The puppy is scared. Proper socialization is the best prevention! What to do if the problem is not solved

And there are people who are afraid of their shadow, to say nothing of dogs, and there are such people among them. Why are they so fearful? There may be many reasons. One of them - genetic predisposition. If you came to the breeder to take a puppy and you see that his mother is timid, she hid, and the puppy that you liked does not go to your hands, choose another dog. And even at all, take a puppy from another litter. Unfortunately, if such a fear exists at 2-4 months. it will remain in the future.

There are other cases when you are 2 months old. you take a completely cheerful puppy, and a month later you take him out into the street and find that he is afraid of passers-by, passing cyclists and cars. Here you are already to blame, because Puppies need to be socialized by 3 months of age. take it outside and show everything. His nervous system at this age it will be easier to adapt, especially in the city.

It happens that the fearfulness of a pet is associated with stress, for example, a large stray dog rushed at him on the street and scared him a lot. Fear needs to be treated. The owner must be calm. You can’t immediately grab the pet in your arms and calm it down violently, it will become even more demonstratively afraid. Learn a few things with your pet basic commands, for example, "Come to me!" or "Sit!" If you need to quickly switch attention from objects causing fear, to something else, you command and make sure that the dog obeys.

At cowardly dogs There is such, that fear can cause aggression. For example, a child once dragged your pet by the tail and now he is terribly afraid of small children. You lead him on a leash, and a baby and a puppy or an adult male or female rush past with a screech, defending themselves, grabbing the child by the leg. The mother is in shock, screaming at you, and you don’t know what to do, because the worst thing is the bite has already happened.

To avoid such dramatic situations, you need to start socialization before 3 months. and not take into the house even the best cowardly puppy. It is difficult to live with him in society, because everywhere you need to be among people, for example, go to the market, take a walk in a park that is busy on Sunday, visit a veterinarian, etc.

What to do if the problem is not solved?

Even though you have a coward, try not to compare your pet with more prosperous ones. Treat him kindly, lovingly. Let him feel that he is still your favorite.

Socialize him gradually. Walk in the park, where occasionally people pass by, owners with pets. Train him fun games: bring a stick, rubber ball, ring and other items. Let him feel bold and dexterous.

There are very purposeful owners who hire an instructor and work with the dog on their own, learning commands. If time passes, and he is still a coward, nothing can be done, such a character. You are his only friend, so play together so that he lives next to you happy dog. You don't need to constantly train him. It won't help.

Try in Everyday life avoid irritants that cause stress in the pet. For example, he is afraid of the noise of a working vacuum cleaner, when you do the cleaning, close it in the back room. Not all dogs are so shy that it cannot be corrected by training with a dog handler, self-training and gradual socialization. Yes, sometimes it takes a year or more, but positive results there is.

You are a person and it is in your power to be happy in a life together with a pet, forgiving him shortcomings.

A dog is always a responsibility.

Conceived, the owners and rest where you can take your pet with you. For example, at the camp site of their city in a forest plantation by the lake, and some go out for the weekend as a savage to fish, sunbathe on the beach. Don't forget a big umbrella. It will create a shadow for the pet and save him from heat stroke.

We socialize a pet that is afraid of people

How to deal with a fearful dog:

Remember that during fear you can’t intensely pity your pet, as well as scold. He becomes disoriented and next time will continue to be afraid, in the hope that he will be pitied.
You are a strong master-leader and keep calm. Pretend that you are not afraid of anything, let the dog take an example from you.
Socialize your dog gradually. First, meet new people.

New acquaintances can come to visit you at home or invite old friends for walks. At the same time, do not focus on your pet. Let him not start to coward defiantly and think that this is how it should be, since guests are in the house or an old acquaintance is with you for a walk.

When the dog gets used to some person, you can ask him to talk affectionately with him, and then bring your hand to the muzzle (hold your palm up), let him sniff and carefully try to stroke. Gradually begin to communicate with other people, then walk with a dog on a leash in the company of her old friends. If you adopted a dog from a shelter, which is noble, and he is very shy, then even a year may not be enough for him to get used to and begin to trust people.

A good way to socialize when you take a puppy to a house where there is an older dog. On the street, stroke you, and then a friend of the older dog. The younger will observe that he likes it and sooner or later he will allow himself to be stroked. The main thing is that the dog should be among people every day. Isolation will lead to more more fear in front of a person.

Every day 2-4 times and even more, take your pet for walks among people. Start walking in sparsely populated areas and gradually move to busier ones. Like the fruit of your long psychological work behavior correction, you will soon be able to walk with him even around the market, examining and choosing a product.

When the pet gets used to the city or the village, take him even to exhibitions, even if only as a guest. There he will see many relatives.

In dogs different reaction, some will hide from fear, while others will attack unfamiliar passers-by. Then wear a muzzle for a walk and teach commands that will allow you to stop unwanted actions pet. Go to classes with a cynologist.

Teaching your dog the “give” command
How to choose and train a dog to protect a private property
Teaching a dog to stand
The dog is your sports partner
Weaning a dog to bark at home
We teach the dog the command "Fu!"

The dog is a weapon. With the owner or on their own. How to defend yourself in the event of a dog attack pain points, protection methods. program of behavior when meeting with aggressive dog. How to kill a dog. Various types of legal weapons. From the series of articles "School of Survival". This can be useful not only in a fight with a dog ...

Stray dogs and us

Unfortunately, in recent times The "pendulum of relations" between man and animals, which are called "dogs" in our country, is in the position of "dogs". Those. while the prevailing opinion is that "you can't touch a dog." None and under no circumstances. Let it be a hotbed of infection, prone to rabies, multiply uncontrollably and extremely dangerous, etc. - to exterminate them and generally take any measures against them - "inhumane", "inhumane" and all that.

And this despite the fact that meat processing plants (and therefore slaughterhouses) are working at full capacity and new ones are being built (no one spares cows and pigs, moreover, their meat is fed to dogs), despite the fact that the number of stray dogs, potential and real sources of infection is increasing at an alarming pace, despite the fact that the number of bitten people is in the thousands, including those bitten to death, despite the fact that huge money is spent on the "cleansing fight" (and actually stolen).

Yes ... M. Bulgakov really scared us with his Sharikov, who worked in the "cleaning department", directly developed an innate reflex of hatred for those who catch stray animals and seek to protect us from infections and attacks by rabid and semi-mad dogs. If the epidemiologist is almost a hero, then the person who cleans the city from entire colonies of these microbes and their carriers (and rabies, by the way, is incurable and it is always 100% fatal outcome) is a "scoundrel", "flayer", etc. Obviously, something extraordinary must happen, for example, stray dogs will bite Luzhkov or his many children, or some other high-ranking official. Then the brains of the "protectors of stray animals" will quickly be put in their place by an appropriate directive, the pendulum will swing in the other direction, and the citizens will get a few years of respite from this half-mad stray pack.

The newest "invention" of a humane method of struggle - through sterilization, does not give any results (except for the possibility of laundering money - go check if this male is sterilized or not). The dog also wants to eat, is just as aggressive, can also become infected with rabies, and also attack a person. Isn't it easier to just give her an injection and she will soon fall asleep forever and without pain, seeing her happy dog dreams? It will be cheaper as well. The argument that stray dogs regulate the rat population by eating a certain number of them is simply ridiculous. Per Last year, according to SES, the number of rats has increased three (!) times. Thank you, crazy compassionate old women, for our happy doggy lot. They stopped catching us, but we won't catch rats either. You have to chase after them. And in the garbage dumps, the contents of which are taken out not according to circumstances, as the containers are filled, but according to His Majesty's Schedule, given to us by God and signed by Himself (and therefore unchanged for centuries), there will be enough food for everyone. Both us and the rats. We survived the famine, but somehow we will survive the abundance ...

But until this happens (and it can happen only by chance), citizens are forced to defend themselves using improvised means. Below I will try to present some developments in this area and my thoughts.

Options

Whether you like it or not, you come into contact with dogs one way or another. Stray dogs, unless they are fed in your yard, are dangerous in two ways. When they are rabid and rush at everything that moves, and when they stray into packs of more than a dozen dogs with a strong leader at the head. Fortunately, these phenomena are quite public and do not exist in time. For better or for worse, sooner or later, both will be destroyed or scattered. But, unfortunately, these are the most dangerous cases. Even a single bite from a rabid dog or an attack by a pack of dogs is a very likely opportunity to quickly and painfully end one's life either in a clinic or directly at the site of the attack.

"Familiar" dogs. These are the dogs of your neighbors in the house, the entrance. Those. the ones you run into quite regularly in the yard and even the elevator.

"Unfamiliar" dogs. Those dogs that you encounter while walking in the park, jogging, and other situations. Perhaps you see them for the first and last time.

I introduced such a division because it provides various models your behaviour.

Dogs are pack animals, with a clear hierarchical pack structure. Leader and subordinates. Any disobedience is punished quickly and severely, sometimes by death. Therefore, in relations with dogs, one should rely on the psychology of dogs - she always wants to take the place of the leader, if there is even the slightest chance to do so. Such is nature.
From this follow the following conclusions:

Never fawn over a dog by trying to buy its favor with affection. Do not believe this nonsense of trainers about "love for animals". You can force an animal to do what it has not done for the next 5 million years either by fear of punishment if you do not, or by the desire to get food (i.e., hunger). Some exceptions are dolphins, but everything is different there. If you curry favor with a dog (even your own), she will immediately understand that she is the Owner. And it will be almost impossible to convince her otherwise.
If the contact is one-time, and you do not want to position yourself in relation to her, behave like a being from another world. For example, a bird in a tree. Those. show your dog that you are with him life paths do not intersect at all. In other words - do not pay any attention to it (or at least pretend to). Do not look into her eyes, do not turn around in her direction (if the dog shows interest in you from afar, observe with peripheral vision). She is an empty place, and you are busy with your own affairs. Then she will not consider that you are encroaching on her territory, her place in the pack, you do not want to take away her prey.

General rules

Dogs are excellent telepaths. They feel your mood and state well, the presence of adrenaline in your blood. But adrenaline is different. There is an adrenaline rush of fear - you are a ready victim, you are afraid of a dog, and you are already ready to fix it. And there is the adrenaline of victory, the one that is present in the blood of the winner, the one that gives a feeling of delight.

Don't be afraid of dogs. Dogs are trained on a person (there are an insignificant number of them among those with whom you contact) and Untrained. To train a dog for a person is a very expensive pleasure and either completely frostbitten owners of fighting dogs or special services go for it. The second, however, you should not be afraid. If it comes to that, then this dog's attack is peanuts compared to your further problems. In addition, they are trained for detention, and not for extermination and gnawing to death.

Untrained dogs do not have the skills to attack a person. Serious injuries are possible only by accident - the dog bit your leg - you fell, hit your head on the asphalt. Usually everything ends with bites of the legs, arms, occasionally torso, face.

People can also be prepared and unprepared for defense against dogs. Worst case- an attack by a dog trained on a person on an unprepared person or child. The likelihood of a fatal outcome for a person is very high. The best option for a person is a trained person and an untrained dog. The chance of death for a dog is almost 100%.

If both "contactees" are unprepared, then, as a rule, it does not come to a fight. The bite will most likely be one-time and accidental. Most likely, everything will end with barking and screaming.

In a conflict between a trained dog and a trained person, the person almost always wins, although often with heavy losses.

Therefore, it is best to always be prepared for a fight with a dog. Even basic training greatly increases your chances of getting out of the battle without serious damage to your body, not to mention survival. As they say, be prepared. If you want peace, prepare for war.

The best war is the one that hasn't started

An attack by a dog on a person (if it is not a special service dog and not on the orders of the owner), is still a rare phenomenon. In 99% of cases, everything ends with angry barking and mutual threats. But if you don't want to win this lottery, don't buy lottery tickets.

Never tease dogs, do not shout, do not swing at her, do not provoke her to aggression. It is also impossible to sneak up, suddenly and loudly turn to its owner, behave aggressively, do jerky movements. Don't try to give your dog commands. Thus, you claim the place of the Master, whom she protects. Any of these actions for a dog means an attack on her, the owner, the territory. And, of course, it will cause a defensive response.

Do not expect to intimidate the dog, especially if he is with the owner. You can only intimidate a downtrodden single stray dog. She has certainly suffered a lot from people and she herself does not want to come into contact with them once again. It is extremely difficult to intimidate a dog "with the owner", his bread, as a watchman and security guard, he will work out to the end. It's easier to kill him or incapacitate him in some other way than to intimidate him.

That's why The best way avoid conflict - do not provoke it yourself.

stray dogs

If you see that the flock has spread out in the middle of the road, it is better to cross calmly and ahead of time to the other side. No need to try to take the place of the leader of this pack. Do not tempt fate and do not drag lottery tickets. Since the flock is lying and not prowling, it means that it is not on the hunt.

If this is not possible and it is impossible to disperse, two behaviors are possible. One of them is to demonstrate complete indifference to them. However, a completely unmotivated attack on their part is possible here. Little will seem to them. Walking through a pack of dogs is an unpleasant pleasure.

Perhaps this the only way when there is a reason to start a war first. Even on the approach, you should shout at the dogs in a loud and low voice, reminiscent of a growl. A dog is an animal, although it distinguishes articulate speech, it reacts to intonation. If you start with threats ("growls"), then you are ready for battle. And if she has nothing to defend here, she (they) will most likely retreat even after a scream.

You should defiantly show the dogs that you are armed - pick up (or pretend to pick up) a stick, branch, stone from the ground. Dogs certainly have unpleasant experiences with these objects and do not want to relapse. If the distance allows, you can even throw a stone in the direction of the pack, demonstrating the seriousness of your intentions.

familiar dogs

The best thing to do is really get to know them. You will have to live with them, as they say, i.e. collide constantly. Those. talk to the owner in a calm voice about the weather, his car, ask for advice about the dog (even if you hate this flea bag). Say a few compliments towards the owner and herself. In general, make sure that she smells you, remembers you and the timbre of your voice. Moreover, the friendly atmosphere of the first acquaintance is important. "The owner's friend is my friend (although not the owner)." Such a confrontation will greatly reduce the likelihood of conflict between you and the dog. But never reduce it to zero, sometimes dogs even attack own owners, so you still need to be on the alert and feel the mood of the dog.

unfamiliar dogs

This contingent is the most dangerous, since it is “with the owner”, “on duty”, can be trained, etc. Some "dog lovers" - moral freaks, even like that everyone around is afraid of his dog.

It is best not to provoke conflict here. Cm. general recommendations. Behave independently, do not encroach on their interests, do not make claims. Even if the conflict does occur, the truth will be on your side, you were not the initiator, which almost guarantees victory in the trial.

If war cannot be avoided

Learn "materiel". The dog is a strong muscular animal, weighing several tens of kilograms. Her main weapons are her teeth and fangs. A dog is not a cat, it does not pull its claws. The typical behavior of a dog during an attack is a jump, overturning the enemy, followed by biting. Some try to cling to the throat, some inflict multiple bites, trying to tear out pieces of meat. This is about a trained dog. They are trained to dodge blows, very dodgy and agile.

The dog does not have many vulnerabilities, but they are. And if you know them, you can quickly neutralize any dog, especially using various "weapons".

The worst thing in a fight with a dog is fear of it and passive defense (falling down, covering your head with your hands, etc.) - in this case, you will definitely suffer and more than actively defending yourself.

So, what places on the dog's body are the most vulnerable. This is, first of all, the tip of the nose, the bridge of the nose, occipital part and a crown behind the ears, solar plexus, ribs, paw joints, coccyx. Vulnerable places also include eyes, nostrils (scent), mucous membranes, genitals. These vulnerabilities must be acted upon mechanically (with a fist, fingers, improvised objects (stones, sticks, branches, dust, dirt), pre-prepared weapons.

It should be borne in mind that trained dogs and dogs individual breeds(fighting) are accustomed to pain and it is very difficult to take them for pain control. Therefore, you should disable them simply mechanically - do not pretend that you are breaking your paw, but really break it. Do not press your knee on the dog's ribs, but jump with all your weight. Your goal is to KILL the dog, not drive it away or "punish". She has already crossed the threshold of what is permitted and must be destroyed. By at least, she will not stop and will attack even dead man(she doesn't know if he's dead or alive) so you really fight to the death. And not virtual.

Psychological weapon

Some psychologists argue that many people find it psychologically difficult to fight dogs. Just as most people experience disgust and a feeling of disgust if a spider or a cockroach falls on them and an instant desire to kill them (although in our area these are the most harmless insects, and spiders are generally useful), so in a fight between a dog and a man, a person does not know how to fight a dog. Therefore, the main model of his behavior is passive defense - to close, run away, reduce his losses to a minimum. The dog, on the other hand, has a complete and overwhelming moral superiority in such a battle and comes out of it without any losses at all and is the winner.

In order to defeat the dog morally, imagine that this is a small, vicious dwarf man with sharp teeth who will bite, who has done you much harm. But you must (and most importantly, have every chance) to kill him.

Morally, you must be prepared for the fact that, most likely, it will not do without bites. Some of the clothes will also be damaged. But the losses in any case will be less than you immediately surrender to the mercy of the winner. And if you are the winner, then the owner of the dog will start having problems. Feel free to assess your moral and physical damage.

Imagine the scene when you break her paws, ribs, choke her with your knee, tear her to pieces, her blood flows like a river, she squeals and tries to run away. Thus, you yourself will mentally prepare for the fight, and dogs - telepaths, will also "see" this picture of their bleak future. Behave like Tarzan, show absolute determination and readiness to fight immediately. Inject yourself with the adrenaline of the Winner. Moreover, it is necessary to shout it loudly and in an evil growling voice, "Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa! What will I do to you! How I have been waiting for this moment! Well, finally! Shout anything, but shout "scary".

Except psychological impact on the dog, these cries will attract others. And the owner of the dog does not smile at all to have so many witnesses. Therefore, he will make every effort to prevent conflict.

Another psychological weapon is your behavior. Dogs are trained to ATTACK a person and defend themselves against his response. Untrained dogs act instinctively, as if hunting. And on the hunt, it acts exactly like this - they overtake the prey, jump, knock it over backwards and tear or gnaw through the throat. Her nature taught this for millions of years.

Another model of behavior - the victim stops and begins to defend himself. Then the flock surrounds her with a ring, and those dogs that are from the back attack. In our case, there is no pack, and you are always face to face.

What follows from the analysis of the behavior of the dog during the attack? It is necessary to behave NON-STANDARD, not in the way she expects. In the very dangerous case- the dog is pulled on the person. Behave NOT LIKE A HUMAN, but like an unusual animal.

Never be passive by falling and covering yourself with your hands.

Should never run away - still don't run away, dog run 5 times faster than a human. The exception is the case when it is possible to be guaranteed to be out of the dog's reach. For example - quickly climb a branchy tree, climb a ladder, enter waist-deep water.

By the way, the dog in the water is very defenseless. You then stand on the ground, and she floats. It is enough to dodge at least once, grab her by the fur, fall on her and dive with her or duck so that her muzzle is in the water. It'll all be over in a minute. Simply put, if she rushes into the water after you, drowning the dog, if desired, is as easy as shelling pears.

If there is no opportunity to hide, then you should take up defense, or even attack it yourself. For example, run towards her, screaming terribly, taking off her jacket (coat), waving improvised items (umbrella, bag, briefcase). Then the dog turns from a hunter into a game, which is unfamiliar to him, he was not taught this. Other instincts begin to work - self-preservation. Even if the dog is not afraid and continues to run at you, do not stop. If she jumps, dodge and give her a good kick in the groin or under the tail, hit the back of the head with your fist from top to bottom. A miss during a jump is the strongest stress for a dog, which sharply reduces its self-esteem - it has already lost one round. The main thing is not to let her knock you down during the jump due to her kinetic energy. But if she doesn't give up after that active form attacks, the game goes into the endgame.

You need to continue inappropriate behavior that the dog does not expect. Immediately you need to take a stable pose and turn sideways to the dog. Bend your head down and cover your throat with your chin. If possible, take off your coat, jacket and use them to occupy the dog's mouth or throw it over his head, blind him. At the same time, you need to hit, hit, and hit on vulnerable points. If you managed to knock down a dog - a lying dog is not a fighter. Jump on it with your whole body and knee forward, on the chest, spine. If you manage to tilt the dog's head back, hit the base of the skull with your fist and break its spine.

If you not big man, and the dog is large enough, you can even get on one or two knees for stability (but only after the dog jumps). Thus, you will become more stable and take your legs out of the blow - the most unprotected part of the body.

An important role is played by the possibility of disruption of the optical connection between the owner and the dog. Without visual contact with her master, she feels much less confident. Therefore, if possible, drag her along to the bush, behind the trees, around the corner, etc. The dog immediately loses the incentive to continue the fight. The territory is certainly not hers, the owner is also not visible, you are not a game ... What to fight for? In most cases, she will try to get out of the fight.

Should be used in combat different kinds"weapons". As they say in England, it doesn't matter what you have. What matters is how effectively you use it. Now about the "weapon".

Chemical weapon.

Dogs have an unrivaled sense of smell. He is their weakest point. If you force her to smell SOMETHING, then her desire to fight disappears almost instantly and regardless of her desire.

Dogs are practically not affected by various nerve agents from "human" canisters. But an excellent effect is given by pepper or mustard gases. Therefore, purchase only such cartridges or cartridges for gas weapons. Apply gas weapon against dogs can be from any distance. A dog, getting into a cloud of such gas, becomes disoriented very quickly. And if you manage to send a jet into the nostrils - the war ends immediately. This creature immediately has other problems, more important than you.

During the war, SMERSH workers used a homemade mixture (the so-called Cayenne mixture) to neutralize dogs. It consists of a mixture of ground black pepper and tobacco in a ratio of 50/50. When buying tobacco, choose the smelliest one. Both pepper and tobacco are additionally ground to a dusty state (for example, with a coffee grinder). You can also add mustard powder. This "dust" perfectly sticks and settles on any moist mucous membrane - the nose, nostrils, mouth, eyes and causes an unbearable burning sensation, and with an increasing effect. And unlike gas, which escapes, dust is removed only mechanically - by washing. Those. dog neutralized for at least a few hours plus further treatment. And if she breathes it in enough to the point of burning respiratory tract, with contact with the bronchi and lungs, then a fatal outcome is also likely. And the end will be extremely painful.

Store this mixture in a plastic cylindrical cup. In the outer pocket. Moreover, the lid must be both tight and removed instantly and with one hand, for example, thumb. Vitamin bottles are perfect.

Practice snatching the vial from the upper breast pockets and dropping the cap. See drill and other weapons.

You can also make powder grenades. For this, a New Year cracker is taken. It is carefully disassembled from the side of the release of confetti. Instead of confetti, cayenne mixture is poured and the cracker is sealed. The cord is extended up to 30-40 centimeters. If you expect "contact", then the free end of the cord is tied in advance to a loop in your pocket, belt, etc. Then it will be possible to activate this mini-gun with one hand. He took out - sent - pulled in the direction of the enemy. There is a shot with the ejection of the mixture by 1-1.5 meters. It should be remembered that crackers have low reliability.

"Noise" weapon

Dogs, especially trained ones, are not afraid of the sound of gunshots. Yes, and untrained to scare the distracted loud sound difficult. Another thing is to shoot her right in the ear. My grandfather slaughtered wild boars this way. The pig was not fed for a day, then given liquid food. At that time, she was not interested in anything else. Grandfather calmly put the barrel of a gun with a blank cartridge into the pig's ear and fired. Death has always been instantaneous. From pain shock and cerebral hemorrhage.

On sale there are various buggers and devices for firing gas or noise cartridges. Having occupied the mouth of the dog with your left hand, insert the barrel into the ear and shoot. The dog is dead

In principle, large firecrackers can also be used, but not for noise, but by making gas grenades out of them. For this, a cayenne mixture is prepared, a small paper casing is glued around the firecracker, where the mixture is poured (about one teaspoon). The casing is sealed.

When a firecracker explodes, a suspension of pepper and tobacco, gunpowder is formed.

The only drawback is that firecrackers are not very reliable and are difficult to put into action unless special measures are taken.

You should use firecrackers with an incendiary head (strike on the box - threw it - after a few seconds an explosion, and not with a cord.

Electric weapons

These are, you guessed it, electrical dischargers. Since the dog has a thick coat and a thick undercoat, the discharger should be slightly modified if you plan to use it against dogs. It is necessary to increase the contact needles to 3-5 centimeters. Fortunately, most vicious dogs are short-haired and it is not difficult for the contacts of the spark gap to penetrate their fur. If you have a spark gap with firing contacts, shoot only for sure, at point-blank range. The main place of electric shock is the neck and chest.

"Fire" weapon

On sale there are signal cartridges of the "Torch" type. it special compound in a case resembling a small grenade. The principle of operation is like a cracker - "pull, baby, by the rope ..." After triggering, the cartridge throws out a torch of blinding flame 30-50 centimeters long within a minute. If you lengthen the cord up to 20-30 cm with a reliable cord, and the cartridge itself will be worn in an accessible place, then put it into action - half a second and with one hand. After jerking, the cartridge turns into a mini-flamethrower. And I do not know such an animal that would withstand the pressure of the flame for more than a second. It is worth using this weapon only if the dog has come into contact with you.

I want to note that this cartridge does not require air to burn - it burns even under water. Therefore, he is not afraid of either wind or rain. But, unfortunately, the cartridge is disposable. And its action cannot be stopped.

A gas lighter can also act as a flamethrower. Once I came across a Chinese lighter (defective), which gave a tongue of flame 20 centimeters long. Well, why not a flamethrower? You can easily set fire to the aggressor's face.

"Iron Tooth"

Remember Mowgli? His fight with Shere Khan? "The tale is a lie, but there is a hint in it, a lesson for good fellows" (this is already Pushkin). Quite a lot of household items have a dual purpose and can act as " iron tooth"- edged weapons. At the same time, the police cannot have any claims against you. Meanwhile, they can easily penetrate into dog neck.

First of all, these are:

Pen. Let it not be a plastic Chinese tube, but a metal one, made of steel, with a pointed end.
Comb. Let it be with a long thin pointed handle. A la stiletto.
Screwdriver. Spatula or cross. Any with a rod length of 10 centimeters.
Nail. Length 150-200 mm.

A fairly optimal weapon is ... a pestle from a mortar, for grinding. From faience or metal. It greatly enhances the punch, and if you hit from top to bottom (which is natural in a fight with a dog), a skull fracture, broken ribs or a fracture of the spine are almost guaranteed.

improvised items

It can be a stone, a stick, a piece of asphalt, foliage, dust, dirt. None of these items should be thrown. Especially if he is alone. Hold the stone in your fist - a blow to it will be much more painful than just a fist. With a stick, you can keep the dog at a distance, and upon contact, you can break the dog's spine with it or poke it in the eye, mouth, or groin. A handful of foliage can be put into the dog's mouth, into the muzzle. You will cause a little harm to her, but you will gain time, you will be able to take a more stable posture, take an advantageous position. Dust and dirt can clog eyes, nose, make her sneeze. Only it is necessary to apply them "at point-blank range", in contact with the dog's muzzle.

Of the items at hand that you have, there may be an umbrella, a bag, a bag, clothes ... You should not use an umbrella like a club, it is not effective. An umbrella works much better as a shield. Open and close it - the dog does not understand the essence of things. For her, even paper is an insurmountable barrier if she does not see the goal. And the suddenly changing geometric dimensions of the victim simply confuse her. Consider the Incas, Mayans and Aztecs. When they first saw a rider on a horse, they thought it was half animal, half human. And they were horrified when the rider dismounted - the animal was divided. The dog (any) is simply frightened if the dome of the umbrella suddenly swings open in front of it.

The bag can "occupy" the dog's mouth. If you beat her in the face, on the nose, the dog will reflexively seek to bite her. Let her grab the bag. When she grabs it, pull it towards you with all your might. The dog will try to keep it. Take the bag aside, divert attention and kick the dog. If possible, knock over the dog, fall on it with your whole body.

If you manage to take off your jacket or coat, use it to distract the dog like a shield. Try to throw a coat over the dog, blind him and make it difficult for him to move. If you succeeded, fall on her with all your weight. If it was not possible to remove the coat completely, try to free half the left sleeve. Use it as a "stand" to occupy the dog's mouth. The right, free hand can strike.

If there is no dog "at hand", train without it. If you are shy - at the dacha in an open field, in the forest. In the end, just practicing a strike is already a great thing. You also need to know how to hurt. If you are not training alone, the role of the dog can be played by a partner (alternately).

In any case, you must be mentally prepared for a fight with a dog. Many people simply become numb if the dog pounces on them and go into a deaf defense, which consists in dodging the dog and plaintive cries. They do not even think about active defense, let alone attack.

Remember, a trained person can kill a dog, or at least neutralize it by knockout, almost instantly. For example, with a counter punch to the nose, to the back of the head, to the bridge of the nose. He can take her under pain control with a simultaneous blow to the eyes with his fingers, a blow to the solar plexus, plug or tear out her nostrils with his fingers. A dog can take control of a person in rare cases, and then, if he is absolutely unprepared.

Therefore, you must be morally stronger than a dog, feel like a master of the situation. Dogs feel it too. Your ideology should be "I will do with you whatever I want, and you will only do with me what I allow you."

Effects

During a fight with a dog, in no case take care of "branded" clothes, things, etc. their cost is a mere trifle, compared with the cost quality treatment from bites. In addition, their cost, plus non-pecuniary damage, can be recovered through the court from the owner of the dog. It would be very stupid if you find yourself badly bitten due to the fact that you "cherished" your favorite jacket. You have ONE life and health, and you will buy new jeans or a jacket for yourself and 10 more times. And at the expense of the owner of the dog.

Any fact of a dog attacking a person (independently or at the instigation of the owner) is an emergency. In no case should such incidents be left without consequences. Even if the owner claims that it was you who teased his dog - the dog is in public place must be on a leash and muzzled. The maximum that she is allowed to do is to poke around at the one who teases her. Here in the owner's apartment, let her even walk on the ceiling and on his head. But not in a public place.

Even if someone's dog just barked at you - this is already a THREAT, and a reason to contact the police, and the court, a deputy, the SES, etc. The first 5 of your statements may not be noticed. But the water wears away the stone...

Moreover, if your path lies through a "dog playground" where you could potentially be attacked, write letters. And send them by registered order and with notification. In all instances, even up to the President of the Russian Federation. Those who create problems for other citizens should have problems, and not vice versa. And do not listen to the "protectors of animals" - in civilized Europe there are a lot of cities where it is simply FORBIDDEN to keep dogs at all, by law. Do you want a dog? - live in the village. Do you love a dog? - love! But the rest of her love is not required! Your dog is your problem. And try to make sure that no one gets in trouble because of your dog.

One of the greats said: "The more I get to know people, the more I love dogs." There is, of course, some truth to this. But he loves HIS dogs, not dogs in general. Yes, some people are bastards. But dogs are just animals, they don't obey the law, they obey only their instincts and reflexes. And therefore it is necessary to treat them like animals, and not "make an idol out of them." Even if they are very expensive in terms of money.

From this article you will learn:

Why does a dog bite?
Should I pet a wagging dog?
Dog psychology. How to suppress the psyche of a dog?
Postures of submission. "Thugs" in the four-legged world.

Attacked by a dog living in our yard
She responded to the nickname Lucy kids ...

from a popular song

There is a widespread belief that the dog is ours. four-legged friend, but sometimes this friend turns out to be the most sworn enemy. In this chapter, we will cover all fears associated with a dog attack, all the truth and False associated with dog self-defense, with vulnerabilities, with prohibited, non-prohibited techniques, physical impact and psychological suppression of a four-legged monster, as well as a bunch of these monsters.

A few words about what a dog is not a wolf - it will not run into the forest. A dog is more dangerous than a wolf. A dog, unlike a wolf, has no fear of a person, it is not afraid of fire, often it is not afraid of loud claps. Feral dogs huddled in packs represent real danger for a person.

This means that dogs huddled in packs pose a mortal danger to humans, feral dogs ... and not only for children and drunks, the disabled and pensioners. A dog may well attack a living person.

Imagine a clear sunny day... You are walking in a forest park, at this time a dog approaches you, wagging its tail, or you approach a dog, which, when you appear, begins to wag its tail. What will you think? Nice dog, needs to be petted. You raise your hand in order to stroke the animal's fur, and at this moment it growls and clings to your hand. Shock. Panic. For what? Why?

Now I translate your actions from the point of view canine psychology. Tail in a dog- mood indicator, respectively, the higher the tail, the more dispersed the dog is. I draw your attention to the fact that not in a more iridescent, friendly, but in a more overclocked state. Those. a dog that is doing poorly, lowers its tail, or that is sad, sad, bored. A dog that is excited lifts its tail.

You saw the dog, the dog saw you. You are invading her territory, her personal space. The dog raises its tail, it is getting ready. At this moment, the two-legged raises his hand, "doesn't want to hit otherwise"- the dog thinks, and only for the purpose of self-defense: after all, he invaded his personal space, he hits you, he grabs your hand. Here is a story about a dog this is how it often happens. So, this is a word about what is not necessary, if you see that the dog is wagging its tail, climb to kiss and hug it, you do not need to try to pet it. There is a science of canine psychology, the so-called ethology, ethology like section zoopsychology.

So there is ethology, she is zoopsychology and her dog section, i.e. section on dog psychology different situations. So this is the one ethology in addition to the personal space of a dog, and even a person, because we, like a dog, have four limbs and one head, also distinguishes the so-called postures of submission. Postures of submission- these are the poses that the losing dog takes and the winning dog does not touch it. These are the poses on the back, with legs tucked in, with an open neck, with a stomach, lower abdomen. The same poses are recommended for a person to take at the time of a dog attack on him, i.e. lie on your back, spread your legs.

In fact, this pose of a woman is called "rape me". Lie on your back, spread your legs, arms, throw your throat up, and offer the dog to bite off what he likes the most.

Second option(this, apparently, is for homophiles): lie on your stomach, tuck your hands under you, i.e. You cannot resist: you are completely defenseless.

These poses can work with a dog with a healthy mind. With a dog with an unhealthy psyche, in fact, they are encountered as often as people with mental disorders. These poses may not work in a pack of hungry dogs who see you not as a rival, but as food, i.e. food. it is quite possible that you will just be eaten.

A good posture of submission, which ... or rather good posture, not obedience, but just a pose that I like - when passing by the dog, demonstrate to her with an open palm, put your hands down, spread them down and open your palms so that the dog sees that you have nothing in your hands, looking into her eyes. it soothing moment, the dog sees that you do not have weapons, sticks, you are safe. As a rule, the dog does not touch.

second moment, the practical one that really works is the psychological suppression of a predator or a group of predators. Everything is exactly the same as with two-legged: look into the eyes, preferably two in one, animal grin and powerful cry. The scream should be with an outburst, with amplification towards the end, animal in nature, powerful, loud. By the way, at the moment of a powerful, loud cry, the animal grin manifests itself. The attacking dog falls into a stupor because the biped has shown uncharacteristic behavior for it, showing its teeth, which it never did, and began to growl like a wild, crazy animal.

If we compare the average weight of a person (75 kg.) And the average weight of a dog (35 kg.), Then the difference is two times, i.e. it is tantamount to the fact that a bear would try to attack you. Scary? This is where the dog gets scared.. She gets frightened and runs away, a technique that has been tried and tested many times and is successful. Important condition: You must scream loudly, sharply and like an animal. Anything from: "A-ah-ah-ah-ah-ah!". The cry must be worked out.

To be continued…

In the next issue you will learn:

Combat stance. How to stand up so that the dog does not bite off the most valuable thing?
What is a sausage for a dog, may be the most valuable for you.
Step into the "mouth of the dragon" or how to avoid injury when bitten?
How to break the neck of a fighting dog?
The terrible truth about self-defense from a dog.
What are the methods for dogs?

Often, owners are faced with the problem of cowardly dogs. Sometimes this problem is successfully solved by competent adaptation to stimuli, by working on behavior on your own or with an experienced instructor. But there are situations when fearfulness is not just a behavioral problem or the result of improper upbringing. It happens that cowardly behavior dogs are just a character trait that cannot be corrected or consequences psychological trauma received in early childhood. How to raise such a dog, this article will tell.

Causes of cowardly dogs

Sometimes this character trait is associated with improper upbringing and training. Sometimes these are consequences of education through the use of potent negative reinforcement. If this is the reason, you can try to rehabilitate the dog with the help of competent training and patient education. Of course, this will take more than one week, month or year, but if you patiently go towards your goal, you can achieve good result. It is better not to try to do the rehabilitation of the dog on your own, but immediately turn to experienced cynologist. If this is not possible, good option will read the literature of zoopsychologists, in which such a topic is discussed.

But there are times when the cowardice of dogs cannot be corrected. This may be a trait of character or the result of improper rearing and upbringing at an early puppy age.

What to do if the problem is not solved?

The owner of a shy dog can sometimes be very difficult. It is not easy when a pet is afraid of cars, other dogs, people, bicycles, loud noises, etc. How to behave so as not to introduce yourself and the dog into a state of even greater despondency?

It must be remembered that a shy dog will never behave in the same way as those dogs that you can meet on your street, in the yard, in the usual walking place, etc. Therefore, you can not compare your dog and other pets. This can lead to very negative consequences. It is important for a dog to feel that it is still the best and most courageous for its owner!
Don't assume that your dog will enjoy socializing with other dogs and people if it's under a lot of stress! If it is noticeable that the pet is uncomfortable in the company of his fellows, learn to spend time together. Let it be walking along quiet streets, alleys, playing with a dog in fetching an object. Instead of worrying about the shy nature of the dog, make sure that he feels joy and satisfaction from joint games with the owner.
Dressing is not an option. If many options have already been tried, trips to different instructors, self-training, but nothing helped, which means that the problem is in the character of the dog and this is unlikely to be changed somehow. Of course, this does not mean that such a pet does not need training. Commands can make life and daily behavior of the dog much easier, but if the problem is deep in the dog's psyche, this method most likely will not have any effect.
You need to learn how to avoid irritants that create stress for your dog. The calmer the pet's life goes, the better it will be for him and his owner.
If the dog cannot completely ignore the stimulus and not be stressed when it appears, even with increased and thorough training, you just need to try to make the dog's stay with him a little less annoying and if you can not completely eliminate the excitement, at least reduce its degree.

Before diagnosing your dog as shy, you need to make sure that the problem is not amenable to correction, and try to eradicate it with competent education and training. If the dog by nature has a shy character, the main thing to remember is that with little effort you can do life together with a pet more comfortable and happy!

Whether you like it or not, you come into contact with dogs in one way or another. Stray dogs, unless they are fed in your yard, are dangerous in two ways.

When they are rabid and rush at everything that moves, and when they stray into packs of more than a dozen dogs with a strong leader at the head.

Fortunately, these phenomena are quite public and do not exist in time. For better or for worse, sooner or later, both will be destroyed or scattered. But unfortunately, these are the most dangerous cases.

Even a single bite from a rabid dog or an attack by a pack of dogs is a very likely opportunity to quickly and painfully end one's life either in a clinic or directly at the site of the attack.

"Familiar" dogs. These are the dogs of your neighbors in the house, the entrance. Those. the ones you run into quite regularly in the yard and even the elevator.

"Unfamiliar" dogs. Those dogs that you encounter while walking in the park, jogging, and other situations. Perhaps you see them for the first and last time.

I introduced this division because it provides for different models of your behavior.

Dogs are pack animals, with a clear hierarchical pack structure. Leader and subordinates. Any disobedience is punished quickly and severely, sometimes by death.

Therefore, in relations with dogs, one should rely on the psychology of dogs - she always wants to take the place of the leader, if there is even the slightest chance to do so. Such is nature.

From this follow the following conclusions:

*Never fawn over a dog trying to buy her location with a caress. Do not believe this nonsense of trainers about "love for animals". You can force an animal to do what it has not done for the next 5 million years either by fear of punishment if you do not, or by the desire to get food (i.e., hunger).

Some exceptions are dolphins, but everything is different there. If you curry favor with a dog (even your own), she will immediately understand that she is the Owner. And it will be almost impossible to convince her otherwise.

* If the contact is one-time and you do not want to position yourself in relation to her, act like a creature from another world . Like a bird in a tree. Those. Demonstrate to the dog that your life paths do not intersect with it. In other words - do not pay any attention to it (or at least pretend to).

Do not look into her eyes, do not turn around in her direction (if the dog shows interest in you from afar, observe with peripheral vision). She is an empty place, and you are busy with your own affairs. Then she will not consider that you are encroaching on her territory, her place in the pack, you do not want to take away her prey.

General rules

Don't be afraid of dogs. Dogs are trained on a person (there are an insignificant number of them among those with whom you contact) and Untrained. To train a dog for a person is a very expensive pleasure and either completely frostbitten owners of fighting dogs or special services go for it.

The second, however, you should not be afraid. If it comes to that, then this dog's attack is peanuts compared to your further problems. In addition, they are trained for detention, and not for extermination and gnawing to death.

People can also be prepared and unprepared for defense against dogs. The worst option is an attack by a dog trained on a person on an unprepared person or child. The likelihood of a fatal outcome for a person is very high. The best option for a person is a trained person and an untrained dog. The chance of death for a dog is almost 100%.

If both "contactees" are unprepared, then, as a rule, it does not come to a fight. The bite will most likely be one-time and accidental. Most likely, everything will end with barking and screaming.

In a conflict between a trained dog and a trained person, the person almost always wins, although often with heavy losses.

The best war is the one that hasn't started

Never tease dogs, do not shout, do not swing at her, do not provoke her to aggression. It is also impossible to sneak up, suddenly and loudly turn to its owner, behave aggressively, make sudden movements.

Don't try to give your dog commands. Thus, you claim the place of the Master, whom she protects. Any of these actions for a dog means an attack on her, the owner, the territory. And, of course, it will cause a defensive response.

Do not expect to intimidate the dog, especially if she is with the owner. Only a downtrodden single stray dog can be intimidated. She has certainly suffered a lot from people and she herself does not want to come into contact with them once again.

It is extremely difficult to intimidate a dog "with the owner", his bread, as a watchman and security guard, he will work out to the end. It's easier to kill him or incapacitate him in some other way than to intimidate him.

Therefore, the best way to avoid conflict is not to provoke it yourself.

stray dogs

If you see that the flock has spread out in the middle of the road, it is better to cross calmly and ahead of time to the other side. No need to try to take the place of the leader of this pack. Do not tempt fate and do not drag lottery tickets. Since the flock is lying, and not prowling, it means that it is not on the hunt.

Perhaps this is the only way when there is a reason to start a war first. Even on the approach, you should shout at the dogs in a loud and low voice, reminiscent of a growl. A dog is an animal, although it distinguishes articulate speech, it reacts to intonation. If you start with threats ("growls"), then you are ready for battle. And if she has nothing to defend here, she (they) will most likely retreat even after a scream.

familiar dogs

"The owner's friend is my friend (although not the owner)." Such a confrontation will greatly reduce the likelihood of conflict between you and the dog. But it will never reduce it to zero, sometimes dogs even attack their own owners, so you still need to be on the alert and feel the mood of the dog.

unfamiliar dogs

This contingent is the most dangerous, since it is “with the owner”, “on duty”, can be trained, etc. Some "dog lovers" - moral freaks, even like that everyone around is afraid of his dog.

It is best not to provoke conflict here. See general guidelines. Behave independently, do not encroach on their interests, do not make claims. Even if the conflict does occur, the truth will be on your side, you were not the initiator, which almost guarantees victory in the trial.

If war cannot be avoided

Learn "materiel". The dog is a strong muscular animal, weighing several tens of kilograms. Her main weapons are her teeth and fangs. A dog is not a cat, it does not pull its claws.

The typical behavior of a dog during an attack is a jump, overturning the enemy, followed by biting. Some try to cling to the throat, some inflict multiple bites, trying to tear out pieces of meat.

This is about a trained dog. They are trained to dodge blows, very dodgy and agile.

The dog does not have many vulnerabilities, but they are. And if you know them, you can quickly neutralize any dog, especially using various "weapons".

Worst thing about a dog fight- this is fear of it and passive defense (falling down, covering your head with your hands, etc.) - in this case, you will definitely suffer and more than actively defending yourself.

So, what are the places on the dog's body the most vulnerable. First of all, this is the tip of the nose, the bridge of the nose, the back of the head and the crown behind the ears, the solar plexus, the ribs, the joints of the paws, the coccyx. Vulnerable places also include eyes, nostrils (scent), mucous membranes, genitals.

These vulnerabilities must be acted upon mechanically (with a fist, fingers, improvised objects (stones, sticks, branches, dust, dirt), pre-prepared weapons.

It should be borne in mind that trained dogs and dogs of certain breeds (fighting) are accustomed to pain and it is very difficult to take them for pain control. Therefore, you should disable them simply mechanically - do not pretend that you are breaking your paw, but really break it. Do not press your knee on the dog's ribs, but jump with all your weight.

Your goal is to KILL the dog rather than drive her away or "punish". She has already crossed the threshold of what is permitted and must be destroyed. At least she won't stop and will even attack a dead person (she doesn't know if he's dead or alive), so you really fight to the death. And not virtual.

Psychological weapon

Therefore, the main model of his behavior is passive defense - to close, run away, reduce his losses to a minimum. The dog, on the other hand, has a complete and overwhelming moral superiority in such a battle and comes out of it without any losses at all and is the winner.

In order to defeat the dog morally, imagine that this is a small, vicious dwarf man with sharp teeth who will bite, who has done you a lot of harm. But you must (and most importantly, have every chance) to kill him.

Morally, you should be prepared for the fact that, most likely, it will not do without bites. Some of the clothes will also be damaged. But the losses in any case will be less than you immediately surrender to the mercy of the winner. And if you are the winner, then the owner of the dog will start having problems. Feel free to assess your moral and physical damage.

Behave like Tarzan, show absolute determination and readiness to fight immediately. Inject yourself with the adrenaline of the Winner. Moreover, it is necessary to shout it loudly and in an evil growling voice, "Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa! What will I do to you! How I have been waiting for this moment! Well, finally! Shout anything, but shout "scary".

In addition to the psychological impact on the dog, these cries will attract others. And the owner of the dog does not smile at all to have so many witnesses. Therefore, he will make every effort to prevent conflict.

Another model of behavior - the victim stops and begins to defend himself. Then the flock surrounds it with a ring and those dogs that are from the back attack. In our case, there is no pack, and you are always face to face.

What follows from the analysis of the behavior of the dog during the attack? Gotta behave NON-STANDARD not in the way she expects. In the most dangerous case, a dog is dragged onto a person. Behave NOT LIKE A HUMAN, but like an unusual animal.

Never be passive by falling and covering yourself with your hands.

Should never run away- don't run away anyway, a dog runs 5 times faster than a human. The exception is the case when it is possible to be guaranteed to be out of the dog's reach. For example - quickly climb a branchy tree, climb a ladder, enter waist-deep water.

Then the dog turns from a hunter into a game, which is unfamiliar to him, he was not taught this. Other instincts begin to work - self-preservation. Even if the dog is not afraid and continues to run at you, do not stop.

If she jumps, dodge and give her a good kick in the groin or under the tail, hit the back of the head with your fist from top to bottom. A miss during a jump is the strongest stress for a dog, which sharply reduces its self-esteem - it has already lost one round. The main thing is not to let her knock you down during the jump due to her kinetic energy. But if after that it does not give up the active form of attack, the game goes into an endgame.

You need to continue inappropriate behavior that the dog does not expect.

Immediately you need to take a stable pose and turn sideways to the dog. Bend your head down and cover your throat with your chin. If possible, take off your coat, jacket and use them to occupy the dog's mouth or throw it over his head, blind him. At the same time, you need to hit, hit, and hit on vulnerable points. If you managed to knock down a dog - a lying dog is not a fighter. Jump on it with your whole body and knee forward, on the chest, spine.

If you manage to tilt the dog's head back, hit the base of the skull with your fist and break its spine.

If you are not a large person and the dog is large enough, you can even get on one or two knees for stability (but only after the dog jumps). Thus, you will become more stable and take your legs out of the blow - the most unprotected part of the body.

In battle, various types of "weapons" should be used. As they say in England, it doesn't matter what you have. What matters is how effectively you use it. Now about the "weapon".

Chemical weapon. Dogs have an unrivaled sense of smell. He is their weakest point. If you force her to smell SOMETHING, then her desire to fight disappears almost instantly and regardless of her desire.

Practically for dogs. various nerve agents from spray cans do not work"for people". But an excellent effect is given by pepper or mustard gases. Therefore, purchase only such cartridges or cartridges for gas weapons. You can use gas weapons against dogs from any distance. A dog, getting into a cloud of such gas, becomes disoriented very quickly. And if you manage to send a jet into the nostrils - the war ends immediately. This creature immediately has other problems, more important than you.

During the war, SMERSH workers used homemade mixture (called cayenne mixture) to neutralize dogs. It consists of a mixture of ground black pepper and tobacco in a ratio of 50/50. When buying tobacco, choose the smelliest one. Both pepper and tobacco are additionally ground to a dusty state (for example, with a coffee grinder). You can also add mustard powder.

This "dust" perfectly sticks and settles on any moist mucous membrane - the nose, nostrils, mouth, eyes and causes an unbearable burning sensation, and with an increasing effect.

And unlike gas, which escapes, dust is removed only mechanically - by washing. Those. the dog is neutralized for at least a few hours plus further treatment. And if she inhales enough of it, to the state of a burn of the respiratory tract, with contact with the bronchi and lungs, then a fatal outcome is also likely. And the end will be extremely painful.

Store this mixture in a plastic cylindrical cup. In the outer pocket. Moreover, the lid should be both tight and removed instantly and with one hand, for example, with your thumb. Vitamin bottles are perfect.

Practice snatching the vial from the upper breast pockets and dropping the cap.

"Noise" weapon

Dogs, especially trained ones, are not afraid of the sound of gunshots. Yes, and it is difficult to scare the untrained with an abstract loud sound. Another thing is to shoot her right in the ear.

My grandfather slaughtered wild boars this way. The pig was not fed for a day, then given liquid food. At that time, she was not interested in anything else. Grandfather calmly put the barrel of a gun with a blank cartridge into the pig's ear and fired. Death has always been instantaneous. From pain shock and hemorrhage in the brain.

On sale there are various buggers and devices for firing gas or noise cartridges. Having occupied the mouth of the dog with your left hand, insert the barrel into the ear and shoot. The dog is dead

When a firecracker explodes, a suspension of pepper and tobacco, gunpowder is formed.

The only drawback is that firecrackers are not very reliable and are difficult to put into action unless special measures are taken.

You should use firecrackers with an incendiary head (strike on the box - threw it - after a few seconds an explosion, and not with a cord.

Electric weapons

Fortunately, most vicious dogs are short-haired and it is not difficult for the contacts of the spark gap to penetrate their fur. If you have a spark gap with firing contacts, shoot only for sure, at point-blank range. The main place of electric shock is the neck and chest.

"Iron Tooth"

Remember Mowgli? His fight with Shere Khan? "The tale is a lie, but there is a hint in it, a lesson for good fellows" (this is already Pushkin). Quite a lot of household items have a dual purpose and can act as an "iron tooth" - edged weapons. At the same time, the police cannot have any claims against you. Meanwhile, they will easily penetrate the dog's neck,

* Comb. Let it be with a long thin pointed handle. A la stiletto.

* Screwdriver. Spatula or cross. Any with a rod length of 10 centimeters.

* Nail. Length 150-200 mm

improvised items

It can be a stone, a stick, a piece of asphalt, foliage, dust, dirt. None of the items should be thrown. Especially if he is alone.

Hold the stone in your fist - a blow to it will be much more painful than just a fist. With a stick, you can keep the dog at a distance, and upon contact, you can break the dog's spine with it or poke it in the eye, mouth, or groin.

A handful of foliage can be put into the dog's mouth, into the muzzle. You will cause a little harm to her, but you will gain time, you will be able to take a more stable posture, take an advantageous position.

Dust and dirt can clog eyes, nose, make her sneeze. Only it is necessary to apply them "at point-blank range", in contact with the dog's muzzle.

Of the improvised items you have with you, there may be an umbrella, a bag, a bag, clothes ...

You should not act with an umbrella like a club, it is not effective. An umbrella works much better as a shield. Open and close it - the dog does not understand the essence of things. For her, even paper is an insurmountable barrier if she does not see the goal. And the suddenly changing geometric dimensions of the victim simply confuse her.

Consider the Incas, Mayans and Aztecs. When they first saw a rider on a horse, they thought it was half animal, half human. And they were horrified when the rider dismounted - the animal was divided. The dog (any) is simply frightened if the dome of the umbrella suddenly swings open in front of it.

Remember, a trained person can kill a dog, or at least neutralize it by knockout, almost instantly. For example, a counter punch to the nose, to the back of the head, to the bridge of the nose. He can take her under pain control with a simultaneous blow to the eyes with his fingers, a blow to the solar plexus, plug or tear out her nostrils with his fingers. A dog can take control of a person in rare cases, and then if he is absolutely unprepared.

Therefore, you must be morally stronger than the dog, feel like the master of the situation. Dogs feel it too. Your ideology should be "I will do with you whatever I want, and you will only do with me what I allow you."

Effects

During a fight with a dog, in no case take care of "branded" clothes, things, etc. their cost is a mere trifle compared to the cost of quality treatment for bites.

In addition, their cost, plus non-pecuniary damage, can be recovered through the court from the owner of the dog. It would be very stupid if you find yourself badly bitten due to the fact that you "cherished" your favorite jacket. You have ONE life and health, and you will buy new jeans or a jacket for yourself and 10 more times. And at the expense of the owner of the dog.

The maximum that she is allowed to do is to poke around at the one who teases her. Here in the owner's apartment, let her even walk on the ceiling and on his head. But not in a public place.

Moreover, if your path lies through a "dog playground" where you could potentially be attacked, write letters. And send out registered and with notification. In all instances, even up to the President of the Russian Federation. Those who create problems for other citizens should have problems, and not vice versa.