The very first mushroom dishes are history. His Majesty Soup: the history of appearance. Useful properties of mushroom soup

Meeting with a mushroom is always fraught with danger - by eating it, you can get an incomparable gastronomic pleasure or get poisoned. This halo of unpredictability and deceit has been surrounding mushrooms for millions of years, because the mushroom kingdom is one of the oldest. The same halo predetermined the history of the relationship between the fungus and man, in which there is only one step from love to hate. Mushrooms hid, people hunted them, and mushrooms became trophies, and people became winners. But at the last moment, the mushroom dealt a mortal blow and plunged the person. Even ancient Greek and Roman writers and historians reported numerous fatal mushroom poisonings. The Roman emperor Claudius, who did not get along with his wife Agrippina and, unlike her, did not know how to recognize edible "sores" from pale grebes, was far from the only titled victim of mushrooms. It was their fault that the French king Charles VI, Pope Clement VII and many others died. Even then, scientists tried to explain the nature of mushroom poison. For a long time there was an official version that the mushroom absorbs toxic substances from its environment. The same circumstance explained the rapid growth of mushrooms near snake holes, garbage dumps, cemetery fences or thickets of poisonous plants. Ecologically clean forests and meadows, where poisonous mushrooms, for some reason, also grow by leaps and bounds, were not taken into account. It is no coincidence that the most terrible spectacle of the 20th century was called nothing more than a nuclear mushroom. As a result, people have become fearful of mushrooms and still often refuse them altogether so as not to put themselves at risk. And all from a lack of knowledge ...
Obviously, the fear of mushrooms is the same prejudice as the fear of thunder or a solar eclipse. It is enough to study them to stop being afraid. For this, there is mycology - the science of fungi, which is in no way inferior to zoology or botany.
Like animals and plants, fungi are divided into classes, subclasses, families, as well as orders and groups. Classes of marsupials and basidials, families of schizophyllous, hygrophoric, fistulinic, orders of boletes, hypocranes - an ordinary mushroom picker walking around with a basket through the forest would be horrified if he knew what jungle he had climbed into. Of course, an ordinary gourmet who decides to come into contact with mushrooms does not have to know mycology perfectly. But the basic information is simply necessary for him, so that communication turns out to be pleasant and unobtrusive.
What are mushrooms? This is a huge group of organisms that has spread all over the globe - on land, in water, in mountains, in forests, deserts, seas and oceans, in the Moscow suburbs and in the Grand Canyon. In total, there are about 100 thousand species of mushrooms, and according to some sources - at least one and a half million. Mushrooms feed on organic matter, that is, plant and animal remains, and even cells of living organisms. The body of the fungus consists of the thinnest threads called hyphae. These same hyphae form a mycelium, which absorbs nutrients with its entire surface. This way of feeding makes the fungus not like animals, plants, or people.
At the same time, most fungi reproduce sexually, with the help of spores, by the fusion of gametes, or by the fertilization of an immobile egg by a motile spermatozoon, which in a fungus is called an antheridium. Whether mushrooms can experience attraction and passion for each other, mycology is not known. But the fact that a male mushroom does not look like a female mushroom is for sure. It is the nuances of sexual reproduction that determine the classification of fungi into main classes. Some have rounded bags for this, others have cylindrical basidia, pinnate or flagella, and so on. In addition, mushrooms often live in families.
The question of the origin of mushrooms has long remained a mystery. The suddenness with which the mushroom suddenly appeared on the surface of the earth, in the grass, on the bark of a tree or an old stump, always struck a person. They tried to connect this mysterious appearance with a lightning strike, the action of dew, and the vapors of decaying organic matter. Or just a game of nature. Mushrooms were attributed both diabolical and divine origin. So, the German "Travnik" at the end of the 16th century pointed out: Mushrooms are called the children of the gods, because they are born without seeds, not like others. And the French botanist of the 18th century Veyan assured that mushrooms were specially invented by the devil in order to disrupt the harmony of nature and drive researchers to despair. On reflection, the scientists nevertheless ceased to despair and attributed mushrooms to the class of plants. But over time, it turned out that mushrooms also have signs characteristic of animals. Yes, mushrooms cannot see, make sounds, communicate with each other, bite, fly, swim and spawn. But they completely lack chlorophyll, which is necessary for plants, they form urea in the process of metabolism and do not know how to synthesize organic matter from inorganic, as daisies and buttercups do. The modern science of mycology has proven that fungi originated from primitive single-celled organisms that lived in water. They appeared in the oldest geological Archean era - about a billion years ago. At first, these were parasitic fungi that lived off plants and animals. Gradually, the mushroom world developed and already 76 million years ago it was finally formed, that is, it existed and looked the same as it does now, in all its diversity.
Its scientific name "mycota? mushrooms received from the Greek name of champignons - "mikos". Thus, already the ancient Greeks knew edible mushrooms - champignons, truffles, morels. The same is evidenced by the writings of Theophrastus, dated to the 3rd century BC. e. Following him, Roman authors of the 1st century AD wrote about mushrooms. e. led by Pliny the Elder, who very reasonably divided all mushrooms into two classes - edible and inedible. And the Greek physician Dioscorides, in his descriptions, especially praised the larch tinder fungus, which helps to get rid of gastrointestinal torment and disorders.
At about the same time, that is, at the beginning of our era, the ancient Maya Indian tribes were already praising mushrooms in their handwritten books with might and main. Rock paintings of mushrooms, strongly resembling spaceships, belong to the same time. For the sake of objectivity, it must be said that the ancient Indians so highly valued the local teonanacatl mushrooms not at all for their ability to prevent diarrhea or alleviate stomach cramps, but for those beautiful hallucinations that they caused in the human mind. And here is the time to talk about the mystical or, if you like, narcotic properties of the mushroom. Apparently, it was this property that provided countless mushroom poisonings and deaths. As soon as a person realized that by eating a certain mushroom, one can relax and get pleasure, turning into ecstasy, he went down a crooked path. On this path there were both edible and poisonous mushrooms. And sooner or later there was a mistake or just an overdose. Chukchi shamans, Scythian nomads, and even ancient Vikings used fly agaric as a dope before the battle to drive themselves into a trance. For the same reasons, the fly agaric began to be depicted as a humanoid deity. That is why in the Middle Ages - a period of desperate and partly useless struggle with obscurantism - mushrooms began to be considered evil spirits. Mushrooms that grew in a circle in meadows and forest clearings were called "witch rings", they determined the location of the next Sabbath. The grass inside the mushroom "dance", as a rule, turned out to be stunted - through the fault of the witches, of course. It was believed that cattle that nibbled on such grass might die. And the thought of eating mushrooms ourselves brought the gloomy sons of the Middle Ages into a state of complete stupor.
In the Renaissance, mushrooms finally began to be studied. There were books describing mushrooms and even their first classifications, which went far ahead of Pliny's "kill - will not kill." The most successful during this period was the Austrian botanist Clusius, who at the end of the 16th - beginning of the 17th century compiled the “Code of Clusius”, where he described as many as 100 species of mushrooms and depicted them in detailed drawings. Nevertheless, the origin and nature of mushrooms remained a mystery to humans until the 19th century.
In 1729, an Italian scientist with a mushroom surname, Micheli, discovered spores in cap mushrooms and identified them as "seeds" that help reproduction. Using a microscope that appeared at the beginning of the 17th century, Micheli studied mushroom "seeds" and even made out some kind of "flowers" from which these "seeds" supposedly form. The term "spores" was introduced half a century later by the German botanist Hedwig. But Micheli discovered the separation of spores from the body of the fungus and their germination. This scientist bore his name with honor and did everything he could for mycology. The French botanist Dutrochet around the same time proved that the mushrooms we see are only fruits that have grown from thread-like roots hidden underground. Thus, the fungus was discovered. Before that, botanists called the mycelium "byssus" and considered it an independent mushroom.
The first monumental classification of mushrooms was made at the beginning of the 19th century by the Dutch physician Persoon and the Swedish botanist Fries, who compiled a whole two-volume dedicated to mushrooms. Some of the names and definitions given by them are used in mycology to this day. And from 1821 to 1832 Friese's fundamental book "The System of Mycology" was published, where several thousand mushrooms are mentioned. As mushrooms are studied, the mushroom menu expands by trial and error, so that by the 20th century there are already an unimaginable number of edible mushrooms and they all find their use in a frying pan, in an oven, in a saucepan or in a tub.
In Russian, the word "mushrooms" was established only at the beginning of the 18th century. Prior to this, the mysterious inhabitants of forests and fields, not similar to animals and flowers, were called "lips". The word "mushrooms" appeared at the end of the 15th century and was applied only to tubular mushrooms with humpbacked convex hats. It is believed that this word came from the Old Russian word "grb", that is, a hump. Then both names were used, but all mushrooms were called “lips”, and only some species were called “mushrooms”. By the way, in Siberia you can still hear the word “lips” in conversation about mushrooms, as they call tinder fungi growing on trees here. In addition to the fact that the mushroom excites the imagination - and not only the fly agaric, endowed with psychotropic substances, but also any other representative of the mysterious world of "mycota", giving rise to many questions and doubts - it is also very tasty. Today's menu of mankind cannot be imagined without mushrooms. And it is simply impossible to find a proper comparison or replacement for them. Mushrooms contain a lot of protein, so they are very nutritious, as well as fats, minerals, iron, calcium, zinc, iodine, potassium, phosphorus. Moreover, in hats, which, so to speak, are closer to the head, there is always more phosphorus than in the legs.
However, do not forget about toxins - poisonous substances, from which the historical reputation of mushrooms has suffered so much. These toxins can affect a variety of organs of the human body - not only the gastrointestinal tract, but also the central nervous system, which the Mayans and Scythians were well aware of. Having eaten a fly agaric or some kind of tiger row, a person can cry or laugh for two hours in a row, be unconscious or in the thrall of hallucinations. However, to achieve fatal poisoning with neurotropic toxins, you need to eat 3-4 kilograms of red fly agaric in one sitting. And this, you see, few are capable of. The most dangerous are the toxins of the pale toadstool and the smelly fly agaric, which affect the liver, kidneys and heart and invariably lead a person to death. The biggest danger of these toxins is that the first two days they do not make themselves felt with the help of any symptoms. When the first signs of poisoning appear, it is already too late, because by this time the internal organs are mortally affected. The most insidious among this group is the orange-red cobweb toxin, which manifests its effect only two weeks after the fatal dinner and affects the kidneys to death, and then the entire musculoskeletal system. However, mushrooms are capable of not only killing, but also reviving. For example, the same larch tinder fungus, which was sung by the ancient Greek Dioscorides 19 centuries ago, was considered a traditional cure for tuberculosis until the present century and even served as a profitable commodity for Russia. In 1870 alone, Russia exported 8 tons of dried tinder fungus to Europe. Even during the time of Vladimir Monomakh, the healing properties of the "birch fungus" - chaga were discovered. They even tried to treat Monomakh with chaga for lip cancer, as historians believe. Russian "Healers" of the 18th century advised rubbing frostbitten parts of the body with porcini mushroom extract. In Europe in the Middle Ages, morel juice was used to treat eye diseases. Huge medical resources of mushrooms are fully used in China, Japan, Tibet. Shiitake and winter mushroom are especially popular. Shiitake lowers cholesterol levels in the blood, and has recently been found to have anti-tumor abilities and can even fight AIDS. The winter fungus also retards the growth of cancers. In Japan, this mushroom is grown on farms, annually about 100 thousand tons. By the way, it can also be found in Russia under the name "winter mushroom" - this is the latest mushroom, it grows until November and does not die even under snow. And the Japanese mushroom "name-ko" is also used against cancer and various viral diseases.
Judas' ear, a cartilaginous fungus that grows on fallen trees, is specially grown in the Far East to fight throat diseases.
The healing properties of "veselka" are known - a tincture of these dry mushrooms heals wounds. In the Urals, they treat rheumatism with a tincture of “round sarcosoma” or red fly agaric, of course, using it not inside, but as a rub. White fungus is considered an excellent prophylactic against gastrointestinal diseases and even against malignant tumors. Mushrooms growing under spruce trees are especially effective. Butterdish treats gout, camelina retards the growth of tubercle bacillus. Greenfinch prevents blood clotting. Autumn mushroom is used as a mild laxative. Oyster mushroom has anti-viral and anti-cancer properties. An infusion of chaga helps with ulcers, gastritis, colitis and has a general tonic effect. As for cancerous tumors, chaga can affect them only at the earliest stage of the disease. Puffball prevents the development of leukemia, and in the UK since the last century this magnificent delicacy mushroom has been used against smallpox, urticaria and laryngitis. All these properties of mushrooms - contradictory, mutually exclusive and difficult to explain - will not soon receive an exhaustive scientific explanation. They still remain a mystery to us. And yet, there is no need to be afraid of black truffle sauce, fried "syangu" with beef and dry white soup. Of course, mushrooms are not us and we are not mushrooms. But why, then, being in a gloomy forest, a person always feels an inexplicable excitement?

Mushroom dishes

Mushrooms are a completely unique creation of nature. Compared to other plants, they contain more proteins, which brings them closer to animal products. Their cell walls contain a special substance - chitin, which is not found in other plants, and it is found only in the shells of crustaceans and elytra beetles, not a single plant contains so many nitrogenous extractives that give the decoctions a completely unique taste and aroma. And when heated, they behave not like other vegetable products, but rather like meat: as soon as the temperature reaches 60–70 ° C, a large amount of juice suddenly begins to stand out from them. Therefore, the word "fry" in relation to mushrooms takes on a completely different meaning - it is rather a stew in its own juice.

In the XVI-XVII centuries. there were much more forests on the territory of Russia than now, the stocks of mushrooms in them were huge, so they have always been an important help in the peasant table. Yes, and in the economy of the townspeople played an important role.

There are few mentions of mushroom dishes in ancient manuscripts: boiled, baked, steamed (stewed) mushrooms. In the list of dishes of the royal table and the boyars, mushrooms are rarely mentioned, but in the menu of monks and the higher clergy there are many "lean" cold appetizers and hot mushroom dishes.

Ancient dishes of mushrooms

The largest number of mushroom dishes is named in the "Expenditure Book" of Patriarch Adrian. In addition to cold appetizers, 14 hot dishes are mentioned. Among them: heated mushrooms with onions and butter, heated mushrooms and milk mushrooms, mushrooms in dough, dumplings with mushrooms, baked mushrooms, milk mushrooms and Japanese mushrooms, fresh salted mushrooms with onions, fresh boiled mushrooms with onions, mushrooms with onions and eggs.

No. 540. Dried mushrooms in dough. Here is how they are prepared E. Molokhovets: medium-sized dried white mushrooms are selected, soaked, boiled in the same water without salt; when they are ready, they take it out, wash it, let it drain, trim it with a knife, lay it on the table, salt it, and roll it in flour; 15 minutes before frying, they are dipped in batter, taken out, rolled in grated wheat bread (crumbs), put in a pan with a large amount of heated lean or cow's ghee and fried on both sides.

The dough is used pancake or make a special one. To do this, salt, a little vegetable oil are added to the wheat flour, diluted with hot water, whipped with a spatula, whipped proteins are added.

Wheat flour 200, sunflower oil 20, water 150–200, proteins 5 pcs.

Proteins were not added to fasting, but unleavened dough for pancakes was used. Probably, it was these mushrooms in the dough that were prepared for Patriarch Adrian.

No. 541. Honey mushrooms with onion and egg. Honey mushrooms are sorted, washed, boiled in salted water, discarded and cut. Melt the butter in a saucepan or frying pan, fry the flour on it, pour in the broth in which the mushrooms were cooked, stir, put the chopped mushrooms, add salt, pepper and bring to a boil. Topped with chopped hard-boiled eggs.

Fresh mushrooms 600, melted butter 60, wheat flour 30, mushroom broth 300, salt, pepper, eggs 2 pcs.

No. 542. Mushroom dumplings. Dry mushrooms are washed, soaked for 2-3 hours, boiled in the same water without salt, discarded, finely chopped and fried with onions.

Pour flour into the dishes, add water, salt, eggs and stir well. The fried mushrooms are added to the resulting dough and mixed. A tourniquet about 1 cm thick is rolled out of this mass, cut at an angle into rhombuses and boiled in boiling salted water. The resulting dumplings are taken out, put in a bowl and poured with hot broth or sour cream.

Dry mushrooms 50, wheat flour 200, egg 1 pc., enough water to make a thick dough (about 100 g).

No. 543. Mushrooms white and old-fashioned red. Mushrooms are sorted, the skin is peeled from the legs, cut into slices, rolled in flour, put in a pot or other dish, covered with a lid, stewed, and when the mushrooms give juice, the lid is opened and the juice is allowed to evaporate. Then add a piece of butter, lightly fried onion, a bunch of parsley and dill stalks, salt, pepper and stir-fry the mushrooms. A bunch of greens is taken out, water or sour cream is added and allowed to boil several times so that the sauce thickens.

Mushrooms (white and boletus) 600, onion 50, oil 50, flour 20, sour cream 200–300, salt, pepper.

No. 544. Mushrooms in breadcrumbs. They take large porcini mushrooms or boletus mushrooms, boil for 5-10 minutes, dry with a towel, moisten in a mixture of eggs with milk or in beaten eggs alone, roll in breadcrumbs, fry in oil, take out, let the oil drain and heat in the oven

No. 545. Monastic style fried mushrooms. Ryzhik wash, put in cold water, bring to a boil and recline. Then they are salted, mixed and each camelina is rolled in flour. In a frying pan, vegetable oil is strongly heated, prepared mushrooms and chopped onions are placed and fried for several minutes, turning over. Put the mushrooms in the pan not in a slide, but in one row.

Camelina (for 2 servings) 300, onion 50, oil 100.

No. 546. Mushrooms, milk mushrooms in a pot. Mushrooms are sorted, cleaned, washed, put in boiling water and boiled for 1–2 minutes. Then they are thrown back, put on a table or board, salted, rolled in flour, fried in a pan on both sides. Fried mushrooms are placed in a pot, poured with sour cream, sprinkled with grated wheat bread on top and baked in an oven or oven.

No. 547. Mushrooms with vegetables in pot. Slices of tomatoes, fried mushrooms, fried potatoes with onions are placed in layers in a clay pot. Everything is poured with sour cream, sprinkled with grated cheese and baked in the oven.

Per serving: fresh mushrooms 100, tomatoes 150, potatoes 100, onions 50, sour cream 100, cheese 20.

No. 548. Mushroom omelet. White mushrooms or champignons are cleaned, washed; parsley root is rubbed and stewed together with chopped mushrooms in oil until cooked, cooled. Add wheat flour, egg yolks, salt and mix. Lastly, whipped egg whites are added. The mixture is poured into a well-greased pan and baked in the oven.

Per serving: fresh white mushrooms or champignons 150, parsley root 20, butter 10, eggs 2 pcs., wheat flour 30, salt.

No. 549. Mushroom pudding. Salted or boiled fresh (dry) mushrooms are passed through a meat grinder along with browned onions. Add softened butter, egg yolks, wheat crackers or flour, salt. Whisk egg whites into a fluffy foam, mix gently. The mixture is laid out in a form greased with oil and sprinkled with breadcrumbs and baked in the oven or steamed (40-50 minutes). In the latter case, the form is not sprinkled with breadcrumbs. Serve the pudding hot, pour over with butter or sour cream sauce.

Per serving: salted or boiled mushrooms 150, butter 20, onion 20, egg 1 pc., wheat crackers 60, mushroom broth 100, salt, pepper.

No. 550. Mushroom meatballs. Boiled mushrooms are finely chopped or passed through a meat grinder, combined with finely chopped browned onions. Add wheat crackers, sour cream, raw eggs, salt, pepper and mix thoroughly. The mass is formed into balls the size of a walnut, rolled in breadcrumbs or flour and fried in oil. Meatballs are poured with sour cream or sour cream sauce with tomato and stewed for 10-12 minutes. Meatballs can be baked with sauce in the oven.

Per serving: dry mushrooms 25, onion 100, crackers 30, sour cream 20, eggs 1 pc., salt, pepper.

Modern mushroom dishes

Ancient mushroom dishes (stewed mushrooms, mushrooms in sour cream, mushrooms with onions, etc.) have survived to this day, but in the 18th century. new, more satisfying mushroom and potato dishes appeared, and the methods of preparing old dishes changed somewhat.

Any mushrooms are first carefully sorted, the legs are cleaned, soaked, cleaned of contaminants and washed. In russula, butter, champignons, the skin and film are removed. Aspen mushrooms and champignons should be immediately placed in slightly acidified water so that they darken less. (Recipes are for 2 servings.)

No. 551. Mushrooms in sour cream. Mushrooms are cut, fried with butter until the juice that stands out is almost completely evaporated, salted, poured with sour cream and brought to a boil. Serve sprinkled with herbs.

White fresh mushrooms 300 (or dry 80) or champignons, or boletus 350, butter 30, sour cream 150.

No. 552. Mushrooms with potatoes. The potatoes are boiled, the broth is drained, cut, mixed with fried mushrooms, poured with sour cream and brought to a boil.

Mushrooms 300, potatoes 120, butter 30, sour cream 150.

No. 553. Honey mushrooms fried in sour sauce. Honey mushrooms are sorted, washed, and then cut. Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the onion, sauté it, add a little flour and warm it up, stirring. Boiled mushrooms, mushroom decoction, lemon juice or cucumber pickle, or a little vinegar are added to the browned onion with flour and brought to a boil.

Fresh mushrooms 400, melted butter 40, wheat flour 20, mushroom broth 200, vinegar, cucumber pickle to taste, spices.

No. 554. Mushroom villager. Mushrooms are fried with oil, put in a saucepan, browned onion, sliced ​​​​carrots, potatoes, turnips, sour cream, salt are added, poured with water and stewed until tender.

Fresh mushrooms 200, potatoes 300, ghee 40, sour cream 40, onions 40, carrots 20, turnips 20, spices.

No. 555. Salted fried mushrooms. Salted mushrooms are soaked for 6-10 hours, changing the water 2-3 times. Then they are coarsely chopped, dried and fried together with a shredded lump in ghee or vegetable oil.

Salted mushrooms 300, oil 20–30, onion 80, salt, pepper.

No. 556. Dried fried mushrooms in sour cream. Dried mushrooms are soaked, boiled until tender, washed, chopped and fried. Browned chopped onions are added to the fried mushrooms, poured with sour cream or sour cream sauce, put salt, pepper and bring to a boil, sauce or sour cream, you can add tomato sauce, "Southern", "Kuban", etc. Serve such mushrooms without garnish (as a hot appetizer ) or with fried potatoes (as a second course).

Dried mushrooms 70-100, onion 30-50, oil, fat 30, sour cream, sauce 60-70, potatoes 250, greens.

No. 557. Cutlets from fresh mushrooms. Porcini mushrooms, boletus mushrooms, boletus mushrooms, champignons are prepared, finely chopped, put in a shallow saucepan, oil or fat is added and, stirring, simmer until half of the released juice has evaporated. After that, pour semolina in a thin stream and brew it for 5-10 minutes, continuously stirring. Then finely chopped sautéed onion, salt, pepper are added, mixed and, while still hot, the mass is cut into cutlets or meatballs, which are rolled in breadcrumbs and fried with fat until golden brown. Then the cutlets are put in the oven for 3-5 minutes and served with sour cream.

Per serving: fresh mushrooms 200-250, onion 30, crackers 5, fat, oil 20, semolina 8-10, sour cream 100.

No. 558. Cutlets from dried mushrooms. You can use any dried mushrooms (porcini, boletus, boletus, etc.). They are soaked BUT-5 hours and cook as usual. Then finely chop or grind in a meat grinder. After that, they are fried with fat or oil (“dry”). Thick milk sauce, raw eggs, finely chopped browned onion, salt, pepper are added to the fried cooled mushrooms and mixed. Cutlets or meatballs are formed from this mass, breaded in ground breadcrumbs, fried with butter or fat, put in the oven for 3-5 minutes and served with fried potatoes and sour cream.

For cutlets per serving: dry mushrooms 50, onion 30, fat, oil 10, eggs 1/4 pcs., thick milk sauce 45–50.

No. 559. Mushroom zrazy. Prepare a mass of dry mushrooms in the same way as for cutlets. From it, cakes are cut on a board sprinkled with ground breadcrumbs, minced meat is placed in the middle, wrapped in a mushroom mass, the zrazy is given a flattened oval shape, breaded in breadcrumbs, fried and heated in the oven. For minced meat, hard-boiled eggs are chopped, parsley is chopped, mixed, ground crackers, salt, and pepper are added.

For mushroom mass (per serving): dry mushrooms 60–80, fat 20, crackers, onions 30.

For minced meat: 1/2 eggs, parsley 5, crackers.

No. 560. Moscow mushroom villager (in a frying pan).

First stew the cabbage. To do this, fresh white cabbage is chopped, a little water, vinegar, tomato puree, fat are added and stewed for 20-30 minutes. At the end, sautéed flour is added, slightly diluted with water, mixed and brought to a boil. Flour may not be added.

Sauerkraut is sorted out, squeezed out of the brine, large parts are chopped, and then stewed in the same way as fresh cabbage, but vinegar is not added.

Dry mushrooms are soaked, boiled and chopped. Salted or pickled mushrooms are separated from the brine and cut.

A frying pan (for the required number of servings) is greased, sprinkled with breadcrumbs, put a layer of stewed cabbage (fresh or sauerkraut), a layer of prepared boiled, salted or pickled mushrooms, pickled cucumbers, peeled and chopped. A layer of stewed cabbage is placed on top, the surface is leveled with a slide, sprinkled with breadcrumbs, poured with oil and baked in the oven.

When serving, the surface of the village is decorated with salted or pickled mushrooms, cucumbers, herbs.

For 4 people: dry mushrooms 50, salted mushrooms 200, pickled cucumbers 250, onions 100, stewed cabbage 600, crackers 100.

No. 561. Baked dried mushrooms. Dried mushrooms are soaked and boiled as usual. Then they are chopped, finely chopped onion is added and fried in a pan with fat, sour cream sauce is added and mixed. Seasoned mushrooms are placed in the middle of the pan, boiled chopped potatoes are placed around, everything is poured with sour cream sauce, sprinkled with grated cheese and poured with butter, baked in the oven. The dish is prepared for several people in one pan and served on the table.

For 4 servings: dried white mushrooms 120, potatoes 500-600, onions 100, butter 80-100, cheese 30, sour cream sauce 400.

No. 562. Fresh baked mushrooms with milk sauce. Ceps, boletus, boletus, champignons, russula or others are processed, cut and fried with butter. Then they are seasoned with salt, pepper, mixed with milk sauce and placed in the middle of the pan. Sliced ​​boiled potatoes are placed around. All are poured over with milk sauce of medium density, sprinkled with grated cheese and ground breadcrumbs and baked. The dish is prepared for several people in one pan.

For 4 people: fresh mushrooms 400–500, potatoes 400–500, onions 100–200, cheese 20, crackers 20, butter 60, milk sauce 400.

No. 563. Mushrooms baked in tomato sauce with onions.

Prepared in the same way as with milk sauce, baked mushrooms in tomato sauce with onions, but before baking, sprinkle with breadcrumbs alone, without cheese.

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Legumes Legumes have been eaten by humans since ancient times. In the annals of the times of Kievan Rus, peas and sochevitsa are mentioned. There are quite a lot of dishes with beans. Before cooking, the legumes are sorted, selecting suitable grains, washed and

From the book Encyclopedia of Slavic Culture, Writing and Mythology author Kononenko Alexey Anatolievich

Fish dishes Fish has long occupied a significant place in traditional folk cuisine, it is not inferior to meat and is even better absorbed by the human body. There are few special fish dishes. Fresh fish was fried, eaten hot and cold. Yushka and jelly were cooked from raw fish. Karasey and

Mushroom soup is a common dish in European cuisine. Most often it is cooked with porcini mushrooms, chanterelles and even dried mushrooms. Particular attention should be paid to cream soups based on mushrooms, which are especially popular in restaurants and cafes and are served in miniature bowls. But still, soup with dried porcini mushrooms cannot be compared with anything, the recipe of which each housewife selects according to the requirements of her household and to her taste. You can cook mushroom soup quickly enough, and most importantly, you don’t need to look for some exquisite ingredients for this dish. Most often, all the components of this first course are present on the shelves of every hostess.

History of mushroom soup

Despite the fact that mushroom soups are especially popular in Europe, it is believed that Asian countries are still their homeland. At the same time, the first mushroom soups were prepared on the basis of potrobello mushrooms, or shiitake mushrooms, or white mushrooms. Most likely, the first mushroom soups were prepared long before our era, since their main ingredient was one of the most accessible in the forests and glades for our ancestors, when there was no market, no shops, no markets.

Nowadays, it is traditionally prepared with the addition of milk or cream, and its consistency is brought to a maximum puree. Also add melted or grated hard cheese at the end of cooking. Cream soups with mushrooms have been prepared since about the 17th century, when entrepreneurs already learned how to grow champignons in artificial conditions. It was in France, so this country is considered the birthplace of mushroom puree soups.

But the soup with dried porcini mushrooms is cooked on the water and only one aroma, spreading around the house, can drive even the most sophisticated gourmets crazy.

Recipe for a delicious soup based on dried porcini mushrooms

Dried porcini mushrooms give the soup not only a pleasant aroma and appetizing appearance, but also make it very satisfying. Making this soup is a real pleasure. And the process itself does not take too much time. You just need to prepare - wet the mushrooms.

Dried Mushroom Soup Ingredients:

  • 60 g dried mushrooms per 1.2-1.5 liters of water
  • 4 medium potatoes
  • 1 head of onion
  • 1 carrot
  • 100 g thin vermicelli or noodles
  • vegetable oil for frying vegetables
  • salt and spices to taste
  • greens.

Cooking method:

1. Rinse porcini mushrooms, soak in water for 15-20 minutes. During this time, he will have time to swell. Do not pour out this water, but add it together with mushrooms to boiling water for soup.

2. Put the mushrooms in boiling water.

3. Cut the onion and grate the carrots. Fry the vegetables in vegetable oil and add to the mushrooms.

4. Peel the potatoes, cut into cubes and also add to the soup. All the ingredients are cooked together for about 15 minutes.

5. Add vermicelli or noodles, salt, pepper and add other spices to taste. Cook the soup until the vermicelli is ready.

This is about 2-3 minutes, as the vermicelli will boil in the process of further infusion of the soup. At the end, add dry herbs and let the soup brew for about 20 minutes. Most likely, it is the waiting at this stage that is the most difficult part of making mushroom soup, because the smell has already sent a signal to the stomach.

This soup should be served hot after cooking. The aroma and appearance of the dish will exceed all expectations. Before serving, finely chopped fresh herbs can be added to the soup. Be sure to add a spoonful of sour cream to each plate, and then such a soup will become a favorite treat for all family members.

Useful properties of mushroom soup

Porcini mushrooms in their chemical composition are often equated with the most dietary and healthy meat.

This is the richest source of protein and carbohydrates, in addition, porcini mushrooms contain a considerable amount of useful trace elements and vitamins, even in dried form. Mushrooms contain a special acid - pantothenic, which, when ingested, relieves fatigue and irritation. Eating mushrooms and based on them will not only not harm the figure, but also prevent the appearance of cellulite. That is why mushrooms are very often replaced with meat and products based on it during weight loss.

It is believed that mushrooms have antibacterial properties, and their regular consumption can prevent the development of cancer cells and atherosclerosis. Porcini mushrooms lower the level of "bad" cholesterol in the blood.

An interesting video on the topic: "Soup with dried porcini mushrooms: recipe and useful properties":


I listened to the song "Lenin - Mushroom" one more time. It has come to pass - behind the outward variety showiness of this work, any attentive listener will surely understand the main message of the classics Kuryokhin and Ulyanov: hurry carefully! Neither in the case of universal terror, nor in the collection of mushrooms - he took a step, looked around, thought ....
This is sound advice to everyone, and in everything!
While I introductory I refer to the text. About mushrooms and a rainy day.

... In everyday life, we are close - since I ask my wife, what kind of jar is she hiding? Kind of like dried mushrooms. And why so far?
I took this jar out of a corner in the kitchen, so far away, cherished that even a cat can’t shit there at once, it’s crowded - you’ll crumple your sides while you settle down.
- You can throw it away, - Sveta tells me, - I won't eat them anyway.
- ???... Can we feed our son?! A teenager, a vegan, - any bark should be crunchy ....
"No," he says, "I won't! You see, mushrooms with a whitish coating, and this is probably mold! and shuddered in disgust.
Penicillum is sacred, but to argue with a woman is not to love yourself! I'll weld myself. There is no risk here: since childhood, I remember bundles of grandmother's mushrooms hanging near the Russian stove next to garlands of onions ... or were the onions stored elsewhere? I also remember white, shriveled slices planted on splinters in a pot of sand. In this form, granny dried mushrooms in a Russian stove. Even then, I loved to chew and suck on a dry slice. So, I remember - these deliciously smelling supplies were sometimes covered with a slight patina of mold. A little bit, in some places - if you look very carefully. And the mushrooms in the current jar seemed very familiar to me. He asked again - when they were harvested, who and where. The wife says that they, together with their daughter, collected these mushrooms for a couple in August last year, near the petroglyphs on Onego.
There, nearby, on that day and at that time, just an "archaeological" scandal flared up.

background, opening number two.
At the beginning of the summer of 2008, a free archaeologist from Petrozavodsk, Alexander Mikhailovich Zhulnikov, who was traveling by ship in the company of free Karelian businessmen on Lake Onega, went ashore on Peri Nose (u), turned over a couple of rock fragments, looked and gasped: “Here are the traces ancient observatory!
Something like this was written in the press later.
Yes, petroglyphs were visible on two stones turned over by the hard hands of travelers. On the surface of granite fragments, solar, lunar signs and images of a man and a boat, seen by the artist then, in the period from 7000 to 6000 years from our days, were engraved by the hand of an ancient person. Apparently, the pieces broke off from the rock mass and were pushed by the Onega ice a dozen and a half meters ashore.
Nice find! And although there are hundreds of similar images nearby on the smooth rocks of the Peri Nos, these discovered knockouts increase the subject base for scientists in studying the generally well-documented Onega images.

In the same 2008, during his second visit, which coincided by chance with the place and time of mushroom picking by the women of my family, Alexander Mikhailovich was in the mood to take the historical stones away from their original location. For this, the Burevestnik ship was chartered, and there was also a Kizhanka boat tied at the “soft end” to the ship, and a couple of student volunteers, who were explained that everything around, everything is true!
They unloaded on the cape, tied the stones with a rope, began skidding along the boards closer to the water's edge.
And then the “hard luck” began for the successful archaeologist: seeing from the neighboring Besov Nos a ship that landed on the shore and a carpentry fuss nearby, Nadezhda Valentinovna Lobanova, a senior researcher at the Archeology Sector of the IYALI of the Karelian Scientific Center of the Russian Academy of Sciences, hurried to Peri-Cape. She was just here on a planned business trip with the task of documenting petroglyphs. And with her a dozen hefty men - divers, who did surveys of the underwater part of the capes on "volunteer" grounds.
Lobanova uttered a monologue about the dangers of the television commercial "Honey, I brought you such a vessel from the excavations!"
Lobanova asked - where, by whose will and why are the fragments of the monument, which is in the federal register, taken away?
She called for a real awareness of time: “Now it’s not 1932 and you, Alexander Mikhailovich Zhulnikov, are not the manager of the Hermitage. and quickly took the wreckage to Leningrad - the cradle of the revolution!"
She pressed on consciousness: “Sasha, you are a candidate of science. Where will you take the stones? What kind of business trip, what kind of request from the Kizhi Museum? ?)".
She gave advice: "Alexander Mikhailovich, if you want to study these finds - make graphite copies, wipe, photograph everything around, measure the parameters properly, but leave the monument alone, in place!"
She called for common sense: "Sasha, this territory is under the jurisdiction of the Muromsky reserve, at least the administration of the Pudozhsky district is aware of your intentions?"
Then she just called the police. The captain of Burevestnik, seeing this turn of events, also asked Zhulnikov to show at least some official papers. Having not received a clear answer, he quickly gave up the mooring lines and took the ship into the lake ...

One explanation - in 2008 I myself collected mushrooms on other expeditions, in Chukotka and then, immediately by the end of August, in Svalbard. True, the fees were not for the future, and so - for dinner. But he worked to his fullest.
I describe the situation that happened on the banks of the Onego so easily, for this reason: I saw this scene in rapid motion on the monitor, because all the time of the non-constructive dialogue of archaeologists, the video cameras of St. Petersburg divers and Andrey B., my friend from Moscow, were working. Both wrote both sound and image. Chronicle of the event, so to speak. I have looked at it many times...

Sveta, my wife, didn’t get into the fire of arch-disputes, she and her daughter that day a little to the south, at Cape Kladovets Nos, were engaged in guarding mossiness mushrooms drying in the wind.

There are not many worries with mushrooms, but they are there. I'm telling you, I've tested it myself. The method of harvesting mushroom raw materials is simple:
- If you happen to be on the eastern bank of Onego in July-August and you have free time and a desire to collect mushrooms, start looking.
- If the "year is mushroom", they have grown and have not yet been collected by other search engines - you (mushrooms) will find them! Different: white, boletus-boletus, boletus-boletus, flywheels and russula are and are found. For gourmets - chanterelles, for connoisseurs: turiki - ringed caps and "pasta" with "pipe makers" - these are those that live in abundance under spruce trees. Local residents from Karshevo, Nigizma and Krasnoborsky do not collect such mushrooms - they disdain beforehand without having tasted the taste.
... Continue like this:
- Go out to the cape, to the lake, where the exposed rocks turn red (option, not red rocks - turn gray);
- once again inspect the fees, take aside the "white" mushrooms with a pink hymenophore sponge - these are not white, these are bile. There are sometimes a lot of them in these parts - every first one is bile in breed and bile in taste ... In doubt - lick a slice of a mushroom, you will immediately understand everything.
- Clean the collected trophies, in no case wash (!), cut into flat slices and lay out the pieces on the rock so that they do not touch each other.
Further success is possible only in the absence of rainy weather:
- on a sunny, windy day, mushroom slices are dried for several hours. It is desirable to turn them once and by the evening they are ready. Yes, one more thing - the mushroom slices left on the rock for the night become boring and sour everything, except for those pieces that will be eaten by the larvae of mushroom flies - the so-called "worms".
Remember the mushroom picker - against the wind and the worm does not crawl!
That's the whole story of the appearance of a jar of mushrooms in our kitchen.
... In the boiling broth left over from boiled ribs, I poured two handfuls of dry mushrooms, suneli hops, dry roots from the bag, poured pearl barley and left to boil. He himself fried finely chopped carrots and onions. Peeled and cut large potatoes into one and a half centimeter cubes. Then peas of allspice and black pepper and a leaf of laurel were added. Ready soup was infused for another hour on a warm stove. I covered the top of the pan with a folded towel.
To try my cooking that evening, the day before yesterday, Svetlana flatly refused. Yesterday it was stuffy all day, not to eat - she grabbed vegetables and fruits and again refused soup. The vegan son asked what was cooked so fragrant. Upon learning that the broth was in meat broth, he grunted and resentfully left the kitchen; I halved the saucepan. I found out an interesting effect - when you start to specifically scuff along the bottom with a spoon - there is a strong desire to scoop up a couple of scoops from the pan again and add them to the plate. And the smell - what a smell! God, that's ambrosia!!! Today, Sveta gladly drank the bowl of soup offered to her and looked at me with hope:
- That's it, - I say, - happiness is over. Okay, I'll arrange a repeat of the situation - I'll cook more soon!
The cat twirled around her feet.

Archaeologists remained each with their own opinion and devoted the entire winter of early 2009 to epistles.
Zhulnikov wrote to the courts and the prosecutor's office - he has all the trump cards: he is the author of the find, he was offended. He was advancing.
Lobanova, on the other hand, answered “in pursuit” and that is why she lost in all positions. She called for the triumph of common sense, recalled the ethics of researchers, spoke about the absence of Alexander Mikhailovich at the time of the discovery of official permission for archaeological work.
In parallel with the discussion, a trial was going on - the Pudozh police filed a lawsuit against A.M. Zhulnikov. The press praised the triumph of Science - the discoverer always calls. The magistrate thought and ordered to give the finds "... to the author ..." (!) For a period of three years for study.
Officials intervened - they decided that after the hype raised by Zhulnikov in the popular press, the notorious rock fragments with petroglyphs and their location had become too well known. And now unkind people can easily work. They will load it on a jeep and - bye-bye, ancient art somewhere to the grabbing agents in the Moscow region, to the dacha. Stones with knockouts are not very large - weighing 650 and 250 kilograms. Of course, the petroglyphs themselves will not suffer from them, but there will be noise in the world ... and goodbye to the officials of the local quarry ... A monument of a federal level - it may even work with a domino effect according to the nomenclature. And all because of the stones.
And fragments of rocks with petroglyphs were removed from the shore of Lake Onega, the place of their "historical homeland".
At first they were transported to the Pudozh Museum of Local Lore, but then Zhulnikov again became active in protest, insisting that it was expensive for him, the "Author", to study "his "Author's" petroglyphs to go to Pudozh.
Later, in June 2009, both stones settled in the funds of the Karelian Museum of Local Lore in Petrozavodsk and will soon decorate a new exhibition about ancient art. The exposition will be open to visitors all year round in the center of Petrozavodsk. Then everyone can get acquainted with the petroglyphs without leaving the territory of the Besov Nos, because for eight whole months a year it is very difficult to make such a trip.
By the way, there (let's say - somewhere) a couple more stones stale. One, weighing a ton, with a pair of heavenly signs, the other with the image of an elk. These fragments were discovered and studied by Lobanova without fuss and unnecessary noise in the first years of our new century. They have been lying for a long time - they do not interfere with anyone.
Mushrooms, in general, do not care what kind of revolutionary situation has developed around.
What is red, what is white.

(French soupe) - a liquid dish seasoned with vegetables or cereals, which is a decoction of meat, fish, mushrooms, as well as (without meat) a decoction of vegetables, cereals, etc.

It is served at the table as a first course. Soup is a common dish in many countries.

Depending on what ingredients are used to make the soup, its names vary: borsch, cabbage soup, pickle, hodgepodge, fish soup, mushroom soup, milk soup - these are just some of the names that exist in cooking.

Soups are hot and cold, instant. There are also national soups. In England, this is a transparent beef tail soup, in the USA - mussel soup, in Italy - minestrone, Andalusian gazpacho, French onion soup, Indian curry chicken soup, Hungarian goulash soup, Russian borscht, Georgian kharcho soup, etc.

According to culinary historians, soup originated in ancient times, when soup was prepared (not boiled) in the form of a stew from crushed or coarsely ground cereal grains, previously baked on hot stones. Over time, such stews began to be made thicker, but, however, they quickly turned sour and became unsuitable for eating. Boiled soups, according to some experts, appeared only when people first began to make clay pots.

There is another opinion, according to which soup arose when a person learned to use fire and mastered the cooking process. Supporters of this version suggest that animal skins were used for boiling meat in water, which were tied in a special way and hung over the fire.

According to some reports, soups were prepared in the Mediterranean as early as the Stone Age. As the Roman Empire expanded, more and more diverse ingredients were used to make soups: leeks, onions, carrots, garlic, fennel, mint, parsley and coriander.

The oldest soup recipe was found in the 4th century Apicure cookbook, which mentions the following ingredients: wheat, olive oil, minced meat, brains, pepper, bay leaf, cumin, wine, fermented fish sauce.

After the fall of the Roman Empire, the soup continued its history in Byzantium, and here, over the centuries, the menu was enriched with soups originating from Central Asia. The Turks, unlike Western Europeans, ate soup not only at certain times of the day and not only as part of the daily meal. In addition, they used a wide variety of vegetables for their soups.

In the poetry of the XII-XIII centuries, puree soups, soups made from lard, vegetables, cereals, as well as almonds and olive oil are sung. Wine soup (slices of bread soaked in wine) was a favorite dish of the warriors of the Middle Ages, and the worst punishment was that they were deprived of the opportunity to use it.

In the Middle Ages, the most popular soups were peas with lard, lean salted whale, watercress, frozen cabbage, cheese, and others.

The French were considered the greatest inventors and lovers of soups, who already at the end of the 15th century invented more than 70 types of them. On the table of a French peasant, soup was necessarily served twice a day and was considered the basis of food.

Soups (broths) were usually served in bowls. If for the poor the broth was the only food, then for the rich it served as a gravy for those main products that were cooked in it. Sometimes cooked food and broth were served separately, sometimes together, in the latter case, the food was cut into small pieces.

There were no spoons yet, so pieces of vegetables and meat were taken out of the bowls by hand, and the daredevils did it with a knife. Spoons have come into use since the fourteenth century, at least among rich people. In the 16th century, spoons changed, became deeper, and their handles became longer. At the same time, a new dish came into fashion, which its creators, the French called soupe, because a piece of bread was placed at the bottom of the bowl, which was soaked in liquid (English sop).

When it became possible to make metal utensils that can withstand high temperatures and are convenient for cooking, cooking as a culinary technique has improved significantly.

In addition to ordinary soups, they began to cook complex ones. In the same period, broths, which began to be considered almost the "elixir of life", acquired a special price. For those weakened by the disease, "restoring" vegetable broths (decoctions) were prepared.

At the beginning of the 16th century, France began to practice filling broths with vermicelli, noodles, and pasta. In Normandy, flour soups were especially loved, and the most famous was soup made from liquid milk slurry with yolks.

According to legend, the famous onion soup appeared thanks to the French king Louis XV, who got hungry one late at night, but in the hunting lodge there was nothing but onions, butter and champagne, which served as the basis for this dish.

Spanish gazpacho soup was originally the food of simple muleteers, but gradually it became incredibly popular, first among the inhabitants of all of Spain, and then the whole world. Thanks to the traditional craft of Provencal fishermen, bouillabaisse appeared in French Marseille - a fish soup that is considered today one of the most exquisite dishes in the whole world.

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