Education as the basis of training. Raising an English Cocker Spaniel, at least in a minimal amount, is a necessary thing for all owners. How to properly train a Cocker Spaniel is not a team

Spaniels first appeared in Spain, hence the name. Like British Beagles, the breed was bred for hunting. Then the dogs were brought to England. All spaniels have drooping ears and a thick, short coat. Color can be any, classic colors - red, black, chocolate.

Breed variety

All representatives of this breed are smart, loyal, sociable, friendly. They are easy to train. There are many subspecies of the spaniel. But the most common are English, American and Russian Cocker Spaniels.

English

The first Englishmen were larger in size. They were crossed with Japanese spaniels brought as a gift to the Queen of England. The hybrid turned out to be an English Cocker Spaniel. This is a mobile and hardy hunting dog with a developed sense of smell.

It differs from the American and Russian spaniels in body proportions, head size and shape. It has a dense muscular physique, a short body, strong strong paws, the head is arched in front and slightly flattened. Eyes are smart, kind. Height at the withers - 34-41 cm, weight - 12-16 kg.

The English Cocker has a long, silky and dense coat of various colors. She requires constant care. A thoroughbred spaniel does not have curls, curls, curly waves. Friendly to people and other dogs, loves to play with children.

American

The English Cocker Spaniel is the ancestor of the American, they are similar in appearance. The American is inferior in size and weight to the Englishman and Russian. Height at the withers - 35-39 cm, weight - 12-14 kg. American Cockers have large expressive eyes, a shorter muzzle and a clear transition from the forehead to the muzzle, the hair is longer, thicker and more magnificent, ears, belly, chest are decorated with curls of wool.

Color color, black, black and tan, any other solid color with or without tan. The American Cocker has developed hunting qualities, but now it is a decorative dog.

Russian

The Russian Cocker Spaniel is a cross between spaniels of different species. Soviet breeders wanted to get the most suitable dog for hunting. The body of the Russian Spaniel is slightly longer than the American and English Spaniel, the legs are also long, which makes it easier to gallop in difficult places.

Height at the withers - 36-44 cm, weight - 13-18 kg. The head is light, slightly convex on the sides, the profile is almost rectangular, and the upper lip is slightly rounded. Wool of medium length and density. It is forbidden to cut it. In addition, the Russian Cocker is a good watchman.

Price of puppies

For a thoroughbred dog that will hunt or participate in exhibitions, contact the kennel. The price depends on the pedigree, a rare color also increases the price. An English Cocker Spaniel puppy from ordinary parents costs between 7,000-10,000 rubles, from titled ones - 10,000-35,000 rubles.

A spaniel puppy from hands, in the market or in a pet store, costs 2000-5000 rubles. But here they can sell you a mestizo or a sick dog obtained as a result of inbreeding. Americans cost a little less, the price of a puppy of titled parents is up to 30,000 rubles. Approximately the same price of Russian cockers.

How to choose

It is better to take a puppy at 2 months, when his psyche and immunity will get stronger. The breeder will give you a document with his name, information about the pedigree, vaccinations, deworming.

When visiting a breeder, pay attention to how the bitch and puppies are kept. Observe all puppies of the same litter. None of them should be lethargic or look sick. Puppy place should be dry and clean. Mom looks cheerful, well-fed and healthy.

Watch how the puppies eat. A bad sign - if they eat badly, sluggishly approach the bowl or turn away. Puppies should be healthy, moderately well-fed, clean, mobile.

At 2 months they stand firmly on their paws, play a lot, run, jump. They are cheerful and curious. In healthy puppies, the coat is smooth, shiny, the nose is moist, the ears and eyes are clean, without discharge. They should not have physical defects - umbilical or inguinal hernias, visible consequences of birth or postpartum injuries, symptoms of rickets.

The bite should be in a scissor bite, as in an adult dog. The number of incisors in both jaws should be 12, 6 in each jaw. More or less of them speaks of a tribal marriage.

When choosing a puppy, pay attention to the proportionality of the addition and movement, if there are any visible flaws in the setting of the paws.

Cocker spaniel puppies are future hunters. They play hunter and prey. The "hunter" sneaks up and attacks the "prey". Then the roles change, the “prey” becomes the “hunter”. In this game, puppies show instincts. As for gender, this is a personal choice of the owner. Spaniel breeders note that these dogs are docile and calm.

Bitches are more obedient and balanced, they quickly get used to the owner, but during skirmishes between dogs, bitches behave more aggressively. Raising a dog is harder.

Care

Daily care is needed for a thick coat of a pet. Brush your spaniel every day. Pay special attention to the ears, belly, fluffy "skirt" and "panties" on the hind legs. You will need a comb with long teeth, scissors for cutting tangles and a small massage brush. Shampoo your dog once a week with long hair shampoo. Soap and regular hair shampoos will not work. After washing, dry the wool with a hair dryer.

Cocker spaniels need trimming and haircut, it will be done in the grooming salon.

The spaniel needs long walks and active outdoor play, while remembering to protect your pet from fleas and ticks. Take it with you for jogging, take it out of the country, let's swim - spaniels love water very much.

Check your pet's eyes and ears every day. If you notice discharge from the ears, and the dog shakes his head and scratches them, take him to the veterinarian. If sulfur builds up, clean them with a damp cotton swab.

Spaniel nails can grow in, so cut them once a week with dog clippers. Deworm your pet twice a year.

newborn puppies

Caring for a newborn spaniel puppy is not difficult. The bitch will feed, lick and protect the cubs. In the first hours of life, they independently find the mother's nipple. If you have puppies without a mother at home, pick up a milk replacer for them. It is sold in pet stores in powder form.

While you are looking, give the puppies condensed milk, take four parts of milk and one part of boiled water. Do not give cow's, goat's milk, baby food. This is not suitable for puppies.

In the early days, babies sleep and suck, rapidly gaining weight. If they do not squeak, then they are full. In the first week of life, they do not have the correct thermoregulation system. In the cold, they will not shiver. The normal body temperature for a newborn spaniel is 34.5-36°C. Watch the temperature in the couch if they grow separately from the mother. If the couch is colder than +30 ° C, there is a possibility that the puppies will freeze.

You can put an electric heating pad in the bed. Install it not on the entire area of ​​​​the couch. Around the eighth day, trim the puppy's nails so that he doesn't scratch his mother's nipple. Trim your nails once a week, cutting only the sharp edges.

Puppies open their eyes from the 11-15th day of life. Rumor appears a little later, on the 18th day. In the third week of life, babies walk and master the territory in the couch and beyond. They become pretty, playful and active. They begin to get out of their corner, go to the toilet. At the fourth week of life, the first teeth begin to erupt, first the fangs. From this time on, complementary foods can be introduced.

Before you bring a spaniel, prepare the necessary things.

clothing

Protect your pet from dirt while walking. The spaniel will need a knitted hat with an elastic band, which protects the long ears from dirt and water. For the off-season, the dog needs a waterproof overall. Pick up light clothes for the summer - it will save thick wool from leaves, dry branches and small debris. Winter clothes are not needed - thick wool will protect well from the cold.

Collar

He needs a puppy and an adult dog. Buy leather, about 2 centimeters wide. Attach a sign to it with your address and the name of the animal. Make sure your finger is placed between the collar and the dog's neck. This will ensure that the animal is breathing freely.

Leash

Buy a leash made of durable leather. Length from 1 to 2 meters, width about 0.6-2.5 centimeters. There is a loop at one end for you to hold it comfortably. On the other end there is a carabiner clasp.

Do not go for a walk without a leash to avoid unpleasant incidents.

Muzzle

All muzzles are made of soft leather. Wear it when you go out. The dog may try to take it off at first. Over time, the pet will get used to it.

Toys

Spaniels are playful and active, buy toys for your pet, pet stores have a large selection of toys made of plastic or durable rubber. Don't buy small toys that he can't swallow.

bowl for water and food

A bowl of water should be in one place, be accessible to the dog. A bowl of food - only during feeding.

Prepare for the arrival of a new family member. Remove wires from appliances, household chemicals, small and sharp objects, all things that the dog can spoil or swallow from the floor.

Diet

Follow the feeding schedule. Remember that the dog must eat at a certain time, do not give pieces between feedings. Spaniels should not be fed, they tend to be overweight.

If you refuse the offered food, do not replace it with another one, remove it and offer it next time. If at least once you replace food, then the puppy will quickly learn that you can beg for something tastier. In no case do not force to eat up what was given.

In the first months, the puppy is actively growing and gaining weight.

If the puppy's weight varies greatly, consult your veterinarian.

Feeding mode:

• up to 2 months, the puppy is fed 6 times a day after 3.5 hours;
• from 2 to 4 months they feed 5 times a day, every 4 hours;
• from 4 to 6 months - 4 times;
• from 6 to 10 months - 3 times;
• from 10 months - 2-3 times a day.

natural food

Natural food should be balanced. Every day, choose nutritious food that contains the right substances for growth and development.

Meat

Give a puppy up to a year 50 g per day for every kilogram of weight. For an adult dog, give 200-250 g of meat per day. Include boiled liver, kidneys, heart, udder in the menu. Add finely chopped vegetables to the meat.

Dairy

Give a puppy up to a year calcined cottage cheese. You can cook it yourself. To do this, add 2 tablespoons of 10% calcium chloride to half a liter of boiling milk. Discard curdled cottage cheese. Give the rest of the whey to drink to the puppy or brew oatmeal. You can give good hard grated cheese, add it to porridge and vegetable mixtures. Milk is good for puppies, but can cause a laxative effect. Give puppies yogurt and yogurt.

Eggs

Nutritious and healthy for your dog. From 4 months of age, give raw yolks mixed with dairy products or porridge. Crude protein is not digested. Let the eggs boiled "soft-boiled" or in the form of an omelet. With a meat menu, one or two eggs per week are enough.

Cereals and bread

They diversify the puppy's diet. In the first place in terms of nutrition - hercules. Soak it in kefir, whey, broth, milk. Steam the porridge, and generally give an adult dog almost raw flakes. Boil rice, buckwheat porridge in milk, add carrots, pumpkin and other vegetables, except potatoes.

Offer an adult dog and a teenage puppy to gnaw rye crackers, crusts from fresh loaves of wholemeal flour.

Vegetables

Carrots, pumpkin, bell pepper, zucchini let finely chopped or grated. Beets - only in boiled form. Add raw chopped greens to the main dish as a vitamin supplement. Raw berries and fruits, dried fruits are useful for a puppy. Boiled pumpkin with porridge is good as an antihelminthic.

Give your puppy dried fruit and cheese as a reward. Between 3 and 7 months of age, give your puppy 2-3 calcium gluconate or lactate tablets daily. You can grind them in a coffee grinder and add them to your food.

What not to feed:

• too hot and cold food;
• spicy, salty, fatty, sweet, smoked foods;
• river and raw fish;
• do not give bones;
• pasta;
• legumes and potatoes;
• white bread;
• sausages and sausage;
• sweets and chocolate;
• pork and fatty lamb;
• raw chicken meat;
• food from the table.

Sample menu for a puppy 2-3 months old:

6.00 - cottage cheese + warm milk;
10.00 - rice porridge with boiled meat and grated carrots;
13.00 - finely chopped raw meat or boiled fish with crushed boiled vegetables;
17.00 - cottage cheese + warm milk;
20.00 - Hercules on whey with meat and vegetables;
23.00 - boiled meat and milk porridge.

Dry food

Dry food contains all the nutrients a dog needs. Start feeding your puppy canned food. Pour dry food into canned food, so you will gradually switch to it completely. By the same principle, switch to dry food from natural. Consider premium and super premium food.

The main thing is that the dog likes the food, does not cause her allergies and eating disorders. Food for pregnant and lactating females, for aging dogs, dietary and medicinal food are sold.

Vaccination

In the first year of a dog's life, 4 vaccinations are required. Before each vaccination, the dog is dewormed. The schedule is this:

• at 1.5 months, a vaccination against enteritis (hepatitis) is given;
• after 10-14 days - repeated;
• at 2.5 months they are vaccinated against the plague;
• at 7 months - repeated;
• after 8 months - rabies vaccination.

Dogs are vaccinated every year throughout their lives. Do not vaccinate if she looks sick, if she is in heat or pregnant. Put a mark in the veterinary passport with the date of vaccination and the seal of the veterinary station. An official seal is needed if you are going to go somewhere by train or plane. After vaccination, the dog does not need to be washed for 10 days, make sure that it does not get wet, do not overcool.

Veterinary

Spaniels are prone to certain health problems. Do not forget to carefully examine the pet, if necessary, show it to the veterinarian.

Ears

Long ears protect the dog's ear canal from foreign objects. But due to insufficient ventilation, increased humidity is created, which affects the development of inflammatory diseases. If you notice discharge and an unpleasant smell from the ears, the dog scratches his ears, shakes his head, contact your veterinarian as soon as possible. Every day, inspect the pet's ears, clean from excess sulfur. Do not allow water to enter. When bathing, protect the ear passages with pieces of cotton wool in vegetable oil.

Eyes

Spaniels are prone to inflammation of the eyes. Wipe your eyes with a cotton pad, if signs of inflammation appear - purulent discharge, lacrimation, the dog is afraid of light - contact your veterinarian. Before that, wipe your eyes with a decoction of chamomile.

Allergy

If the pet itches, irritation appears on the skin, these may be signs of an allergy. Alternately change your pet's foods from the diet or replace dry food. Watch what places the dog combs, perhaps these are flea bites.

Training and education

Cocker Spaniels need attention. They quickly adapt to a new home, lifestyle, habits of the owner. Start raising a puppy immediately, until his psyche is formed. Teach respect and proper attitude towards the owner. Dogs of this breed are smart, but don't count on the dog to learn order instinctively.

The Cocker Spaniel is affectionate with family members and strangers. Disaccustom him not to be distracted by every passerby, not to sniff and jump on strangers. This can cause discomfort to strangers and be dangerous for the animal itself.

In keeping a Cocker Spaniel, use affection and perseverance. They are sensitive to punishment, do not punish them verbally or physically. If you notice that the dog is trying to go to the toilet at home, try to interrupt it and take it outside to the proper place as soon as possible. If you notice that the dog is constantly trying to shit, consult a veterinarian, perhaps the reason is the health of the pet.

The following recommendations will help in training a Cocker Spaniel:

1. Timeliness. You can start training from the age of 5-6 months. A six-month-old puppy is easier to teach commands than an adult dog with an established character.
2. Regularity. Reinforce each command, the animal tends to get distracted and forget. Conduct training daily.
3. Sufficient load. The Cocker Spaniel is primarily a hunter and a bloodhound. Physical activity is a must for him. During training, teach the spaniel the necessary and active commands (trotting, fetching, etc.).
4. Tolerance. Praise and reward your puppy for completing the command. Don't punish failures, raise your voice, or ignore your pet.
5. Game approach. Try to turn training into an entertaining game, the result will not be long in coming.
6. Personal contact. Do not entrust training to other family members, friends, etc. To establish contact with a pet, train it yourself.

For many owners, a dog is associated with a child, especially vivid associations arise when meeting a cute puppy. How to communicate with a pet so that there are no difficulties in education is a question that many new dog breeders are looking for an answer to.

Raising a Cocker Spaniel

The English Cocker Spaniel really needs the attention of his owner. In dealing with this breed, the owners never have significant problems, the dogs quickly adapt to the lifestyle, habits of the owner, as well as to a new home. Raising a Cocker Spaniel Puppy should begin as soon as the baby crosses the threshold of his new home. The sooner the owner starts raising his pet, the more obedient the dog will be later and the less problems the owner will have with training. While the dog's psyche has not yet been formed, its behavior can be easily modeled by teaching the dog respect and the right attitude towards the owner. It should not be expected that the dog will learn the necessary rules instinctively. The only exceptions are the rules of cohabitation. For example, a Cocker Spaniel can adapt to the schedule of the owner, the time convenient for him. The Cocker Spaniel is very affectionate, both with close family members and with complete strangers. That is why, the main thing in raising a dog is to teach it not to be distracted by every passerby, fervently sniffing at random people you meet and jumping on children playing in the yard. This behavior can cause discomfort to strangers, but first of all, be dangerous for the animal itself. Dogs of this breed are smart, so the skills that the owner teaches the dog remain with him until the end of his life. Raising a Cocker Spaniel Puppy should occur in a combination of affection and perseverance. You should not encourage the dog for incorrect behavior, but you should not scold a very small puppy for puddles in the living room either. This breed does not tolerate violence, but with the right explanation and encouragement, it grasps commands on the fly.

Cocker Spaniel Training

Answering the question of how to train a cocker spaniel, you can play an exciting game, interest the dog. In view of the gullibility of Cocker Spaniels, the owner must first teach the dog basic commands, accustom it to a leash and a collar. The commands “come”, “place”, “sit” must be learned by the dog as soon as possible, even if planned. With the help of these commands, the owner can easily control the actions of his dog. In order for the puppy to learn the “come to me” command, you need to lure the puppy during a walk, and when he runs up, reward him with a treat. The command worked out several times will be learned by the dog, and after a certain number of trainings, the command will forever be deposited in the memory of the dog. Cocker spaniel puppy training includes learning to walk on a leash as well as being comfortable with a collar. If after the collar is put on the dog, he tends to take it off, you need to distract the puppy by offering him an exciting game. If the dog cannot get used to the collar for a long time, you need to make sure that it is suitable. A collar that is too stiff can damage the spaniel's delicate coat and skin. When the dog gets used to the collar and learns to walk on a leash, you can teach him the “near” command for this too, you can use the reward method. Show the puppy a treat, and then invite him to walk near your leg. You should not pull the leash towards you, as you will only provoke the Cocker Spaniel. To explain to the dog what actions are not allowed, you need to use emotional intonations. Under no circumstances should you raise your hand to the spaniel, the puppy will be very offended by you, and besides, you can injure him. Cocker spaniel training at home implies a detailed memorization of the commands “lie down”, “sit” and some others, albeit not very important, but very cute, for example, such as “give a paw”.

Numerous arguments of dog breeders about the extraordinary intelligence of their pets, unfortunately, are nothing more than an artistic exaggeration. No matter how smart the dog is, she is not able to understand the speech of a person, to realize what they want from her. That is why, in order to adequately introduce a four-legged friend into human society, every responsible owner is obliged to teach the dog the most necessary skills - that is, to take a training course with him.

Depending on the purpose of the dog, the course may be different: from primary training in the basics of obedience to special targeted coaching for specific tasks. The direction of the targeted training of the dog depends on what function it will have to perform. Guide dogs, search dogs, guard dogs and many more areas of human activity where the abilities of our four-legged friends are used are well known.

Spaniels are hunting dogs. This mission is in their blood. A three-month-old Cocker Spaniel, who has never seen a game, enthusiastically follows the trail he has found and happily brings a thrown ball. However, turning these instinctive actions into the honed skills of a serious hunting dog is the task of a coaching specialist. Most often, spaniels are trained to hunt for upland, meadow and lake feathered game, sometimes for a hare.

How to train a spaniel so that it becomes an indispensable assistant on the hunt? There are methods of training dogs worked out by many generations of hunters, which are simply impossible to retell in a small article. The most reliable thing is to seek advice and help from specialists. This will protect you and your dog from the inevitable mistakes that beginners make. However, I will allow myself to make a few general recommendations on how to teach a spaniel puppy commands.

1. One of the first questions facing the owner of a small spaniel is how to toilet train a baby? Puddles and heaps in the apartment do not give pleasure to any owner, and the puppy, perfectly feeling dissatisfaction, also receives negative emotions. Of course, the learning process will require time and patience from you. Closely monitor the baby, especially after eating. As soon as he starts looking for a place to relieve himself, spinning in one place, as if “treading on the grass”, immediately take him out into the street. After the toilet is done, praise the puppy. Very soon, he will begin to ask himself to go outside if necessary. Of course, at first, random breakdowns are inevitable. But you don't scold a small child for soiled diapers, do you?
2. Training should begin at about four months of age. Start with a general course of obedience. Before you start teaching the kid the wisdom of hunting, you need to teach him to respond to his name, to follow the simplest commands (“Come to me!”, “Lie down!”, “Sit!”, “No!”). This is the ABC of the dog training school, without which it is impossible to master the poetry of the high art of hunting ... For each correctly executed command, do not forget to reward the student with a treat or praise.
3. Try to spend as much time as possible with your puppy. At this age, a young dog creates its own picture of the world order, and the person who is constantly next to it becomes the center of its Universe for the dog. Spend your precious time on a little creature that you yourself brought into your home, and one day you will understand how easy it is to train a Cocker Spaniel. Because he will do anything to justify your love.

Spaniel training aims to develop the necessary skills for him to facilitate his training and further use in hunting. In the process of training a spaniel, they are taught to walk nearby; sit down after the approach on command; go to bed on a signal; submit items; to water and swimming; to the correct shuttle search.

Equipment for training

For training a spaniel, the following equipment is required: an elongated rope leash 15–20 m long, 8 mm thick with a carabiner at one end and three knots at the other, tied at a distance of 0.5 m from one another. The carabiner is used to attach the leash to the collar. The knots at the end of the leash keep it from fraying and also prevent it from slipping when the handler steps on it. An extended leash is used to influence the dog at a distance in order to reinforce the commands: “no”, “to me”, “near” and “down”, as well as to wean the dog from chasing the bird after it has been raised.

A "strict" collar is used very rarely and is only necessary when training stubborn dogs.

A whistle, plain, horn or metal, is worn around the neck on a cord. Used to call and lay the dog when it is at a great distance from the trainer.

Diapers (cloth and wooden) are used to train the dog to serve objects from land and water.

A twig from a vine 0.75 m long is necessary only at the time of teaching the dog to walk next to the trainer without a leash, as well as when practicing the “no” command.

The bag for carrying "goodies" is worn on the waist belt, on the left side of the body.

Equipment for training should always be kept in order, and after use should be cleaned and put away.

Learning to walk around

So that the dog does not interfere with the hunter during the transitions, as well as to preserve the strength of the dog, it is taught to move on command next to the trainer, on his left side both on a leash and without a leash. You can begin to accustom to this from the age of six months of the dog, immediately after accustoming him to the collar and free movement on a leash.

A place for training with a dog can be a yard, park, field, meadow or rare forest.

In order for the dog to be at the handler's left leg, the "close" command is used, which is accompanied by a light pat on the thigh with the left hand. Teach the dog to move next to the following order. An ordinary leash is fastened to the dog's collar and a command is given, "nearby", after which the dog is pulled up by the leash so that its right shoulder blade is at the handler's left leg. After that, the trainer begins to move with the dog, gradually, on the go, loosening the leash. If the dog runs forward, the trainer says the command "close", accompanying it with a slight jerk of the leash, thus returning the dog to the left leg. The correct position adopted by the dog is reinforced by "treats" and smoothing. All this is done by the trainer in motion, without suspension. At first, the movement with the dog is done in a straight line or in a large circle. In the future, the technique is complicated by changing the pace of movement and introducing turns, first to the right, then to the left, and subsequently a turn in a circle, which is performed over the right shoulder.

Having taught the dog to walk beside him on a leash, they begin to teach him to walk beside him without a leash. If at the same time the dog runs forward, give the command "near" and "accompany it with a light blow of the twig on the rump. When the dog assumes the correct position, it is encouraged.

After making sure that the dog, when running forward after the “near” command and without the influence of the leash or twig, quickly returns and takes the correct position near the trainer’s left leg, the leash is released from the hands and thrown to the ground. After that, in cases where the dog again runs forward or to the side, the command “near” is given and at the same time they step on the leash with their left foot, which causes a jerk. In the future, with a clear execution of the command "near", the leash is removed, and the movement with the dog is made without it.

Learning to sit on command

In order to make it easier and faster to put the necessary equipment on the dog or take it off, you must first seat the dog.

To work out this technique, they begin after accustoming the dog to walk side by side on a leash.

To train your dog to sit on command, use one of the three methods below.

The first way is with the help of "goodies". With this method, the dog must be on a leash. The handler takes the "treat" in his right hand, shows it to the dog, says the command "sit", and then raises his hand with the "treat" over her head. This causes the dog to raise its head and encourages it to sit down. The landing position is fixed by "treatment" and smoothing.

The second way is by pressing on the sacrum of the dog. With this method, the dog must also be on a leash. The trainer takes the leash with his right hand at a distance of 10-15 cm from the collar, says the command "sit" and with the movement of his right hand pushes the dog back, and with his left hand presses on his sacrum. When the dog sits, the trainer, without removing the left hand from the sacrum, encourages it with a "delicacy" and smoothing.

When the dog tries to stand up, the trainer again gives the command "sit", accompanying it with hand pressure on the sacrum.

The third way is with a twig. With this method, the dog must be on a leash and be near the left leg. The trainer gives the command "sit", after which, imperceptibly for the dog, he strikes her lightly with the tip of the twig on the croup. Under the impact of the blow, the dog quickly lowers the croup, i.e. sits down. When the dog sits down, the trainer encourages it, gives it a "treat" and pets it. Before striking, the twig is held under the armpit of the left hand. The blow is applied with the right hand by lowering the twig onto the dog's croup along the handler's left side.

In subsequent classes, the implementation of the technique is complicated. The dog is gradually taught to maintain a sitting position in place for 1 to 2 minutes. When the dog attempts to change its position, the trainer immediately repeats the "sit" command, accompanying it with a slight jerk of the leash back.

In the future, each time the dog approaches the trainer, the command "sit" will be given on recall, for which the dog is rewarded.

After several such repetitions, the command to "sit" when the dog approaches the trainer stops, as the dog develops the skill to sit in front of the trainer on its own.

Learning to lie down on a signal

Teaching a spaniel to lie down on command, gesture or whistle is one of the most necessary techniques that directly affects the success of using a spaniel when hunting a bird.

The precise fulfillment of the “down” signal by the spaniel makes it possible to lay him down at the moment he is accustomed to the bird in order to come closer to the dog for a more reliable shot and then send it to raise the bird on the wing. In addition, the "down" signal makes it possible to lay down the spaniel after the bird has risen to the wing. This prevents the dog from chasing the bird and guarantees the hunter from an accidental shot at the dog at the moment when the bird he has picked up is flying down.

First, the dog is taught to lie down near the trainer only on command. To do this, the trainer, having the dog on a leash, gives the command to "lie down", quickly bends down and presses the withers of the dog with his left hand, and with his right hand, intercepting the leash closer to the collar, makes a jerk down, which encourages the dog to take a lying position. When the dog lies down, the trainer holds it in this position with the left hand lying on the withers, and gives it a "treat" with the right hand.

By repeating these actions, the dog develops the skill to lie down only on one command "down", without pressure on the withers and jerking the leash.

After that, the dog is gradually taught to maintain a lying position when the trainer moves away from it, for 1-2 minutes. To do this, the trainer, after laying down the dog, once again repeats the command "down", and then moves away from it one or two steps forward. When the dog attempts to stand up, the trainer repeats the "down" command, accompanying it with a slight pull of the leash down.

In subsequent classes, the dog is taught to follow commands at a distance. To do this, the dog must be on an extended leash. The trainer catches the moment when the dog during the walk will be two or three steps away from him, and gives the command "down". If the dog does not comply with the command, he lunges forward with the right shoulder strap and strikes the leash with the palm of his right hand from above, thereby encouraging him to lie down. In order to get a jerk, the trainer's leash must be in his left hand and slightly taut. Every time the dog lies down, the trainer should come up to him and encourage him. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the dog does not change its position before the command "near" or "walk".

The distance at which commands are given is gradually increased to 15 - 20 m from the dog (the length of the extended leash).

The gesture-signal "to lie down" is the raising of the right hand vertically upwards, with the palm away from you.

In order to teach the dog to lie down by the gesture, the trainer must give the appropriate gesture each time before the “down” command. Through repetition, the dog develops a strong habit of lying down in one gesture, without the verbal command "to lie down."

One long whistle serves as a signal for the dog to "down".

To teach a dog to lie down on a whistle, the trainer acts in the same way as during training to lie down on a gesture, i.e. each time before the command "to lie down" gives the corresponding signal with a whistle. Through repetition, the dog develops the same strong habit of lying down on only one signal with a whistle, not accompanied by a verbal command "to lie down."

To develop speed and reliability in performing the technique, the dog should be trained as often as possible. To do this, it is advisable to put the dog on walks at times when her attention is distracted by something.

On walks, the dog must be on an extended leash so that the trainer can force her to lie down at any time.

After the dog performs this technique without fail, the trainer lowers the leash from his hands during classes and walks, giving the dog the opportunity to further move away from it. Further training should take place at a greater distance from the trainer and gradually reach up to 30 - 40 steps.

After the dog has developed a strong skill to quickly and smoothly lie down at the first signal of the trainer in any situation, at a distance of up to 40 steps, the need for an elongated leash disappears. In the classroom and walks, the leash can be unfastened and the training can be carried out without it.

Getting used to serving

A mandatory requirement is presented to the spaniel - to be able to correctly and reliably, at the first command of the hunter, serve the killed game both on land and from the water. Every breed of spaniel has an innate tendency to serve, but this does not mean at all that every spaniel, without additional training, will carefully take the killed game, i.e. do not crush her, always sail after her without fail and give her into the hands of the hunter. That is why it is necessary to accustom the spaniel to the correct and trouble-free feed, and not to wait for the manifestation of this quality when the dog grows up and they start hunting with it. There are several different ways to train a spaniel to feed a bird.

Considering the soft nature of the spaniel, we will analyze one of the methods that is most suitable for him and more accessible to the novice hunter and young trainer - the method of accustoming to "revive the subject."

Teaching a dog to serve objects can be started from the age of six months, but always after she has become accustomed to the collar, free movement on a leash and approach to the trainer.

The place for training in the beginning should be such where the attention of the dog is as little as possible distracted.

In order to get good results in training, the dog should not be often sent for diarrhea, as this can tire him and extinguish the desire to serve.

To accustom the dog to serve, the trainer, having the dog on an elongated leash, plays with it, which excites it, then shows it a soft cloth diaper, gives the command to “serve”, after which, with light strokes of the diaper, causes the dog to want to grab it. Catching this, the trainer repeats the command "give" and throws the diaper forward 8 - 10 steps.

A dog that grabs a diarrhoea, the trainer delays with a leash, while not allowing jerks. Then he shortens the leash, brings the dog closer to him, takes the diaper and says the command "give", after which he takes the diaper, and the dog encourages with a "delicacy" and stroking.

If the dog refuses to pick up the diaper or throws it out of its mouth, the trainer "revives" the diaper by pushing with his foot and at the same time gives the command to "give".

In subsequent lessons, the game with the dog before sending it for diarrhea is gradually reduced, and then completely eliminated. From the moment when the dog begins to give the diarrhea without teasing, it is necessary to introduce a short, at first 15-second, delay between throwing the diarrhea and sending the dog after it. To do this, after the throw, the trainer holds the dog with a leash, then gives the command "give" and releases the leash.

The delay between throwing the diaper and sending the dog after it gradually increases to one minute. At the same time, the throwing range of the diarrhea gradually increases.

After the dog learns to sit down on command and starts to give diarrhea with a delay, i.e. not to rush after the thrown diarrhea, it is necessary to enter the landing into the reception of the supply of objects. To do this, the trainer, before throwing the diaper and when the dog with the diaper approaches, gives the command "sit" and requires its implementation. Until the dog executes the "sit" command, he does not throw the diaper. The trainer also does not take away the diarrhea from her until the moment the dog sits in front of him with the diarrhea in his teeth. In the future, a light cloth diarrhea is replaced by a wooden one, and directly on the hunt - by a freshly killed duck, black grouse or pheasant. When switching from a cloth diaper to a wooden one, it is very useful to wrap its middle with cotton cloth in order to make the transition to a new object less noticeable. When a dog is trained to give in a way to "revive the object", you can not pronounce commands with a threatening intonation, you can not use jerks on the leash, as well as any coercion.

Water and swimming training

You can start training your spaniel for water and swimming from the age of six months, after he gets used to serving objects.

It is necessary to accustom a dog to water on a hot summer day on a small shallow pond with sloping banks.

In the process of accustoming a dog to water, one should not allow any coercion, as well as shout or give commands with a threatening intonation, so as not to educate the dog in an undesirable conditional connection - the type of water with pain (fear of water).

To encourage the dog to enter the water, a familiar wooden diaper is used. The diarrhea is shown to the dog and, with the command “give”, the trainer throws it at a distance no further than one meter from the shore, in a shallow place where the dog could freely come up and take the diarrhea. giving diarrhea from a shallow place, making sure that the dog has become accustomed to water, goes into the water willingly and quickly, you can start throwing the diarrhea to deeper places.As a result, there comes a moment when the dog, having reached the depth, loses ground under his feet, shows fear , but, seeing in front of him a close floating diarrhea, he makes several instinctive swimming movements, grabs the diarrhea in his teeth and returns to the trainer.

Having repeated once again the dog's message for a diaper thrown at the same place, classes should be stopped, and the dog should be given the opportunity to run and lie in the grass.

In subsequent classes with the dog, the range of throwing diarrhea from the shore is gradually increased to 25-30 m. In order not to overwork the dog and reduce its interest in giving diarrhea from the water, it is necessary to send it into the water no more than three times during one lesson.

Getting used to the search "shuttle"

A "shuttle" search or a correct search for a dog is considered to be when the dog searches a piece of terrain, moving ahead of the hunter from left to right and right to left, each time moving away from him at the same distance (Fig. 17).

Such a search is the most productive, it enables the dog to search any part of the area more thoroughly and in the shortest possible time.

Depending on the distance of the dog from the hunter to the right and to the left, the width of the search is determined. The width of the search can be normal, too wide and narrow.

A normal search for a spaniel is considered to be when the dog moves away from the hunter to the sides from 20 to 30 m. occur within the range of the shot.

The spaniel's narrow search (closer than 20 m) is also a disadvantage, since, searching a too narrow strip of terrain, the dog in most cases will pick up only the bird that the hunter could pick up himself, without her help. You can begin to teach a spaniel to the correct search by "shuttle" after he has been accustomed to willingly and quickly bring an abandoned diaper. To accustom the dog to search should be on a fairly large area, best of all in a meadow, with not tall grass, with a moderate wind.

Learning to search by "shuttle" is carried out in the following order:

The dog is taken on a leash, taken to the place where the dog is trained, where it is put down.

Then they move away from the dog, throw the diaper to the side for 20-25 steps, after which they return to the dog and let it go to search.

It is always necessary to let the dog in, from a place under the wind from diarrhea; this makes it easier for the dog to find and teaches him to use the wind.

First, the dog should be allowed to search from a distance of 25-30 steps from the diaper. In the future, this distance gradually increases to 125 - 150 steps.

Before starting the dog must be on a short leash near the left leg. The trainer stands facing the place of the thrown diaper, turns to the right and, after walking 2-3 steps, gives the commands "search", "serve" and at the same time throws the leash to the ground. The dog, having heard the familiar command "give", rushes forward.

The trainer gives the dog the opportunity to overtake himself, immediately changes the path of his movement in the direction of diarrhea, carefully watching the dog. After the dog moves away from him for 20-25 steps, he gives two frequent short signals with a whistle and at the same time gives a gesture with his left hand to search to the left, after which, without stopping, he moves to the left of the axis of movement. The whistle signal attracts the attention of the dog, she pauses, looks at the leader, sees that he is leaving her, catching up, and then overtaking him. From this moment on, the actions of the trainer are repeated, i.e. the dog is given the opportunity to overtake the trainer, after which the path of movement in the direction of the diarrhea immediately changes. When the dog moves 20-25 steps away from the trainer, he gives a signal with a whistle, accompanied by a gesture of his right hand, and, again changing direction, begins to move to the right of the axis of his movement until the dog catches up and overtakes him. So the trainer, with his movements and signals, gestures and whistle, encourages the dog to go in search of the front from left to right and right to left until he finds the diaper.

When the dog finds and gives the diarrhea, it is rewarded with a "treat". After a few minutes of rest, the exercise is repeated again. During classes, the exercise in the search for diarrhea is repeated no more than 2 - 3 times.

Through repeated lessons with the dog, she develops the skill to look for the hunter walking in front, move to the right and left of him, and change the direction of her movement, first at his signal, and then without a signal. At the same time, the dog develops the skill to use the wind while searching.

As the dog develops the correct search by "shuttle", the way of movement of the trainer becomes gradually more direct and at the end of working out the search - straightforward. At the same time, the movements of the trainer are made at a slow pace. Working off the search for the dog goes all the time with a dragging short leash. This is necessary in the future, when the dog is taught during the training to search with an extended leash.