How to make additional outlets in the kitchen. Rules for the location of outlets in the kitchen. Requirements for wiring and sockets

Installation of electrical wiring is a laborious procedure that must be done almost in the first place, since you will have to cut and drill walls. For this reason, you must immediately imagine where to place the sockets in the kitchen and how many will be needed. At the same time, one must be guided by the not available number of electrical appliances, but also think a little ahead - maybe there are some things that I would like to buy and they will appear within a few years.

Features of kitchen sockets

Even with careful handling of kitchen appliances, water often splashes or spills, plus, wet cleaning is done much more often in the kitchen. Modern devices themselves have a fairly high protection against moisture ingress, but still installing outlets in the kitchen involves the use of waterproof models, at least those that will stand near the dishwasher or not far from the water supply.

The kitchen is the place where the most powerful electrical appliances are collected, so not only the layout of the outlets in the kitchen, but also the total power of the devices should be carefully considered. This will allow you to calculate the exact number of outlets that can be “put on one wire and how many such groups will have to be made for the safe use of all devices. Some sockets needed in the kitchen are generally connected to one specific appliance. For example, this is necessary when installing ovens, some models of which consume more than 5 kW.

When buying sockets, you should not be greedy and choose inexpensive “weak” 10 Amp models, especially since the characteristics of most devices on the market are already 16 Amperes.

Outlet height requirements

location of outlets in the kitchen (click to enlarge)

From the old recommendations and rules on how to properly install electrical wiring, there are some myths that are “out of habit” adhered to when the height of the outlets in the kitchen is selected. These are the standards of the USSR, according to which the installation height of sockets was prescribed strictly 90 cm from the floor. The same goes for the fashionable at one time trend to place them at about 30 cm - everyone did it, but no one knew why.

In fact, in the PUE, there are only two direct prohibitions regarding the location of sockets and switches - installation is prohibited closer than 50 cm from the gas pipe and 60 cm from the sink. There are a few more restrictions, but they apply to public buildings and child care facilities. In a private house, complete freedom is provided, so that all sockets for the kitchen can be installed where it is convenient.

Where to begin

To decide how to properly position the sockets in the kitchen, first of all, a room plan is drawn up, which will show the location of the furniture and all electrical appliances. Here it would be useful to consult with the person who will be in charge of all this economy. There are enough trifles in this matter, for example, it is desirable that the layout of sockets in the kitchen take into account whether he is left-handed or right-handed, so that later he does not get confused in the wires from the mixer or blender.

layout of sockets for electrical appliances (click to enlarge)

When the plan for arranging furniture and appliances is ready, now you can start placing sockets in the kitchen, given that on most devices the wire for connection is rarely longer than one meter. If the total power of the two devices does not exceed 3.5 kW, then you should think about how to install a double outlet. It is also suitable for permanently installed devices that do not turn on at the same time, but it is better to make a calculation with a margin. If now it is difficult to imagine how a dishwasher and an oven can be turned on together, then it is not known what habits will appear later.

What is included in the network constantly

Everyone has their own preferences, but the main list of kitchen appliances (and those that will be included there separately) will be as follows:

As a result, at least 10 electrical appliances will be constantly connected to the network. Depending on the location and power, some of them can be equipped with double sockets. In any case, when counting how many outlets should be in the kitchen, you must also take into account the devices that will turn on from time to time.

What will be included separately

When all the devices necessary in the kitchen are identified (which will be constantly connected to the network), then you need to imagine what other devices they will use in it. First of all, it will be necessary to connect such equipment as a blender, mixer, coffee grinder, meat grinder, food processor and the like. Just for such devices, it is necessary to consider which side of them to install the outlet and where to place it at all - near the table or above the countertop.

You also need to remember that the kitchen is a place where it is often cleaned - it does not hurt to think about where to place the sockets so that the power cord of the vacuum cleaner does not throw everything off the table or countertop. Alternatively, you can make a double outlet for the refrigerator and, if necessary, connect a vacuum cleaner to it.

Speaking simply from the standpoint of common sense, you need to install sockets right on the kitchen apron and always near the dining table. Connections of too powerful devices are not foreseen here, so you can install sockets in blocks - from two to four doubles in each of these places.

In general, there is a simple rule that allows you to calculate how many sockets you need in the kitchen - you need to calculate how many appliances will be used in any case and add 25% to this amount in reserve.

Retractable and swivel sockets

Very nice looking and easy to use - easy to get and easy to hide when not needed. They are like a computer network filter that is hidden in a tube. The main mechanism is built into the surface of the tabletop, and if you need to turn on something, you just need to press the button and there is already a place to connect the plug.

In fact, it is worth thinking about the advisability of installing such devices, because they can have no less disadvantages than advantages:

  • It is necessary to clearly consider how to arrange sockets in the kitchen - such models take up space in cabinets - the tube itself needs to be installed somewhere and it is not a fact that in the future this space taken from the cabinet will not be needed.
  • The wires to the base of the device will again need to be led inside the cabinets, which complicates a) installation, b) moving these cabinets if necessary.
  • The more complex the design, the more likely it is to break - in order not to worry about this, you need to choose a very high-quality built-in socket block, the cost of which will be an order of magnitude higher than the standard one.
  • Resilience and bad habits. When the device is raised above the tabletop in the open form, its stability is reduced, plus, the installed tube can stagger. To this we must also add the ineradicable habit of pulling the plug from the socket by the cord. Even if you hold the base when removing the plug, the entire block will still be loosened, because high-quality sockets have tight spring-loaded contacts, thanks to which they conduct electric current well.
  • In the event of a breakdown, it can be problematic to find and install a new device.

Of course, with the purchase of a high-quality lifting socket and proper care for it, it will last no less than usual. But if at least one of the above points makes you think, then the more correct decision is to make the sockets in the kitchen standard.

Placement of outlets in the kitchen from the point of view of the designer (video)

General conclusions

The installation of kitchen sockets requires additional calculations and the availability of a ready-made floor plan, which indicates where at least the main appliances and furniture will be located. This will tell you how to make the correct placement of the socket blocks, and the estimated power of the devices will tell you which of them you need to pull a separate wire, and which can be put on one line.

The placement of sockets is practically unlimited - you cannot place them closer than half a meter from the gas pipe and 60 centimeters from the sink. For safety reasons, do not place sockets lower than 15 cm from the floor surface.

In general, almost unlimited freedom of action is provided in the kitchen in this matter, if the wiring is calculated correctly.

A modern housewife in the kitchen has many helpers powered by the mains. They simplify her work, making the cooking process faster and more comfortable. But in order to achieve maximum convenience when using household appliances, it is necessary to choose the correct location of outlets in the kitchen. In addition, your safety also depends on it.

Damage to the power cords of electrical appliances during operation can not only lead to electric shock, but also to fire. Therefore, the choice of placement of outlets in the kitchen should be taken seriously.

Kitchen layout before renovation

The need to make sockets in the kitchen more convenient arises when renovating a kitchen space associated with a change in its design. At the same time, new furniture, a kitchen set are being installed. And new electrical appliances are being added: washing machines, ovens and hobs.

It is necessary to solve the problem of how to properly position the sockets in the kitchen while there is still nothing in the room but bare walls. The most optimal and safest way to lay cables in the kitchen is to hide them inside the walls. Therefore, it is necessary to make strobes, holes, lay and plaster cables before installing tiles or wallpapering. Therefore, you first need to find out where to place the sockets.

It is assumed that all the necessary furniture is selected and its overall dimensions are known. You will also need to mark the final floor level on the wall, on which the height of the installation of sockets depends.

Using the available data, life-size contours of the furniture to be installed are drawn on the wall. This is done as clearly as possible, with a note of the location of the cabinet doors, the direction of their opening and the dimensions in depth. Then the desired placement of all household electrical appliances is marked:

  • fridge;
  • electric oven;
  • hob;
  • Dishwasher;
  • hood;
  • microwave;
  • electric kettle;
  • multicooker;
  • TV.

Do not forget to provide a special socket for indoor installation for the TV to connect the input TV signal. And lay a cable to it in the wall.

Determining the number of outlets

Knowing the location of work and dining tables, you need to provide sockets for small household appliances near them: mixers, blenders, electric meat grinders, juicers. These devices are usually stored in a cabinet and used as needed. There you can also connect chargers for mobile phones and other equipment. If necessary, install a separate outlet for connecting a vacuum cleaner in a place convenient for cleaning.

There are devices that require a personal connection:

  • washing machine;
  • Dishwasher;
  • electric stove from 5 kW and above;
  • fridge;
  • hood.

A separate power line is laid to them, and it protects the circuit breaker installed in the switchboard only for this line. Nothing else can be connected to these lines. If you do not use the washing machine and dishwasher at the same time, you can combine them. But where is the guarantee that such a need will not arise in the future?

The rest of the outlets are combined into one or more groups, powered by other automata of the apartment switchboard.

If the total load current of nearby electrical appliances does not exceed 16 A, then a double socket can be used to connect them. This saves the amount of cable for laying. But keep in mind that a single outlet can eventually be changed to a double one. Therefore, decide immediately whether it is worth using budget options.

As you plan, mark on the wall the places you want to connect the equipment. But this layout of outlets in the kitchen is still a draft.

forbidden places

Before placing sockets in the kitchen, you need to mark the places where they should not be for safety reasons. The main condition for the operation of electrical appliances is the ability to quickly disconnect them from the network. Therefore, all connection points must be accessible. It is allowed to install them below the level of countertops, so as not to spoil the design and not to make cutouts in the surfaces for the passage of power cords. And the plug must also pass through the cutout. The presence of a gap between the countertop and the wall is undesirable: small objects will surely fall into it. But with this installation, in case of an urgent need to immediately pull out the power cord, you still need to get to its plug. Think in advance - how to make it more accessible without spoiling the design.

You can not hide sockets behind the cases of built-in appliances, as well as inside cabinets. If you want to install it behind a cabinet or cabinet, a hole is cut in the back wall. But you can not place sockets behind cabinets that have drawers with closers or sliding systems. If this cannot be avoided, then the installation is carried out at a height limited by the length of the furniture legs on which the cabinet stands. But at the same time, the distance from the floor should not be less than 30 centimeters. For built-in appliances, it is better to place sockets on the side of it.

It is also impossible to place sockets above the electric stove and hob. Warm air from them will "dry" the insulation of both the power cord and the power cable. Sooner or later it will become brittle and crumble.

Sockets are installed at a safe distance from objects:

Installation of sockets above and below the sink is prohibited.

Now, having determined all the forbidden zones for sockets in the kitchen, we proceed to their exact arrangement.

The distance to the electrical appliance to be connected should be as short as possible. The maximum distance is limited by the length of the power cord, but it must not be taut when connected. When the sockets are located on the same wall, they are installed on the same line.

The distance from the outlet to the hood housing is not standardized. It is better to place them closer to each other, but the socket should be at least 10-15 cm from the ceiling. There you can also install sockets for connecting fixtures built into the kitchen furniture.

Sockets for connecting a washing machine, a refrigerator are not placed behind them. Also, do not place them between the body of the household appliance and the wall adjacent to it on the side. Install the outlet on the right or left next to the electrical appliance, while the power cord, hidden on the floor behind its back wall, will not be conspicuous.

Gates and junction boxes and cables

Now that the layout of the outlets is completely ready, you need to draw the location of the strobes between them. Cables will be laid in them. The gates are located strictly parallel or perpendicular to the floor. You can’t place them diagonally, otherwise it will be impossible to determine later where you can drill a hole without hitting the cable.

The bathroom is usually located next to the kitchen. Please note that passing cables through the bathroom is prohibited. Choose a different path.

With consumers who have a separate power supply, everything is clear: they will get straight to the switchboard along the strobe. But for sockets combined into groups, laying cables to the shield from each individually is not advisable. To combine them, one or more (according to the number of groups) junction boxes are installed.

They also need to be installed correctly. The junction box should be located as close as possible to its socket group. So less cable will be spent. And most importantly, it must be accessible for maintenance. You can't wall it up forever.

But here design comes into its own: the box should not be conspicuous. You can take it out of the kitchen into the corridor, where it will be covered with wallpaper. And you can drape it by drowning it in the wall and closing it with a plastic cover for the ventilation hatch.

Use only three-core cables with a cross section of at least 2.5 mm 2 for installation.

Now let's go ahead: we grind, we make holes for sockets, we put mounting, junction boxes, we lay and cover the cables. And we continue to renovate the kitchen. You need to install sockets, having previously connected cables to them, at the very end - before arranging furniture.

Choice of sockets

First of all, a design is chosen that matches the overall style of the kitchen. The manufacturer can decide precisely from these considerations: perhaps you will find only one option for the desired color and shape.

For the kitchen, choose sockets with a rated current of 16 A. Ten-ampere ones are not recommended there.

For household appliances that have a grounding contact on the plug (and there are most of them in the kitchen), use the appropriate products, commonly called "euro". The earthing contact is connected to the corresponding core cable with the protective earth bus (PE). If your shield does not have it, do not connect this core. We will first have to bring the shield in line with the requirements of the current PUE.

If you are afraid that drops of water will fall on the sockets during operation, use waterproof products with a degree of protection of IP44 or higher. This marking is applied to the case, while it itself is equipped with a cover that closes the inlet in the absence of a plug.

Be sure to think about the children. The sockets available for them are better to install a special design. When the fork is removed from them, the holes for it are closed with spring-loaded shutters. You can open them only at the same time, the child will not be able to do this and will not gain access inside. Ordinary plugs, installed manually, modern children have already learned to pick out.

Comfort in the kitchen is made up of many details. This is not only the availability of the necessary utensils, comfortable furniture, household appliances, but also properly located sockets. They play an important role, because most of the devices used by housewives are powered by the mains. Consider how sockets should be located in the kitchen, how to install and connect them correctly.

Classification system

There are four types of kitchen sockets:

  1. Corner. The main advantage of corner sockets is the ability to place them in any convenient place. This is the junction of the walls, the space under the wall cabinet. There are single and modular, consisting of two or three.
  2. Retractable. A great alternative to the inconvenient extension cord. Outwardly, they are a retractable unit installed in a countertop or cabinets, where it is protected from splashes and dust. Used to connect several electrical devices at once.
  3. Hidden. These devices can be built into the countertop. By design, they are several connected sockets. Often have USB-connectors for charging mobile phones, tablets.
  4. Overhead. Installation of surface-mounted outlets is simple. They are used only with open wiring equipment.

Also, these products differ in appearance, case material, and other characteristics.

Optimal quantity

How many outlets should be in the kitchen? Simple calculations will help answer the question. It is necessary to calculate the number of household electrical appliances used and add another 25% to the resulting number.

The list should include devices to connect:

  • hoods;
  • stoves (in the event that it is equipped with electric ignition, an electric oven or an induction surface);
  • refrigerator, TV, other large appliances;
  • built-in appliances, microwave, kettle, blender and others.

To this list, you need to add a few devices as a margin. You need to do this even at the wiring stage, because then adding new points will be problematic.

How to calculate power

To distribute power, it is necessary to determine how many units and what household appliances will be in the kitchen. After that, find out the power of each device and the features of its connection.

Approximate data on the power of conventional kitchen appliances are shown in the table:

More modern models of sockets can withstand a power of 3500 watts, so several devices are connected to them. Devices of old standards have a power limit of 1300 watts.

Basic wiring rules

Connecting kitchen outlets is subject to important rules.

  1. The total power of household appliances connected to this outlet must not be higher than the maximum allowed.
  2. As many lines should be drawn to the kitchen as needed to power all the equipment, plus the same amount.
  3. If appliances with high power will work in the kitchen, it is necessary to start a separate line for them by installing automatic machines on it.
  4. Household appliances with a metal housing need a grounding system.
  5. It is not recommended to install sockets behind refrigerators, ovens, hoods. The minimum distance from these devices is 20 cm.
  6. When placing sockets, it is necessary to take into account their distance from the countertop. The best option is 15 cm.
  7. Do not install sockets above the sink and stove.
  8. Before starting installation, a detailed plan must be drawn up.

Altitude instructions

The location of sockets is subject to requirements regarding the distance from the floor. The scheme implies the presence of three levels:

  1. Lower. Large household appliances are connected here. The height from the socket to the floor ranges from 10 to 30 cm.
  2. Average. Used to connect most devices. They are located in the kitchen apron at a distance of 20 cm from the countertop.
  3. Upper. Designed for extraction. The minimum height is 2 m.

Mounting Features

Consider an approximate plan for installing sockets in the kitchen:

  1. Make a markup, indicating where which points will be placed.
  2. De-energize the room.
  3. Use an indicator screwdriver to check the absence of current.
  4. Lay the main power cable, while installing circuit breakers or fuses.
  5. Equip the cable insulation system. In concrete walls, it is laid in corrugated pipes, in plasterboard walls - in cavities. You can hide the cable in the skirting boards.
  6. Install sockets. Run a cable through them. Attach to wall with mortar. Continue working after it is completely dry.
  7. Disassemble the sockets into parts, removing the lining from them and separating the working mechanism.
  8. Strip the cable 1 cm from the edge.
  9. Connect the wires one by one to the inside of the outlet.
  10. Fix the mechanism in the socket using screws.
  11. Close the inside with a decorative overlay.
  12. Start current. Check the correct connection using any household appliance.

If everything is done correctly, the check will be successful, the devices will work. If mistakes are made, the system will have to be completely disassembled and reassembled.

Possible mistakes

Errors are gross and minor. Here are some examples:

  1. Ignoring safety precautions. Includes improper cable placement, lack of insulation, and neglect of wall material features.
  2. Using only one power cable. When you turn on several household appliances at once, the line may not be able to cope with the voltage. Therefore, you have to connect one powerful or a couple of low-power items of equipment to the network, which is not very convenient.
  3. The electric stove is connected to a common line. This error will cause the device to work poorly.
  4. Devices located under the sink do not have the necessary level of protection against moisture ingress. If you put an outlet in this place, it must be marked IP44. The presence of protection is also important for those devices that are located in the zone of free access of small children.
  5. For household appliances that work using water, there is no separate line. Sockets for dishwashers and washing machines, as well as for electric kettles and coffee makers must be grounded, and the line itself is equipped with an RCD. These precautions will help to avoid a fire in the event of a short circuit.

Minor errors include the lack of spare sockets, their inconvenient location, and the discrepancy between the color of the decorative lining and the overall interior design.

The placement of kitchen outlets should be approached with the utmost seriousness. The safety of households depends on how accurately all the rules are observed. It is important to strictly adhere to the recommendations regarding the location, height and connection of outlets.

It takes ~2 minutes to read

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The problem of a shortage of sockets throughout the apartment, including in the kitchen, is relevant all over the world. The reason is banal: almost the entire housing stock was built before technology became so much a part of everyday life. Now there are many times more electrical appliances, and the physical shortage of power sources is usually solved by improvised methods: tees and extension cords. In this article, we will look at their location.


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Planning at the initial stage of repair


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Total replacement of electrics, planning of a new electrical network and installation of a large number of outlets occurs either when buying a new apartment, or during a major overhaul of an existing home. It is necessary to determine their number and location even before the start of all work - in the repair of an electrician, one of the first is laid. After finishing, it will be too late to think: chasing and other installation work will require re-finishing the walls.

The issue of placing sockets will become acute even when creating a design project for an apartment, since the placement of a refrigerator and other household appliances, and hence the design of the room as a whole, will depend on their location.

What should the plan include?

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To avoid further confusion, need to make a general plan of the kitchen which should include the following information:

  • The location of all major appliances that take up space is comparable to furniture: refrigerator, dishwasher;
  • The location of the stove and the hood under it (even if there is already a socket for the stove, the hood will need its own electricity);
  • Planned placement of smaller appliances, such as a multicooker, pressure cooker, toaster, bread machine, microwave;
  • A place for a TV, if it will be present;
  • Location of sockets used in cooking: for a blender and other hand-held equipment.

In addition, in this room there should be from one to several additional outlets. They are not related to the cooking process and the kitchen as such, but are necessary for convenient and comfortable use of the premises.

What additional space may be required for:

  1. Vacuum the room, make wet cleaning (Karcher-type systems).
  2. Connect a laptop or other equipment.
  3. Charge phone, tablet


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Given that such power sources are usually used for small household needs and telephone, it is best to locate them in the recreation area. In this case, not only the height of the sockets in the kitchen should be taken into account, but also their location should be carefully thought out.

It will be unpleasant if the phone charging wire is constantly missing, because the socket is made too far and low from the sofa or chair. An error in planning is especially painful for kitchens with a small area, where there are often simply no options for redevelopment after the repair is completed.

Calculation of the optimal amount

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Having an idea of ​​the planned number of electrical appliances, you can easily calculate how many and where right now you need to place outlets. It is quite another matter to try to calculate the situation at least a few years ahead, to leave a reserve for new electrical appliances and unforeseen situations.

Fortunately, there is a calculation formula that will eliminate the need to guess on your own. These calculations are rather conditional, but there should not be a shortage of sockets at least in the first years after the repair. It is believed that their number should be a quarter higher than the number of constantly used electrical appliances.

Electrical appliances such as a refrigerator, microwave, extractor hood, TV or even a kettle are constantly connected to the mains. Sockets for all this equipment will always be occupied, and you will not be able to use them. So, minus all these consumers, at least 25% should be put in reserve. If there are non-standard or personal needs (a server, an aquarium with lighting and pumps, etc.), sockets for these needs are planned and laid separately.

What sockets are best for the kitchen?

In the case of the kitchen, the layout includes not only indicators such as height and their location, but also characteristics. The kitchen is characterized by the following conditions:

  • High humidity during cooking;
  • Temperature changes;
  • Frequent use if small household appliances are actively used in cooking.

Sockets must be sufficiently protected from moisture so that use in any possible conditions in the kitchen is safe.

Such models should:

  • Be classified as IP 44 (or better in terms of protection);
  • Have a seal and a protective cover.

It is especially important to install such sockets in places where the risk of water ingress is maximum: splashes from under the sink or during cooking, near the work area. In those places where the chance of water ingress is zero - for example, near the dining table, you can install the most common ones without additional protection.

If you have free funds, you can install more comfortable options:

  • built-in;
  • Retractable;
  • With child protection (many models have such an option in the form of a protective curtain);
  • With additional USB for mobile devices.

Wiring rules

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When distributing electricity, it is worth remembering that for uninterrupted operation and the absence of overloads in the network, sockets must provide power that is twice the consumption of all appliances. Moreover, such powerful electrical appliances as a stove and refrigerator must have their own wiring line and circuit breaker.

Naturally, the connection of all lines goes through the machine. When connecting, it is required to immediately ground all electrical appliances with metal cases - this is a general safety rule that applies throughout the apartment, and not just in the kitchen.

All electricity in the apartment should be grouped by scope and divided into machines in a protective shield. Groups of outlets that feed individual rooms can be connected to one machine. This improves the overall security of the system.

For example, three machines can be responsible for electricity in the kitchen:

  • For a plate;
  • For refrigerator;
  • For other devices.

Installation height and switches

The choice of the exact location for installation depends on the specific kitchen project, and in each apartment these places are different. Their installation near the working area is carried out high: so that not only furniture, but also the wires of the equipment do not interfere with the cooking process, therefore, at what height to install is a purely matter of each project. But near the dining table, electricity can be supplied just above the surface of the countertop, and 10 centimeters from the floor - depending on how it is more convenient for the residents and what equipment will be connected.

In the kitchen, it makes sense to install built-in sockets in places where they will be used only occasionally. . Plastic color and decorative design can be matched to the finish, since the standard white color stands out brightly in almost any interior.


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Before starting the electrical wiring, you also need to decide on all the switches, as well as other electrical systems and devices, if any.

Switches also do not have to choose the classic white color: the market has not only a wide range of materials and colors, but also many models with additional functionality. You can install beautiful sensory ones: photos show that such models are very convenient and have an almost eternal service life, since they have no moving elements and mechanical impact.

Installation is prohibited in the following places:

  • Behind built-in furniture or appliances;
  • At any height above the sink;
  • In bedside tables, cabinets and other similar furniture.

At the moment, generally accepted standards for working with electricity prohibit the installation of sockets in residential apartments before building in appliances. In the case of using this technique, the connection must be made from below, the switches will also be located there.

The layout and location of sockets in the kitchen (photo)


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A large number of household appliances used in the kitchen require an increase in the number of electrical outlets. With the ideal layout of kitchen outlets, a separate outlet should be planned for each household appliance used. If this is not possible, then you can determine the required number of kitchen outlets based on the following rules for installing kitchen outlets.

Plan-scheme of installation of kitchen sockets

Determination of the number of kitchen outlets

  • Powerful electrical appliances are always connected to the outlet and therefore require separate outlets;
  • Separate sockets must be installed for kitchen furniture and hoods;
  • For small appliances, install 3-4 outlets throughout the kitchen.

Rules for installing kitchen outlets

1. Install kitchen sockets at kitchen worktops at a height of 10 cm, measured from the finished floor along the top of the socket.

2.Kitchen outlets for built-in appliances can be installed behind the walls of adjacent cabinets. But at the same time, you need to understand that you will have to cut out the back walls of these bedside tables. The installation height of sockets should be 30-60 cm.

3. The connecting wire from the household appliance to the socket should not exceed 150 cm.

4. It is possible to install kitchen sockets inside the kitchen cabinet with a sink. With this installation of a kitchen outlet, its degree of moisture protection should be IP44.

5. Installation of the outlet for the hood should be done at a height of 50-60 mm from the top of the kitchen cabinets. In this case, it must be taken into account that the outlet is not blocked by the ventilation duct from the hood to the kitchen vent. The distance from the middle of the hood to the outlet should be more than 20 cm, again in order not to get behind the duct.

6. Installation of sockets for small household appliances is carried out on a kitchen apron, at a height of 1-1.4 meters from the floor (above the working surface of the countertop)

7. Sockets for lighting built into furniture are installed above wall cabinets. This will make them "invisible"

Prohibitions when installing kitchen outlets

1. It is forbidden to install kitchen sockets behind the housings of built-in household appliances and behind drawers;
2. It is forbidden to install sockets above the sink and stove.

Characteristics of outlets for installation in the kitchen

1. To connect the hob to 220 volts, it is enough to install a 20Amp, 400 volt (8KW) power socket, type 2P + E.

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