How to scare a dog so that it doesn't bark. Mistakes of owners that exacerbate the dog's fear of people and methods of correction. The best war is the one that hasn't started

Mickey is a dog that hides under the bed whenever someone enters the house. Chala barks and spins under the feet of the owners if a child approaches. When a man approaches Josie, she involuntarily urinates.

What do all these dogs have in common? Dogs are afraid of certain people: strangers, children, or men.

Dogs that are afraid of people are usually described as shy, cowardly, nervous, or cautious. Shy or cowardly behavior easy to recognize: dogs run, hide, or tremble when they see a stranger approaching them.

But fear can manifest itself in a wide variety of behavioral patterns. In response to fear, reactions may appear that foreign trainers call the four F: stupor (freeze), fight (fight), flight (flight) and fool around (fool around). Jumping, seeking attention, urinating, panting, drooling, excessive shedding, and lack of eye-to-eye contact can also indicate uncertainty or fear. Growling, barking, and other aggressive behaviors can also be based on fear.

Where does embarrassment come from?

Cowardly animals are found among dogs of any size, weight class and breeds. Why are dogs afraid?

It is a popular belief that dogs that are afraid of people have suffered from mistreatment or experienced something terrible in their time. Sometimes this is true, but the bigger impact tends to be genetic predisposition and lack of communication (socialization) in puppyhood.

Owners of shy dogs can rarely name exact reason. Fortunately, it is not necessary to know the reasons to help an animal overcome its fears.

Scary people are everywhere.

The first step in helping your dog overcome shyness is to exact definition Who exactly is she shy about. Sometimes it seems that a dog that is shy or scared is afraid of everything around. But, having thought carefully and determining exactly who she was afraid of and under what circumstances, you can get very useful information. This will help you in making a list of those people that the dog is afraid of. For each shy animal, such a list will be unique.

One dog I know has such a list of all strangers outside the house. For another dog, these are children under the age of five. The more you understand what scares your pet, the better.

Once you've figured out who or what is scary, you can start taking steps to smooth out your reactions to the scary things and make them more calm. Situation management will be yours best friend on the early stages working with shy dogs.

How situation management works.

Roughly speaking, situation management involves moving away from the problem or what causes the problem (in this case - scary people), surrounded by a dog. Control alone will not solve the fear issue, but it can prevent the dog from reacting, such as cowering, urinating, barking, or growling, until the animal feels more comfortable around the feared.

Managing the situation can reduce stress levels for the pet and its owner, as well as create an environment conducive to training and behavior modification. In some cases, management plays leading role in the matter of safety (note that if a dog has bitten someone, even in a fit of fear, it is necessary to consult with a dog handler or other certified animal behavior specialist).

Each animal assumes a different control strategy, depending on what causes fear. For example, if you are the owner of a puppy who is afraid strangers, you might find the following strategy helpful:

Avoid crowds where your dog is surrounded by strangers.

Use a leash, cage, or children's fence to keep your dog from interacting with strangers in your home.

Think also about how to protect the dog from sudden encroachments:

If a stranger comes up to you and asks you to pet your dog, answer: “No, sorry, but this makes my dog ​​uncomfortable.”

Stand between a man and a dog.

Create distance by crossing the road or heading the other way.

Once you've mastered the situation and your dog's stress levels are down, get ready to train, desensitize, and learn.

"method of contradiction"!

Workouts for confidence.

Simple workouts are fun and also help make your pet more confident. dog training simple commands, such as "sit", "lie down", "place", lay good foundation and teach your dog to always look at you when he is in doubt. In addition, serious training such as rallying, musical freestyle or agility can significantly boost a dog's self-confidence.

And, while all training will help with fearful dogs, these three exercises will prove to be the most effective in increasing the animal's self-confidence:

Ask for everything politely. Have your dog sit or lie down before you pet him, feed him, play with him, open the door for him, and so on. This builds a mechanism that alleviates stress in dogs and also teaches the dog to expect instructions and rewards from you.

Remember the reward. Reward any manifestation good behavior on people. For example, if you "go out" and your dog sits down in the presence of strangers, mark the behavior with a gesture or a word (such as "yes!") and give your pet a reward. If your pet is polite to a friendly child, mark the behavior (with a gesture or word) and reward the dog. Reward your dog for behavior, even if you didn't ask him to do it! With rewards during right action the dog remembers the way of behavior and tries to copy it in the future, reducing its stress level.

Practice standard behavior. Standard behavior (this is the behavior when the animal does not know what else to do) can be a good help for nervous dog. A perfect example of this standard for dogs is This helps your shy pet get his bearings as well as distract from people who scare him.

Additionally, you can use the presence of "scary" people for commands and practice behavior. Once your dog has gotten used to the “on me” command, start practicing it around strangers or other people who scare your pet. During work, stand at a safe distance from the dog enough so that he does not worry about the close presence of other people (see the section "reducing susceptibility" below).

Every time a scary person appears on the horizon, say the command and reward the dog for doing it right. When the animal sees the intimidating person and acts as you ask it, immediately reward the dog with 10 tidbits and shower him with praise.

Switching emotions

And while appropriate behavior training works for confidence and teaches a dog how to behave appropriately around people who might frighten it, desensitization and the "contradiction method" can be key tools to help a dog overcome fear.

If you've ever dealt with fears, let's say a fear of heights or a fear of spiders, you know that using logic isn't always enough to get rid of that fear. You can't just say, "Hmm, it's stupid to be afraid of spiders, so I won't be afraid of them anymore." Moreover, any mention of "terrible" makes the palms sweat, and the heart beats faster. When a dog is frightened, it experiences something similar - both emotionally and physically.

Desensitization and the "contradiction method" always work well in helping the dog work through the emotional and physical sensations that result from fear of humans.

Desensitization involves confronting things that cause fear (for example, strangers), on acceptable level(at such a distance that the dog noticed them, but did not lose heart). The "contradiction method" consists in presenting a pleasant stimulus (for example, a piece of fried meat) in the presence of a frightening thing (stranger). The goal of this method is to change the emotional and physiological response to a stranger from fear to pleasure and relaxation.

Getting Started

Here is a desensitization and "contradiction method" tactic for a dog that is afraid of strangers:

Determine what scares your dog - the more specific, the better!

Choose something special to fix things. This is the time when you should use the most amazing thing your pet can imagine! For many dogs, the best option is meat: roast beef, hot dogs, chicken breasts. For some dogs, there is an alternative in the form of a particularly valuable item or game (I know a dog who quickly got rid of his fear of children when the neighborhood kids started playing ball with him). Make sure the dog is motivated - if you are using food as a reward, the dog must be hungry!

Determine the acceptable level for the dog. See how close the alien is, how many people are nearby and what they are doing. For example, a dog is not particularly nervous in the presence of one or two people at a distance of 10 meters.

Ask someone to play along and come within 10 meters. Every time a person shows up and your pet notices them, start rewarding your dog with treats. Give a new bite as soon as the dog swallows the previous one.

When the person moves to a safe distance, stop feeding the pet.

Repeat the exercise until the dog waits in awe and glances at you for encouragement every time a stranger comes into view.

When your dog gets used to the stranger, ask the person to come a little closer, like a meter.

Repeat the procedure (several visits over several days), each time asking the stranger to come as close as the dog is comfortable with. Not particularly shy animals need only a few visits so that a stranger can safely walk near the animal, and the dog is happy to see him. Animals with more intense fears will need to be trained with different people for months.

Be patient! Effective reduction sensitivity and the "contradiction method" is like watching paint dry (unless you're a coach and genuinely enjoy these things). Remember that you need to work at an acceptable level. The process is slow and laborious, but the game is worth the candle.

Opportunities

In an ideal world, the "contradiction method" is applied in conjunction with desensitization (that is, the dog is brought together with people who frighten him at an acceptable level, when the animal is relaxed and comfortable). However, in real world while you are working with fears, it is impossible to force your pet to ignore people who scare him. This is fine. Practice the “contradiction method” (feeding treats) every time you see a frightening person at a distance that makes the dog anxious.

In fact, owners of very shy dogs may introduce this feeding practice into everyday life. Feed your pet whenever you walk and see a stranger. If a stranger comes into the house, feed the dog in his presence. If the dog feels comfortable, you can even ask a stranger to treat your pet with treats.

If you ask other people to feed your dog, take care of their safety by giving the appropriate instructions:

Ask the helper to wait until the dog approaches; You don't have to get close to the dog.

Try to arrange for the helper to stand or sit to the side of the dog. Ask him not to lean towards the animal or make eye contact with it.

The helper should hold the treat in an open palm and wait for the dog to come and take the food from the hand. If the dog is too frightened to approach, the helper should gently lower the treats to the ground.

Attention! A fearful dog may temporarily overcome his fear in the presence of a very tidbit, but then bite the intimidating person when the bait is gone. Do not ask strangers and helpers to feed treats until you are sure that the sensitivity is sufficiently reduced - the animal should no longer be afraid to approach strangers or be frightened by the appearance of strangers.

Praise your pet when he or she shows confidence and has a peaceful time with other people.

Your dog sets the pace

One of the most important things about your shy dog ​​is respect for his fears when you let your pet set the pace at which he gets used to new or intimidating people. Prevent his mistakes in behavior by properly managing the situation. Teach your dog basic habits so he knows what to do in new situations. Be generous with large portions joys in the presence of frightening people, so that the pet can overcome his fears.

I've seen shy people, but not very fearful dogs who became more self-confident after a couple of short weeks. But I have also seen dogs that take up to two years to feel comfortable. No matter how long it takes, the time and investment will be worth it - for you and especially for your pet! Helping to gain confidence and overcome fears is not only one of the greatest gifts for your pet, but also a very rewarding activity!

The dog is a weapon. With the owner or on their own. How to protect yourself in case of a dog attack, pain points, ways of protection. program of behavior when meeting with aggressive dog. How to kill a dog. Various types of legal weapons. From the series of articles "School of Survival". This can be useful not only in a fight with a dog ...

Stray dogs and us

Unfortunately, in recent times The "pendulum of relations" between man and animals, which are called "dogs" in our country, is in the position of "dogs". Those. while the prevailing opinion is that "you can't touch a dog." None and under no circumstances. Let it be a hotbed of infection, prone to rabies, multiply uncontrollably and extremely dangerous, etc. - to exterminate them and generally take any measures against them - "inhumane", "inhumane" and all that.

And this despite the fact that meat processing plants (and therefore slaughterhouses) are working at full capacity and new ones are being built (no one spares cows and pigs, moreover, their meat is fed to dogs), despite the fact that the number of stray dogs, potential and real sources of infection is increasing at an alarming pace, despite the fact that the number of bitten people is in the thousands, including those bitten to death, despite the fact that huge money is spent on the "cleansing fight" (and actually stolen).

Yes ... M. Bulgakov really scared us with his Sharikov, who worked in the "cleaning department", directly developed an innate reflex of hatred for those who catch stray animals and seek to protect us from infections and attacks by rabid and semi-mad dogs. If the epidemiologist is almost a hero, then the person who cleans the city from entire colonies of these microbes and their carriers (and rabies, by the way, is incurable and it is always 100% fatal outcome) is a "scoundrel", "flayer", etc. Obviously, something extraordinary must happen, for example, stray dogs will bite Luzhkov or his many children, or some other high-ranking official. Then the brains of the "protectors of stray animals" will quickly be put in their place by an appropriate directive, the pendulum will swing in the other direction, and the citizens will get a few years of respite from this half-mad stray pack.

The newest "invention" of a humane method of struggle - through sterilization, does not give any results (except for the possibility of laundering money - go check if this male is sterilized or not). The dog also wants to eat, is just as aggressive, can also become infected with rabies, and also attack a person. Isn't it easier to just give her an injection and she will soon fall asleep forever and without pain, seeing her happy dog ​​dreams? It will be cheaper as well. The argument that stray dogs regulate the rat population by eating a certain number of them is simply ridiculous. Per Last year, according to SES, the number of rats has increased three (!) times. Thank you, crazy compassionate old women, for our happy doggy lot. They stopped catching us, but we won't catch rats either. You have to chase after them. And in the garbage dumps, the contents of which are taken out not according to circumstances, as the containers are filled, but according to His Majesty's Schedule, given to us by God and signed by Himself (and therefore unchanged for centuries), there will be enough food for everyone. Both us and the rats. We survived the famine, but somehow we will survive the abundance ...

But until this happens (and it can happen only by chance), citizens are forced to defend themselves using improvised means. Below I will try to present some developments in this area and my thoughts.

Options

Whether you like it or not, you come into contact with dogs one way or another. Stray dogs, unless they are fed in your yard, are dangerous in two ways. When they are rabid and rush at everything that moves, and when they stray into packs of more than a dozen dogs with a strong leader at the head. Fortunately, these phenomena are quite public and do not exist in time. For better or for worse, sooner or later, both will be destroyed or scattered. But, unfortunately, these are the most dangerous cases. Even a single bite from a rabid dog or an attack by a pack of dogs is a very likely opportunity to quickly and painfully end one's life either in a clinic or directly at the site of the attack.

"Familiar" dogs. These are the dogs of your neighbors in the house, the entrance. Those. the ones you run into quite regularly in the yard and even the elevator.

"Unfamiliar" dogs. Those dogs that you encounter while walking in the park, jogging, and other situations. Perhaps you see them for the first and last time.

I introduced such a division because it provides various models your behaviour.

Dogs are pack animals, with a clear hierarchical pack structure. Leader and subordinates. Any disobedience is punished quickly and severely, sometimes by death. Therefore, in relations with dogs, one should rely on the psychology of dogs - she always wants to take the place of the leader, if there is even the slightest chance to do so. Such is nature.
From this follow the following conclusions:

• Never fawn over a dog by trying to buy its favor with affection. Do not believe this nonsense of trainers about "love for animals". You can force an animal to do what it has not done for the next 5 million years either by fear of punishment if you do not, or by the desire to get food (i.e., hunger). Some exceptions are dolphins, but everything is different there. If you curry favor with a dog (even your own), she will immediately understand that she is the Owner. And it will be almost impossible to convince her otherwise.
• If the contact is one-time, and you do not want to position yourself in relation to her, behave like a being from another world. For example, a bird in a tree. Those. show your dog that you are with him life paths do not intersect at all. In other words - do not pay any attention to it (or at least pretend to). Do not look into her eyes, do not turn around in her direction (if the dog shows interest in you from afar, observe with peripheral vision). She is an empty place, and you are busy with your own affairs. Then she will not consider that you are encroaching on her territory, her place in the pack, you do not want to take away her prey.

General rules

Dogs are excellent telepaths. They feel your mood and state well, the presence of adrenaline in your blood. But adrenaline is different. There is an adrenaline rush of fear - you are a ready victim, you are afraid of a dog, and you are already ready to fix it. And there is the adrenaline of victory, the one that is present in the blood of the winner, the one that gives a feeling of delight.

Don't be afraid of dogs. Dogs are trained on a person (there are an insignificant number of them among those with whom you contact) and Untrained. To train a dog for a person is a very expensive pleasure and either completely frostbitten owners of fighting dogs or special services go for it. The second, however, you should not be afraid. If it comes to that, then this dog's attack is peanuts compared to your further problems. In addition, they are trained for detention, and not for extermination and gnawing to death.

Untrained dogs do not have the skills to attack a person. Serious injuries are possible only by accident - the dog bit your leg - you fell, hit your head on the asphalt. Usually everything ends with bites of the legs, arms, occasionally torso, face.

People can also be prepared and unprepared for defense against dogs. Worst case- an attack by a dog trained on a person on an unprepared person or child. The likelihood of a fatal outcome for a person is very high. The best option for a person is a trained person and an untrained dog. The chance of death for a dog is almost 100%.

If both "contactees" are unprepared, then, as a rule, it does not come to a fight. The bite will most likely be one-time and accidental. Most likely, everything will end with barking and screaming.

In a conflict between a trained dog and a trained person, the person almost always wins, although often with heavy losses.

Therefore, it is best to always be prepared for a fight with a dog. Even basic training greatly increases your chances of getting out of the battle without serious damage to your body, not to mention survival. As they say, be prepared. If you want peace, prepare for war.

The best war is the one that hasn't started

An attack by a dog on a person (if it is not a special service dog and not on the orders of the owner), is still a rare phenomenon. In 99% of cases, everything ends with angry barking and mutual threats. But if you don't want to win this lottery, don't buy lottery tickets.

Never tease dogs, do not shout, do not swing at her, do not provoke her to aggression. It is also impossible to sneak up, suddenly and loudly turn to its owner, behave aggressively, do jerky movements. Don't try to give your dog commands. Thus, you claim the place of the Master, whom she protects. Any of these actions for a dog means an attack on her, the owner, the territory. And, of course, it will cause a defensive response.

Do not expect to intimidate the dog, especially if he is with the owner. You can only intimidate a downtrodden single stray dog. She has certainly suffered a lot from people and she herself does not want to come into contact with them once again. It is extremely difficult to intimidate a dog "with the owner", his bread, as a watchman and security guard, he will work out to the end. It's easier to kill him or incapacitate him in some other way than to intimidate him.

That's why The best way avoid conflict - do not provoke it yourself.

stray dogs

If you see that the flock has spread out in the middle of the road, it is better to cross calmly and ahead of time to the other side. No need to try to take the place of the leader of this pack. Do not tempt fate and do not drag lottery tickets. Since the flock is lying and not prowling, it means that it is not on the hunt.

If this is not possible and it is impossible to disperse, two behaviors are possible. One of them is to demonstrate complete indifference to them. However, a completely unmotivated attack on their part is possible here. Little will seem to them. Walking through a pack of dogs is an unpleasant pleasure.

Perhaps this the only way when there is a reason to start a war first. Even on the approach, you should shout at the dogs in a loud and low voice, reminiscent of a growl. A dog is an animal, although it distinguishes articulate speech, it reacts to intonation. If you start with threats ("growls"), then you are ready for battle. And if she has nothing to defend here, she (they) will most likely retreat even after a scream.

You should defiantly show the dogs that you are armed - pick up (or pretend to pick up) a stick, branch, stone from the ground. Dogs certainly have unpleasant experiences with these objects and do not want to relapse. If the distance allows, you can even throw a stone in the direction of the pack, demonstrating the seriousness of your intentions.

familiar dogs

The best thing to do is really get to know them. You will have to live with them, as they say, i.e. collide constantly. Those. talk to the owner in a calm voice about the weather, his car, ask for advice about the dog (even if you hate this flea bag). Say a few compliments towards the owner and herself. In general, make sure that she smells you, remembers you and the timbre of your voice. Moreover, the friendly atmosphere of the first acquaintance is important. "The owner's friend is my friend (although not the owner)." Such a confrontation will greatly reduce the likelihood of conflict between you and the dog. But never reduce it to zero, sometimes dogs even attack own owners, so you still need to be on the alert and feel the mood of the dog.

unfamiliar dogs

This contingent is the most dangerous, since it is “with the owner”, “on duty”, can be trained, etc. Some "dog lovers" - moral freaks, even like that everyone around is afraid of his dog.

It is best not to provoke conflict here. Cm. general recommendations. Behave independently, do not encroach on their interests, do not make claims. Even if the conflict does occur, the truth will be on your side, you were not the initiator, which almost guarantees victory in the trial.

If war cannot be avoided

Learn "materiel". The dog is a strong muscular animal, weighing several tens of kilograms. Her main weapons are her teeth and fangs. A dog is not a cat, it does not pull its claws. The typical behavior of a dog during an attack is a jump, overturning the enemy, followed by biting. Some try to cling to the throat, some inflict multiple bites, trying to tear out pieces of meat. This is about a trained dog. They are trained to dodge blows, very dodgy and agile.

The dog does not have many vulnerabilities, but they are. And if you know them, you can quickly neutralize any dog, especially using various "weapons".

The worst thing in a fight with a dog is fear of it and passive defense (falling down, covering your head with your hands, etc.) - in this case, you will definitely suffer and more than actively defending yourself.

So, what places on the dog's body are the most vulnerable. This is, first of all, the tip of the nose, the bridge of the nose, occipital part and a crown behind the ears, solar plexus, ribs, paw joints, coccyx. Vulnerable places also include eyes, nostrils (scent), mucous membranes, genitals. These vulnerabilities must be acted upon mechanically (with a fist, fingers, improvised objects (stones, sticks, branches, dust, dirt), pre-prepared weapons.

It should be borne in mind that trained dogs and dogs individual breeds(fighting) are accustomed to pain and it is very difficult to take them for pain control. Therefore, you should disable them simply mechanically - do not pretend that you are breaking your paw, but really break it. Do not press your knee on the dog's ribs, but jump with all your weight. Your goal is to KILL the dog, not drive it away or "punish". She has already crossed the threshold of what is permitted and must be destroyed. By at least, she will not stop and will attack even dead man(she doesn't know if he's dead or alive) so you really fight to the death. And not virtual.

Psychological weapon

Some psychologists argue that many people find it psychologically difficult to fight dogs. Just as most people experience disgust and a feeling of disgust if a spider or a cockroach falls on them and an instant desire to kill them (although in our area these are the most harmless insects, and spiders are generally useful), so in a fight between a dog and a man, a person does not know how to fight a dog. Therefore, the main model of his behavior is passive defense - to close, run away, reduce his losses to a minimum. The dog, on the other hand, has a complete and overwhelming moral superiority in such a battle and comes out of it without any losses at all and is the winner.

In order to defeat the dog morally, imagine that this is a small, vicious dwarf man with sharp teeth who will bite, who has done you much harm. But you must (and most importantly, have every chance) to kill him.

Morally, you must be prepared for the fact that, most likely, it will not do without bites. Some of the clothes will also be damaged. But the losses in any case will be less than you immediately surrender to the mercy of the winner. And if you are the winner, then the owner of the dog will start having problems. Feel free to assess your moral and physical damage.

Imagine the scene when you break her paws, ribs, choke her with your knee, tear her to pieces, her blood flows like a river, she squeals and tries to run away. Thus, you yourself will mentally prepare for the fight, and dogs - telepaths, will also "see" this picture of their bleak future. Behave like Tarzan, show absolute determination and readiness to fight immediately. Inject yourself with the adrenaline of the Winner. Moreover, it is necessary to shout it loudly and in an evil growling voice, "Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa! What will I do to you! How I have been waiting for this moment! Well, finally! Shout anything, but shout "scary".

Except psychological impact on the dog, these cries will attract others. And the owner of the dog does not smile at all to have so many witnesses. Therefore, he will make every effort to prevent conflict.

Another psychological weapon is your behavior. Dogs are trained to ATTACK a person and defend themselves against his response. Untrained dogs act instinctively, as if hunting. And on the hunt, it acts exactly like this - they overtake the prey, jump, knock it over backwards and tear or gnaw through the throat. Her nature taught this for millions of years.

Another model of behavior - the victim stops and begins to defend himself. Then the flock surrounds her with a ring, and those dogs that are from the back attack. In our case, there is no pack, and you are always face to face.

What follows from the analysis of the behavior of the dog during the attack? It is necessary to behave NON-STANDARD, not in the way she expects. In the very dangerous case- the dog is pulled on the person. Behave NOT LIKE A HUMAN, but like an unusual animal.

Never be passive by falling and covering yourself with your hands.

Should never run away - still don't run away, dog run 5 times faster than a human. The exception is the case when it is possible to be guaranteed to be out of the dog's reach. For example - quickly climb a branchy tree, climb a ladder, enter waist-deep water.

By the way, the dog in the water is very defenseless. You then stand on the ground, and she floats. It is enough to dodge at least once, grab her by the fur, fall on her and dive with her or duck so that her muzzle is in the water. It'll all be over in a minute. Simply put, if she rushes into the water after you, drowning the dog, if desired, is as easy as shelling pears.

If there is no opportunity to hide, then you should take up defense, or even attack it yourself. For example, run towards her, screaming terribly, taking off her jacket (coat), waving improvised items (umbrella, bag, briefcase). Then the dog turns from a hunter into a game, which is unfamiliar to him, he was not taught this. Other instincts begin to work - self-preservation. Even if the dog is not afraid and continues to run at you, do not stop. If she jumps, dodge and give her a good kick in the groin or under the tail, hit the back of the head with your fist from top to bottom. A miss during a jump is the strongest stress for a dog, which sharply reduces its self-esteem - it has already lost one round. The main thing is not to let her knock you down during the jump due to her kinetic energy. But if she doesn't give up after that active form attacks, the game goes into the endgame.

You need to continue inappropriate behavior that the dog does not expect. Immediately you need to take a stable pose and turn sideways to the dog. Bend your head down and cover your throat with your chin. If possible, take off your coat, jacket and use them to occupy the dog's mouth or throw it over his head, blind him. At the same time, you need to beat, beat, and beat on vulnerable points. If you managed to knock down a dog - a lying dog is not a fighter. Jump on it with your whole body and knee forward, on the chest, spine. If you manage to tilt the dog's head back, hit the base of the skull with your fist and break its spine.

If you not big man, and the dog is large enough, you can even get on one or two knees for stability (but only after the dog jumps). Thus, you will become more stable and take your legs out of the blow - the most unprotected part of the body.

An important role is played by the possibility of disruption of the optical connection between the owner and the dog. Without visual contact with her master, she feels much less confident. Therefore, if possible, drag her along to the bush, behind the trees, around the corner, etc. The dog immediately loses the incentive to continue the fight. The territory is certainly not hers, the owner is also not visible, you are not a game ... What to fight for? In most cases, she will try to get out of the fight.

Should be used in combat different kinds"weapons". As they say in England, it doesn't matter what you have. What matters is how effectively you use it. Now about the "weapon".

Chemical weapon.

Dogs have an unrivaled sense of smell. He is their weakest point. If you force her to smell SOMETHING, then her desire to fight disappears almost instantly and regardless of her desire.

Dogs are practically not affected by various nerve agents from "human" canisters. But an excellent effect is given by pepper or mustard gases. Therefore, purchase only such cartridges or cartridges for gas weapons. Apply gas weapon against dogs can be from any distance. A dog, getting into a cloud of such gas, becomes disoriented very quickly. And if you manage to send a jet into the nostrils - the war ends immediately. This creature immediately has other problems, more important than you.

During the war, SMERSH workers used a homemade mixture (the so-called Cayenne mixture) to neutralize dogs. It consists of a mixture of ground black pepper and tobacco in a ratio of 50/50. When buying tobacco, choose the smelliest one. Both pepper and tobacco are additionally ground to a dusty state (for example, with a coffee grinder). You can also add mustard powder. This "dust" perfectly sticks and settles on any moist mucous membrane - the nose, nostrils, mouth, eyes and causes an unbearable burning sensation, and with an increasing effect. And unlike gas, which escapes, dust is removed only mechanically - by washing. Those. dog neutralized for at least a few hours plus further treatment. And if she breathes it in enough to the point of burning respiratory tract, with contact with the bronchi and lungs, then a fatal outcome is also likely. And the end will be extremely painful.

Store this mixture in a plastic cylindrical cup. In the outer pocket. Moreover, the lid must be both tight and removed instantly and with one hand, for example, thumb. Vitamin bottles are perfect.

Practice snatching the vial from the upper breast pockets and dropping the cap. See drill and other weapons.

You can also make powder grenades. For this, a New Year cracker is taken. It is carefully disassembled from the side of the release of confetti. Instead of confetti, cayenne mixture is poured and the cracker is sealed. The cord is extended up to 30-40 centimeters. If you expect "contact", then the free end of the cord is tied in advance to a loop in your pocket, belt, etc. Then it will be possible to activate this mini-gun with one hand. He took out - sent - pulled in the direction of the enemy. There is a shot with the ejection of the mixture by 1-1.5 meters. It should be remembered that crackers have low reliability.

"Noise" weapon

Dogs, especially trained ones, are not afraid of the sound of gunshots. Yes, and untrained to scare the distracted loud sound difficult. Another thing is to shoot her right in the ear. My grandfather slaughtered wild boars this way. The pig was not fed for a day, then given liquid food. At that time, she was not interested in anything else. Grandfather calmly put the barrel of a gun with a blank cartridge into the pig's ear and fired. Death has always been instantaneous. From pain shock and cerebral hemorrhage.

On sale there are various buggers and devices for firing gas or noise cartridges. Having occupied the mouth of the dog with your left hand, insert the barrel into the ear and shoot. The dog is dead

In principle, large firecrackers can also be used, but not for noise, but by making gas grenades out of them. For this, a cayenne mixture is prepared, a small paper casing is glued around the firecracker, where the mixture is poured (about one teaspoon). The casing is sealed.

When a firecracker explodes, a suspension of pepper and tobacco, gunpowder is formed.

The only drawback is that firecrackers are not very reliable and are difficult to put into action unless special measures are taken.

You should use firecrackers with an incendiary head (strike on the box - threw it - after a few seconds an explosion, and not with a cord.

Electric weapons

These are, you guessed it, electrical dischargers. Since the dog has a thick coat and a thick undercoat, the discharger should be slightly modified if you plan to use it against dogs. It is necessary to increase the contact needles to 3-5 centimeters. Fortunately, most vicious dogs are short-haired and it is not difficult for the contacts of the spark gap to penetrate their fur. If you have a spark gap with firing contacts, shoot only for sure, at point-blank range. The main place of electric shock is the neck and chest.

"Fire" weapon

On sale there are signal cartridges of the "Torch" type. it special compound in a case resembling a small grenade. The principle of operation is like a cracker - "pull, baby, by the rope ..." After triggering, the cartridge throws out a torch of blinding flame 30-50 centimeters long within a minute. If you lengthen the cord up to 20-30 cm with a reliable cord, and the cartridge itself will be worn in an accessible place, then put it into action - half a second and with one hand. After jerking, the cartridge turns into a mini-flamethrower. And I do not know such an animal that would withstand the pressure of the flame for more than a second. It is worth using this weapon only if the dog has come into contact with you.

I want to note that this cartridge does not require air to burn - it burns even under water. Therefore, he is not afraid of either wind or rain. But, unfortunately, the cartridge is disposable. And its action cannot be stopped.

A gas lighter can also act as a flamethrower. Once I came across a Chinese lighter (defective), which gave a tongue of flame 20 centimeters long. Well, why not a flamethrower? You can easily set fire to the aggressor's face.

"Iron Tooth"

Remember Mowgli? His fight with Shere Khan? "The tale is a lie, but there is a hint in it, a lesson for good fellows" (this is already Pushkin). Quite a lot of household items have a dual purpose and can act as " iron tooth"- edged weapons. At the same time, the police cannot have any claims against you. Meanwhile, they can easily penetrate into dog neck.

First of all, these are:

• Pen. Let it not be a plastic Chinese tube, but a metal one, made of steel, with a pointed end.
• Comb. Let it be with a long thin pointed handle. A la stiletto.
• Screwdriver. Spatula or cross. Any with a rod length of 10 centimeters.
• Nail. Length 150-200 mm.

A fairly optimal weapon is ... a pestle from a mortar, for grinding. From faience or metal. It greatly enhances the punch, and if you hit from top to bottom (which is natural in a fight with a dog), a skull fracture, broken ribs or a fracture of the spine are almost guaranteed.

improvised items

It can be a stone, a stick, a piece of asphalt, foliage, dust, dirt. None of these items should be thrown. Especially if he is alone. Hold the stone in your fist - a blow to it will be much more painful than just a fist. With a stick, you can keep the dog at a distance, and upon contact, you can break the dog's spine with it or poke it in the eye, mouth, or groin. A handful of foliage can be put into the dog's mouth, into the muzzle. You will cause a little harm to her, but you will gain time, you will be able to take a more stable posture, take an advantageous position. Dust and dirt can clog eyes, nose, make her sneeze. Only it is necessary to apply them "at point-blank range", in contact with the dog's muzzle.

Of the items at hand that you have, there may be an umbrella, a bag, a bag, clothes ... You should not use an umbrella like a club, it is not effective. An umbrella works much better as a shield. Open and close it - the dog does not understand the essence of things. For her, even paper is an insurmountable barrier if she does not see the goal. And the suddenly changing geometric dimensions of the victim simply confuse her. Consider the Incas, Mayans and Aztecs. When they first saw a rider on a horse, they thought it was half animal, half human. And they were horrified when the rider dismounted - the animal was divided. The dog (any) is simply frightened if the dome of the umbrella suddenly swings open in front of it.

The bag can "occupy" the dog's mouth. If you beat her in the face, on the nose, the dog will reflexively seek to bite her. Let her grab the bag. When she grabs it, pull it towards you with all your might. The dog will try to keep it. Take the bag aside, divert attention and kick the dog. If possible, knock over the dog, fall on it with your whole body.

If you manage to take off your jacket or coat, use it to distract the dog like a shield. Try to throw a coat over the dog, blind him and make it difficult for him to move. If you succeeded, fall on her with all your weight. If it was not possible to remove the coat completely, try to free half the left sleeve. Use it as a "stand" to occupy the dog's mouth. The right, free hand can strike.

If there is no dog "at hand", train without it. If you are shy - at the dacha in an open field, in the forest. In the end, just practicing a strike is already a great thing. You also need to know how to hurt. If you are not training alone, the role of the dog can be played by a partner (alternately).

In any case, you must be mentally prepared for a fight with a dog. Many people simply become numb if the dog pounces on them and go into a deaf defense, which consists in dodging the dog and plaintive cries. They do not even think about active defense, let alone attack.

Remember, a trained person can kill a dog, or at least neutralize it by knockout, almost instantly. For example, with a counter punch to the nose, to the back of the head, to the bridge of the nose. He can take her under pain control with a simultaneous blow to the eyes with his fingers, a blow to the solar plexus, plug or tear out her nostrils with his fingers. A dog can take control of a person in rare cases, and then, if he is absolutely unprepared.

Therefore, you must be morally stronger than a dog, feel like a master of the situation. Dogs feel it too. Your ideology should be "I will do with you whatever I want, and you will only do with me what I allow you."

Effects

During a fight with a dog, in no case take care of "branded" clothes, things, etc. their cost is a mere trifle, compared with the cost quality treatment from bites. In addition, their cost, plus non-pecuniary damage, can be recovered through the court from the owner of the dog. It would be very stupid if you find yourself badly bitten due to the fact that you "cherished" your favorite jacket. You have ONE life and health, and you will buy new jeans or a jacket for yourself and 10 more times. And at the expense of the owner of the dog.

Any fact of a dog attacking a person (independently or at the instigation of the owner) is an emergency. In no case should such incidents be left without consequences. Even if the owner claims that it was you who teased his dog - the dog is in public place must be on a leash and muzzled. The maximum that she is allowed to do is to poke around at the one who teases her. Here in the owner's apartment, let her even walk on the ceiling and on his head. But not in a public place.

Even if someone's dog just barked at you - this is already a THREAT, and a reason to contact the police, and the court, a deputy, the SES, etc. The first 5 of your statements may not be noticed. But the water wears away the stone...

Moreover, if your path lies through a "dog playground" where you could potentially be attacked, write letters. And send them by registered order and with notification. In all instances, even up to the President of the Russian Federation. Those who create problems for other citizens should have problems, and not vice versa. And do not listen to the "protectors of animals" - in civilized Europe there are a lot of cities where it is simply FORBIDDEN to keep dogs at all, by law. Do you want a dog? - live in the village. Do you love a dog? - love! But the rest of her love is not required! Your dog is your problem. And try to make sure that no one gets in trouble because of your dog.

One of the greats said: "The more I get to know people, the more I love dogs." There is, of course, some truth to this. But he loves HIS dogs, not dogs in general. Yes, some people are bastards. But dogs are just animals, they don't obey the law, they obey only their instincts and reflexes. And therefore it is necessary to treat them like animals, and not "make an idol out of them." Even if they are very expensive in terms of money.

Often, owners are faced with the problem of cowardly dogs. Sometimes this problem is successfully solved by competent adaptation to stimuli, by working on behavior on your own or with an experienced instructor. But there are situations when fearfulness is not just a behavioral problem or the result of improper upbringing. It happens that the dog's cowardly behavior is just a character trait that cannot be corrected or the consequences psychological trauma received in early childhood. How to raise such a dog, this article will tell.

Causes of cowardly dogs

Sometimes this character trait is associated with improper upbringing and training. Sometimes these are consequences of education through the use of potent negative reinforcement. If this is the reason, you can try to rehabilitate the dog with the help of competent training and patient education. Of course, this will take more than one week, month or year, but if you patiently go towards your goal, you can achieve good result. It is better not to try to do the rehabilitation of the dog on your own, but immediately turn to experienced cynologist. If this is not possible, good option will read the literature of zoopsychologists, in which such a topic is discussed.

But there are times when the cowardice of dogs cannot be corrected. This may be a trait of character or the result of improper rearing and upbringing at an early puppy age.

What to do if the problem is not solved?

The owner of a shy dog ​​can sometimes be very difficult. It is not easy when a pet is afraid of cars, other dogs, people, bicycles, loud noises, etc. How to behave so as not to introduce yourself and the dog into a state of even greater despondency?

1. It must be remembered that shy dog will never behave like those dogs that you can meet on your street, in the yard, in the usual walking place, etc. Therefore, you can not compare your dog and other pets. This can lead to very negative consequences. It is important for a dog to feel that it is still the best and most courageous for its owner!
2. Don't assume that your dog will enjoy socializing with other dogs and people if it's under a lot of stress! If it is noticeable that the pet is uncomfortable in the company of his fellows, learn to spend time together. Let it be walking along quiet streets, alleys, playing with a dog in fetching an object. Instead of worrying about the shy nature of the dog, make sure that he feels joy and satisfaction from joint games with the owner.
3. Dressing is not an option. If many options have already been tried, trips to different instructors, self-training, but nothing helped, which means that the problem is in the character of the dog and this is unlikely to be changed somehow. Of course, this does not mean that such a pet does not need training. Commands can make life and daily behavior of the dog much easier, but if the problem is deep in the dog's psyche, this method most likely will not have any effect.
4. You need to learn how to avoid irritants that create stress for your dog. The calmer the pet's life goes, the better it will be for him and his owner.
5. If the dog cannot completely ignore the stimulus and not be stressed when it appears, even with increased and thorough training, you just need to try to make the dog's stay with him a little less annoying and if you can not completely eliminate the excitement, at least reduce its degree.

Before diagnosing your dog as shy, you need to make sure that the problem is not amenable to correction, and try to eradicate it with competent education and training. If the dog by nature has a shy character, the main thing to remember is that with little effort you can do life together with a pet more comfortable and happy!

Whether you like it or not, you come into contact with dogs in one way or another. Stray dogs, unless they are fed in your yard, are dangerous in two ways.

When they are rabid and rush at everything that moves, and when they stray into packs of more than a dozen dogs with a strong leader at the head.

Fortunately, these phenomena are quite public and do not exist in time. For better or for worse, sooner or later, both will be destroyed or scattered. But unfortunately, these are the most dangerous cases.

Even a single bite from a rabid dog or an attack by a pack of dogs is a very likely opportunity to quickly and painfully end one's life either in a clinic or directly at the site of the attack.

"Familiar" dogs. These are the dogs of your neighbors in the house, the entrance. Those. the ones you run into quite regularly in the yard and even the elevator.

"Unfamiliar" dogs. Those dogs that you encounter while walking in the park, jogging, and other situations. Perhaps you see them for the first and last time.

I introduced this division because it provides for different models of your behavior.

Dogs are pack animals, with a clear hierarchical pack structure. Leader and subordinates. Any disobedience is punished quickly and severely, sometimes by death.

Therefore, in relations with dogs, one should rely on the psychology of dogs - she always wants to take the place of the leader, if there is even the slightest chance to do so. Such is nature.

From this follow the following conclusions:

*Never fawn over a dog trying to buy her location with a caress. Do not believe this nonsense of trainers about "love for animals". You can force an animal to do what it has not done for the next 5 million years either by fear of punishment if you do not, or by the desire to get food (i.e., hunger).

Some exceptions are dolphins, but everything is different there. If you curry favor with a dog (even your own), she will immediately understand that she is the Owner. And it will be almost impossible to convince her otherwise.

* If the contact is one-time and you do not want to position yourself in relation to her, act like a creature from another world . Like a bird in a tree. Those. Demonstrate to the dog that your life paths do not intersect with it. In other words - do not pay any attention to it (or at least pretend to).

Do not look into her eyes, do not turn around in her direction (if the dog shows interest in you from afar, observe with peripheral vision). She is an empty place, and you are busy with your own affairs. Then she will not consider that you are encroaching on her territory, her place in the pack, you do not want to take away her prey.

General rules

Dogs are excellent telepaths. They feel your mood and state well, the presence of adrenaline in your blood. But adrenaline is different. There is an adrenaline rush of fear - you are a ready victim, you are afraid of a dog, and you are already ready to fix it. And there is the adrenaline of victory, the one that is present in the blood of the winner, the one that gives a feeling of delight.

Don't be afraid of dogs. Dogs are trained on a person (there are an insignificant number of them among those with whom you contact) and Untrained. To train a dog for a person is a very expensive pleasure and either completely frostbitten owners of fighting dogs or special services go for it.

The second, however, you should not be afraid. If it comes to that, then this dog's attack is peanuts compared to your further problems. In addition, they are trained for detention, and not for extermination and gnawing to death.

Untrained dogs do not have the skills to attack a person. Serious injuries are possible only by accident - the dog bit your leg - you fell, hit your head on the asphalt. Usually everything ends with bites of the legs, arms, occasionally torso, face.

People can also be prepared and unprepared for defense against dogs. The worst option is an attack by a dog trained on a person on an unprepared person or child. The likelihood of a fatal outcome for a person is very high. The best option for a person is a trained person and an untrained dog. The chance of death for a dog is almost 100%.

If both "contactees" are unprepared, then, as a rule, it does not come to a fight. The bite will most likely be one-time and accidental. Most likely, everything will end with barking and screaming.

In a conflict between a trained dog and a trained person, the person almost always wins, although often with heavy losses.

Therefore, it is best to always be prepared for a fight with a dog. Even basic training greatly increases your chances of getting out of the battle without serious damage to your body, not to mention survival. As they say, be prepared. If you want peace, prepare for war.

The best war is the one that hasn't started

An attack by a dog on a person (if it is not a special service dog and not on the orders of the owner), is still a rare phenomenon. In 99% of cases, everything ends with angry barking and mutual threats. But if you don't want to win this lottery, don't buy lottery tickets.

Never tease dogs, do not shout, do not swing at her, do not provoke her to aggression. It is also impossible to sneak up, suddenly and loudly turn to its owner, behave aggressively, make sudden movements.

Don't try to give your dog commands. Thus, you claim the place of the Master, whom she protects. Any of these actions for a dog means an attack on her, the owner, the territory. And, of course, it will cause a defensive response.

Do not expect to intimidate the dog, especially if she is with the owner. Only a downtrodden single stray dog ​​can be intimidated. She has certainly suffered a lot from people and she herself does not want to come into contact with them once again.

It is extremely difficult to intimidate a dog "with the owner", his bread, as a watchman and security guard, he will work out to the end. It's easier to kill him or incapacitate him in some other way than to intimidate him.

Therefore, the best way to avoid conflict is not to provoke it yourself.

stray dogs

If you see that the flock has spread out in the middle of the road, it is better to cross calmly and ahead of time to the other side. No need to try to take the place of the leader of this pack. Do not tempt fate and do not drag lottery tickets. Since the flock is lying, and not prowling, it means that it is not on the hunt.

If this is not possible and it is impossible to disperse, two behaviors are possible. One of them is to demonstrate complete indifference to them. However, a completely unmotivated attack on their part is possible here. Little will seem to them. Walking through a pack of dogs is an unpleasant pleasure.

Perhaps this is the only way when there is a reason to start a war first. Even on the approach, you should shout at the dogs in a loud and low voice, reminiscent of a growl. A dog is an animal, although it distinguishes articulate speech, it reacts to intonation. If you start with threats ("growls"), then you are ready for battle. And if she has nothing to defend here, she (they) will most likely retreat even after a scream.

You should defiantly show the dogs that you are armed - pick up (or pretend to pick up) a stick, branch, stone from the ground. Dogs certainly have unpleasant experiences with these objects and do not want to relapse. If the distance allows, you can even throw a stone in the direction of the pack, demonstrating the seriousness of your intentions.

familiar dogs

The best thing to do is really get to know them. You will have to live with them, as they say, i.e. collide constantly. Those. talk to the owner in a calm voice about the weather, his car, ask for advice about the dog (even if you hate this flea bag). Say a few compliments towards the owner and herself. In general, make sure that she smells you, remembers you and the timbre of your voice. Moreover, the friendly atmosphere of the first acquaintance is important.

"The owner's friend is my friend (although not the owner)." Such a confrontation will greatly reduce the likelihood of conflict between you and the dog. But it will never reduce it to zero, sometimes dogs even attack their own owners, so you still need to be on the alert and feel the mood of the dog.

unfamiliar dogs

This contingent is the most dangerous, since it is “with the owner”, “on duty”, can be trained, etc. Some "dog lovers" - moral freaks, even like that everyone around is afraid of his dog.

It is best not to provoke conflict here. See general guidelines. Behave independently, do not encroach on their interests, do not make claims. Even if the conflict does occur, the truth will be on your side, you were not the initiator, which almost guarantees victory in the trial.

If war cannot be avoided

Learn "materiel". The dog is a strong muscular animal, weighing several tens of kilograms. Her main weapons are her teeth and fangs. A dog is not a cat, it does not pull its claws.

The typical behavior of a dog during an attack is a jump, overturning the enemy, followed by biting. Some try to cling to the throat, some inflict multiple bites, trying to tear out pieces of meat.

This is about a trained dog. They are trained to dodge blows, very dodgy and agile.

The dog does not have many vulnerabilities, but they are. And if you know them, you can quickly neutralize any dog, especially using various "weapons".

Worst thing about a dog fight- this is fear of it and passive defense (falling down, covering your head with your hands, etc.) - in this case, you will definitely suffer and more than actively defending yourself.

So, what are the places on the dog's body the most vulnerable. First of all, this is the tip of the nose, the bridge of the nose, the back of the head and the crown behind the ears, the solar plexus, the ribs, the joints of the paws, the coccyx. Vulnerable places also include eyes, nostrils (scent), mucous membranes, genitals.

These vulnerabilities must be acted upon mechanically (with a fist, fingers, improvised objects (stones, sticks, branches, dust, dirt), pre-prepared weapons.

It should be borne in mind that trained dogs and dogs of certain breeds (fighting) are accustomed to pain and it is very difficult to take them for pain control. Therefore, you should disable them simply mechanically - do not pretend that you are breaking your paw, but really break it. Do not press your knee on the dog's ribs, but jump with all your weight.

Your goal is to KILL the dog rather than drive her away or "punish". She has already crossed the threshold of what is permitted and must be destroyed. At least she won't stop and will even attack a dead person (she doesn't know if he's dead or alive), so you really fight to the death. And not virtual.

Psychological weapon

Some psychologists argue that many people find it psychologically difficult to fight dogs. Just as most people experience disgust and a feeling of disgust if a spider or a cockroach falls on them and an instant desire to kill them (although in our area these are the most harmless insects, and spiders are generally useful), so in a fight between a dog and a man, a person does not know how to fight a dog.

Therefore, the main model of his behavior is passive defense - to close, run away, reduce his losses to a minimum. The dog, on the other hand, has a complete and overwhelming moral superiority in such a battle and comes out of it without any losses at all and is the winner.

In order to defeat the dog morally, imagine that this is a small, vicious dwarf man with sharp teeth who will bite, who has done you a lot of harm. But you must (and most importantly, have every chance) to kill him.

Morally, you should be prepared for the fact that, most likely, it will not do without bites. Some of the clothes will also be damaged. But the losses in any case will be less than you immediately surrender to the mercy of the winner. And if you are the winner, then the owner of the dog will start having problems. Feel free to assess your moral and physical damage.

Imagine the scene when you break her paws, ribs, choke her with your knee, tear her to pieces, her blood flows like a river, she squeals and tries to run away. Thus, you yourself will mentally prepare for the fight, and dogs - telepaths, will also "see" this picture of their bleak future.

Behave like Tarzan, show absolute determination and readiness to fight immediately. Inject yourself with the adrenaline of the Winner. Moreover, it is necessary to shout it loudly and in an evil growling voice, "Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa! What will I do to you! How I have been waiting for this moment! Well, finally! Shout anything, but shout "scary".

In addition to the psychological impact on the dog, these cries will attract others. And the owner of the dog does not smile at all to have so many witnesses. Therefore, he will make every effort to prevent conflict.

Another psychological weapon is your behavior. Dogs are trained to ATTACK a person and defend themselves against his response. Untrained dogs act instinctively, as if hunting. And on the hunt, it acts exactly like this - they overtake the prey, jump, knock it over backwards and tear or gnaw through the throat. Her nature taught this for millions of years.

Another model of behavior - the victim stops and begins to defend himself. Then the flock surrounds it with a ring and those dogs that are from the back attack. In our case, there is no pack, and you are always face to face.

What follows from the analysis of the behavior of the dog during the attack? Gotta behave NON-STANDARD not in the way she expects. In the most dangerous case, a dog is dragged onto a person. Behave NOT LIKE A HUMAN, but like an unusual animal.

Never be passive by falling and covering yourself with your hands.

Should never run away- don't run away anyway, a dog runs 5 times faster than a human. The exception is the case when it is possible to be guaranteed to be out of the dog's reach. For example - quickly climb a branchy tree, climb a ladder, enter waist-deep water.

By the way, the dog in the water is very defenseless. You then stand on the ground, and she floats. It is enough to dodge at least once, grab her by the fur, fall on her and dive with her or duck so that her muzzle is in the water. It'll all be over in a minute. Simply put, if she rushes into the water after you, drowning the dog, if desired, is as easy as shelling pears.

If there is no opportunity to hide, then you should take up defense, or even attack it yourself. For example, run towards her, screaming terribly, taking off her jacket (coat), waving improvised items (umbrella, bag, briefcase).

Then the dog turns from a hunter into a game, which is unfamiliar to him, he was not taught this. Other instincts begin to work - self-preservation. Even if the dog is not afraid and continues to run at you, do not stop.

If she jumps, dodge and give her a good kick in the groin or under the tail, hit the back of the head with your fist from top to bottom. A miss during a jump is the strongest stress for a dog, which sharply reduces its self-esteem - it has already lost one round. The main thing is not to let her knock you down during the jump due to her kinetic energy. But if after that it does not give up the active form of attack, the game goes into an endgame.

You need to continue inappropriate behavior that the dog does not expect.

Immediately you need to take a stable pose and turn sideways to the dog. Bend your head down and cover your throat with your chin. If possible, take off your coat, jacket and use them to occupy the dog's mouth or throw it over his head, blind him. At the same time, you need to hit, hit, and hit on vulnerable points. If you managed to knock down a dog - a lying dog is not a fighter. Jump on it with your whole body and knee forward, on the chest, spine.

If you manage to tilt the dog's head back, hit the base of the skull with your fist and break its spine.

If you are not a large person and the dog is large enough, you can even get on one or two knees for stability (but only after the dog jumps). Thus, you will become more stable and take your legs out of the blow - the most unprotected part of the body.

An important role is played by the possibility of disruption of the optical connection between the owner and the dog. Without visual contact with her master, she feels much less confident. Therefore, if possible, drag her along to the bush, behind the trees, around the corner, etc. The dog immediately loses the incentive to continue the fight. The territory is certainly not hers, the owner is also not visible, you are not a game ... What to fight for? In most cases, she will try to get out of the fight.

In battle, various types of "weapons" should be used. As they say in England, it doesn't matter what you have. What matters is how effectively you use it. Now about the "weapon".

Chemical weapon. Dogs have an unrivaled sense of smell. He is their weakest point. If you force her to smell SOMETHING, then her desire to fight disappears almost instantly and regardless of her desire.

Practically for dogs. various nerve agents from spray cans do not work"for people". But an excellent effect is given by pepper or mustard gases. Therefore, purchase only such cartridges or cartridges for gas weapons. You can use gas weapons against dogs from any distance. A dog, getting into a cloud of such gas, becomes disoriented very quickly. And if you manage to send a jet into the nostrils - the war ends immediately. This creature immediately has other problems, more important than you.

During the war, SMERSH workers used homemade mixture (called cayenne mixture) to neutralize dogs. It consists of a mixture of ground black pepper and tobacco in a ratio of 50/50. When buying tobacco, choose the smelliest one. Both pepper and tobacco are additionally ground to a dusty state (for example, with a coffee grinder). You can also add mustard powder.

This "dust" perfectly sticks and settles on any moist mucous membrane - the nose, nostrils, mouth, eyes and causes an unbearable burning sensation, and with an increasing effect.

And unlike gas, which escapes, dust is removed only mechanically - by washing. Those. the dog is neutralized for at least a few hours plus further treatment. And if she inhales enough of it, to the state of a burn of the respiratory tract, with contact with the bronchi and lungs, then a fatal outcome is also likely. And the end will be extremely painful.

Store this mixture in a plastic cylindrical cup. In the outer pocket. Moreover, the lid should be both tight and removed instantly and with one hand, for example, with your thumb. Vitamin bottles are perfect.

Practice snatching the vial from the upper breast pockets and dropping the cap.

"Noise" weapon

Dogs, especially trained ones, are not afraid of the sound of gunshots. Yes, and it is difficult to scare the untrained with an abstract loud sound. Another thing is to shoot her right in the ear.

My grandfather slaughtered wild boars this way. The pig was not fed for a day, then given liquid food. At that time, she was not interested in anything else. Grandfather calmly put the barrel of a gun with a blank cartridge into the pig's ear and fired. Death has always been instantaneous. From pain shock and hemorrhage in the brain.

On sale there are various buggers and devices for firing gas or noise cartridges. Having occupied the mouth of the dog with your left hand, insert the barrel into the ear and shoot. The dog is dead

In principle, large firecrackers can also be used, but not for noise, but by making gas grenades out of them. For this, a cayenne mixture is prepared, a small paper casing is glued around the firecracker, where the mixture is poured (about one teaspoon). The casing is sealed.

When a firecracker explodes, a suspension of pepper and tobacco, gunpowder is formed.

The only drawback is that firecrackers are not very reliable and are difficult to put into action unless special measures are taken.

You should use firecrackers with an incendiary head (strike on the box - threw it - after a few seconds an explosion, and not with a cord.

Electric weapons

These are, you guessed it, electrical dischargers. Since the dog has a thick coat and a thick undercoat, the discharger should be slightly modified if you plan to use it against dogs. It is necessary to increase the contact needles to 3-5 centimeters.

Fortunately, most vicious dogs are short-haired and it is not difficult for the contacts of the spark gap to penetrate their fur. If you have a spark gap with firing contacts, shoot only for sure, at point-blank range. The main place of electric shock is the neck and chest.

"Iron Tooth"

Remember Mowgli? His fight with Shere Khan? "The tale is a lie, but there is a hint in it, a lesson for good fellows" (this is already Pushkin). Quite a lot of household items have a dual purpose and can act as an "iron tooth" - edged weapons. At the same time, the police cannot have any claims against you. Meanwhile, they will easily penetrate the dog's neck,

* Comb. Let it be with a long thin pointed handle. A la stiletto.

* Screwdriver. Spatula or cross. Any with a rod length of 10 centimeters.

* Nail. Length 150-200 mm

A fairly optimal weapon is ... a pestle from a mortar, for grinding. From faience or metal. It greatly enhances the punch, and if you hit from top to bottom (which is natural in a fight with a dog), a skull fracture, broken ribs or a fracture of the spine are almost guaranteed

improvised items

It can be a stone, a stick, a piece of asphalt, foliage, dust, dirt. None of the items should be thrown. Especially if he is alone.

Hold the stone in your fist - a blow to it will be much more painful than just a fist. With a stick, you can keep the dog at a distance, and upon contact, you can break the dog's spine with it or poke it in the eye, mouth, or groin.

A handful of foliage can be put into the dog's mouth, into the muzzle. You will cause a little harm to her, but you will gain time, you will be able to take a more stable posture, take an advantageous position.

Dust and dirt can clog eyes, nose, make her sneeze. Only it is necessary to apply them "at point-blank range", in contact with the dog's muzzle.

Of the improvised items you have with you, there may be an umbrella, a bag, a bag, clothes ...

You should not act with an umbrella like a club, it is not effective. An umbrella works much better as a shield. Open and close it - the dog does not understand the essence of things. For her, even paper is an insurmountable barrier if she does not see the goal. And the suddenly changing geometric dimensions of the victim simply confuse her.

Consider the Incas, Mayans and Aztecs. When they first saw a rider on a horse, they thought it was half animal, half human. And they were horrified when the rider dismounted - the animal was divided. The dog (any) is simply frightened if the dome of the umbrella suddenly swings open in front of it.

The bag can "occupy" the dog's mouth. If you beat her in the face, on the nose, the dog will reflexively seek to bite her. Let her grab the bag. When she grabs it, pull it towards you with all your might. The dog will try to keep it. Take the bag aside, divert attention and kick the dog. If possible, knock over the dog, fall on it with your whole body.

If you manage to take off your jacket or coat, use it to distract the dog like a shield. Try to throw a coat over the dog, blind him and make it difficult for him to move. If you succeeded, fall on her with all your weight. If it was not possible to remove the coat completely, try to free half the left sleeve. Use it as a "stand" to occupy the dog's mouth. The right, free hand can strike.

If there is no dog "at hand", train without it. If you are shy - at the dacha in an open field, in the forest. In the end, just practicing a strike is already a great thing. You also need to know how to hurt. If you are not training alone, the role of the dog can be played by a partner (alternately).

In any case, you must be mentally prepared for a fight with a dog. Many people simply become numb if the dog pounces on them and go into a deaf defense, which consists in dodging the dog and plaintive cries. They do not even think about active defense, let alone attack.

Remember, a trained person can kill a dog, or at least neutralize it by knockout, almost instantly. For example, a counter punch to the nose, to the back of the head, to the bridge of the nose. He can take her under pain control with a simultaneous blow to the eyes with his fingers, a blow to the solar plexus, plug or tear out her nostrils with his fingers. A dog can take control of a person in rare cases, and then if he is absolutely unprepared.

Therefore, you must be morally stronger than the dog, feel like the master of the situation. Dogs feel it too. Your ideology should be "I will do with you whatever I want, and you will only do with me what I allow you."

Effects

During a fight with a dog, in no case take care of "branded" clothes, things, etc. their cost is a mere trifle compared to the cost of quality treatment for bites.

In addition, their cost, plus non-pecuniary damage, can be recovered through the court from the owner of the dog. It would be very stupid if you find yourself badly bitten due to the fact that you "cherished" your favorite jacket. You have ONE life and health, and you will buy new jeans or a jacket for yourself and 10 more times. And at the expense of the owner of the dog.

Any fact of a dog attacking a person (independently or at the instigation of the owner) is an emergency. In no case should such incidents be left without consequences. Even if the owner claims that it was you who teased his dog, the dog in a public place must be on a leash and muzzled.

The maximum that she is allowed to do is to poke around at the one who teases her. Here in the owner's apartment, let her even walk on the ceiling and on his head. But not in a public place.

Even if someone's dog just barked at you - this is already a THREAT, and a reason to contact the police, and the court, a deputy, the SES, etc. The first 5 of your statements may not be noticed. But the water wears away the stone...

Moreover, if your path lies through a "dog playground" where you could potentially be attacked, write letters. And send out registered and with notification. In all instances, even up to the President of the Russian Federation. Those who create problems for other citizens should have problems, and not vice versa.