cause a real panic attack in the ward. By the way, in this state, he can easily run away from you. He will rush wherever his eyes look until he is exhausted.

The third source of fear can be " bad example» . Dogs are social creatures. They enthusiastically run after cats in a crowd, bark at strangers, but they can just as well have general fear for everyone. Those. If there are many dogs on the run who are afraid of the sound of fireworks, it is very likely that your little one will learn from them too. He will simply begin to imitate their reactions. In the same way, your fears can be transmitted to him. The simplest example is Evening. Behind the door of the apartment there is some sound, a rustle. The dog was worried. But if you do not react, you will continue to sleep further. They got nervous and went to look through the peephole - they would probably bark. In the same way, he will feel fear in the master's voice and just his nervous trembling and .... also scared.

Cowardice or weak nervous system?

It is not uncommon for dog owners and some trainers to overly shy dogs they say - "she has a weak nervous system and add that it is useless to train them. Well, in some cases this is an absolutely correct "diagnosis", but not always. Therefore, it will not be superfluous for the owner himself to understand some of the intricacies of the psyche of the ward, and only after that make a conclusion about true reason baby's shyness.

To begin with, let's deal with this very weakness of the nervous system. And here is the main thing you need to know:

• There is no uniquely strong or weak psyche in dogs
• There is no clear scale that measures it all
• Increased fearfulness is not necessarily a consequence of a weak nervous system

The strength or weakness of a dog's nerves is determined by how quickly it can be brought out of balance. For example, the neighbor's zwerg is absolutely not worried about the constant children's cry in the house, and your Chihuahua shudders from any sharp sound. - Conclusion, your sensitivity threshold is lower. At least for this irritant. But perhaps she is calm about affection strangers, while the "neighbor" immediately begins to bark at them. So, here the nerves are already handing over from him.

However, occasionally such minis are born, which from the very childhood react to everything in a row and very violently. Even to the roar of his own mother. Well, if a spoon or a saucepan suddenly falls in the kitchen, then the kid will bury himself with fright in the farthest corner, under the litter, and will lie until he is reassured. And about the first cutting of claws, he will notify all neighbors with a heart-rending cry. No, not because it hurts, but because it's scary. And here we come close to our first conclusion - A weak nervous system is a congenital trait. If the puppy is not originally a timid one, then you will have to try very hard to raise him as a coward. This requires either a cruel owner - or content in a confined space.

With age (by the time of sale), some puppies can calm down a bit and become bolder, and some remain nervous and shy. It’s difficult to bring up such a person, and you won’t go to an exhibition with him.

You can also distinguish a weak nervous system from acquired fears by their number. Most often, small dogs are afraid of something specific and their reactions to a frightening object are of the same type. From a pet with a weak psyche, you can expect anything and anytime. Yesterday he was sleeping comfortably in your girlfriend's arms, and today he is trembling at her one touch. Why? She just doesn't act like she usually does. As he used to.

Finally, one more sad consequence the weak psyche of the pet will become poor learning. But not because he is so stupid. Not! It's just that he overreacts emotionally to positive and negative reinforcement, and without them it is very difficult to train a dog. So you have to be content with what such a dog learns on its own.

Obedient does not mean afraid!

Very often minik owners misinterpret their reactions to other dogs and confuse normal, hierarchical submission with fear. This behavior is most eloquent in puppies. At 3-4 months, the baby, meeting any adult, unknown dog, immediately falls in front of him. Sometimes it turns over on its back, paws to the top and froze. By this, he seems to make it clear that he is still small and ready to obey the elder.

An adult pet can also act if he feels aggression towards himself, but he is not going to fight. Anyway, he just came to get acquainted, and the owner has already written him down in panties ....

Real fear in front of another dog Your baby shows differently. It could be:

• Escape with tail between legs and/or loud scream
• An attempt to hide behind the owner or a request to take him in the arms. And already from a safe place you can bark at a scary dog
• Any avoidance of contact with the object of fear (backs away, refusal to go in his direction, etc.)
• Aggression by principle best protection- attack.

And it is this behavior that needs to be corrected, and not at all hierarchical subordination, which is business as usual in a dog pack and helps to avoid unnecessary conflicts.

How to raise a cowardly dog!

Yes, yes, it's not a typo. We deliberately decided to give you some "bad advice". Perhaps some of you will recognize in them your style of communication with the ward, and for everyone else this will become a vivid example of how not to do it. So, if you really like cowardly dogs, and you set out to raise just such a pet, then:

1. From the first days of his stay in the house, often shout at him, throw something and in other ways demonstrate your “righteous anger” for any of his wrong behavior
2. Do not allow to play with other dogs. And if on a walk you accidentally crossed paths with someone's pet, then immediately, with nervous cries, take the baby in your arms, saying - "Oh, oh, he will bite you now!"
3. Urgently and run take him away from any "danger", as soon as he trembles or whines. Better yet, let him sit at home. Nerves will be better. Yours, of course.
4. Forget about training. Does he go to the toilet on a diaper? - Wonderful! Why do you need something else? Not a Rottweiler after all.
5. Do not allow strangers, especially children, to stroke the ward. Let them buy their own and lisp!
6. Minimize trips to the vet and groomer. He's so nervous about them! Well, so what, that the ears have been scratching for a month, and the hair is all in tangles. You can handle it yourself. Internet for what? There's a wagon of advice! And there is a pharmacy nearby.

But the most important and pleasant thing is that you do not even have to follow all these recommendations. Choose 2-3 and it's in the bag! Your baby will be afraid of everything the same as you. And even more. What? Didn't you want that at all? - Then do everything exactly the opposite. And you need to start with socialization.

Proper socialization is the best prevention!

Socialization, in fact, is accustoming to society, i.e. society. And not some kind of selective, but the most ordinary, modern, sometimes too noisy, fussy. FROM different people, animals and different weather. And your main assistant in this matter will be ordinary walks.

Walking with the dog should begin immediately after passing the post-vaccination quarantine. And it doesn't matter what size it is. The socialization algorithm is the same for everyone, and it is something like this:

• On the first walks, let him explore literally 10-20 meters of the territory near the house. This will take 10 minutes.
• After 2-3 days, we begin to increase the walking radius. Avoid other animals for now. Carefully teach your pet to the leash. You can pick up and walk along the roads. Let him get used to the sounds of the city.
• In the second week, you can walk longer and start getting to know other dogs, but it's still too early for a general walk. It's time to start learning the basic commands.
• If there are puppies of his age nearby, great! Let them play together 2-3 times a week.
• Do not forget about the adequate attitude towards strangers. decorative dog should not be afraid of people! Therefore, let your acquaintances stroke him more often, talk to him, and the neighboring children play ball or catch up. The main thing is that they all do it carefully, taking into account the size of the dog.
• After 2-3 weeks, it is worth starting to get acquainted with the local "flock" on a common walking. It is important to do this while the puppy is small. Then the flock will easily accept him, and he will quickly adapt.
• At the same time, you can make the first trip to public transport, go to the market with him, visit, etc.

Important! Socialization does not tolerate fuss and haste. Therefore, never introduce your baby to several new things at once. Those. you don’t need to go for a walk, go to the market, and take the subway on the same day. Let him get used to one thing, and then continue to adapt it.

Consider also the characteristics of the temperament and character of the ward. He can tear himself off the leash towards everything new, or he can be cautious and even timid. Such a “shy” puppy needs to be encouraged and encouraged in every possible way. Praise him for every step towards the unknown, for any manifestation of courage. For letting himself be petted in peace or for not backing away when the neighbor's Yorkie approached him. Let him see your delight from him fun games with other dogs. And he will quickly realize that the world not at all scary when a beloved owner is nearby.

But remember that there is always a risk of going too far. And socialization too. Therefore, you do not always need to bring him "into the light", otherwise the baby from your dog will very quickly turn into a flock. The best option there will be 2-3 walks in the "society" per week, and the rest of the time it is better to walk alone with the ward, in a quiet corner of the park.

Cowardice Correction.

Prevention is good, even wonderful. But what to do if you missed the moment and your toy or spitz has already become shy and nervous? How to fix it? - Of course, the best way is training under the guidance of a professional. However, finding a specialist in small breeds, and even with such a specific problem, is not so easy. In the meantime, you are looking for it, you can start a small self-correction of cowardly behavior.

To get started, you need to clearly define a list of fears. Even if it seems to you that the dog is afraid of “everything in the world,” make a list anyway. For example, these are: loud sounds, other people's dogs, cars, water, etc. And in the future you will deal with these specific problems, and not with fearfulness in general.

This is followed by an analysis of the causes, and if this is definitely not a weak nervous system, then the same socialization will be your first step. Yes Yes! It can not only prevent the development of cowardice, but also help in correcting mistakes already made in the maintenance and upbringing of the dog. For dogs with a weak psyche, prone to panic attacks, especially fainting, we strongly recommend the consultation of a specialist dog handler and veterinarian. Because in this case, any of your mistakes is a serious threat to the health, and sometimes the life of the minik.

Now let's move on to the correction itself. And best method for small breeds will be positive reinforcement. For example, a dog is afraid of sharp sounds. Retire with him in a room, start playing. At this time, in the kitchen (outside the door, from another room), one of the family members knocks something. To begin with, not very loudly, to check the reaction and the “sensitivity threshold”. Does not react? - Excellent! Wary, but not scared yet? - We iron and distract the game. Have you started to tremble? - Confidently put our hand on the withers, say something encouraging, stroke. As soon as he stopped trembling (rushing about) - we give a treat. We gradually increase the strength and sharpness of the sound.

Particularly shy people can just be held in your arms at this time and give him a treat after each “signal”. Those. we kind of develop a new reflex that loud noise it's not scary at all, but ... delicious! We do the same with all other fears. Afraid of dogs? - We bring it in our arms, calm it down, clean it up, give it a treat. Shy in front of strangers? - Let them stroke him more often and talk to him affectionately. And against this background, the owner also praises him.

As you can see, correction is not at all an escape from frightening objects, but quite the opposite. The kid must face him and understand that there is no danger there. But never leave him alone with his fear. So you will only increase his fear. The presence and support of the owner is the most important thing for such a pet.

Cowardice correction is a long process that requires patience and strict discipline from you. During this period, the owner does not have the right to freak out, scream at the pet, punish him too severely or incorrectly. Fussiness and extra emotions of a person also harm. But it is important to take time to communicate with the dog, joint games and walks. Teaching the baby the basic commands will also be an excellent help. obedient dog trusts the owner more and this also has a beneficial effect on her psyche and increases her “fear tolerance”