How to process photos for Instagram: learning how to make beautiful. Esquire photo editing

In the style of Rarindra Prakarsa is characterized by interesting lighting effects and post-processing. This Indonesian photo artist gained worldwide fame thanks to his own photographs and individual style: textures woven from light, haze and trees, light in the spirit of the Italian Renaissance from the time of Leonardo da Vinci.

Using simple tricks artistic processing of photos in graphic editors like Photoshop, we can also give our own photos similar effects, making them speak in a new way.

Unusual processing of photographs by photographer Rarindra Prakarsa and analysis of his technique

Rarindra Prakarsa's favorite filming locations are close to his home as he shows up on the "set" in the early morning. These places are in Jakarta and West Java: Serpong, Kividei and Sukabumi. In West Java, high humidity and fog, which often plays into his hands. Although he still prefers to shoot in good weather. When it's clear outside, he always wants to get out of the house, due to the fact that he is obsessed with beautiful light. For a long time, he seizes the moment, choosing the ideal angle of incidence of light on objects. He always selects a suitable entourage, trees in this sense are his favorites.

"The golden moment"

This photo was taken near my house, located near a small lake in the western part of Jakarta. The weather was very nice and I thought it would be great if the net was golden and the background dark. But in fact the background was not as dark as you see in the photo.

I set the shutter speed to 1/500 second and the white balance to "shade".

I then edited the image in Photoshop using the Burn tool so that the upper right part stays bright. I used Selective Color (Blue) on his clothes to get a more intense blue and remove the yellow. Then I took the Dodge Tool to lighten some of the clothing. I tried to create a contrast of blue and yellow in this photo. All the elements of this photo are natural, all I did was basically highlight / darken some areas.

"Togetherness #2"

This photo was taken with Canon Digital Rebel XT and Tamron 28-75. In Popular Photography magazine, Rarindra shares the steps he used in artistic processing of photography in photoshop:

  • If you are shooting in RAW, then use a warm white balance setting (White Balance) before transferring the image to Photoshop.
  • Using your favorite selection method, select your main subjects (in this case, the people) and save the selection for later use. While the shapes are still selected, create a new adjustment layer of the Levels type. Don't change anything, just click OK, then change the blend mode to Soft Light and lower the layer's Opacity to 50%.
  • Make a new Solid Color Fill Layer.

Choose Color: None and click Ok. In the color selection dialog, enter the following values: R84, G66, B4. Click OK, then change the blend mode to Hue.

  • Create a new adjustment layer of type Selective Color. Select Colors:Neutrals and set Yellow to 39% and Cyan to -8%.
  • Create a new adjustment layer of type Color Balance. Set midtones to 0, -7, -13. Then set highlights to 0, 0, -3.
  • Create a new adjustment layer of type Levels, select the blue channel (Blue), and change the output level from 255 to 200.
  • Create a new empty layer and load the shape selection saved in step 2. Fill the selection with black, change the blend mode to Color, and reduce the opacity to 50%. This will make your shapes stand out better against the golden background.
  • If the gold tone is too strong, reduce the opacity of your layers until the image starts to look more natural.

There's a lot going on in Rarindra's work, and it's painstaking, intense work. That's probably why he doesn't post new work every week.

His work contains notable characteristic features. It separates the image into the foreground, the main subject of the image and the background, almost like on a theater stage. In this particular example, I suspect that he cut out the foreground with the children and the tree and pasted it into another image with the background. Why do I think so? The sun shines very brightly, so much so that the boys' backs are almost overexposed. At the same time, the background is illuminated with a completely different light. If the light in the background were the same, we would see overexposed branches, leaves and tree trunks.

It also uses contrast, sharpness and color to further separate the foreground from the background. In the same image, for example, the background is slightly blurred and the contrast is reduced - this places the background on a completely separate plane. It looks almost like a fake theatrical backdrop.

For backgrounds, it uses color gradients in Normal and Multiply modes and reduces opacity. These modes are important because they don't increase the contrast, they just dampen the brightness a bit, leaving the contrast low.

I've used some of these techniques in this example image:

First, start with an image that is heavily backlit or side-lit - it will be easier to work with and the result will be more natural.

Secondly, clipping is very important to separate the foreground from the background. In this example, we only need to worry about creating a mask for the little girl:

I believe gradients are the key to getting images like Rarindra's. The gradations in his work are very smooth, they don't look like brush work. So in this example, I only used gradients and didn't use brushes on everything, including masks.

When you use gradients on masks, don't forget to set your colors to the standard black for the foreground and white for the background (press the D key to set them that way). Also don't forget to change the gradient mode to "foreground to transparent". Click on the gradient in the toolbar and select the following settings:

I used linear gradients for large areas:

And round gradients for small areas:

So, let's move on to the image. We'll start by adding some haze to separate the foreground from the background. Here is the initial image for comparison:

A little more for more depth. This layer was added in Multiply mode, with a lower opacity:

Add some contrast using Levels:

Now let's make the rays. I have a separate tutorial on this topic, but this time I tried a new approach, because I wanted to get wider beams, but at the same time randomly placed. Here's how I did it:

First, I selected a small part of the tree. I then copied and pasted it into a separate image. I switched it to black and white, then used Levels to get more whites and some dark greys. Then I used the Motion Blur filter.

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1006&message=24825869

The next step I pasted the resulting rays into a new layer in the initial image and transformed them using the Transform tool. Once you've shaped them the way you want and placed them in the right place, change the blend mode of this layer to Overlay (or whichever mode you prefer more). Now use Gaussian Blur to blur them out and adjust the layer's opacity to your liking:

A more natural result is obtained by adding a second layer with rays and slightly moving it. Try other blend modes and blur settings. Sometimes soft light on one layer and overlay on another will work best. Experiment to get the best result for your image:

Final result:

We have released a new book, "Social Media Content Marketing: How to get into the head of subscribers and make them fall in love with your brand."

Subscribe

The quality of photos on Instagram is the main advantage of any blogger. If you take great pictures and process them well, then more subscribers will want to join you. It does not always take a lot of time and a professional camera and software to process photos for Instagram.

Some bloggers make high-quality material only with the help of a smartphone and a free application, and some share their knowledge in their courses and webinars. You can learn how filters work in the native app and then apply them to specific types of photos. Consider Instagram filters and VSCO, additional programs and applications for editing.

Start with a great photo

No amount of editing will fix a photo that wasn't well taken from the start. You don't have to be a professional photographer to create great Instagram shots: turn on your phone's camera and learn all the photography tips. We wrote more in

Processing is divided into two stages: basic and with special effects.
Basic involves selective correction and includes three components:

  • Retouch: remove pimples, unnecessary objects and people accidentally caught in the frame.
  • Smoothing: make skin smoother without bumps or harsh lighting.
  • Selective light correction.

First, all the details are worked out in the photo. The next step is general color correction, and only after that you can apply filters and complete editing.
This is the essence of editing photos for Instagram in one style: you match the colors in the picture to those that you use in your profile. After editing several images, the ribbon will look harmonious.
In addition, you need to decide what tasks are worth:

  • improve the photo while maintaining a natural look;
  • give an unrealistic atmosphere.

The two options cannot be combined together, so you need to decide in advance. You must clearly understand what result you need to achieve in order not to spend hours in photo editors on unnecessary actions.

What not to do during processing

  1. Use all the tools in a row on one photo without the need. A beautiful shot will show your professionalism.
  2. Wasting time on bad shots.
  3. Make faces in a portrait unrecognizable (for example, by high contrast and darkening), if such an idea is not worth it.
  1. Watch your exposure. Strongly overexposed images are overexposed, dark ones are underexposed. Keep the balance and adjust the light in moderation. If you lower the exposure, then later you need to equalize the colors and contrast.
  2. Do not sharpen blurred areas of the image. In some cases, it is simply not needed: during rain or fog, when objects blur.
  3. Use the brush to work on specific areas that need lightening / darkening, changing temperature and saturation.
  4. The horizon in the photo should not be "littered". Use Photoshop to correct it.
  5. Choose the right composition. If the picture was taken with the participation of people, you do not need to place them far away and make them barely noticeable.
  6. Adjust the white balance. This will give you the best color reproduction.
  7. Suppress noise. You should not remove them until the end, so as not to give the picture a polished effect.
  8. For overexposed photos, increase the contrast. It saturates the colors. But its excessive use leads to an unnatural look.
  9. Do the right framing. The subject in the center of the frame is boring. Position it according to the rule of thirds, and the picture will become pleasantly natural.

Follow successful bloggers and note the details. Over time, you will learn to avoid mistakes and emphasize the beauty of photographs.

How Instagram bloggers edit photos with VSCO

Here are examples of well-known bloggers and filters that can be used to get a similar style.

  • Lydia Elisse Emilen @lydiaemillen. HB1: +8, Exposure: +1, Contrast: +1.

  • Cher Bai (@chermycloset): SE3: +8, exposure: +0.5, contrast: +1.

Blogger acta.acta processes her shots with her favorite C7 filter, which works great with skin tones. She uses Lightroom for color correction, Facetune for detailing objects.

And Elina Fedorova (@elinafedorova) uses filters from category A: A4, A5 and A6. The blogger advises using one for all photos and having 1-2 more for a reserve, in case the color setting does not fit well on some picture. In Snapseed, the girl adjusts the brightness without exceeding +25, changes the color balance for greater color intensity. In the same application, using the Spot tool, removes specks from the skin.

Look for information on how your favorite blogger handles photos. If he doesn't reveal secrets in the public domain, study his photos and experiment with VSCO and some other programs. You may not be able to completely copy your favorite style, but you will find your own that will be just as good.

How to edit photos in VSCO for Instagram: style examples

VSCO allows you to process photos in a single style. Now there are many options, and everyone will find an acceptable one for themselves.

  1. Pink style shots by Nina Tailles:
    Filter J3: +7.
    Exposure: -1.2;
    Saturation: +1;
    Temperature: -1.3;
    Hues: +1.6.
  2. Beige shades:
    HB2: +3;
    Contrast: +1;
    Saturation: +1.
  3. Blue shades:
    J1;
    Exposure: -1;
    Contrast: +2;
    Temperature: -2.
  4. Romantic red:
    E3;
    Exposure: -1;
    Saturation: -1;
    Temperature +1.
  5. Black and Gold Theme:
    C1: +1;
    Exposure: +1;
    Contrast: +1;
    Saturation: +2.

More settings in VSCO can be found in thematic publics and groups, including on Instagram. Lots of collections on Pinterest.

How to beautifully edit photos on Instagram using built-in filters

Filters are color settings. Why is it important? Choose the right preset and the profile will be in the same style. Otherwise, color settings and photos will conflict.
See how the pictures change under the influence of each of them.

normal. This is the original photo without processing. Subtle changes are made. The result will remain the same - without additional effects.


Lark. From English - "Lark". Lightens the image and enhances all colors in the photo except red. It is used to edit pictures taken outdoors: nature or portrait. It fits perfectly in photographs with tanned skin, green trees, blue skies, although its result is sometimes invisible.


Clarendon. Translated from English as "Bold font". Originally created for video only, but now available for snapshots. It enhances shadows and brightens colors. Perfect for pets and minimalist photos where you want to make a splash of color.


Gingham. "Umbrella". Blurs the photo. Gives dark pictures a yellowish tint. Light - a bright look. Reminds me of some popular VSCO filters. Photos become vintage. Every fashionista needs it.


Moon. "Moon". A black and white filter with intense shadows that will give photos a vibrant, vintage look. Like the Clarendon, it was originally created for video only and named after the dog of one of the members of the Instagram team. It's sort of a black and white version of Gingham, with slightly more intense shadows. For portraits.


Valencia. A filter with warm undertones and a retro vibe does not wash out the colors completely. Photos become from the 80s, a little brightened. Used for any images.


Nashville. The pink tint increases the temperature of the image while brightening it. Similar to Valencia: the same retro effect, but more pronounced. This is another cool setting to create a vintage vibe.


earlybird. It has a sepia effect - it imposes on photographs a special brown color used in the 19th century, and slightly discolors, washes out the shades. Needed for a retro vibe.


Aden. Filter with low softening contrast. Lightly desaturates the photo and gives it a pastel effect. Increases the temperature of cool colors. Smoothes the skin, useful when processing portraits. Works with highlights and autumn photos.


Sutro. Adds a very noticeable vignette, darkens the photo, gives a hazy effect with a special emphasis on purple and brown colors to achieve the effect. Use with everything except portraits (if natural processing is the goal). Landscapes add mystery and ominousness


Crema. Blurs and smoothes skin tones, reduces saturation. Vintage filter. Popular for filming food, to convey the atmosphere of a cafe. Works well with pictures of nature (green, blue shades) and the city.


Reyes. Discolors, increases brightness. An excellent color setting for portraits as it works on the skin and hides any blemishes. In some cases, photos processed in another editor may turn yellow under the influence of Reyes.


lo-fi. Brightens colors, adds shadows, greatly increases saturation. Needed for food and nature shots with lots of trees and grass.


Toaster. Adds a strong red tint. Sends a lot of light to the center, thickens the shadows at the edges. Works well with shots taken during the day outdoors. But night work will be unsuccessful in this processing.

Juno. Increases the saturation of colors. Lightens yellows, oranges and reds. Texture appears in the pictures. Suitable for outdoor material.

Rise. Adds a soft yellow glow to photos, making it a great filter for portraits. It smoothes the skin and removes excess spots on the face.

Slumber. Translated from English, it translates as a dream, a nap. The color setting corresponds to the name, filling the photo with an atmosphere of romance and antiquity. Works well with street lighting and nature.

Brannan. High contrast filter works with exposure, adds light. A yellow tint appears. Ideal for portraits and landscapes.

Inkwell. Classic universal black and white Instagram filter.

Stinson. Lightweight versatile. Brightens and slightly blurs colors.

X Pro II. Adds strong contrast and vignetting. Colors take on warmer tones. Avoid it in close-up portraits: it has an unpleasant effect on the skin. But it works well with images of nature, cities, clothes.

dog patch. Blurs light shades, increases contrast. Recommended for shots with good lighting: it does not work with night.

Ludwig. Adds temperature to warm colors, makes cool colors darker, shadows and dark areas are noticeable. Works with black and white photos, cityscapes, ideal for buildings.

1977. The name says it all: the filter adds pinks and reds for a faded look. Works well with water and highlights.

Hudson. Fills the photo with cold shades, adds a light vignette. Works with open space, especially with winter landscapes.

Kelvin. The filtered image receives a lot of sunlight. Bright, rich, golden. It raises the temperature and brightens the picture. Suitable for photos with a lot of natural or artificial light.

Sierra. Similar to Rise, but darker and adds vignetting to the edges. The center becomes brighter. Works well with nature and objects.

skyline. Use for any image that needs to lighten up a bit and change colors to brighter ones.

walden. Corrects the center and adds a cool blue tint to the photo. Looks good in portraits.

Perpetua. The filter does not fit well on portraits, giving the skin unnatural tones. However, it works well with beach photos, adjusting the greens and yellows.

Brooklyn. One of the popular filters that works with yellow tints. Photos taken outdoors benefit noticeably when using it.

Amaro. Adds brightness to the center of the image and vignetting to the edges. Works well with autumn photos.

Hefe. Increases color saturation, temperature and imposes vignetting. Great for landscapes.

Maven. The filter darkens images, enhances shadows, and overlays yellow tints. Used for architecture and does not fit well in portraits.

Ginza. Universal filter that brightens the photo.

Willow. Black and white, great for beaches and portraits.

Charmes. Raises the temperature of the image, adds red tones and increases contrast. Suitable for poorly lit images and urban photos.

Mayfair. Applies vignetting, increases the temperature of colors. Instagram recommends using it in conjunction with the Lux feature (the sun icon at the top) to add light to underexposed images.

Vesper. Portrait Filter: Smoothes the skin, adds a yellow tint.

Ashby. Adds a golden glow. Unlike Sierra and Rise, it does not darken shadows. For portraits.

Helena. Adds warmth to portraits and works great with orange tones in photos.

Processing photos in the same filter allows you to organize the material and create it in a single style for Instagram.

Apps for editing photos on your phone for Instagram

Bloggers also use mobile applications or computer programs to process photos. Everyone has their own list of tools. Below we will list all the editors that allow you to put almost any photo in order.

  1. Lightroom CC. Available platforms: iOS, Android. Free app from Adobe. The main advantage of the application is color correction. With its help, you can easily change the shades to more successful ones. Works with exposure, contrast, highlights and shadows. Able to add effects: clarity, getting rid of haze, vignetting, feathering, rounding, graininess and much more. Works with details, reduces noise.
  2. VSCO. A popular application with a huge number of filters that even bloggers use. Color adjustments are applied after removing all defects or adding items, when the main part of the processing is finished.
  3. Adobe Photoshop Express. Another completely free offer from Adobe for iOS and Android mobile devices. Additional tools can be obtained at the entrance to your personal account. Intuitive interface. There are features not included in other editors. Contains about fifty filters, can crop, adjust clarity and sharpness, eliminate fog. Works with hues and temperatures. Not the whole list of tools, but inferior to the computer version.
  4. Adobe Photoshop Mix. Supported platforms: iOS, Android. Opens PSD files and works with layers. Available: correction, exposure, saturation. Far from the computer version, but some tools are taken from it: architecture correction, jitter reduction, content-aware fill.
  5. Adobe Photoshop Fix. Free application from Adobe. The main feature is the "Plastic" tool, which allows you to "pull up" a smile, change the size of the eyes and much, much more. The application scans the face and highlights areas. Tools: frame, correction, restoration, smoothing, light, color, paint, defocus, vignette. There are no filters.
  6. handy photo. Supports tonal adjustments, removes unnecessary objects from the photo. Functionality: general and selective adjustment of tone and color, retouching, moving objects between shots, selective application of filters, adding textures and much more. It costs 189 rubles.
  7. Facetune. The application works with portraits. Whiten tool for white and bright teeth, Soften for selective light blurring. "Details" increases the contrast of the selected areas, thus highlighting the details, texture. With the help of "Contour" you can make a smile, add volume to your hair, and "Patch" is useful if you need to remove extra spots on your face. And even objects.
  8. snapseed. Free powerful application from Google without ads and pop-ups. In the "Styles" section, you can choose a filter, and in the "Tools" there are more functions. General correction for brightness, contrast, saturation. With the help of curves, you can change the primary colors, and correct poor lighting in the white balance. It can selectively process an area, work with graininess, and the HRD effect. Changes incorrect perspective and expands photos by automatically filling empty areas. It has four types of brushes: darkening and highlighting, exposure, temperature, saturation. Their strength can be controlled. Contains templates with beautiful captions.
  9. Canva. The application has collected many designs for different social networks. A great tool if you need to put text on a picture, a cloud with an inscription. Transparency settings to create a muted look. It can blur photos, apply a vignette to create a retro atmosphere and much more.
  10. Spring effects. A simple body shaping app. Facetune will not be able to edit photos with patterns on the background. For example, if it is striped, then any attempts to reduce the figure will immediately be displayed with irregular outlines. Spring Effects easily solves this problem. The application has only two modes: for weight loss and for increasing growth. After selection, two lines will appear on the screen: they need to designate the boundaries of the stretched or compressed area. Click on the green button and scale the photo to the desired view. In the "Slim" section, you need to enclose the head in a circle to avoid stretching it.
  11. Zoetropuc free. Applications for moving photos. Mark static areas (ground, people, mountains) and areas in motion (water, hair, leaf). Using the arrows, you can easily create the effect of a live shot.

Programs for a computer for editing photos on Instagram

Photoshop CC and Adobe Lightroom CC are classic programs from Adobe that can fix everything from skin blemishes to serious imperfections. Available platforms: Windows, MacOS.

You can try Luminar 2018. The new version of the program is much faster than the previous ones and is positioned as a competitor to Adobe Lightroom CC. Many functions are similar: layers, brushes, masks, distortion removal, vignetting, perspective correction. Advantages: support for color tables (LUT), flexible color and light settings.

We do not list many computer programs or services here, because Instagram is more about mobile photography and applications are quite capable of this task.
Processing is critical to conveying the unique atmosphere of an image. See how others do it, be inspired by the selections, try it yourself. You will definitely learn how to process photos, achieving the intended effect.

In this tutorial we will create a futuristic fashion portrait. Instead of using ready-made filters, pictures or brushes, we will draw all the details by hand. It may sound intimidating, but trust me, you don't have to be a digital artist to incorporate digital painting techniques into photo manipulation!

Also, with the help of adjustment layers, we will perform color correction and see how changing colors can turn a flat and boring picture into a bright illustration.

Last but not least are smart objects. I'll tell you why you should start using them and how they help you to better control your work with effects, respecting the so-called principles of non-destructive editing.

Note: Some images are missing from the tutorial source. The author also used paid materials. In the archive you will find an alternative version of the materials for the lesson

1. Create a pixelated background

First, we will create a pixelated night sky background. I don't like to overload the background with details in portraits so that the main focus is on the main character.

Before we get started, I want to tell you why we use Smart Objects. In the course of the lesson, we will create several of these layers, and I would like to interest other artists to use them. So if you have already learned the beauty of smart objects, then skip this section of the tutorial!

What are smart objects?

If you right-click on the layer, then in the menu you will find the command ConverttoSmartObject(Convert to Smart Object). Essentially, this command disables permanent pixel editing. You can reduce the object, then stretch it and the picture will not be blurry. All filters that we add to smart objects become smart filters, and you can adjust their settings, turn off visibility or delete them at any time without affecting the main layer. Also, each such filter has its own mask, which can be edited.

As you already understood, smart objects are the most powerful and functional tool for non-destructive editing. Its essence lies in the fact that you either do not change the contents of the original layer at all, or very little. In this case, as mentioned above, at any time you can change the settings of the applied effects or delete them, while the original layer will remain untouched.

Pros and cons

Sounds great, but why not make all layers smart objects by default? There are two reasons. First, they greatly increase the file size. If you insert a 3000 x 3000 pixel image into your document and compress it to 500 x 500 pixels, it will still retain the original size data. And this can reduce performance even on a good computer.

Secondly, some filters and layer settings cannot be applied to Smart Objects. For example, you cannot apply a filter Vanishingpoint(Correction of perspective). Smart objects are quite limited in this.

When to Use Smart Objects

Most often I use them with blur filters. Sometimes I need to edit the filter mask so that it is only visible in a certain place. Or when adding several different filters and adjustments that I later want to change. Or just experimenting with different effects.

Personally, I don't use them for minor adjustments or to maintain the original size of an inserted image. I only create smart objects when I really need them.

Describing smart objects sounds complicated and can be confusing, so I don't want to overwhelm you with more information. I hope you found this mini-course helpful!

Now let's get to the lesson!

Step 1

Create a 3680 x 5098 px document and paste in the night sky image.

Step 2

Select the night sky layer, right click on it and select ConverttoSmartObject(Convert to Smart Object).

Next, apply filter- Sharpen- SmartSharpen(Filter - Sharpness - Smart Sharpen). Install Amount(Effect) by 500%, Radius(Radius) - by 1.0 pixel and Reducenoise(Reduce noise) - by 10%.

Step 3

Let's brighten up the stars with an adjustment layer. Curves(Curves). Settings below:

Double click on the layer Curves(Curves) to open the window layerstyle(Layer style). Adjusting the bottom black slider Underlyinglayer(Subject layer). To split it in half, hold down the Alt key.

Duplicate (Ctrl+J) layer Curves(Curves) to further increase the brightness of the stars.

Step 4

Now we will add a glow.

Above create a new layer (Ctrl + Shift + N) in blend mode Normal(Normal).

flow(Push) 5% draw translucent white spots at the top of the canvas.

Softlight(Soft light).

We draw the same brush in the same places to increase the brightness.

On the layers panel, hold down the Ctrl key, select all the background layers and group (Ctrl + G) them. We call the group "Background".

2. Add light and shade to the model

In this section, we will cut out the model and add light and shade to it.

Step 1

First, insert a girl with pink hair in the center of the canvas.

Cut it out in any convenient way. I prefer to use for highlighting the body penTool(P) (Feather), and for hair - Refineedge(refine edge)/ RefineedgeBrushTool(Brush "Refine Edge").

If you need help cutting it out, skip to the step Cut out the model in the tutorial How to create a fashion illustration with glass shards in Photoshop

https://site/lessons/photo/sozdaem_v_fotoshop_fashion-illyustraciyu_s_oskolkami_stekla.html

This is how I cut out objects! Don't forget in the settings window Refineedge(Refine Edge) switch to a special brush.

Step 2

Above the layer with the model, add a new layer to blend mode Screen(Lightening) and transform it into a clipping mask (Ctrl + Alt + G).

Large soft brush (B) with flow(Push) 5% blue (#004dcd) draw along the edges of the model. Add light on the shoulders and chest. Don't overdo the effect!

Step 3

Create another new layer in blend mode Normal(Normal) and transform it into a clipping mask.

With the same brush, draw white on the shoulders of the model. With the help of several layers, we will gradually add lighting so that it is quite soft and dynamic.

Step 4

Create another clipping layer in blend mode Normal(Normal) and reduce it Opacity(opacity) up to 30%. With a small hard brush (B) paint highlights along the edges of the model. Don't forget about the folds in the clothes so that the character doesn't look flat.

If you don't have a graphics tablet, it's not a problem! On the top bar with brush options, set Smoothing(Smooth) by 30% and draw. Then stretch the finished lines with smudgeTool(Finger) ( Strength(Intensity) 20%) by left-clicking and dragging the tool.

Step 5

Create an adjustment layer colorlookup(Search for color) and transform it into a clipping mask for the model. Install 3 DLUTfile(3DLUT file) on NightFromDay and reduce the layer's opacity to 77%.

With a large soft brush (B) of black color, edit the mask of the adjustment layer and remove the dark areas on the face, sides and slightly near the chest of the model. Thanks to such shadows, the model looks more interesting.

Step 6

Create an adjustment layer brightness/contrast(Brightness/Contrast) and transform it into a clipping mask for the model. Install brightness(Brightness) to 52.

Invert the mask of this adjustment layer using the keyboard shortcut Ctrl + I. As a result, the white mask should become black.

With a soft brush (B) of medium size, draw white on the shoulders, sides and chest of the model to highlight the light in these areas.

Then add an adjustment layer Curves(Curves) and transform it into a clipping mask for the model. Customize:

Step 7

We finish color correction by creating another adjustment layer. Hue/Saturation(Hue/Saturation) and converting it to a clipping mask for the model. In the settings, check the box next to colorize(Toning), Hue(Hue) set to 223, Saturation(Saturation) - at 28 and lightness(Brightness) - at -23.

With a soft brush (B) of medium size, draw black on the mask of the adjustment layer to remove the effect on the face and the inside of the clothes.

Step 8

In this step we will add a light source behind the model.

Under the model layer Screen(Lightening).

With a large soft brush (#2aa0ff) paint a neat glow behind the model's head and shoulders. Take your time and work carefully, gradually increasing the brightness of the glow. And don't forget to paint with a little brush pressure.

Create a new layer in mode Normal(Normal) and repeat all the steps, but this time we use white.

Group (Ctrl + G) all layers with the model and name the group "Model".

3. Draw a space hairstyle

Step 1

Duplicate (Ctrl+J) the night sky layer and place the copy above the Model group. If there are any filters and masks left on the copy, delete everything.

Open the "Model" group, hold down the Ctrl key and left-click on the mask of the layer with the model (or the layer thumbnail if you did not apply a mask) to create a selection according to the shape of the girl.

Go to the copy of the night sky and add a mask to it. Thanks to the active selection, the mask will be created exactly according to its shape.

With a soft white brush (B) hide the star texture on the body and face of the model. Try to create a smooth transition from blue to pink without harsh lines.

Step 2

Apply correction to the copy of the sky Image- Adjustments- Hue/Saturation(Image - Correction - Hue / Saturation) and set Saturation(Saturation) to -28.

Then apply Image- Adjustments- Brightness/contrast(Image - Correction - Brightness/Contrast). Install brightness(Brightness) to 75 and contrast(Contrast) to -33.

We finish creating the effect with the settings blendIf(Overlay if) in the window layerstyle(Layer style).

Step 3

Create a new document of 850 x 850 pixels.

With a small brush (B) of medium hardness, draw five black dots of different sizes, approximately as shown below. Note that the dots are not perfect, so don't try too hard.

Step 4

We crop the document to the size of the content (for this we use the tool CropTool(C) (Crop)).

Let's move on Edit- DefineBrush(Editing - Define brush) and in the window that appears, enter the name of the brush "Hair strands".

On panel Window-Brush(Window - Brush) select our brush and reduce Spacing(Interval) up to 1%.

Step 5

The remaining settings are adjusted in the process. Usually, I set up a brush like this:

  • Brush size(Brush size): 1 to 5 pixels
  • flow(Pressure): 75%
  • Pressure Sensitivity for Size: Enabled
  • Pressure Sensitivity for Opacity: Enabled

Keep in mind that I'm using a graphics tablet, so I turn on pressure sensitivity. However, you can also draw with the mouse. To do this, change the brush settings:

  • Smoothing(Smoothing): 30 to 50%
  • flow(pressure): 50%
  • smudge Tool(Finger): Strength(Intensity) 20% (for smearing the ends of the strands)

To make the hair look realistic, I paint the strands with long, quick strokes or short strokes. Do not forget that hair is a very textured and heterogeneous element, so you can add a few hairs that stand out from the total mass.

Working with a mouse instead of a tablet, we use a similar technique, only then we additionally smear the strands of hair with a tool smudgeTool(finger) to sharpen the ends. Do not neglect this, otherwise the hair will look unnatural.

Don't be discouraged if something doesn't work, just practice more and more! Sometimes I redraw one hair 10 times, so be patient!

Step 6

Now let's move on to drawing!

We choose our brush and start adding new strands on the hair with white. To do this, we use the technique described in the previous step.

With black, we can hide the star texture and restore the original pink strands. Try to achieve the result so that all the hair looks like one mass. Also make sure that you do not get a blurry effect, each hair should be clearly visible.

Step 7

Add a new layer above the star hair texture layer.

Hold down the Alt key and with the left mouse button drag the model mask onto this new layer to duplicate it.

Now, using the same technique, we add white strands around the edges of the hairstyle and in the center of the head. This will add shine to the hair and create a backlit effect.

Under the "Model" group, add another new layer and draw more strands to make the result look more interesting and uniform.

Step 8

Add a new layer above the topmost hair layer.

We draw individual hairs that stand out from the total mass, as if blown away by the wind. Make sure they look really growing out of the head, not glued on top. I painted with long sharp strokes.

Step 9

Let's improve the cosmic hair effect and add some glow. This will highlight the hairstyle even more and make it denser and brighter.

To all three layers with white hair add a layer style layer-Layerstyle-OuterGlow(Style - Layer Style - Outer Glow). Install blendmode(Overlay mode) on Screen(Lightening) Opacity(Opacity) at 100%, color at #7673ff and size(Size) - by 18 pixels.

Step 10

Finishing the hair and drawing the stars! To do this, create a new layer (Ctrl + Shift + N).

I like the six pointed star as it is the easiest to draw. For this I use a soft round brush with flow(pressure) 2%.

We draw three intersecting lines with smooth fading at the ends, and at the intersection we press harder on the pen to get a bright center.

On a new layer, repeat the previous steps, but this time with a large brush, paint long blur rays to create a glare effect on the stars.

Group (Ctrl + G) all layers with hair, except for the one under the "Model" group, and name the group "Hair".

4. How to Create Futuristic Makeup and Eyes

Step 1

Create a new layer and scale it down Opacity(opacity) up to 43%.

With a medium brush at 50% hardness, paint over the eyes with black to darken them.

Step 2

We take CustomshapeTool(U) (Arbitrary shape), on the top bar in the menu Shapes(Shape) select a shape Circleframe(Round frame) and draw two rings on the iris of the eyes.

Change the color of the rings to light blue (#b6d8ff).

Add masks to the rings and with a soft brush (B) of medium size hide the upper part of the figures, which is closed by the eyelids.

Step 3

Now let's move on to makeup. We will not use secret tricks or special brushes. Small details are best drawn by hand, so you have more control over the drawing.

Create a new layer in blend mode Multiply(Multiplication).

Using the eyedropper (with the brush active (B) hold down the Alt key to bring up the eyedropper) select a soft shade of pink on the model's makeup (#a9687b).

Soft round brush (B) with flow(Push) 20% gently extend the shadows on the lower eyelid and add a smooth fade. As you paint, adjust the size of the brush to get a better result.

Having finished with adding color, duplicate the shadows and transfer the copy to the second eye.

Step 4

Create a new layer in blend mode Normal(Normal).

Medium size brush (B) with 50% hardness and flow(Press) 5% with white color is drawn at the inner corner of the eye. To get a realistic result, work carefully and do not rush.

Step 5

Create another layer in mode Normal(Normal).

With the same white brush, draw circles in the center of the lips. We reduce Opacity(opacity) layer to 70%.

Step 6

Double click on the layer with white circles to open the window layerstyle(Layer style).

blendIf

Group all layers with makeup and name the group "Makeup".

5. Adding a light effect

Step 1

Create a new layer in blend mode Normal(Normal). Notice how much fun you can do with the normal blend mode.

With a hard brush (B) of medium size (color #ffc5d1) draw a line on the clothes, following the curves of the model's body.

First we draw one solid line, then with the help of EraserTool(E) (Eraser) Erase the excess to end up with a dotted line.

Step 2

Duplicate the line and mirror it. These lines will be the basis of the light effect.

Step 3

Double click on the layer with the left line to open the window layerstyle(Layer style).

At the bottom of the window, set blendIf(Overlay if) as below:

We do not touch the right line yet.

Step 4

Add layer styles to the left line InnerGlow(Inner glow) and OuterGlow(External glow).

  • Inner Glow(Inner Glow): blendmode(Overlay mode) - Normal(Normal), Opacity(Opacity) - 100%, color - white, size(Size) - 51 pixels
  • Outer Glow(External glow): blendmode(Overlay mode) - Screen(Lightening) Opacity(Opacity) - 100%, color - #ff73dc, size(Size) - 18 pixels

Step 5

Right-click on the layer with the left dotted line and select Copylayerstyle(Copy layer style), then right-click on the layer with the right line and select pastelayerstyle(Paste layer style).

Step 6

Create a new layer in mode Screen(Lightening).

With a soft brush (B) of medium size (color #fdc4d0) draw under each short line of the light effect. If the result is too bright, reduce the opacity of the layer.

Step 7

First, create a new document (Ctrl + N). As before, choose a size large enough to fully fit the left dotted line. I got 960 x 2734 pixels.

Drag the dotted line layer onto a new document, delete all layer styles and apply black.

Trim the edges of the document exactly to the size of the line.

Then we go Edit- DefineBrushpreset(Editing - Define Brush) and name the new brush "Light Effect".

Step 8

We return to the main document.

Select our brush and on the panel Window-Brush(Window - Brush) install Spacing(Interval) by 1%.

We also reduce flow(pressure) up to 1%.

Step 9

Create a new layer in blend mode Screen(Lightening).

Activate our new brush, choose pink color (#ff597e) and paint over the original dotted lines.

We click at the beginning of the line and draw to the very end, without releasing the brush. At the end of the line, add light zigzag lines.

If you make a mistake, then the key combination Ctrl + Alt + Z can undo the last action. Practice and don't be afraid to experiment with the brush until you get the result you want!

Step 10

Repeat steps for the right line. Also don't forget to create a new layer in blend mode. Screen(Lightening).

Step 11

Create another new layer in blend mode Screen(Lightening).

With quick strokes, draw short lines of light. This will add small rectangles on the light effect.

As a result, we will add more details, give the effect dynamism and increase its brightness.

Step 12

Duplicate (Ctrl+J) the long and short light lines to increase the brightness and saturation of the effect.

Group (Ctrl + G) all layers with light effect together and name the group "Light".

6. Draw highlights

Why paint highlights when you can use a ready-made texture? The advantage of hand painting is that you have complete control over the process of work, in this case you will not be limited to someone else's finished texture. Let's continue!

Step 1

Create a new layer in blend mode Screen(Lightening).

Using a medium-sized, soft brush (colors #ee3b72 and #0776d2), paint diagonal lines on the model's chest, crossing the light effect from the previous section.

While drawing, hold flow(Pressure) of the brush within 1-5%. Spend long and light strokes, gradually increasing the brightness and saturation of the effect.

Step 2

Create a new layer in blend mode Screen(Lightening).

With a soft brush of medium size using a light blue color (#0776d2) add a glow on the neck and shoulders of the model.

Create a new layer in blend mode overlay(Overlap).

By combining hard and soft brushes, increase the brightness and saturation of the glow on the neck and shoulders of the model.

If necessary, remember to use smudgeTool(Finger) to smudge the ends of the lines.

Step 4

Create a new layer in blend mode Normal(Normal).

Soft white brush flow(Push) 1% draw a diagonal line crossing the highlight on the left shoulder.

In the center, the line should be richer, and gradually fade out at the ends. This effect can be achieved if you start painting with a large brush and then gradually reduce its size with each new stroke.

The hand-painted light is more textured and adds realism and dynamics to the work.

Step 5

We repeat the previous step several times, adding more six-pointed stars or highlights.

Using multiple layers is very handy when creating different lighting effects.

Step 6

To finish the lighting work, we will create a special texture.

Duplicate the "Background" group, right-click on the duplicate and select Mergegroup(Merge group).

Move the merged layer to the very top of the layers panel and increase it so that the pixels are much larger than the original.

With a very large soft eraser (E), partially remove the texture so that the silhouette of the model can be seen.

Step 7

Switch the blending mode of the new texture to Screen(Lightening).

Step 8

Darkening the Texture with Two Adjustment Layers brightness/contrast(Brightness / Contrast) (do not forget to transform them into clipping masks Ctrl + Alt + G):

  • contrast(Contrast): 100
  • brightness(Brightness): -75 and contrast(Contrast): 100

Step 9

Applying a filter to the texture filter- Blur- GaussianBlur(Filter - Blur - Gaussian Blur). Install Radius(Radius) by 10 pixels.

7. Adding Contrast

In order to combine all the elements of the composition together and significantly increase the saturation, we will perform a color correction. To get the final result, add eight adjustment layers.

Please note that each new layer is added above the previous one, if you get confused, double check the order of the layers. Once complete, merge all the adjustment layers into the "Color Correction" group.

Step 1

Below you see a list of the first four adjustment layers - layer- Newadjustmentlayer-Selectivecolor(Layer - New Adjustment Layer - Selective Color Correction).

  1. color colors(Colors) - Neutrals(Neutral), cyan(Blue) +15, Magenta(Magenta) +10, layer opacity 50%
  2. color(Selective color correction): colors(Colors) - Blacks(Black) cyan(Blue) +11, Magenta(Purple) +7
  3. color(Selective color correction): colors(Colors) - Reds(Reds) cyan(Blue) -74, Magenta(Purple) +31, Yellow(Yellow) +28
  4. color(Selective color correction): colors(Colors) - Blues(Blue) cyan(Blue) +58, Magenta(Purple) +5, Yellow(Yellow) +14

Step 2

The next four adjustment layers are two selectivecolor(Selective color correction) and two colorlookup(Color search). Just the last two layers will give us the desired level of contrast.

  1. color(Selective color correction): colors(Colors) - Cyans(blue) cyan(Blue) +32, Magenta(Purple) -28, Yellow(Yellow) -10, Black(Black) +9
  2. color(Selective color correction): colors(Colors) - Reds(Reds) cyan(Blue) -78, Magenta(Purple) +33, Yellow(Yellow) +35, Black(Black) +26
  3. lookup 3 DLUTfile(File 3) on 250fuji 3510
  4. lookup(Color search): set 3 DLUTfile(File 3) on and reduce the opacity of the layer to 20%

8. Adding a Depth of Field Effect

It's more of an extra step that you can skip. But I advise you to still add a blur effect and experiment with its settings.

Step 1

Select all layers, duplicate (Ctrl+J) them and merge the copies together (Ctrl+E). As a result, we should get a merged copy of all visible layers.

Then we add a filter to the smart object filter- BlurGallery- irisBlur(Filter - Blur Gallery - Aperture Blur). Install Blur(Blur) by 40.

Step 2

With a large soft brush (B) of black color, edit the filter mask and remove the blur in the head area of ​​the model.

We're done!

Additional details can greatly improve your work, and sometimes they are better to paint by hand, instead of using ready-made brushes, textures or photos. As you can see, makeup, hair strands and highlights are great examples because the result is more organic and natural.

As usual, experiment with different techniques and don't forget to share your work below. Also leave comments, questions or suggestions!

Hi everyone!


Today I would like to introduce you to modern trends in photography. We all love to be photographed and take pictures, but when we hear words about the style of photography, for some reason we skip it, believing that this does not particularly apply to our “ordinary” photos, that this applies only to professional photographers.But this is our delusion. Yes, there are styles of photography that are not very applicable to our “earthly” life (for example, glamor is the style of photographs for glossy magazines), but there are directions in photography that, it seems to me, will be of interest to many.

So, the following styles are distinguished in photography (the most common and famous): glamor, retro, vintage, grunge.

We are all familiar with these styles in decor, in clothes, in scrapbook, but there are the same styles in photography.

So, retro style in photography, it is an opportunity to show a certain charm and charm of a past era, which, with the advent of our time of technology, has disappeared into the mists of time. Therefore, retro photographs are distinguished, first of all, by some kind of historical affiliation, sophistication and the embodiment of a sophisticated style. No wonder photos in retro style often become a real decoration of interiors.They carry with them the memory and vivid memories of bygone days, people and events. But it is not easy to make a high-quality photo in retro style today, because modern digital equipment and photographic materials can capture what the old photographic film would not have taken into account. Therefore, black-and-white materials with low sensitivity are used to shoot retro-style photos. If colors are added, then they differ in a minimum of halftones and not in brightness.


The retro style has a lot in common with vintage photo, which differs, first of all, in that vintage-style photos are exclusive and unique and are of the highest quality. "All the best from the past" - such a characteristic can be given to the vintage style. Such photos never become outdated and do not give way to emerging new trends. To achieve the desired result on vintage photography, you need to work hard. All sorts of programs and editors help modern photographers to create high-quality photos in this style, allowing them to transfer scuffs, burnout and other vintage effects.


Style grunge We all know it too, in one way or another. expressiveness,« rebellious spirit » highlight grunge photos. Interestingly, the appearance of the grunge style in photography is associated with rock music. Many popular rock bands in the 80s and 90s had a depressing, melancholy mood in their music. This mood manifested itself in the style of clothing, and over time in a new direction of artistic photography. Photos in this style are usually very heavily edited. A grunge photo can be made from almost any photo.
For example, I selected 3 different photos from my archive and processed them in grunge style:



Recently, a new style has also appeared - vanilla. To be honest, I didn’t find where such a name for the style of photography came from. But, you can roughly trace the logical chain - in the image everything is light, unobtrusive, gentle, airy, romantic. What photos belong to this style:
1. Photo of goodies:
2. Photo of body parts. Since these girls are airy and light, then the parts of the body will be like this:
3. Fashion details. Oh, how many publications have been dedicated to them.
Photos in this style are made very easily in Photoshop, at the end of this post I will give links to photo editing tutorials.

Not too long ago, I noticed that very few photographers create photographs that look like a still-frame from a movie. A couple of famous photographers who shoot in this genre live here in New York. I arranged a meeting with them not only to tell us about their personal projects, but also to talk about how they get a cinematic effect in their photographs.

Whether you like it or not, I personally find this intersection of action and freeze frame very interesting.

For this project, I invited two photographers who shoot in this style and live in New York: Dennis Cacho and Andrew Morar. If you still don’t quite understand what style I’m talking about, just below I give illustrative examples of photographs with cinematic processing.

Some of Andrew's photos:

Andrew, recalling how he came to this style, says that at first he wondered about the composition of the frame. The next step was an interest in working with color. Andrew eventually developed his style in an attempt to take photographs like frozen scenes from a movie.

You can find out a little more information in this short interview:

Dennis also demonstrates the skill and vision of cinematic photography in his photographs:

Andrew and Dennis both share a love of storytelling. When I asked them what drives them to take these kinds of photographs, Dennis chimed in: “I love seeing how much a photograph can convey and tell a story that doesn't exist. If we talk about what attracted me to this genre, then it’s probably the drama with which certain scenes are illuminated in the pictures and the framing feature.”

How it all goes

Dennis and Andrew shoot with the same cameras, but their approaches are slightly different. Andrew mostly shoots with Carl Zeiss primes and adjusts the focus manually using the LCD screen. Dennis changes lenses, but prefers to shoot in a more traditional way - using the viewfinder.

We spent a couple of hours with Andrew and Dennis walking the streets of the city and taking pictures. The main task was to tell the history of the city, but with one nuance - the narration should be from the perspective of the photographer. It was interesting to see how differently the same story can be played by different people.

A few photos of the guys at work:

Andrew (left) and Dennis (right)

Manual focus with lensCarl Zeiss

Tailor Sam, business owner. After a couple of shots, he began to persistently invite us to try on his costumes.

Another heroine is Helen. Lived on the next street for about 50 years.

As Dennis noted, the challenge is not just to capture an interesting subject. It is not only the person in the photo that is important, but also what surrounds this person. Sometimes, before you press the shutter button, you should watch the person in the frame.

Andrew shares a similar view. It is extremely important to provide the viewer with an interesting perspective. Composing a beautiful shot in street conditions, when nothing depends on you, is sometimes very difficult. Sometimes you guess what will happen, and sometimes you don't - that's the problem. On the one hand, such spontaneity sometimes causes difficulty, and on the other hand, this is precisely what captures this genre of photography.

Some photos of Dennis:

Posing Sam.

And some shots from Andrew:

Helen agreed to pose

Andrew captured Sam as he scans passers-by, looking for a buyer who could buy a suit from him.

Are the guys really telling a story that can be tied together? The history of the city where everything is interconnected. It's up to us, the viewers, to decide.

Benefits in working with clients

It's funny, but for both photographers, the practice in this genre has become useful in working with clients. Andrew explains:

“I met my favorite photographers from all over the world who came to New York to visit me, among other things. I happened to be part of advertising campaigns, collaborated with Canon - Asia, Carl Zeiss Lenses - Germany”. I also did commercial shoots for major hotels and business projects in New York. And at the moment I'm working on a video series with Dj Premier.

Dennis has also used cinematic effects with clients:

“This genre has helped me get several commercial clients. Once I was asked to shoot an engagement in this style, the couple wanted to get away from traditional photography.”

How to get a cinematic effect in photos

I asked the guys how they get this movie effect. Both came to the conclusion that there is no magic formula that can be applied to all photographs. But, despite the fact that each individual frame has a lot of its own nuances, nevertheless, there is one general approach.

Andrew described his approach as follows:

I start processing in DPP (Digital Photo Professional), here I straighten the RAW file. I adjust the tones and play around with the curves a bit, then I load the photo into Lightroom. In Lightroom, I'm already doing color grading, correcting perspective, and cropping. I add the finishing touches if necessary in Photoshop.

Dennis prefers to do basic color manipulation in Lightroom. The work on the image is divided into several simple steps, which, in turn, bring tremendous changes.

Step 1

Open the RAW file in Lightroom.

Step 2

Adjust the color range with the sliders in the section split tone. Warm tones have been added to this photo to make the colors look even more autumnal.

Step 3

Adjust color saturation and glow (color saturation, luminace).

Step 4

Adjust dark tones, color temperature and shadows.

Step 5

Add a vignette effect and some noise to make the photo look less digital and more like film.

Step 6

Export the file to Photoshop.

Step 7

Create a new black filled layer below the main layer.

Step 8

Use the tool marquee tool(Rectangular area) and choose fixed values ​​for the height and width of the image. Set the width to 16 and the height to 9 to get a widescreen image. Stretch a rectangular area to cover the area of ​​the 16:9 image. Then in the menu go to Image > Crop(Image - Crop).

Step 9

For a fixed value marquee tool enter 2.35 for the width and 1 for the height to create an anamorphic cinematic format. Select the area, but don't crop it yet. Instead, we return to the layers panel and create a layer mask, click on the link that connects the layer and the mask to disconnect them from each other.

Step 10

Back to the layers panel. Right click on the layer mask and select the graph Apply Layer Mask(Apply Layer Mask).

Step 11

To fit the image perfectly between the black porridge, press the Cmd (Ctrl on Windows) and A keys to select the entire document, then right-click on the Layer Mask and select Apply Layer Mask.

Step 12

Click on the layer, go to the menu Layers - Align Layers to Selection(Layers - Align layers to selection) to align the image vertically, check Vertical Centers(Vertical centers).

For more details and detailed instructions on cinematic framing, see this video tutorial:

Conclusion

I hope that the article was useful to you, and you can diversify your photos with a new style of processing. I think it's an amazing idea to turn photos into freeze frames from a movie. I am sure that in the future we will see an increase in the popularity of this view of photography, because cinema is something that never goes out of style.

Similar posts