Peculiarities of caring for Caucasian Shepherd puppies from the first days of life. Caucasian Shepherd Training: Features How to properly raise a Caucasian Shepherd puppy

It is very important to start training at an early puppy age. An older puppy is more difficult to manage. But most importantly, it is difficult to budge.

Starting from 2 months, the puppy is already quite capable of understanding the commands "", "!", "Stop!" and learn not to pull on the leash - the main lesson that we must teach him if we do not want to walk the rest of the time in a train.

To get long-term results, you just need a little patience. The main thing is not to set excessive tasks and not to demand blind obedience. You can never expect it from this type of dog. These dogs can only be convinced with love and affection. The Caucasian Shepherd Dog will never obey just because the boss ordered it. Thus, the relationship between the Caucasian Shepherd Dog and its owner is somewhat reminiscent of the relationship between a general and a simple soldier. It must be a relationship of equals.

Education of the Caucasian Shepherd Dog, features

It is necessary not only to take, but also to give. In other words, cooperate with the dog. The children's mentality of the dog, on the one hand, makes it a thunderstorm of strangers, and on the other hand, allows it to love its owner infinitely and completely and unconditionally trust him. And since the role of adults is assigned to us, then we have to take care not to disappoint the dog. Many believe that the best way to train a guard dog is to keep it in isolation. This is an erroneous technique, especially in relation to the Russian watchdog. We want to raise a watchman, not a killer, and a good watchman should be able to distinguish friend from foe, an uninvited guest from a stranger who is joyfully welcomed by the owner. And how can a dog do this if he has never communicated with anyone?

It is necessary to quickly acquaint with the outside world and its inhabitants. You can even allow strangers to caress and play with him, as he must understand that strangers are not always enemies. They become enemies only when they penetrate the territory that he is instructed to protect.

With such upbringing, a balanced psyche will form in the dog and she will be able to calmly accompany us everywhere. This will not only not prevent her from carrying out guard duty, but will also help her to fulfill it with greater understanding. Needless to say, the dog's wonderful reaction will remain with her. She will instantly react to both a sudden movement and an unexpected gesture.

Therefore, it is necessary to explain to strangers that you should approach the dog slowly, without making sudden movements or gestures. You can't even look her straight in the eyes. In dog language, this means that you challenge her. These lessons must be learned by outsiders if they want to play with a dog.

These dogs treat their children with great love. They truly adore them. It is also necessary to know that these dogs have a heightened sense of ownership. If Caucasian shepherd, she loves him recklessly and is ready to defend him with a sword in her paw, even from someone who most likely just wanted to pat him on the head.

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The Caucasian Shepherd Dog is a very ancient breed that was formed mainly in the mountainous and foothill regions of the Caucasus. Due to the harsh climatic conditions and the work that these dogs had to do, both the appearance and the character of this breed were formed. To protect from the cold, they needed a long coat with a thick and powerful undercoat, which allows Caucasians to sleep just on the snow in the most severe frost. The work of a Caucasian was primarily to protect the herd from large predators - wolves, and in order to engage in martial arts with a wolf, one must have not only great physical strength, but also have an iron character, which is fully present in the Caucasian Shepherd Dog.

I would like to say right away that the name “shepherd dog” is not quite suitable for a Caucasian, since the classic shepherd dogs (Scottish, German) have the task of grazing a herd in the truest sense of the word, knocking it into a heap, driving stragglers and lost animals. The Caucasian has a completely different task, due to his size and weight, he cannot run long and fast, and this is not required of him, his task is to protect the herd, so instead of the word "shepherd" the word "watchdog" would be much more suitable.

The breeding of the Caucasian Shepherd Dog was started in the Soviet Union in the middle of the last century. And in principle, rather uniform dogs with a good exterior and behavior were quite successfully obtained. But at the end of the existence of the USSR, there was a fashion for the so-called "natives", that is, for dogs brought from Central Asia, these were often ordinary mongrels, who often had certificates issued by village councils of distant auls instead of pedigrees. The hobby in the early 90s for dog fights, where Caucasians were constant participants, did not play a good role either.

The result of all this was the appearance of a large number of so-called "plank" dogs, that is, dogs in which, after reaching a certain age, the bar literally fell and they began to behave inappropriately, aggressively, and this aggression was not controlled and very often directed and to dog owners. A large number of such dogs, people simply sought to give at least somewhere, many dogs were euthanized or simply shot dead. All this contributed to the fact that this breed has developed a not very good image.

Although in fact they are excellent dogs for certain tasks. Recently, when the fashion for this breed has passed and normal dogs began to get into breeding, everything has improved with the behavior of Caucasians.

Features of the training of the Caucasian Shepherd Dog.

I would never advise getting a Caucasian to a person who has not had a dog before or to people who have a soft character or do not have time to work with a dog. It must be remembered that a Caucasian is primarily a warrior, and a real warrior obeys the orders of only that person who has unquestioned authority over him. Therefore, your task is precisely to win this authority from your dog, and this requires a lot of time, desire and, of course, some knowledge. Without this, all attempts to train a Caucasian are doomed to failure. I also want to note that many breeders, when selling puppies of this breed, say that these are dogs of late formation. From this, people who bought a Caucasian puppy conclude that since the dog is of late formation, then it is necessary to start training with it later. And when a dog turns, for example, 8 months old and weighs, for example, 50-60 kg, then the owner simply cannot physically do anything with it. Therefore, my advice is to start training with a Caucasian as early as possible, preferably at the age of 4-5 months, so that by the time he grows up, he already obeys you well.

BRIEF HISTORY OF THE BREED: It is generally accepted that the Caucasian Shepherd Dog originates from the ancient dogs of the Caucasus. The breed is common in the territories of the Caucasus, in the steppe regions of southern Russia. The development of the breed was due not only to folk selection, but also to the influence of the peoples inhabiting the Caucasian region. Historically, Caucasian Shepherd Dogs were used to protect herds and flocks, as well as housing from robbers and predators. The first mention of a large dog in the Molossian type was made by the army of the Armenian king Tigran II and dated back to the 1st century BC. Factory work with the breed began in the USSR in the 1920s. Necessary qualities, such as physical strength, self-confidence, fearlessness, keen hearing, excellent eyesight, thick waterproof coat, were cultivated through the selection process. All these qualities, along with endurance, allow people to use Caucasian Shepherd Dogs in any climatic conditions, including the most severe ones.

GENERAL FORM: The Caucasian Shepherd Dog is a dog of a harmonious structure, large, strong, very bony, with powerful muscles; slightly stretched. Sexual dimorphism is well expressed. Males are courageous, with well-defined withers and with a larger head than females. They are more massive, larger and often shorter than bitches. Dogs with longer hair have a well-defined mane.

IMPORTANT PROPORTIONS: The length of the body exceeds the height at the withers by 3-8%. The length of the forelegs is approximately 50-52% of the height at the withers. The length of the skull has a ratio to the muzzle of 3:2.

BEHAVIOR / TEMPERAMENT: Behavior balanced, active, self-confident, fearless and independent. Caucasian Shepherds are devoted to their owner; they are excellent protectors.

HEAD

CRANIAL REGION: The head is large, massive, wide at the cheekbones; when viewed from above, it looks like a wedge with a wide base.

Scull: Massive and wide, the forehead is almost flat, with a noticeable but not deep furrow. Superciliary ridges developed but not protruding. The occipital protuberance is inconspicuous.

Transition from forehead to muzzle: Noticeable, but not clearly defined.

FACE PART:

Nose: The nose is black and large. With correctly open nostrils, not extending beyond the line of the muzzle. A black nose in solid, spotted or piebald specimens is desirable but not required (genetic blue or brown noses are not allowed).

Muzzle: Broad and deep, gradually tapering towards the nose; with strong jaws and chin; very deep and well filled under the eyes. The bridge of the nose is wide. The upper lines of the muzzle and forehead are parallel.

Lips: Thick, close fitting, well pigmented.

Jaws / Teeth: Teeth should be healthy, white, strong; incisors are close to each other and in one line. Complete scissor or pincer bite (42 teeth). Damaged, broken, or missing incisors or canines that do not interfere with bite determination are not penalized, as are missing PM1 premolars.

CHAINS: Well developed and emphasized by very expressive masticatory muscles.

Eyes: Medium in size, oval in shape, not too deep, set wide and oblique. Color of various shades from dark brown to hazel. Eyelids black, dry and close fitting. The expression is serious, attentive and inquisitive.

Ears: Medium in size, thick, triangular, hanging naturally, set high and wide. The inner edge of the ear fits snugly against the cheekbones. Ears in the country of origin are traditionally cropped. Uncropped ears are equal.

NECK: Medium length, powerful, low output; rounded in cross section. The scruff is pronounced, especially in males.

FRAME: Very well developed in all dimensions; broad, muscular and balanced. Withers : Well pronounced, moderately long. The height at the withers is slightly greater than the height of the croup.

Back: Straight, wide, strong.

Small of the back: Short, wide, somewhat convex.

CRUP: Moderately long, broad, rounded, slightly sloping towards the base of the tail.

Breast: Long, broad, with well sprung ribs, deep overall and also in front; in cross section it has the shape of a wide oval. Ribs well sprung, false ribs long. Forbrust is noticeable.

Underline and Belly: The abdomen is moderately tucked up towards the back.

TAIL: Set high, sickle-shaped or curled. At rest, it hangs down and reaches the hocks; when the dog is alert, the tail may be carried over the line of the back.

LIMB

FOREQUARTERS: With good muscles. Seen from the front, the forelegs are straight, parallel, and fairly wide apart.

Shoulder blades: With strong muscles. Moderately long, wide, sloping, forming an angle with the humerus of about 100°. The shoulder blade fits snugly against the chest.

Shoulders: Strong and muscular, close fitting.

Elbows; Directed strictly backwards in parallel planes, turning neither in nor out. Forearm: Straight, massive, moderately long, well muscled; rounded in cross section.

Metacarpus: Short, massive; almost straight when viewed from the front and side.

Front legs: Large, round in shape, with well arched fingers, collected.

HIND LIMB: Seen from behind, straight, set parallel and moderately wide. Stifles and hocks with fairly good angulations when viewed from the side. The hindquarters should not be set far back.

Hips:

Knee joints: Pretty good articulation angle.

Lower legs: Broad, well muscled, moderately long.

Hock joint: Wide and dry, with sufficient angle; firm, turned neither in nor out.

Metatarsus: Not long, massive; almost straight when viewed from the front and side.

Hind legs: Large, rounded in shape, with well arched, tight toes.

GAIT / MOVEMENT: Free, flexible, unhurried movements with a good push - rear limbs. With good stability in all joints and well coordinated. The trot is the most typical gait. The withers are level with the sacrum, the topline is relatively stable in movement.

LEATHER: Thick, elastic enough, without folds and wrinkles.

COAT

HAIR COVER: Straight, coarse, protruding coat with developed undercoat. The length of the outer coat, as well as the undercoat, should not be less than 5 cm. The hair on the head and forelegs is shorter and denser. The tail is completely covered with thick hair and looks thick and fluffy. The longer guard hair forms "tassels" on the ears, a "mane" around the neck, and "trousers" on the back of the thighs.

COLOR: Any solid color, piebald or spotted. Except for solid black; blurry black or black in any combination; or genetic blue or liver brown.

SIZE AND WEIGHT:

Height at withers: Males: Desirable height 72-75 cm, minimum 68 cm.

Bitches: Desirable height 67-70 cm, minimum 64 cm. Larger individuals are allowed if the structure is harmonious.

Weight: Males: minimum 50 kg.

Bitches: at least 45 kg.

DEFECTS: Any deviation from the listed points is considered a defect, the severity of which must be considered in exact accordance with the degree of its development and the impact on the health and well-being of the dog.

SERIOUS FAULTS:

Too light or too rough structure.

Lack of self-confidence.

Deviation from sexual dimorphism.

Small head in proportion to the body; light, narrow, long; long, rough; head in the form of a brick or an apple.

Sharp transition from forehead to muzzle.

Muzzle: Downturned, concave or pointed.

Too small teeth; at large intervals; incisors not in line; any deviations from the full dental formula (except for the absence of PM1 premolars).

Insufficiently expressed cheekbones.

Eyes: large, protruding, very light, with a visible third eyelid; droopy eyelids.

Ears: Large, thin or set too low.

Topline: Hunchback or sagging back; long, weak or arched loin, croup above the withers.

Body: square, too squat; too long; narrow front and back; too tall on the feet. The chest is very short, flat or shallow; croup short or sharply sloping.

bobtail.

Weak bones, muscles and ligaments of joints.

Insufficient articulation angles.

Curved forearms.

Unbalanced movements.

Insufficient rear drive.

The wool is very soft; curly, with very short outer coat or no undercoat.

DISQUALIFYING FAULTS:

Aggression or excessive shyness.

Any dog ​​that shows obvious signs of physical or behavioral abnormalities must be disqualified.

Any deviation from the required bite.

Incomplete dental formula (absence of any tooth other than the third molar (M3) or first premolars (PM1).

Entropy.

Cloudy cornea of ​​the eye; dark blue, green shades of eyes or eyes of different colors.

Docked tail.

Constant ambling or inability to assess movement.

Black color in any variations: solid, blurry, piebald, spotted or raincoat (except for the mask).

Genetically blue color in any variations or nuances.

Bluish-gray pigmentation of the nose, lips and eyelids.

Genetically brown in any variation or nuance.

Genetically brown nose, lips and eyelids.

Got tan on black, blue, brown dogs.

Growth is below the minimum.

Serious deviations from sexual dimorphism for males.

Initial puppy training.

Teaching your puppy to be clean
In order to teach a puppy not to get dirty in the house, firstly, you need to walk him as often as possible. It is absolutely necessary to quickly take the puppy outside immediately after eating, sleeping or playing for a long time, otherwise the puppy will definitely get dirty, and then only blame your laziness. As soon as he does his "deeds" on the street, he must be joyfully praised.
Old newspapers can be very helpful in teaching cleanliness. While the puppy is too small to walk, the owner takes a few old newspapers, wets the puddle made by the baby and puts these newspapers in an accessible and convenient place for subsequent cleaning. Further, the puppy is taught to walk only on newspapers. As soon as the puppy turns around in search of a suitable place, the owner transfers it to the newspapers. If the puppy tries to get dirty in another place, he can be punished, but only at the moment of committing the misconduct and in no case with a folded newspaper (a folded newspaper makes a pop on impact, and the fear of pops is not the best prospect for a future service dog). When it's time to teach the puppy to defecate on the street, the owner takes these reeking newspapers, puts them on the street, close to the house and leads the puppy there. If the puppy continues to get dirty in the house, then you should try to "catch him red-handed" more often. Puppy puddles at home should be wiped dry with a rag and treated with deodorizing compounds. Now in pet stores you can buy a special deodorant that makes the areas treated with it completely unattractive to the puppy.

Teaching a puppy not to take from the table
First of all, nothing should ever be given to a puppy from the table, but this is not enough. Sometimes you should deliberately leave something very attractive for the puppy on the very edge of the table and follow him imperceptibly from the next room. At the moment when the puppy tries to steal this piece, it is necessary to punish him painfully. This exercise should be repeated several times.
In order for a puppy or an adult dog not to beg near the table during dinner, it is not enough not to give her anything from the table (this is just one of the conditions), because occasionally accidentally dropped pieces of food, as well as pieces of food given by kind-hearted guests, will serve as an encouragement for begging. It is necessary from time to time to stage the situation: specifically drop or ask the guest to offer the dog a piece of food, and when the dog tries to take it from the table, then punish and send it strictly to the place.

Place training a puppy
The puppy in the house must be allocated and equipped with a place where he will rest, and also where he will be obliged to retire at the command of the owner. The place should be equipped where there are no drafts, where the dog does not interfere with anyone and where there is enough light. It should not be cramped, soft enough, easy to clean and preferably raised 20-30 cm above the floor - this is how dogs like it more.
If it is necessary to send the puppy to a place, the owner gives the command "Place!", takes the puppy in his arms and takes it to his place, where he encourages him in every possible way. If necessary, send the teenager to his place, if he does not obey, after the appropriate command, they take him by the skin on the scruff of the neck and take him to the place by force. If he leaves the place again, then the "procedure" should be repeated, but even more strictly. Particular attention and rigor require the puppy's attempt to settle down to rest on the couch or bed. Some owners tend to forgive this puppy, not seeing anything wrong with that. They do not have enough imagination to imagine a picture of how soon this baby will grow up, turn into a big dog and one day, after a walk in a dirty autumn sometimes, will do the same.
Also pay attention to the moment the puppy meets you upon arrival at the house. If you answer the puppy to all his jumps and attempts to lick with a running start in the face with delight, then when the dog grows up, he will simply sweep you away in a fit of greeting. Therefore, during the meeting, it is advisable to first strictly send to the place, and only then, calmly entering the room, you can chat with the waiting puppy.

Teaching a puppy to a collar and leash
Getting used to the collar usually does not cause any problems. The most it can take is to distract
his game. It is desirable to accustom a puppy to a leash gradually. First, during a walk, fasten a light, short leash, and let the puppy just run around with it. If this does not cause a protest, then you can take hold of the end of the leash and initially follow the dog in the direction chosen by it. And only then you can start to lead the puppy on a leash to where you want to go. Subsequently, after eight months, the puppy will have to be accustomed to a muzzle.

Teaching a puppy not to spoil things in the house
The puppy has a very developed need to gnaw something, so it must be provided with various toys that are safe for his health. Remember that a swallowed rag or, for example, pieces of a chewed rubber ball can cause intestinal blockage. It is advisable for a puppy to change toys more often so that they do not have time to get bored. If the puppy tries to gnaw on forbidden objects, then it must be immediately weaned from this. A puppy chewing on a chair leg should be hit hard and sent back to its place. If he gnaws on slippers, then he must be hit with the same slipper - the puppy should have the concept that if the slippers are "disturbed", then he will begin to "fight". You should only do this if you caught him at the "scene of the crime." Do not tempt the puppy - when you leave the house, put away all the shoes and objects that you would not want to see torn to pieces. You can also use the special "Antigryzin" preparations sold in pet stores: items treated with this aerosol lose all attractiveness for the puppy (but not always).
Sometimes the puppy tends to peel off the wallpaper or tear off the baseboard and gnaw on the wall. The reason for this is the need of a growing organism for calcium, but if measures are not taken in time, then this can develop into a bad habit. It is enough to give the puppy a piece of ordinary student chalk and he will stop chewing on the walls. It should be noted that, oddly enough, only natural chalk is suitable for this, the use of branded special dressings in this regard is somehow ineffective.
If a poorly educated teenage puppy or an adult dog, being alone, destroys everything in the apartment, like a Terminator, even gnaws through the doors, then more drastic measures are needed. For example, this method is suitable: having decided to go with someone from home, you close the dog in the room and continue to pack. Then you open the street door, but at the last moment you remain in the hallway, hiding with a whip in your hand, and your partner gives the dog the appearance that everyone is gone: locks the door from the outside, goes down in the elevator and goes outside. The dog most often begins to rout after 5-10 minutes. Just at that moment, the owner suddenly enters the room and punishes her painfully, chasing her into place severely. If the dog does not start destructive actions, then one should not, having entered her, begin to tell how good she is, on the contrary, in spite of everything, one should behave strictly so that the dog feels under constant strict control and does not even think about something. or spoil. Usually 3-5 repetitions are enough for the dog to learn what is required forever. You can also use this method for dogs that bark or howl alone.

Acquaintance of the puppy with the outside world
L.V. Krushinsky wrote: "On the initiative of I.P. Pavlov, experiments were carried out to study the influence of isolated conditions of education on the formation of defensive behavior of dogs. S.N. Vyrzhikovsky and F.M. Mayorov (1933) raised two groups of puppies : one - in conditions of complete freedom, the other in isolation. The grown-up dogs of both groups differed sharply in their behavior. The animals that grew up in isolation turned out to be cowardly. "

Thus, if you want your puppy to grow up to be a self-confident, proud and courageous, real service dog, so that he does not shy away from rumbling electric trains, fallen pots, fireworks and drunkards, then you need to provide him with a full dog life. As soon as the main vaccinations are done (hurry up to do this before 2.5 months), you need to start walking with the puppy. Gradually growing up, the puppy will have to get acquainted with all the diversity of the surrounding world: visit the forest, the field, the river, get acquainted with the properties of water, visit the training ground and the puppy brood, ride in a car, by train, see various pets and much, much more. . Walking is necessary for a puppy not only for the normal formation of the psyche, but also for the full physical development.

Team "Come"
Starting from the age of two or three months, a puppy should always have a treat in his pocket while walking with him. Give the puppy the command "Come to me!", crouching and spreading your arms to the sides, attract his attention. As soon as the puppy runs up, immediately reward him with joy, pet him and let him go for a walk. Repeat this every fifty or sixty meters. If the puppy does not fit, then in no case should you run after him, on the contrary, you should run away from him. After the command "Come to me" it is strictly forbidden to punish the dog or do anything unpleasant for it. This is an emergency braking command, its execution must be brought to full automatism; having heard it, the dog is obliged to forget about everything. Many dogs died under the wheels of cars only because they were poorly trained in this command.

One day I was walking near the road with my boxer Kolya z Grodu Mercurego, then still one year old, when suddenly a cat jumped out from under his very feet and rushed across the road just in front of the wheels of an oncoming bus. Kolya rushed after her, but, having heard the command "Come to me", he abruptly stopped in front of the road itself and complied with the demand. If he had not executed the command so impeccably, then death under the wheels would have been inevitable.

At the age of four months, when the puppy fits perfectly, you should begin to teach him to sit in front of the trainer or near his leg (depending on the requirements of the standards) and endurance. When the puppy runs up, give him the command "Sit!", help him take the right position, and then encourage him. When the puppy learns to sit down on its own, you can hold on to the treat, forcing the puppy to sit longer each time.

When training an adult dog, already spoiled by bad upbringing, it is often impossible to do without painful influences. For this purpose, in addition to the usual leather collar, the dog should also be put on a strict one, i.e. with spikes, and fasten a separate leash to each of them. During the walk, hold on to the leash hooked to the soft collar. Then, at a moment unexpected for the dog, give a command and after a moment sharply pull the leash attached to the strict collar, continue to quickly and strongly pull the dog towards you, stopping the slightest delay of the dog with sharp jerks. This exercise should be repeated many times, until complete automatism.
To train a dog to approach in a gesture (a gesture - a straightened right arm is raised to the side to shoulder level and then lowered to the hip without clap), it is necessary to first reinforce this gesture with a voice command and encourage execution.

"Sit" command
It is desirable to start training this team from 2.5-3 months. After placing the puppy near the left leg, take the leash in your right hand, give the command "Sit", then press the croup with your left hand, and pull up on the leash with your right hand, forcing you to sit down, and immediately reward. When the puppy begins to sit on command on its own, delay the reward longer, gradually increasing the shutter speed.
In the next step, step out in front of the puppy, controlling your posture and thwarting any attempts to change position with a strict "Sit" and hand position. In the future, gradually increase the distance from the puppy and the exposure time, as well as the pace of removal and return.
In order to teach the execution of a gesture command (the right hand is raised, the palm is turned towards the dog and bent at the elbow), it is necessary to first combine it with a voice command.

"Down" command
It is desirable to start training from 3-3.5 months. Sit the puppy near the left leg, give a command, then pull the leash down with your right hand, and press on the withers with your left. Some dogs lie down faster when a treat or fetch is in the right hand. Reward with treats and back pats while holding the dog in position. Further training is similar to the "Sit" command. (Gesture - a straightened right hand, raised forward, to shoulder level, palm down to the thigh).

"Stop" command
It is desirable to start training from 3.5-4 months. Sit the puppy near the left leg, then give the command "Stand", then, taking the left hand under the stomach, give the puppy a standing position, and then reward. When rewarding, stroke your left hand under the belly, at the same time, not allowing the puppy to change position. When working out this command, special attention must be paid to endurance. In the standing position, the dog is too inclined to take a step or two, and this should not be allowed, so the greatest attention should be given
practicing endurance, standing 2-3 meters in front of the dog. If the dog takes even a step forward, then you must immediately go up to it and, taking your right hand under the chest, and with your left hand under the stomach, strictly push it back to its original place. You can't forgive a single step! Further training is similar to the "Sit" command. (Gesture - the right hand is raised forward and bent at the elbow with the palm up).

Commands "Sit", "Lie down", "Stand", in the complex
For better assimilation of these commands in the future they are worked out in a complex. At the same time, the trainer controls the dog from a distance, at first small - 2-3 meters. The trainer gives commands in different sequences, either simultaneously with voice and gesture, or separately. Particular attention is paid to the fact that the dog correctly executes the commands, does not stray, does not change the required position, does not advance. This exercise is very difficult and should be started no earlier than 8 months.

Commands "Sit", "Lie down", "Stand", from movement
Moving at a pace with the dog on a leash near the leg, the trainer sharply gives the required command, very quickly fixes the animal in the desired position with his hands, continues to move for another three meters, after which he returns to the dog and encourages. Gradually, it is necessary to get the dog to stop immediately after the command, take the required position and not change it, no matter how far the trainer goes. The pace of the trainer's movement can be varied from slow walking to running. You can start gradually working out this exercise from 4-5 months.

"Next" team
Keeping the dog near the left leg on a sagging leash, you should start moving. At the same time, most of the leash is collected in the right hand, and the left hand intercepts the leash for about
30 cm from the collar. As soon as the dog, deviating in any direction, pulls on the leash, you should give the command "Next" and make a jerk. This jerk should be sensitive enough, because the dog simply ignores a weak jerk. If the dog pulls on the leash again, then you need to repeat the command and jerk. An indicator of the correctness of your actions is the leash between your left hand and the dog: if it is sagging, then everything is going right, but if it is taut, then you are not active and firm enough. At the same time, you can start practicing turns in motion, using them at the same time to teach the dog to walk alongside. If the dog lags behind or deviates to the left, then, having given the command "Near", it is necessary to turn sharply to the right and pull the dog to the leg. If the dog is ahead of or too close to the leg, then having given the command "Near", you should turn to the left and, bumping into the dog, push it hard enough with your knees.
If the trainer stops, then the dog must sit down by his leg, for this, at first, the “Near” command should be supplemented with the “Sit” command. Very effective is the use of a whip according to the so-called. intensive technique, but this technique is best used by professional trainers.
If the dog likes to fetch very much, then it is advisable to use it. With your left hand, keep the dog on a short leash, fixing its deviations, and with your right hand, manipulate the object, attracting its attention. Depending on the excitement and training of the dog, the object can be held in the hand or removed in the bosom, in whole or in part. As a reward, the dog occasionally receives a coveted item.
It is best to teach this command at the age of 4-5 months, while the dog is not too strong.

Team "Place"
Place the dog near the left leg with the “Lie down” command, then put any object (except for the retriever), for example, a bag, in front of its paws, point to it with your hand and give the “Place” command, then, having loosened the leash, move away to a distance of 3 -4 meters. After standing for some time, call the dog, encourage it and, after half a minute, pointing at the object with your right hand, give the command "Place". Immediately take the dog by the leash, run to take it to the place and quickly lay it down and reward it. Any delays in the performance of the dog are stopped by jerks on the leash, and the reward on the spot should be very joyful, but not provoking it to break out of a lying position. Gradually, it is necessary to bring the exposure in place to the maximum duration. It is sometimes useful to perform this exercise near the store, entering which you can observe the dog left on the street through the glass windows, remaining unnoticed and being able to quickly and timely stop violations of the command.

Dispatch forward followed by stacking
This is one of the hardest obedience skills. It is necessary to ensure that the dog moves away from the trainer in the strictly indicated direction at least 50 meters on the command "Forward", and fits on the first command "Lie down" at any moment of the run. Of course, the dog must already know the command "Down" perfectly.
The dog will gladly leave if he knows that there is always something interesting in the direction indicated by the trainer. The more interesting the detected object is for the dog, the more actively and farther the dog will move away and the faster he will learn this skill. From the send point, the object should not be visible. This could be a place marker (for dogs that excel at this skill), a fetching object (for fetching dogs), a hidden helper (for dogs that love to be held), or a member of the family (if that ends the activity and his presence will not interfere with the work). In addition, pushing the dog forward leading to object detection is an excellent preparatory exercise for learning to search for objects in the area.
The trainer with the dog on a leash takes a few steps in the right direction, then makes a guiding gesture and gives the command "Forward". In the first lessons, the object should not be far away, and the trainer runs up to it with the dog and joyfully encourages it for finding it. However, already at the 4-5th lesson, the object is found at 60-70 meters (this is how a margin of safety is created in the performance of the skill). During the run, the trainer abruptly puts the dog down with the "Lie down" command 2-3 times, fixing it for 20-30 seconds, and continues to move to the object.
At the next stage of training, the dog is allowed without a leash, and the trainer remains at the place where the command is given. Approximately in the middle of the way, he gives the command “Lie down” from the place, approaches the lying dog, encourages, then sits it down, encourages again. According to the standards, the exercise ends with the landing of the dog, however, even a trained dog must sometimes be able to continue jogging and detect an object, otherwise the activity of the work will decrease.

Submission of the fetching object
At the heart of fetching is the instinct of hunting small animals. Let's recall some of its elements: key stimuli - something small and removed; the critical period is 2.5-3 months, so it is best to start training at this age. Having fastened the puppy on a thin leash, roll a small ball or a children's mitten stuffed with rags in front of him, then let the puppy go, and when he grabs the object in his teeth, then attract him to you, gently correcting the movements with the leash. After he comes up, enthusiastically reward him for it. Already at the age of three months, it is realistic to teach the puppy the basics of the whole complex of fetching. However, the main thing to pay attention to during the critical period is to instill in the puppy an interest in a variety of objects: wet and dirty or icy, rags and sticks, plastic and glass bottles, metal objects, etc.
It is better to start training a grown up or adult dog like this: sit it near the leg and offer an object with your right hand, making attracting actions. If the dog took the object, then reward it with the “Walk” command and the game. Each time, achieve an increasingly longer retention of the object in the teeth, postponing the reward and
tormenting the object with exciting movements. At the next stage, you should give the dog an object and start moving nearby. If the dog confidently wears the object, then further it is necessary to work out turns in movement and stops with landing, from time to time encouraging the dog to play. In the next step, throw the object about two meters and send the dog with the "Fetch" command. After making sure that she has taken the object, turn around and go to the side, giving the command "Near", and when the dog settles down, joyfully encourage her. If this does not cause difficulties for the dog, then in the future you can proceed to the execution of the fetching complex completely: having seated the dog, throw the object, at first not far, after holding it, send the dog with the “Fetch” command, when she took the object, first help her with the “Fetch” commands, “To me,” and then, when she runs up and sits near her leg, after some endurance, encourage her. If the standards require landing with an object in front of the trainer, then it is necessary to give the command "Sit" in a timely manner and after a delay pick up the object. When practicing this skill, do not forget the second rule of K. Pryor: you cannot simultaneously practice bringing an object and holding it - all actions are practiced in turn.
If the dog tends to gnaw or ruffle the fetching object, then you should use objects that are not conducive to this: heavy or made of material that is not too pleasant for the dog.

Retrieval with complications
Having taught the dog to fetch, it should also be taught to perform this skill with some complications.
First, bring the item, passing through various barriers. Of course, only a dog that can easily overcome these obstacles should be taught this. At first, the dog must work on a leash and accompanied by his trainer, and later on independently, guided only by his commands.
Secondly, to bring an object thrown into dense thickets, provoking a search by smell. This is usually not a problem; only at first, in case of difficulties the dog needs some help.
Thirdly, the dog must be trained to fetch objects belonging to other people. To do this, you need to sit her down, gently take an object with a strange smell by one edge with two fingers of your right hand and, covering the dog's mouth with your left hand, bring the object 2-3 cm to her nose and give the command "Sniff". If the dog is interested in sniffing, then encourage the word "Good" (but not a treat!). After 5-6 seconds, remove the object, and after about 5 seconds, repeat the sniffing, then throw the object not far and send the dog after it. If such a porting does not cause difficulties, then the next time an object with a strange smell should be thrown into dense thickets in order to train the dog to search for a strange smell.

Teaching the dog not to take food from the ground and from strangers
If you are going to train your dog to track, search the area or pick a person, then this skill should be postponed until the dog has mastered all this. Of course, it is necessary to stop attempts to pick up all sorts of rubbish on the street, but targeted training is not worth it yet. When training in tracking work, rewards with treats from the ground are very often used, and when picking a person and searching the area, a dog is often rewarded with a treat from someone else's hands, no matter how seditious it may sound for staunch supporters of the Soviet school of training. If you are not going to teach your boxer anything like that, then you can start weaning bad habits at the age of 4-5 months.

So, training should begin with letting the dog walk on a leash in the area where the food was previously scattered. As soon as the dog reaches for food, sharply give the command "Fu" and pull hard on the leash. Thus, stop every attempt to take food. When the dog completely stops trying to pick up food while on a leash, it is necessary to continue training without it. Here you need to prove to the dog that you have "long arms". It is necessary to be able to punish the dog from a distance. To do this, you can use small pebbles stored in advance in your pocket, a slingshot (very effective if you know how to shoot from it), an electric collar (if it responds to your signals, and not to extraneous interference).
To start teaching the dog not to take food from strangers, you should take it to the leg on a leash and ask a stranger to offer it food. As soon as the dog reaches for food, give him the command "Fu" and pull sharply on the leash. The strength of the jerk should be such that the dog does not back away, but does not want to take food. In this way, stop all attempts to take food. An assistant should never punish a dog, all punishments are made only by the trainer himself, otherwise the dog will be frightened of strangers.

Training a dog to shoot
A puppy, as already mentioned, cannot be raised in greenhouse conditions, without leaving the apartment or in a cage isolated by a pet, because this will turn out to be a dog that will be scared not only of a shot, but of everything in a row. And, on the contrary, a puppy that grew up in an enriched environment, familiar with the noise of the city, traveling in various vehicles, with the roar of a passing train, becomes a brave service dog. When introducing a puppy to shooting for the first time, it is advisable to shoot far enough away, about 80 meters, at the moment when he is engaged in a fun game or following any firmly learned commands. If the dog has suspended the performance of actions, then it must be pushed to continue their performance. In the future, shots should be repeated closer and in different situations. Very rarely there are dogs with an innate panic fear of shots, loud sounds, and it is impossible to accustom them to a shot at all - such animals are unconditionally culled from breeding breeding.

This breed has been paired with natural selection for centuries.

Because of this, the animal differs with voluminous muscles and a fearless, balanced character, and the endurance of the Caucasian Shepherd Dog makes a companion and protector out of the dog even in harsh conditions.

But this is only a small fraction of the qualities due to which the Caucasian Shepherd Dog has established itself as a guard dog.

The nature of the breed demonstrates perseverance and determination, and high intelligence and restraint contribute to the rapid learning of the dog.

Shepherd dogs also have well-developed sensitivity and attentiveness. If the first prompts the pet to respond to stimuli, showing distrust of unfamiliar things or acquaintances, then the second contributes to the rapid assimilation of commands.

NOTE!

Mindfulness is one of the success factors in dog training, which affects the ability to focus on the owner and follow his instructions.

However, the difficulty lies in choosing the right training method. Despite good learning ability, the Caucasian Shepherd Dog is not devoid of ingenuity, which often does not play on the side of the owner.

Where to start education?

The general training course (OKD) comes at 8-12 months of life and mainly on the training ground. The course of education or home training begins from the first day, as the puppy gets into a new home.

Dog education begins from the moment the puppy adapts to a new place and learns. Training is introduced gradually and, on average, classes do not need to take a long time. Pressure and pressure of the Caucasian Shepherd Dog is unacceptable, as this will prevent the puppy from reaching an understanding with the owner.

Training a Caucasian Shepherd Dog at home comes down to learning simple commands:

• "Sit";
• "To me";
• "Place";
• "It is forbidden";
• "Ugh";
• "Beside";
• "Stand".

If the owner is inexperienced or not confident in his abilities, then the advice of a dog handler will not be superfluous, which will help organize the learning process and give effective advice.

Each student should create an individual course or method of training. As a rule, the training system depends on the characteristics of the dog and the duration of mastering the skill. At first, the choice of method comes down to identifying the student's stimulus, which will have an impact and induce the shepherd dog to the right action. However, methods, whether using a "stick" or "carrot", in most cases are doomed to failure from the very beginning. Over time, the Caucasian completely ceases to pay attention to the commands of the hosts, and therefore the only way to achieve a result is to establish contact using other methods of influence (facial expressions, voice, intonation, jerking the leash).

What can be taught?

High intelligence is one of the advantages of the breed, not to mention the protective qualities of the Caucasian Shepherd Dog. To protect the owner or territory, the dog does not even need commands. And with good training, the shepherd will become a worthy employee in more than one service.

The Caucasian Shepherd Dog is predisposed to:

• protection (protective guard service);
• protection (protection of territory or property);
• search (search for things, people, animals, prohibited items, etc.);
• accompaniment (guide dog);
• search and rescue service;
• convoy and patrol;
• delivery of goods.

The Caucasian Shepherd Dog is easily OKD. If the owner has a desire to teach the dog freestyle or another sport, then mastering the basic skills for a shepherd dog will not be difficult, and agility plays the role of entertainment rather than hard work.

Caucasian Shepherd Dogs also show good trainability in competitions in:

• dog frisbee (catching a flying disc);
• fast track (overcoming barriers with subsequent detention);
• sports grazing (sheep management);
• agility (speed overcoming barriers);
• pitch and go (quick fetch offering);
• obidiensu (obedience);
• dog pulling (tug of war);
• flyball (overcoming the obstacle course to the flybox and back);
• freestyle (a combination of obedience exercises and tricks to music).

Basic rules of training

Compared to dogs of other breeds, whose training begins on the site, and the acquired skills are transferred home, the training of the Caucasian Shepherd Dog is advised to be carried out in reverse.

How to properly train a Caucasian Shepherd Dog:

• the first stages of training come down to establishing a relationship between the owner and the animal;
• learning techniques goes from simple to complex;
• when forming specific skills, it is advised to follow a strict sequence, since the development of some habits will become the foundation for others;
• the development of several techniques contributes to the acceleration and quality of the learning process;
• learning a new technique is advised to conduct classes at first;
• The recommended time for training is recognized 2-3 hours before and after feeding, in the morning and in the evening.

How to teach basic commands?

The development of the command "Sit!" It is advised to go for a walk with a short leash. Having voiced the order, the trainer puts pressure on the area between the croup and the lower back of the animal, while pulling the leash up and back until the command is executed. If the lesson is performed for the first time, then the waiting time for the owner from the dog is reduced to 1-2 minutes.

The execution of the gesture command is carried out with the same short leash, but this time the owner stands opposite the Caucasian at a distance of two steps. The leash is pulled with the left hand, when the right hand, after the word "Sit!", hits it from the bottom up.

In teaching the instruction "Lie down!" the trainer stands in front of the dog and presses on the withers, moving the front paws forward. This position is held for 10-20 seconds, after which it is encouraged. Unlike the previous command, here, as a gesture, a hit on the leash from top to bottom appears as a gesture.

Training the team "Fu!" carried out exclusively near the object of irritation of the animal (thing, animal, bird, etc.). As soon as the dog makes an attempt to pounce on the object, the owner gives an order and sharply pulls the leash towards himself. The correct execution of an order is stimulated by a reward.

Training for the team "Place!" comes after the execution of the decree "Lie down!". In the meantime, the owner leaves a familiar object in front of the dog (for example, a muzzle) and steps back 5-7 steps, repeating the command. After 1 minute, the shepherd calls to the owner and receives a share of the reward before the trainer exclaims "Place!" and will not lead the Caucasian to the abandoned object, continuing to keep it on a short leash. As the command is taught, the distance between the dog and the owner increases.

Before giving the command “Voice!”, the owner sits the pet in front of him and steps on the leash, depriving the shepherd of the opportunity to jump. He takes out a treat, letting the animal sniff it, and gives a decree. The dog has no choice but to bark.

How to train guard duty?

The training of a Caucasian in guard duty occurs immediately after the development of obedience lessons.

In the service of the Ministry of Internal Affairs, dogs are trained not only by the ZKS (protective guard service), but also develop the ability to take a trail. In addition to protecting people, animals, things, dogs learn to detain and find things by smell.

Consider the development of the protective qualities of a shepherd dog. Team "Guard!" comes after "Place!" and "Lie down!". During the time the dog is "on duty", a distrustful attitude towards strangers is formed, which becomes a fundamental factor in the development of the animal's vigilance.

The training process begins from the moment the command “Lie down!” Is given. The owner lowers a familiar thing in front of the animal and gives the command “Guard!”. All this time, the trainer is next to the dog or slowly walks nearby, without approaching the thing. Aggression of the animal is stopped by the command "Place!". Then a third person is allowed to train, who will attempt to take away the protected thing, in which the dog should interfere. But without trying to leave the "post".

Training scheme

Rules of conduct are established from the first day the pet appears in the house. Training starts with remembering your pet's own nickname and instantly responding to it. After that, the commands “Walk!” and "To me!". Every correct response is rewarded.

From three months the puppy is taught prohibitions - "You can't!" or "Fu!".

The training of the first teams falls on 4-6 months of the life of a shepherd dog. Decree "Next!" comes after the development of the commands "Sit!", "Place!", "Lie down!".

NOTE!

It is advised to introduce the Caucasian Shepherd Dog with a muzzle for the sixth month. This will not be an easy step, because dogs of this breed are freedom-loving, so it is advised to wear a muzzle for a short time and without the use of violence from the owner.

Basic Mistakes

Mistakes in dog training:

• lack of an individual approach;
• there is no specific sequence in the development of techniques and organization of training sessions;
• crossing the processes of inhibition and excitation (violation of conditioned reflex activity);
• overtraining (dog fatigue);
• using the wrong stimuli;
• underestimation of the impact on the dog of other irritants;
• wrong combination of conditioned and unconditioned stimuli;
• abuse of a strict collar (parfors);
• erroneous intonation in the voice when issuing commands;
• repeated repetition of the command "Fu!";
• incorrect submission of instructions;
• inappropriate encouragement.

How much do classes with a cynologist cost?

At the first lesson, the cynologist gets acquainted with the pet, studying the characteristics of the character, behavior of the animal and the level of relationship between the pet and the owner.

Types of training:

• individual sessions;
• group lessons with other dogs;
• training with overexposure at the cynologist.

Let's consider the average cost of providing services with a cynologist's home visit:

Remember that a Caucasian is a natural leader who is able to make decisions alone. The wolfhound will not make concessions out of politeness, so it is important from puppyhood to show the dog a place in the family hierarchy.

Useful video

Secrets of how to raise and maintain a Caucasian Shepherd Dog:

In contact with

Raising a Caucasian Shepherd requires considerable effort on the part of the owner, as they have a tough and wayward character. But it is difficult to find a more dedicated defender, able to neutralize any threat to the life of the owner or the safety of his property.

The wrong approach to education can create problems for the owner or passersby if he decides to walk his pet. But having become acquainted with the peculiarities of the upbringing of the Caucasian Shepherd Dog and teaching it the skills of behavior on the street and the course of obedience, you can get a really reliable defender.

Training principles

It is not uncommon for puppies to be self-willed as early as 3 months old, refusing to give away toys or food from a bowl, so training should begin from this age. Given the characteristics of the breed, people without experience with dogs and who do not have the necessary knowledge are not recommended to buy males, since they are more rigid in nature.

It is better to start acquaintance with this breed by buying a puppy for a bitch. They have a more docile nature and are less strong, making it much easier to train a dog. In the first lessons, be sure to use the services of a trainer who can teach the owner to apply basic commands and help establish contact with the pet.

Consider the features that need to be considered in order to properly raise a Caucasian Shepherd Dog.

Independence

Caucasians have an extraordinary mind, allowing them to independently assess the situation and draw their own conclusions. They can be subdued, but in order to make them fall in love, a lot of effort should be made.

The need for psychological contact

From a young age, communication is established with the baby through games with him, going for walks, tasty treats as a reward for following commands.

Security qualities

Every Caucasian from birth knows how to protect, and a person will never convince him that he understands protection better. Therefore, the level of control over the pet rises to the level where it will unquestioningly carry out the specified commands.

Knowing how to raise a Caucasian Shepherd Dog, a year later, the owner will receive a reliable and devoted guard who behaves calmly on the street and is able to protect a person at any time.

early education

A puppy should be purchased at 2 months of age, after the quarantine period has elapsed and all vaccinations have provided complete protection against rabies and infectious diseases. But already at home, you can establish psychological contact. On the first walks, you can perform the simplest exercises.

Attention

The owner addresses the puppy, calling his nickname, attracts attention in any way possible and, making sure that he is looking at the person, treats him with a treat.

Walking on a leash

Often the training of the Caucasian Shepherd Dog begins precisely with teaching the little wolfhound the simplest things. Sometimes wayward Caucasians categorically refuse to put up with a collar and fall on their backs in order not to follow the leash. You can eliminate this phenomenon by offering a treat for moving after the owner and performing short powerful jerks that tear the puppy from its place and force it to take several steps.

Recall

In order for the baby to react to the owner and come up on demand, an appropriate exercise should be carried out from early walks. The owner will need a long leash and a treat. After waiting for the baby to move away, the owner attracts his attention, uses any phrase to call and calls the nickname (the “Come to me!” command is performed differently). If there is no reaction, you can make short but noticeable jerks, step by step bringing the puppy to you.

Even with such minimal skills, a wolfhound will be able to acquire a culture of behavior on the street and learn basic skills.

positive and negative reinforcement

Professional cynologists use this concept, noting the nature of the impact of a person aimed at obtaining one or another result. Reinforcement is an action performed in response to a particular movement of the dog in order to reinforce it or prevent its repetition in the future. There are two types.

positive

If the wolfhound correctly executed the command, demonstrated the required behavior, it can be rewarded with treats or praise. Caucasian Shepherds are social dogs, they are strongly attached to the owner, so it is often enough to praise him, stroking and patting his withers to demonstrate your positive attitude towards his behavior.

negative

Shouting, slapping, hitting, or host-induced fear serve as negative reinforcers. The pet remembers that if he attacks passers-by without a command, pulls the leash forward, picks up foreign objects or barks in the street, this will certainly be followed by a negative reaction from the person. Such measures of influence are not used in the preparation for agility, but they are mandatory for the training of guard and service dogs.

Raising a puppy of a young age should be carried out without negative reinforcement, since his psyche is not yet formed and can be easily injured. But representatives of this breed are distinguished by a low pain threshold, so light slaps are more offensive to them than painful. It is allowed to punish the baby until the age of 4 months by taking it by the scruff of the neck and shaking it lightly to calm it down.

General course of obedience

After you manage to teach a Caucasian puppy the basic rules of behavior, you can begin to learn the basic commands that will be needed while walking along busy streets and passing the course “Dog in the City”.

Sit

The right hand with a delicacy is brought to the nose, and then rises up. Short jerks are made with the left hand so that the leash is directed parallel to the ground, or the palm must be placed on the croup, slightly pressing down.

Lie

The right hand with the treat is placed down until the nose almost rests on the floor, then it is taken away from the dog forward. The pet must not be allowed to move from its place. The only way for him to get a treat is to lie down.

Beside

Exercises are performed as a whole complex, reminiscent of drill training. The owner moves forward steadily, turning at pre-marked corners, not allowing the pet to move further than arm's length in any direction. Performed from eight months.

Excerpt

The wolfhound should remain in one place in a sitting or lying position while the owner moves freely around or out of sight. At the first lesson, you need to encourage the dog after five seconds of exposure, moving no further than a meter, then the exercises can be complicated.

Caucasian Shepherd puppies need to be socialized from the first walks. During the period of growing up, he must get used to being among a large number of people, large trucks, wearing a muzzle. To do this, it is enough to learn how to raise a Caucasian Shepherd puppy and teach him the basic commands according to the Russian General Training Course(OKD).

Special training

To turn a wolfhound into a manageable guard dog, a general training course will not be enough. Patriotic training system entitled "Protection Guard Service" comes from military training methods.

Today it is being developed by dog ​​breeders who cultivate working qualities in service breeds. During the ZKS, special skills are developed.

Picking someone else's thing

The dog recognizes a person by the smell on his clothes or on objects carried by him.

Security of things

The skill allows you to develop basic protective qualities, the pet protects the item entrusted to it.

Detention, guarding and escort of the defendant

An assistant in a protective suit simulates an attack or penetration into a protected area.

Search of the territory

The dog is looking for another person or certain objects in a certain area.

Many of these skills are already embedded in the subconscious of the Caucasian Shepherd Dog, as the required working qualities have been cultivated in the breed for centuries. Proper upbringing and care will identify them, put them at the service of a person and provide the required level of control.

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