How to make a country table. Making a bench around a tree DIY rustic table

A table, an essential attribute of every home, can be made of different materials, have a simple and intricate shape and carry out different functions, but it is completely impossible to do without it. Not everyone understands why make a table with your own hands, if such an ordinary item is easy to buy at any furniture store. Indeed, not everyone dares to make furniture with their own hands.

But that daredevil who deliberately takes up the matter will certainly enjoy the process and the excellent result of his labors. Some come to this, wanting to save money, especially if something unpretentious is required. Others, obeying a creative impulse, want to have a unique piece of furniture in the house that will increase their mood and self-esteem. In addition, a do-it-yourself table always has ideal proportions and matches the style of the interior of your particular home.

Product shape and design

A wooden table is an environmentally friendly, aesthetic and durable product that will fit well both in an apartment and in a country house. Moreover, there are options for special garden tables. It can be light, portable, or solid and massive, have different models and shapes:

• Angular;
• Oval;
• "Book";
• folding;
• Sliding;
• Transformer.

Transformers are perhaps the most interesting category of tables. When folded, they are very compact and are something like a small bedside table. If you put it against the wall, then it will take no more than half a meter. A table of this form is indispensable in conditions of limited space, when it is not possible to hold a large dining table for a dozen people. Hinged tabletop covers are attached using a hinge system. Transformers are usually rectangular, but there are also round models.

Before you get started, decide what configuration and size you need. The following are general recommendations from professionals:

• A handmade table must match the room for which it is created, both in size and style;
• When creating a street version, it is important to think in advance how many people will use it at one time;
• A folding table is a great option for hospitable hosts. Such a product will be used in assembled form for family dinners and will become a godsend at the time of receiving guests;
• For a comfortable feast, the place at the table reserved for each guest must be at least 70 cm;
• The children's model should be designed according to the age and height of the child.

Manufacturing will cost some labor and time, but the result will please. After all, a product created by one's own hands will be inexpensive and fully consistent with your ideas and desires. If you wish, you can make a whole furniture set, but this will require special skills and dexterity.

Before proceeding with the manufacture of the table, you should carefully read the drawing so as not to translate the materials in vain.

Tables can be divided into the following constructive types:

• Made from solid wood;
• Prefabricated (from terraced, tongue-and-groove, unedged boards);
• glued;
• Made in the form of a "shield" of lamellas.

Solid wood furniture belongs to the elite and has a rather high cost. The remaining options are simpler and can be used both in pure form and in combination. Glued worktops made of boards of different types of wood, made with epoxy, look very nice - this is a resin-based adhesive. Natural wood pattern and different textures create an incredible effect. Products made using this technology very strong and resistant to deformation.

Material selection

The most popular material for making tables and other garden furniture is wood. This is easily explained, because wood has a number of significant advantages over other materials, such as metal or concrete. The tree has such advantages as:

• Ease of processing;
• High aesthetics;
• Resistance to different climatic conditions;
• High depreciation;
• Possibility of restoration;
• Ample opportunities in the field of processing and painting;
• Safety for human health;
• Low cost of certain categories of wood;
• The beauty of natural patterns.

Natural wood is a material of beautiful natural texture, quite inexpensive, environmentally friendly and durable. It is moisture resistant with special processing, malleable for carpentry tools, therefore excellent for making home furniture and utensils.

The appearance of the finished product and its characteristics will depend on the type of material and its preparation, so you should start with the selection of wood. Each type of wood has its own hardness. The most popular tree species can be distinguished:

• Spruce, pine and cedar are softwoods. Easy to process material, but prone to deformation, drying out and cracking;

• Oak, beech, larch and birch are hardwoods. Beautiful and noble types of wood. Moisture resistant and durable. Power tools will be required to process oak and other hardwood products;

• Superhard materials - yew, hornbeam and acacia - have an extremely dense internal structure, are a high-strength material. Require professional industrial processing.

To make a wooden table, you will need an edged board or timber. A table made of slabs will have a brutal look and will fit perfectly into a country house in a hunting style. A wide slab can serve as material for an entire countertop. Another material for creating a countertop is a cut of the trunk. First, a trunk of the required diameter is selected, then an even cut is made and varnished. This technology generates a large amount of waste.

The durability of the product depends not only on the processing of wood, but also on the choice of wood species. Not always hard rocks are a good choice. In conditions of temperature difference and high humidity, the tree swells and crumbles. The best option for a street or country countertop is elastic wood. Characteristics such as hardness and elasticity provide resistance to deformation. Spruce, aspen, larch and linden can boast of such properties.

Before starting carpentry work, the wood must be sanded and treated with an antiseptic, and at the end it will need to be varnished. In addition, the stain will give the product a finished look.

Instrument preparation

If you are inspired by new ideas and decide to make a wooden table with your own hands, you will need to prepare the following tools for work:

• gage;
• Pilu;
• Electric jigsaw;
• Hacksaw;
• Jointer;
• cutter;
• Screwdriver;
• Drill;
• grinding device;
• clamps;
• Pencil,
• Roulette
• Square.

In order for the work to be argued, consider the shape and size of the product, prepare the drawings. The size of the product will depend on the area allotted for it, and the average height is 70 cm. Here is a list of materials needed for work:

• Antiseptic;
• Sandpaper of varying degrees of graininess;
• boards;
• Beam or slab;
• Paint and stain;
• Glue.

For a standard family of four, a square-shaped table with a side width of one meter is suitable. The size of 120 by 90 cm will accommodate both hosts and guests.

Building a drawing

The drawing is a diagram that clearly tells about the sequence of actions, following which the expected result is guaranteed. If a unique design is conceived, then you will have to work on the diagram and drawings on your own. To do this, you can use a computer program, then print the received documents to have a visual guide.

Parts manufacturing

The step by step process of making wood countertops can be described as follows:

• Select the required amount of materials. For a standard width, you will need 6-7 boards 3 cm thick. Only perfectly flat, jointed boards are suitable. Knots are not a hindrance.
• Subject the tree to an antiseptic treatment and dry thoroughly.
• Lay out the boards in the shape of an even rectangle. Align joints.
• Attach a bar on both sides and cut evenly.

• Screw the beam to the boards. On the back of the countertop, in the center of the boards on each side, drill a hole for the bolt through the bar 2/3. On the timber, make a recess wider so that the bolt head sinks.
• Round corners.
• Attach the board diagonally from below with self-tapping screws smeared with glue.
• Sand the surface first with a coarse sandpaper, then with a softer one.
• Coat the product with stain and varnish. The table can be painted if desired.

Homemade countertop made of glued solid wood

Tables made of such material have an even and uniform structure, do not have joints and slots. Another argument in favor of this technology will be resistance to deformation and cracking. To make a table, you will need 4 boards with smoothly planed edges, having the following parameters - 1x1.5x0.5 m. The algorithm of work is as follows:

• At the ends at a distance of 10-12 cm, make holes 8-12 mm in size. They are needed for fastening dowels and dowels. Holes in the two side boards are made on one side only.
• Correctly fold the boards before processing with glue.
• Sand the boards, smear with glue.
• Insert the dowels and fasten the boards.
• Align the ends and make sure that each board is in the correct position.
• Lay the finished tabletop on a flat surface and firmly squeeze it with a clamp.
• Leave to dry.

Making a round table

To implement the idea of ​​​​creating a round table with your own hands, you need to have the following materials:

• Square beam (width - 100 mm, length 750 mm - 4 pcs;
• Boards 100 by 20 mm, length 750 mm - 2 pcs;
• Boards 250 by 40 mm, length 2000 mm - 4 pcs;
• Boards 100 by 20 mm, length 800 mm - 2 pcs;
• Boards 100 by 20 mm, 1600 mm long - 2 pcs.

Step-by-step instructions for creating a handmade round table:

• Stack four long boards tightly together.
• Draw a circle.
• Cut along the line with a jigsaw.
• Make a rectangular frame and fasten the circle with screws.

• Attach the legs to the frame.
• Check stability, and then disassemble.
• Treat the wood with sandpaper. First hard, then soft.
• Cover with stain and varnish.

At first glance, it seems that the most important part of the table is the table top. However, do not underestimate the legs of the product. After all, they decorate the table and give it a certain style. The legs must match the basic style of the model and the necessary parameters.

The paradox is that the more complex and pretentious the legs of the table, the less they will last. The most reliable will be simple wooden, stable and light supports. Drawings for them can not be done. Steps for making table legs:

• Selection of four equal in length (85 cm) bars;
• Installation of bars at the corners of the tabletop;
• Connection on each side with boards or bars: two equal in length, and two in width;
• This design is glued to the table and left to dry.

The table does not always have standard four legs, sometimes craftsmen resort to creating a base frame and one or two legs. Glue can be replaced with furniture corners that are fastened with self-tapping screws, or both options can be used for reliability. You can create an unusual fantasy model by evenly attaching a countertop to ornate and whimsical tree roots. It will be an amazing product that only you will have.

Assembly Features

Holes are drilled in each element of the product, then the parts are connected with bolts, which makes the product really durable. You can enhance the effect with fixing with good glue. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from the inside at an acute angle with respect to the board. If the finished product wobbles noticeably, use special belts with clamps. This will help make the design more reliable and stable.

For the legs, wooden bars are taken, which must be processed with a planer in the shape of a cone. Carved balusters are also great for this, which you can either buy or grind yourself on a lathe. By doing the construction with your own hands, a person acquires skills in working with wood, so if it becomes necessary to repair the product, this will not cause difficulties. You will already have all the necessary arsenal of tools. In addition, you will need wood and funds for the restoration of old wooden products.

Treatment

Getting a good and solid result is not so difficult. The main thing is to comply with all the necessary conditions. After carrying out the main work, the time comes for the final, but no less important stage - processing the product with varnish. In order to properly carry out this operation, observe the following rules:

• Sand the edges of the countertop by hand;
• Apply a quality varnish to the entire product. In addition, painting some parts of the table with paint will look very decorative;
• Flaws in the work are well masked with a putty that matches the color.

The most popular option for decorating a wooden table is to cover its surface with a clear or colored varnish, which will emphasize the natural wood pattern and protect it from external influences.

In order for a hand-made product to serve for many years, remaining the pride of the owner, It is recommended to follow simple rules:

• Avoid direct contact of the product with the open sun and do not leave it outside in the rain;
• Maintain surface cleanliness
• Treat with polish;
• In winter, keep the table indoors so that the varnish coating does not suffer.

Before assembly, each wooden part must be treated with fire retardants, which will serve as protection against decay, increase moisture resistance and fire resistance.

Exterior finish and design

The most enjoyable stage of making furniture with your own hands, of course, is the decorative finish, which each master performs in his own way. In order to get the original model, you need to think over the external design of the product. Sections of medium-sized trunks, decoratively laid out on the tabletop, will come to your aid. Also a wonderful decoration is wood carving. Carved legs and a tabletop will give the product elegance and lightness.

Many people prefer to decorate the countertop under glass. This option is suitable if the table is located indoors. A hand-painted table is unlikely to go unnoticed by guests. Such a product will bring a special flavor to any room.

For those who are not strong in drawing, the option of transferring the picture through a stencil is suitable. This is really extremely simple, but there are some nuances: it is recommended to apply the pattern with acrylic paints, since they form a thin film when cured, so they do not spread.

Allow the previous one to dry before applying a new coat of paint. You can work with both a brush and a roller.

The frame around the edges of the tabletop always looks decent. Masking tape will help create a perfectly even line. Cover the finished drawing with varnish. The simplest and most proven option is to play with the color of the boards. Using paint, stain and sandpaper, you can create the effect of aged wood. Products "under the noble antiquity" always look impressive and expensive.

Decoupage technique is just a godsend for creating a decor for a new wooden table or restoring retro furniture. This method consists in attaching a paper picture to the surface of the product using furniture varnish. The choice of drawing is carried out to the taste of the owner. These can be images of nature and animals, rhythmic patterns, black and white graphics, and even photos from the family archive. The material can serve as napkins, newspaper clippings and vintage postcards.

The new table is easily ennobled with mosaic tiles. Today, its wide selection is presented in construction stores. It is advisable to use one set of tiles so that there are no inconsistencies in height and unnecessary relief is not created, which can damage the pattern and make the table inconvenient to use. In addition to the mosaic, you need to purchase glue and grout. Briefly, the process of creating a countertop with mosaic masonry can be described as follows:

• The surface of the countertop is degreased with alcohol;
• Then processed with sandpaper;
• Start laying out from the outer edges;
• Fix the elements;

• Leave for a day to dry;
• Dilute the grout to the desired consistency;
• Thoroughly coat the seams;
• After an hour, remove the remnants of the grout;
• Let the product rest for two days, then wipe it with a cloth with the addition of vegetable oil for shine.

The budget option for mosaic decor will be egg shell table decoration. It is necessary to crush the shell into medium-sized crumbs, then lay it out with tweezers on the surface of the countertop previously lubricated with PVA glue. Try to keep the gaps between the shells to a minimum. If desired, the shell can be painted.

Very noble and expensive look countertops with potal decoration. Potal is a thin sheet of metal alloys that imitates gold. This material can be purchased at art stores. The necessary pattern is applied with special glue on the surface of the table, after 15 minutes, cover it with a sheet of potali, gently smoothing it out. Then you need to walk on the surface with a soft brush and admire the result.

A glowing table is a great design solution, and quite simple to implement. The finished product is equipped with special lighting - small lamps or a strip with LEDs are built in, providing a variety of lighting options: from simple to color.

Modern kitchen sets often do not include such an essential item as a dining table, and if it is included in the basic package, it is usually made according to a standard project from cheap pressed wood. Of course, such products are not famous for their original design and durability. Such tables are usually inexpensive, but it is still better to forgo a bad purchase in favor of a homemade wooden dining table, which any beginner in home carpentry can handle.

Physical labor associated with woodworking (sawing, planing) usually gives great pleasure to novice craftsmen, and a successful result will not take long.

It is important that the activity associated with the independent design and assembly of wooden models is a very creative process. It is rare that someone tries to completely repeat the model they like from the store. Usually, the design of the model is taken as a basis, and the remaining parameters are finalized by the master on his own whim. On the veranda or in the country house, utility rooms, it is better to choose transformer structures:

• folding,
• marching;
• Suspended;
• Garden;
• Leveled.

Tables for stationary use are made in fixed sizes:

• Coffee;
• massage;
• Writing
• For laptop;
• For a bath.

The assembly of such products is very strong, the parts are fastened tightly, there are no hinged joints.

Tables for summer cottages or terraces usually have a standard rectangular or round shape. However, there are craftsmen who manage to make a rustic-style table in the form of a stump, and a bench in the form of a log, which looks very impressive. This ensemble is easily complemented by log cut stools in the same style. As you can see, making a wooden table yourself is a simple job.

With strict adherence to the instructions, the correct selection of high-quality materials and suitable tools, you are guaranteed to get a durable and beautiful table, which will perfectly fit in terms of parameters and style into your interior.

Landscaping is an ongoing process. You build something, you improve it. Moreover, furniture is constantly required and tables are most in demand in the country. And put in the garden, and near the house, and also in. How to make a table for a summer residence with your own hands we will tell in this article using the example of finished projects.

Homemade table from boards from pallets

Dismantled pallets served as the material for this table. Naturally, you can use new boards. Only one condition - they must be dry. You can buy dry ones (it costs more) or buy ordinary ones, put them somewhere in ventilated piles and soak for at least 4 months, or better, six months. In general, any furniture, including, is made from dry wood.

We assemble the table for the street - put it in the gazebo, therefore we will not glue the tabletop boards, but fasten them from below, with the help of planks. This is a very simple country table and very cheap.

Having dismantled the pallets, we get boards with an individual color and pattern. Having conjured a little, shifting them several dozen times in different manners, we achieve the desired result. It turns out quite a nice table.

We take the side parts of the pallet. We use them for the frame of the table. We grind them first with coarse sandpaper, then finely bring them to the required smoothness (grain 120 and 220).

We take the strips that remained unused, with their help we fasten the countertop. We place them in the place where the joints of the boards are located. We use two self-tapping screws for fastening each board with a joint, one for a solid one.

From the processed sidewalls and two boards (also sanded), we assemble the table frame. We fix its parts with self-tapping screws at the end (two for each joint). The frame can be glued or also “planted” on self-tapping screws. Only their length is large. Under each, we pre-drill holes with a drill, the diameter of which is slightly smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screws.

We turn the assembled countertop over and grind it. The order is the same - first with sandpaper with a large grain, then with a fine one.

Next up is installing the legs. We select four boards of the same size, check their length, adjust if necessary. Then again grinding. It's easier than sanding already screwed legs. We fasten the sanded boards to the frame. These will be the legs. For each - two self-tapping screws fixed in a diagonal (look at the photo). For greater stability, we install jumpers at the bottom. About 10 cm can be left from the floor to the jumpers. We connect everything with self-tapping screws so that the boards do not crack, we pre-drill holes.

After removing the dust, varnish again. In theory, the varnish should lie flat, but depends on the wood, so another sanding / painting cycle may be necessary. As a result, we get such a homemade country table.

If you do not like motley boards and traces of old nails, you can make their boards the same design. This table can be rectangular, maybe square. All dimensions are arbitrary - see the available space.

Country table from the remnants of the boards

This do-it-yourself table for giving is assembled from the remains of boards of different breeds and sizes. Pine boards 25 mm thick and 50 mm wide went to the frame of the tabletop, the remains of 15 * 50 mm were left on the legs. We make the frame according to the dimensions you need. This table will stand on the veranda, and it has a small width. So let's make it not wide - 60 cm, and the length is 140 cm. The height of the legs is 80 cm (everyone in the family is tall).

We immediately cut off two long boards of 140 cm each. To make the width of the table top 60 cm, subtract twice the thickness of the board used - this is 5 cm. Short bars should be 60 cm - 5 cm = 55 cm. Fold the frame, following the right angles, twist with screws. We check whether the bars are folded correctly - we measure the diagonals, they should be the same.

We cut off the boards four boards of 80 cm each, fasten them from the inside to the assembled frame. You can use 4 screws for each leg.

Approximately at the middle of the height of the legs we fasten the crossbars. This is a shelf frame. The shelf can be used for its intended purpose, and it also increases the rigidity of the structure. We fasten strictly at right angles, checking with a large square.

We put the frame on the floor, check whether it staggers or not. If everything is done correctly, it should stand rigidly. Next, take sandpaper or a grinder and grind.

Let's start assembling the countertop. From the finishing work there were boards of different types of wood, some of which were stained. We alternate boards of different colors.

We fasten the tabletop boards with finishing nails, carefully finishing them with a finisher. On the shelf can be fixed with ordinary nails or self-tapping screws. Then smooth with a grinder. The last step is painting. Very unlucky with the choice of varnish. Bought too dark, did not like the look. Will have to sand again and paint a different color.

Wooden table with glued top

This design features L-shaped legs. They are assembled from boards of the same thickness. In this case, 20 mm. To keep them well, 5 self-tapping screws are needed. Pre-drill holes with a drill with a diameter of 1-2 mm less than the diameter of the self-tapping screws. Then, with a larger diameter drill, we drill recesses for the caps. The diameter can be matched to furniture plugs of a suitable color or made from a wooden rod. Another option is to use wood putty, to which you add wood dust that remains after sanding. After drying and sanding, traces will be difficult to find.

When assembling the legs, make sure that the angle is exactly 90°. As a pattern, you can choose a bar. First, we coat the joint of the two parts of the leg with carpentry glue, then install the screws in the following sequence: first the two extreme ones, then the middle one, and only then the other two. After the glue dries, sand the legs, varnish and dry.

It's time to make the tabletop. It is assembled from boards of the same thickness. Pick up the size you need. You can use fragments of different widths. It is only important that everything looks organic, and the sidewalls of the boards are even and docked without gaps.

We coat the sides of the boards selected for the table top with glue, lay them on a flat surface (some kind of table) and tighten them with clamps. In this case, they managed one, but preferably at least three. We tighten so that there are no gaps in the resulting shield. We leave for a day. Having removed the clamps, we get an almost finished countertop. It still needs to be trimmed - to align the edges, and then sand it. You can trim with a jigsaw or a regular hand saw. Using a grinder is difficult to get a straight line, but you can try. After grinding, we get a beautiful countertop.

Using the same technique, you can make an oval or round countertop. It will only be necessary to draw the appropriate line and cut the glued boards along it.

To make the table look more attractive, we will make a frame. We take a thin bar, process it with sandpaper and fasten it around the perimeter of the countertop. Finishing nails can also be used. Only the planks are also pre-lubricated with carpentry glue, and then with nails.

After the glue dries, we again process the junction with sandpaper.

Now you can attach the table legs. We assemble a table frame from four boards (there is no photo, but you can do it as in the previous paragraph). We fasten it to the back of the countertop with glue, then install furniture confirmations through the countertop. Under the confirmations, a preliminary hole is drilled with an extension for the cap. Holes for fasteners are masked in the same way as on the legs.

We attach the legs to the fixed frame. We put them inside the frame. You can attach with ordinary screws. That's it, we made a table for giving with our own hands.

How to make a wooden garden table with benches

For this table, boards of 38 * 89 mm were used (they dissolved them themselves), but you can take standard sizes. The difference in millimeters will not really affect the results. In the photo below you can see what should happen.

To connect the parts, studs 16 cm long with washers and nuts (24 pieces) were used. All other connections are made with nails 80 mm long.

The parts are installed in place, a through hole is drilled with a drill. A stud is installed in it, washers are put on both sides and nuts are tightened. Everything is tightened with a wrench. How convenient is this option? For the winter, you can disassemble and take it to a barn or garage.

Making seats

According to the drawing, we cut the boards of the required size. Everything is necessary in double quantity - for two seats. We grind the boards, pay special attention to the ends.

We cut the short segments with which we fasten the three seat boards along the edges at an angle of 45 °. First, we assemble a structure that is attached to the seat from below. We take a board about 160 cm long, at the end we attach two short boards cut at an angle to it. Attach it so that this board is in the middle.

Then we attach the legs to the resulting structure (you can use nails). Then we add more boards cut at an angle and tighten everything with studs and bolts.

We attach the seat boards to the resulting structure. Since this is a table for the street, it is not necessary to knock them down close. Leave a gap between two adjacent at least 5 mm. We nail to the supports (which are cut down), two for each board.

We fix the finished seats with four boards 160 cm long. We fasten each leg with studs (if you walk, you can put two studs by setting them diagonally or one above the other).

Putting together a table

The table is assembled in a different way. Please note that for the countertop, the transverse boards are sawn along the edges at 52 °. We fasten them at such a distance that the legs enter. Each board has 2 nails. You can finish, with small hats, or you can hammer deep, and then mask the holes with putty.

Now we need to assemble the legs-crosses. We take two boards, cross them so that the distance between their ends is 64.5 cm. We circle the intersection with a pencil. At this point, it will be necessary to remove the wood by half the thickness of the board.

We make the same notch on the second board. If you add them together, they are in the same plane. We connect with four nails.

Similarly, we make the second leg for the table. While the table is not collected.

Installing the table

Now you need to fix the legs to the structure on which the benches are installed. We put them at an equal distance from the benches, fasten them with hairpins.

Now install the table top. We also fasten it with studs. The last step is painting. Here everyone does as he pleases.

Variations on a theme

According to this drawing, you can make benches and a table separately for giving, garden. The design is reliable and easy to implement.

Do-it-yourself table for giving: drawings

Landscaping is not a one day affair. In addition to the construction of the main buildings and the arrangement of the garden, you always want to allocate a place to relax, where you can enjoy unity with nature. And the main element of such a cozy corner in the open air will certainly be garden furniture. If there is not so much free space on the site, you can use the near-trunk areas of trees by installing a round bench with a table under them. Let's take a closer look at how to build a round bench and garden table around a tree.

Benches around a tree have been topping the list of popularity among landscape designers and connoisseurs of comfort and beauty for many years. Made of metal or wood, backless or backless, simple designs or finely ornamented pieces, they never go out of style.

The reason for such popularity, most likely, is that they act as a frame for the trunks. Large sprawling trees have an attractive effect on a person, because under its powerful branches anyone feels protected.

A bench under a tree is a kind of symbol of the unity of a person with the nature around him: while retaining its functional and decorative qualities, it becomes part of an inhabited garden

The key element of this pair is, of course, wood. Therefore, the bench framing it should not constrain, much less damage the trunk. A round bench is best placed under a chestnut, birch, willow or walnut tree.

Fruit trees are far from the best option. The falling fruits of the trees will spoil the appearance of the furniture, leaving marks on the light surface of the wood.

It’s great if a picturesque panorama of a beautiful flower garden, pond or arch with climbing plants opens from the bench

On hot summer days, it is pleasant to relax on such a bench, hiding under the shade of foliage. In the autumn months, when the leaves have already fallen, you will enjoy the warmth of the last rays of the sun.

The choice of materials for construction

Garden furniture is designed not only to provide comfortable conditions for relaxing in the center of green spaces in the fresh air, but also to act as a bright accent of the original design of a shady corner.

The material for its manufacture can be: wood, stone, metal. But still, it is wooden furniture that looks most harmoniously on the garden plot.

Having a unique texture, benches made of wood look equally good both among the greenery of the garden and against the background of stone and brick buildings of the site.

When choosing a material for creating a wooden bench or table, give preference to wood species with a dense structure. They are able to better withstand the negative effects of precipitation, while maintaining a presentable appearance for several seasons.

Larch is excellent for making garden furniture: the amount of oils and adhesives makes it the least vulnerable to high humidity and temperature fluctuations

Among inexpensive species for the manufacture of outdoor tables and chairs, pine, acacia, cherry or spruce are also well suited. Oak and walnut have beautiful color and texture. But even with high-quality processing, they are less resistant to climate change, and under the influence of direct sunlight they can even gradually dry out.

Regardless of the choice of wood species, in order for garden furniture to last more than one season, all wooden parts and elements must be treated with protective impregnations both from the front and from the back.

Master class # 1 - making a round bench

The easiest way to make a circular bench is to create a hexagonal structure with a back adjacent to a tree trunk. The legs of the bench should not damage the aerial parts of the roots of the plant. Determining the distance between the seat of the bench and the trunk of a tree, it is necessary to make a margin of 10-15 cm for its growth in thickness.

For the manufacture of a round bench, which will act as a frame for a tree with a trunk diameter within 60 cm, you will need:

• 6 blanks each 40/60/80/100 mm long, 80-100 mm wide;
• 12 blanks 50-60 cm long for legs;
• 6 blanks 60-80 cm long for crossbars;
• 6 strips for the manufacture of the back;
• 6 strips to create an apron;
• self-tapping screws or screws.

Use only well-dried wood for work. This will reduce the likelihood of cracks on the surface during the operation of the bench.

From the tools you need to prepare:

• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• electric saw or hand saw;
• Bulgarian with a nozzle for grinding;
• garden shovel;
• a hammer.

The circular bench is a design consisting of six identical sections. The size of the sections depends on the diameter of the tree. It is measured at the height of the seat, adding 15-20 cm to the result for a margin to ensure further growth of the tree. To determine the length of the short sides of the inner slabs of the bench, the result of the measurements is divided by 1.75.

In order for the assembled circular bench to have the correct shape and perfectly even edges, the cut angle of each section must be 30 °

To create symmetrical even edges and obtain even bevels between adjacent seat slats, when cutting, the parts should be interconnected with meter boards.

Seat blanks are laid out in four rows on a flat plane. So that when assembled, the seat boards do not adjoin closely to each other, at the stage of assembling the structure, gaskets 1 cm thick are installed between them.

On the extreme board, which will act as the short side of the inner plate of the bench, cut points are marked at an angle of 30 °

Having outlined the place of the cut along the last board, they transfer the line to the boards of neighboring rows, maintaining the same angle of inclination. In each next row, the plates will be longer than in the previous one. Using the same technology, 5 more templates of the same size are cut out.

It is easy to check the correct dimensions of the seat by laying out all the templates and joining their edges so that an isosceles hexagon is obtained.

After making sure that the calculations are correct and that the seat elements are assembled correctly, they begin to manufacture the legs of the bench. The design of the circular bench provides for the installation of internal and external legs. Their length depends on the desired seat height. On average, it is 60-70 cm.

To stiffen the structure, connect the legs with crossbars, the length of which will be equal to the width of the bench seat

Cut out 12 identical legs to the height of the seat. If the ground around the tree has an uneven surface, make the blanks for the legs a little longer than the intended size. In the future, during the installation process, you can always trim the height by adding or, conversely, removing the layer of soil under the legs of the bench.

To connect the legs with crossbars parallel to each other, marks are made on the support posts and crossbars, which will serve as a guide when drilling through holes. To create a rigid structure, holes are drilled in a checkerboard pattern, placing them diagonally and capturing the legs with crossbars.

Bolts are inserted into the through holes and, having threaded a washer with a nut on them, tighten them tightly with an adjustable wrench. The same actions are performed when tightening the remaining five knots.

The easiest way to connect the legs to the seat of the bench is by placing them in an upright position and fixing them with clamps, and then placing the seat boards on them

The seat strips are laid out on the support posts in such a way that the joints between the boards are located exactly in the center above the legs. The strips themselves need to be moved slightly towards the front legs so that they go beyond the edges.

After making sure that the assembly is correct, two adjacent sections are connected. First, the external support posts are screwed, and then the internal legs are “planted” on the screws. The result should be two assembled sections, each of which includes three interconnected strips.

The assembled halves of the circular bench are installed on opposite sides of the tree, joining the edges of the adjacent strips

“Having gained” the joints, re-adjust the location of the outer three supports, and only after that tighten the screws. Having leveled the horizontal surface of the bench with the help of a level, proceed to the installation of the backrest.

The backs of all six seats are installed along the rear edge, placing them flush and fixing them with a bolted connection

For ease of use, the end bevels are cut at an angle of 30 °. To fix the bench elements, the guide screws are screwed through the holes on the inside of the seat and grabbing the backrest. Using the same technology, all adjacent backs are connected.

At the final stages, an apron is mounted from separate strips. To determine the length of the strips, measure the distance between the outer legs of the bench. Having cut six blanks for an apron, the short edges of each are beveled at an angle of 30 °.

To install the apron, alternately apply the boards to the outer sides of the seat, and, fixing it with a clip, screw it to the legs of the bench with screws.

The finished bench can only be sanded, removing all roughness, and covered with water-repellent oil impregnation. Wax-based formulations also give a good result, creating a thin film on the surface that prevents the penetration of moisture from the environment.

The manufacturing process of a four-sided bench is not much different from the production technology of a hexagonal bench.

By setting up a circular bench in a cool corner of the garden, you can enjoy at any time, leaning on the rough bark of the trunk and listening to the sounds of nature.

Workshop # 2 - building a garden table around a tree

A logical addition to a circular garden bench would be a table around a tree, which can also be placed under a neighboring plant.

Under the arrangement of the table, it is better to choose a tree with a spreading crown, so that the shadow from it covers not only the countertop, but people sitting at the table

The look and shape of the table can be anything from traditional square designs to irregularly shaped countertops. We propose to build a structure, the tabletop of which is made in the form of a head of an opened flower.

The project is designed to decorate a tree trunk, the diameter of which does not exceed 50 cm. If the tree you have chosen for installing the table is still growing, be sure to make an additional margin for the central hole of the table top.

To make a table around a tree you will need:

• cut plywood 10-15 mm thick, 1.5x1.5 m in size;
• board 25 mm thick and 20x1000 mm in size;
• 2 cuts of a metal strip 45 mm wide and 55 mm thick;
• wooden block 40x40 mm;
• self-tapping screws for wood and metal;
• 2 coupler bolts 50x10 mm;
• 2 nuts and 4 washers.
• paint for metal and impregnation for wood.

When determining the dimensions of the metal strip, be guided by the thickness of the wood, but at the same time make an additional margin of 90 mm for fastening parts.

Boards for the tabletop are processed in the form of a petal, rounding the outer edges and making the inner parts narrower for the middle of the flower.

A circle is cut out of a sheet of plywood with a diameter of 10-12 cm less than the size of the countertop. A hole is cut in the center of the circle, the size corresponding to the thickness of the trunk. For mounting, the circle is cut in half, the workpieces are varnished.

The frame of the structure is constructed from bars 40 cm and 60 cm long. For blanks 60 cm in size, the ends are cut off at an angle of 45 ° so that one side retains the same length. Wooden blanks are cleaned with sandpaper and coated with impregnation.

The ends of two cuts of a metal strip with a cross section of 45 mm are bent at a right angle and covered with 2-3 layers of paint. To assemble the structure, bars are screwed to metal blanks in such a way that their ends do not protrude beyond the edge of the strips. The result should be a design that looks like a barrel, but in a mirror version.

The assembled frame is put on a tree trunk, placing gaskets under the metal elements - pieces of linoleum. Bolts and nuts are tightly tightened. Semicircles of plywood are screwed to the vertical elements of the frame using self-tapping screws. Petals are laid out on a plywood circle, forming a tabletop in the form of a flower.

Each petal of the “flower” is fixed with a self-tapping screw, deepening the hats as much as possible so that they do not protrude above the surface

The surface of the petals is treated with sandpaper. If desired, the gaps between the boards are covered with epoxy. The side edges and the surface of the countertop are treated with a protective compound that will minimize the effects of moisture and insects. To give the countertop the desired shade, use impregnation with pigment or ordinary stain.

Whichever version of the circular bench or table you choose, the main thing is that it is in harmony with the landscape surrounding it. In any case, handmade garden furniture will delight you every time with its originality and uniqueness.

The table is the second object after the stool, which a novice furniture maker should take up. The design of a simple table is no more complicated than that of a stool; an unpretentious comfortable table for a summer cottage or for a picnic can be built in half a day using a hacksaw, a hammer and a drill. But a table made using the same technology and slightly ennobled can also look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensively purchased one. However, the table also gives greater freedom of creative self-expression, it can be a significant and even key element of interior design, it is not for nothing that handicraft furniture makers are called carpenters, and not sofa makers, cabinetrs or bedside tables. Having mastered the carpentry craft, it will be possible to take up exclusive tables over time, the rest of the poses. there.

This article discusses how to make tables out of wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic qualities. In utilitarian products, she forgives rather gross mistakes for beginners, but fine woodwork requires high skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, then mastering glass, metal and plastic will be much easier.

Tool and workshop

To make a table with your own hands, you need a production room separate from the living rooms: woodwork, as you know, is dusty. In addition, such good means of toning and protecting wood as wood stains emit harmful fumes during staining; nitro-varnishes, too, although to a lesser extent. Therefore, home carpentry should be well ventilated, and preferably with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and they will not benefit the car. Better to work in the barn; if it doesn’t exist yet, then you can build it, but on the farm it will come in handy for a lot of things.

The usual carpentry tool, on the left in the figure, is enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better if modern achievements are brought to the rescue, right there:

• Swivel miter box, pos. 1, allows you to make saw cuts exactly in size and in angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with a complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper, and the work will be more accurate. The miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
• Also universal is a manual electric jigsaw with an inclined shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
• Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, it makes it possible for a beginner to get the surface of a wooden plate in 5-15 minutes, on which an experienced carpenter with a skin in his hand will take at least an hour, and tape, pos. 5, also quickly and efficiently process the ends; there are also belt grinders for grooves and recesses with a protruding working body. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other work, and quite expensive, so it’s better to rent them first. True, craftsmen still successfully brush with grinders; artificially aging, a tree, but this is a delicate work.
• It is also preferable at first to rent a manual wood router, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. They process shaped edges, choose holes and grooves.

A universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) of various modifications is very useful on the farm. It is compact, fits on a table, powered by 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines a circular saw, planer, wood lathe and a set of cutters. True, you can’t just grind the table legs on it, the tailstock caliper overhang is too small. But the caliper itself is just a steel round pipe, it is not difficult to lengthen it. The stop of the cutter remains regular, it is mobile, the leg and with a long caliper are sharpened in one setting.

How to choose a tree?

A wooden table can be made from any wood of medium resistance to decay, except for the softest species: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailanthus. Of the domestic ones, these include:

The rocks are listed in order of availability. For example, horse chestnut, sycamore and juniper are not harvested at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in the southern regions, while juniper is endangered and protected. Industrial blanks of elm are almost completely used for shoe lasts, weaving shuttles, etc., and mountain ash - for weapons stocks; There is no full-fledged plastic replacement for them yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, does not renew well, so its harvesting is strictly regulated, and the wood is expensive.

Note: walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent viscosity, the most openwork walnut carving does not prick. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.

At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. Pine or oak will go to the countertop; birch - on the legs of a pine table; in the countertop, it is strongly warped from the spilled. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.

On a pine countertop made of boards, you can and even need to take low-grade cheap boards - knotty, serpentine. But, of course, without falling knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, rot marks on black (ebony) wood may be whitish or yellowish.

Why is the countertop substandard? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished on a circular and jointer? And after skillful processing of them, plates of remarkable beauty are obtained, on the left in fig. Manufacturers do not like such a tree: the production cycle is delayed, waste increases. But for yourself with your own hands, this is not so scary compared to the result.

wooden humpback

Commercial pine has a clearly defined zoning of wood in the form of annual growth rings; other conifers and many hardwoods also have it. On the saw cut of the board, the rings form the so-called. humpback in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in fig. in the center, then when rallying the shield for the tabletop (see below), the boards are oriented with humps alternately up and down, from below in fig. If the ridges are directed towards the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with ridges in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the countertop does not split or warp.

Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue

A free means of protecting wood from decay is used motor oil, but for what they eat from, this is not the best option. Optimal will be 2-fold, with a break of 3-5 days, impregnation with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE), it will give protection to the table for the entire time of its life. Even birch plywood impregnated with WPE is suitable for furniture front panels: it is also varnished on top and does not delaminate.

Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually falling into disuse: they are superior to water-based acrylic varnishes in all respects; in addition, they are safe to use. Also, glues, bone carpentry and BF-2 on alcohol are inferior to PVA; however, to obtain a high-quality seam, the latter requires applying glue to both surfaces, keeping them tack-free before joining, and holding them under pressure for 1-3 days, but this is acceptable for home production.

Wood for furniture can be pre-tinted and protected with a stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. To tint the assembled units, you can use paints based on the same lacquer and artistic (not paint!) dyes: oil in tubes for NC lacquers and acrylic water-based for the same lacquer.

First, they prepare a “painting”: they take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it with continuous thorough stirring with a paintbrush. The coloring is stored in a tightly closed vial and added to the varnish to the desired tone; a test for it is done on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by the complete drying of the varnish. Colored varnishes on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the rules for mixing oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.

First steps

The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If 1-2 brick pallets remain from the construction site, then the pallet table will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.

From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, you get a garden table like a coffee table, on the left in fig. If there is a pair available, in just half an hour you can make a wall-mounted desktop-rack, in the center and on the right. Chains for it can also be woven yourself from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To fully raise the tabletop, a small tool is placed on a shelf of a wall pallet.

With a little more work, a collapsible cutting table for a summer residence is made from one pallet, which allows you to transfer the summer-autumn harvesting campaign to the street without littering with husks and without trampling on the stumps. For the winter this table is collected in a compact package. The construction is clear from Fig; a bucket is placed under the hatch in the tabletop.

The next in order of complexity is the well-known country table-goats, colloquially a goat. Its construction of 40 mm boards is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right - a country folding table on the same principle. It has swivel joints (M8-M12 bolts, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place marked in green, a stop boss is placed on the nails between the crossbars of the tabletop. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it will also go to a picnic. If this is not expected, or the trunk is larger, the countertop can be made longer.

Finally, it also does not require special tools and skills for a gazebo table, see fig. below. Material - the same magpie board and some inexpensive fasteners.

One step closer to art...

To advance in table building, now you need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. A table, in general, consists of a tabletop, its support frame, possibly with niches and / or mechanisms, or simply a plate - underframe - legs, and knots holding everything together. Let's go through them starting with the connections along with the legs, because. their fastening is the weakest point of the table.

Connections and legs

At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled on a quick-drying glue that does not require exposure: carpentry, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off hats are used to connect thin boards, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries out, but the metal does not, and over time the connection becomes loose.

For dowels, a thin-layered tree is taken stronger than both connected parts, i.e. the hardest rocks. A pine table with birch legs can be joined on oak or beech dowels. On sale there are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels; before use, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, for example. inserts in sliding tables.

Legs for industrial tables are attached with detachable drawers, see fig. on right. Pos., marked in yellow - the simplest, cheapest and worst. With its shortcomings in the complete absence of advantages, buyers of Shiroptrebov's Soviet furniture are well aware, even if it remains there. Reliable, well-kept, except for the legs, and underframe boards, drawers with mortise jibs, “green” pos. They also require the least cost, but are quite laborious, so they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. Drawer side with shaped steel jib, top right in the figure, even stronger; in this way it is possible to fasten legs with a round head and in general any, however, purchased shaped parts made of high-quality steel are required.

Note: legs are attached to the round table, as shown below in fig.

Detachable legs are needed not only for ease of storage and transportation. In a small apartment with a narrow corridor, a table with legs is often simply impossible to push to the living room, no matter how you turn it. Modern apartments are more spacious, and in 1-story private houses the table can be served / given out the window, so in such cases, the strength and durability of the table with tightly fixed legs comes to the fore.

For tables on a rectangular base, the heads of the legs for blind fastening must also be rectangular, pos. 1 in fig. By the way, the tsargs are also one-piece: then the legs with dowels that pass through a mortise wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with dogwood or boxwood wedges inserted across the fibers of the jib wood. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that these 200-year-old tables can be fought by grabbing the leg.

Sufficiently high-quality tables on turned legs are assembled simply on dowels, pos. 2. For simpler tables, the legs are made of timber and fastened with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and lighter are the legs of a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. So that they do not cling to the floor, you need to stuff the thrust bearings on them below or put the table on wheels.

tabletop

The easiest, but not the cheapest way, is to order a countertop made of laminated chipboard (chipboard, laminate). Chipboard for countertops is available in the form of the so-called. postforming - slabs 3.6x1.2 m 20-60 mm thick with a decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the bottom face with a drip collector, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is quite environmentally friendly, no matter what gossip does not want to forget the co-furniture, which stank of phenol for months.

Postforming is well bought by small furniture enterprises. They always have his scraps; of them, they will gladly and for a very affordable price cut the tabletop to size, if the company has a jig saw. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. The finished slab will be closed, i.e. cover the PVC end with a piping (edge). If you will be edging yourself (sometimes they ask for an awkward surcharge for edging), then keep in mind:

• The upper and lower flanges of the edging have a different profile, see on the left in fig. Confuse - there will always be a piping of dirt on the table.
• Kant must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the plate. It is possible to put on a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm plate, but it will soon slide off.
• The groove for the crest of the edge must be selected with a manual disk cutter; saw, it seems that no one has yet succeeded as it should.
• Before installing the edge, a thin layer of silicone sealant is applied to the end surface and the "sausage" is squeezed into the groove; in this case, the silicone will also be a lubricant, without which the ridge of the edge can simply be crushed.
• The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows of the mallet, gradually moving along the contour. The tabletop must lie face up on the support; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately washed with a clean rag slightly moistened with table vinegar.

Plank tabletops are rallied in plank clips with wedges and spacers - wimahs. Wimes are quite possible to make yourself; You need 3-4 for a table top. Wym boards (cheeks) are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. On fig. for example - the process of manufacturing a round tabletop; rectangular rally in the same way, only cropping to size is easier. The shield is rallied onto the countertop with glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are grooved, dowels are not needed. When rallying to PVA, the next plot is kept until the applied glue is tacky before installation in the wyma.

Often, countertops are assembled without a wym on a plaza - a flat surface covered with plastic wrap. It will not work to assemble a good plank shield on the plaza: either it will come out slitted, or the boards will stand on end when assembled. But inlaid countertops from fragments are simply wonderful in skillful hands. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. - a tabletop made of sawing waste, tinted with wood stain. And on pos. 4-5, the base of the tabletop was the plaz itself made of thick plywood. The tile and its break are glued with tile adhesive, then the depressions are filled with grout for drinking, the surface is lacquered and the contour is edged with a wooden lath.

Note: these examples do not illustrate all the possibilities of making do-it-yourself inlaid art tabletops.

Underframe

The underframe of the table with non-removable legs is a simple wooden frame, on the left in fig. Niches and details of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the tabletop is removable/sliding, or heavy operational loads are expected (for example, a work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffeners in the center. If the legs are fastened with drawers, then the underframe is made integral with the table top, so that a single power circuit is obtained, on the right in fig.

no frame

Tables without underframes are also known, in which the tabletop with legs work in a single carrier system. Very durable, eg. plywood table on the left in pic; its connections are shkantovye. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. In mass production, the waste is not very large, but a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm or more will go one piece for large sidewalls, and 1 more for smaller ones. The table on the right is already quite possible to make with your own hands: the supporting frame is prefabricated; connections - in a spike with a tightening bolt and half a tree. However, the countertop in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right angles.

... and get into the kitchen

Exactly. The table for the kitchen is the next in order of complexity after the simplest country ones. It must already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average completeness; the width of the seat for 1 eater / rider is 60-80 cm, depending on its corpulence, the width of the tabletop is at least 70 cm. The countertop should be easy to clean, durable, resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.

All these requirements will be satisfied by a table made of chipboard on metal legs; they are also sold separately in sets of 4 pieces, with fasteners, on the left in fig. Factory legs for tables, as a rule, are supplied with height-adjustable heels. The table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the nests of the legs with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% cheaper than the whole purchased one, and in appearance it will not yield, on the right in Fig.

If you are not too lazy to put your hands on it, steel legs can be made with your own hands. This is not only a cheaper, but also a more durable option: the sockets of branded legs are cast from a rather fragile silumin, the fasteners weaken over time, they need to be tightened. You yourself can cut out nests from good steel, and weld your own legs into them.

The kitchen is more spacious, perhaps there is room for a larger table. In such a case - on the trail. rice. drawings of a kitchen table in a rustic style. "Rustic" this table is not only in appearance: it does not have a single nail and metal fasteners in general. Just wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing such, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the tabletop, you will have to rally the shields on the sidewalls, but in this case, the extra work is worth it.

Kruglyashi

A table with a round top is appropriate in any room, if it fits there. But a tabletop made of boards in this case is not the best option: due to the presence of sharp corners, it is prone to splitting without a frame, which is very complex and time-consuming. Type-setting countertops from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free from this drawback; unlike laminate rounds, they are decorative, stylish, unique, and practically free.

There are even more sharp corners in a small-type table top, but here the “broom law” works. Not the American senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of complete oblivion of it at home, but the broom with which they sweep the rubbish. As you know, it is impossible to break him (a broom, not a senator) tied up, and a child will break twig after twig. So here, due to the ease of distributing loads between small fragments, the countertop made of them works like a solid plate, and you can cut it off after assembly even with the letter zyu.

Note: the idea of ​​the broom senator, sorry, Venik, was suggested by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world-famous as Mark Twain: “I affirm, and undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more fantasies than a bull. But not the bull that lows in the pasture, but the one that is the support of the bridge.

How to make a semi-folding round table is shown in fig; on the right there are the dimensions of the countertop and the assembly order. And in fig. on the right above - a small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - a business card. Its feature is the minimum number of connections; glue assembly. Any kruglyash will go to the countertop, from sawing off a stump to a cardboard one, made according to the method of manufacturing cardboard shelves, but the underframe must be durable, made of wood (dvuhsotka board) or chipboard.

Moving on to the living room

The table in the main room of the house should be in line with the whole house. At the same time, with the modern desire for laconic design (which also saves living space costs), the table should not be conspicuous for the time being, and take up less space. Therefore, one of the most sought-after pieces of furniture of our days has become a transforming table.

The simplest transformable table, which, with all its transformations, remains a table, and does not turn into a closet or bed - a bedside table; it is quite possible to make it with your own hands "from scratch". There are 2 most common options here. On the left in fig. - the table is deployable, it has a record ratio of occupied areas in expanded and collapsed form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the tabletop wings lowered, it will serve as a bar. By raising the wings one by one, you can get a kitchen or everyday dining table, and fully extended (in the center), it will provide a place for a rather crowded banquet.

A bachelor living in a small apartment is more suitable for a folding bedside table, on the right in fig. These are, in essence, 2 small round folding tables, described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can have lunch alone from it folded, because, unlike the previous version, there is where to put your legs. And having unrolled, spend a romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or sincere gatherings with friends.

All of the above qualities combine coffee-dining tables-transformers with a mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables that are always tables, they basically come down to 2 types: an elevator (pantograph) and a book. How one and the other work, see the video:

Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although much depends on the quality of execution. It is more popular among book lovers, because the mechanism-book can still be made independently, and the elevator outside the production environment is unlikely.

How the table-book is laid out is shown in stages in fig. on right. For its independent production, you need to know that the key unit is the damping-balancing elastic link. In fairly expensive branded designs, very soft gas dampers (gas lifts) are used, but it is better for an amateur to stop at a spring damper, and not because a gas lift is much more expensive.

The fact is that the gas lift must be coordinated within fairly narrow limits with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the table top, underframe and the own weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened / loosened; replace as a last resort. In general, an unsuccessful home-made transforming table with gas lifts rarely manages to be “brought to mind”, and spring almost always. If you still decide to suffer with a homemade acrobat table, in fig. - drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.

Without the availability of or access to drilling, turning and milling machines for metal, most parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $50-$60. A factory-made transforming coffee table rarely costs less than $200, so even in this situation, the savings are significant.

The transformer table is made under the mechanism. One of the most popular are the Mazetti transformation mechanisms, due to their good quality at a moderate price for this class of products. In addition, Mazetti movements are available in a supporting frame (inset in the center in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. The rest of the pos. in fig. show the device and the dimensions of the table for this mechanism.

For a strong feast

Whatever you say, but in a normal family with children, friends and relatives, crowded gatherings at the table cannot do without, and here the transforming table will not always help out. However, we will leave more or less full banquet tables for the living room, as they say, for later: these are products of a higher order of complexity; primarily because of the extension mechanism.

By the way, the good old “sliders” with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the halves of the table top (item 1 in the figure) are quite convenient and reliable if properly executed, in addition to this, they can be made by yourself, but such a process requires a special detailed description. Modern sliding mechanisms with telescopic full extension guides, pos. 2, allow you to use not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the capacity of the table by 6-10 people, respectively, but they are quite expensive, and their installation requires a description of no less voluminous.

There are banquet tables with clamshell inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when sliding / sliding the halves of the table top, the insert lifts, unfolds and puts in place or puts back in the underframe a very complex mechanism, but its manual versions are available for home production.

As for banquet tables with retractable individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in a computer desk, they cannot be called popular by any means: leaning forward (and how to avoid this if the house is without servants?), We get the board back into the underframe, and our portion of treats - for festive clothes.

But let's not talk about sad things. Recall that the table is not always pushed apart, and you can use the side table, but the whole table is in any case more reliable. Therefore, in the series of drawings below - a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and how it looks "live" - ​​see the left in fig. at the beginning.

In addition

A table, and indeed any furniture, often wants to be painted not just with stripes or artistically painted. To protect the drawing from external influences and to ensure the possibility of updating the varnish if necessary, the paints should not be applied, but rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by layer-by-layer rubbing of paints is called glazing. So in conclusion, we offer a master class on wood glazing.

Video: wood glazing master class

Those who have in the country trees grow, they can organize a recreation area around the most beautiful of them. For example, place under the Christmas tree table-chamomile. In this article, we will show you how to do this do-it-yourself table from improvised means that are in the country. Design table does not injure the tree, details of a simple form, from ordinary materials.

What do you need:

Plywood sheet 1.5 × 1.5 m, 10-15 mm thick.
Board (quantity, length, width depend on the desired size of the table). In this version, larch board 25x200x1000 mm.
Metal strip - 2 pcs. (thickness 55 mm, width 45 mm, length depends on the thickness of the wood, plus 90 mm for fastening).
Bar 40×40 mm.
Bolt coupler - 2 pcs. (thickness 10 mm, length 50 mm), nut - 2 pcs., washer - 4 pcs.
Self-tapping screws for wood and metal.
Lacquer or paint, impregnation for wooden parts. Metal paint.

What to do:

Process the boards in the form of a petal - make one end narrow (the middle of the flower), and round the other by cutting off the corners.
Sand the surface of the petals
paper and varnish. You can paint the petals, make them colored or plain.
From a sheet of plywood, cut a circle with a diameter smaller than the table by 10-15 cm. In the center of the circle, cut a hole equal to the diameter of the tree trunk. Cut the circle in half. Varnish or paint.
Prepare bars 40 cm long - for the frame (the number depends on the thickness of the tree) and 60 cm long - for fixing the table surface. For bars 60 cm long, cut the ends at an angle of 45 °. Cut so that one side remains 60 cm long. Varnish or paint.
Bend the ends (45 mm each) of the metal strips at a right angle. In the middle of the bent ends, drill holes according to the diameter of the tie bolts. Paint.

How to assemble:

1. Screw bars 40 cm long to the metal strips with metal screws. The ends of the bars should not protrude beyond the edge of the metal strip. The barrel will turn out the other way around.
2. Put the frame on the tree trunk, gradually tighten the bolts and nuts. Put something dense (linoleum) under the metal strips.
3. Tighten bolts and nuts to the end. Screw semicircles of plywood with self-tapping screws to the vertical bars of the frame.
4. With persistent bars with cuts, strengthen the circle from below with self-tapping screws.
5. Lay the petals on a plywood circle and fix each with self-tapping screws from the bottom up. Self-tapping screws should not come to the surface.

Be sure to use a level when assembling.

Another point: the tree grows in width - keep this in mind when measuring the diameter of the trunk, insert small wedges between the trunk and the frame.

Here are a few more options...