Installation (launch) of the aquarium. Starting an aquarium step by step using modern aquarium chemistry How to fill a fish tank

Hello dear readers! I am glad to welcome you again on the pages of my blog. Today I would like to touch on the topic of launching an aquarium. Despite the fact that I already have a similar article on the site, I described in it a safe launch without the use of various aquarium chemistry and other useful features. In the same article, I want to tell you how a modern start-up is done with the money to buy expensive aquarium equipment, aquarium chemistry and special tests. So let's get started.

Despite the fact that I have already told you how to properly start an aquarium, I often receive emails from readers where they share their problems. As a rule, 50-60 percent of errors were made during the launch and nothing else. In order not to write huge petitions in the comments on this topic and in mail letters, I always directed people to an existing article.

The purpose of today's material is to touch upon all the smallest details and aspects of launching a full-fledged closed ecosystem, so that the person who reads this manual can dispel doubts once and for all and shed light on their gaps in knowledge. In no case do I brag about my unrealistic knowledge in aquarism, there are people much more experienced and competent than me, but every self-respecting aquarist should know how to properly run a modern aquarium.

General points

First, let's define what an aquarium is? An aquarium is a complex closed ecosystem that has certain conditions and parameters that are comfortable for living in it for various types of living beings and microorganisms. There is probably no definite standard for an ideal aquarium, but any aquarium must meet the basic criteria, and everything else is separate particulars and differences.

The majority of beginner aquarists believe that an aquarium is a tank with fish and nothing else. This is the biggest misconception! On fish and plants, the light does not converge like a wedge; a huge number of living organisms live in the aquarium, which constantly interact with each other. Therefore, after the launch, the aquarist should set out to help the ecosystem establish a connection invisible to the eye between all the inhabitants and the links of one big life chain.

Any launch of an aquarium includes several key steps, the implementation of which should be a dogma for any aquarist:

Aquarium selection;
Selection of a place for an aquarium;
Installation of a stand (pedestal);
Direct installation of the aquarium itself;

After fulfilling the above three conditions, you need to do the following:

Lay a nutrient substrate and aquarium soil on the bottom of the jar;
Arrange all available decor elements according to the prepared plan;
Put some water into the aquarium so that it slightly covers the substrate and plant aquarium plants;
Fill with water and add all the necessary aquarium chemicals to speed up the formation.

After fulfilling the above requirements, let's look at the most important launch steps in more detail.

Choosing an aquarium

To date, there is a fairly large variety of forms of aquariums:

corner;
round;
With a convex front wall;
triangular;
Hexagonal;
Cylindrical;
Classic rectangular;

It is on the latter that we will stop our choice. Why? Let's figure it out. In triangular and corner aquariums, it is very difficult to correctly position the lighting, as dead zones can appear where there will be a lack of light. Accordingly, plants planted in those areas will suffer from a lack of light and eventually die.

Aquariums of a round, cylindrical shape and with convex front walls will greatly distort the picture, so we also reject this option. The ideal option is a classic rectangular aquarium with smooth walls. In such a jar, it is quite simple to organize the correct light mode and it is possible to create a really cool hardscape.

Choosing a place for an aquarium

I would like to warn novice colleagues right away - choosing a place for an aquarium is also a very important step, since its further well-being depends on it. In no case should you put an aquarium where direct sunlight will fall on it, as this can cause the water to bloom. It is also not recommended to install aquariums near doors and passages to other rooms, as frequent walking by people can scare the fish. Window sills and places next to radiators and other heating devices are not suitable for us either. The most ideal option is the corner of the room or some kind of niche. We will put our child there.

Aquarium installation

So, we found a suitable place, now it's time to install the cabinet. The stand for the aquarium must have high strength, as it will withstand a solid weight. As an example, let's consider a 200 liter aquarium. The weight of the can itself will be about 60-80 kilograms, add here 40-50 kilograms of soil, stones, a filter and water, you get about 500 kilograms. Now you understand why the choice of cabinets should be taken seriously?

There must be a central partition in the cabinet, because under the weight of all this colossus, the top plate can bend and the aquarium will simply burst. And believe me, your neighbors from below will never thank you for this, as 200 liters of water will be spilled on their heads.

The curbstone must be set strictly according to the level in both planes. What is it for? When the aquarium is not yet filled, installation out of level is not at all scary. But when you fill it up, a concentration of stresses may arise in some place and sooner or later your aquarium may also burst or leak. And we do not need this, you see. Therefore, remember - strictly according to the level.

Next, we need to inspect the tank itself. Pay special attention to the quality of the seams, in the place where the two glasses are glued together, there should be no air bubbles, silicone cracks and other defects visible to the eye. Then inspect the glass itself and the sections, how the edges are processed. The edges of the glass, where they were cut off, should not be sharp and have burrs. Then, as in the right way, you need to fill the aquarium with water and see if it is flowing. If everything is in order, wash the jar with soda without using detergents.

Before installation, wipe the top plate of the cabinet with a soft fiber and sweep away all dust particles and other small abrasive from it. Place a thin rubber mat or a sheet of Styrofoam a couple of centimeters thick under the aquarium. Just make sure that no grain of sand gets under the aquarium. Any more or less tangible abrasive can also cause stress concentration and the can can leak or burst. Next, glue the background and set up the aquarium. The area of the top plate of the cabinet should be slightly larger than the area of the bottom of the aquarium. It is not allowed to protrude beyond the edge of the aquarium wall plate. Why? I think you already guessed.

Running an aquarium

We start the launch by laying the nutrient substrate and the soil itself. These two components are the most important components in the life of aquarium plants and the entire aquarium ecosystem. From the aquarium soil, plants draw the nutrients they need for life, and the substrate also acts as a biological filter in which beneficial nitrifying bacteria settle.

I will not dwell on the issue of choosing a substrate and the substrate itself, I will only say that it is difficult to give a clear and definite recommendation. In this matter, the aquarist himself determines what type of substrate and what color he likes best and what nutrient substrate to use. I want to draw your attention to the mandatory aspects, and all the subtleties of the choice are only your preferences:

Substrate and aquarium soil are two different things. The substrate is a special substrate from which aquarium plants will consume nutrients throughout their life. Nutrient intake will be through the root system. The soil is also a substrate, in which there is a small proportion of useful elements, but it plays the role of a biofilter and serves for decorative purposes.
The nutrient substrate should be laid directly under the rhizome of the plant. If you think that you will need to cover the entire bottom of the aquarium with a nutrient substrate, then you are greatly mistaken. We decided to plant plants only in the corners or in the center of the aquarium, pour the substrate in the corners or in the center.

Very important! In no case do not use a substrate in an aquarium if you do not plan to plant live plants in it or there will be 3-5 of them. Otherwise, you will have a serious algae outbreak and most likely you will have to restart, but without a substrate. You will end up with a situation where, after launch, the substrate begins to release nutrients into the water, and there is no one to consume them. Accordingly, it will play into the hands of the simplest, that is, algae.

If there will be a limited number of plants in the aquarium, then under the rhizome of each plant, you can put either clay balls or special tablets that can be bought at a pet store.
The aquarium soil should have a porous structure and should not contain metallic impurities. It is easy to check this - drop acid on the ground, if it hisses, then such a substrate is not suitable.

When the substrate is distributed according to the plan for future planting, it's time to also place plant fertilizer capsules, granules and tablets on the substrate to populate beneficial microflora and neutralize harmful nitrogenous compounds. It is also necessary to introduce preparations to remove chlorine and heavy metal compounds from tap water, for example, AQUAYER AntiToxin Vita or similar products from other manufacturers.

When all the necessary preparations have been made, fertilizers have been added, bacteria are settled, soil can be distributed along the bottom of the aquarium. The minimum thickness of the substrate layer should be at least 4-5 centimeters in a planted aquarium. You can learn how to choose soil for an aquarium from. There are a lot of varieties of soils, again you choose, but it must meet three main criteria:

The fraction should be homogeneous, this will help to avoid its caking and souring;
Grains of the substrate should not have sharp edges, as aquarium inhabitants (especially bottom ones) can easily get hurt;
The porous structure of the particles (this will allow more beneficial bacteria to settle);
The absence of metal inclusions in the composition of the soil.

Table of the formation of a normal biofiltration background in an aquarium

Arranging decorations and planting plants

When you have created the necessary landscape, it's time to place stones and driftwood. There are a lot of options for decorating aquariums in the Hardscape style, just go to the search engine and google the pictures. The main thing is that you have access to good and interesting stones, as well as be able to choose a sufficiently large number of different types of aquatic plants.

The correct planting of plants is shown in the figure below.

According to all the rules for designing an aquascape or hardscape, plants should be planted as follows:

In the foreground are the shortest plants, or as they are also called ground cover (,);
Before planting the plant, you need to remove dead leaves and trim the roots, while leaving only a few centimeters of rhizome;
Planting ground cover plants should be carried out in wet soil;
If you plan to plant a lot of grass, then periodically wet the already planted plants with a spray bottle;
Plants with a large and massive rhizome are planted by hand, ground cover - with tweezers;
If plants have a red pigment, then they should be in the most illuminated areas;
If mosses are used, then they can be tied with a fishing line or thread to a snag or stone.

When all plants are planted and water is added to the aquarium, tablets designed to accelerate the adaptation of planted plants (eg Tetra Plantastart) should be added to the aquarium.

After pouring water, a bacterial film may form on the surface. It is removed with a newspaper spread over the surface. A few days after starting, the water may become cloudy - this is a normal phenomenon caused by dust from the aquarium soil. After a few days of filter operation, all mechanical suspension will pass through the filter. In addition to mechanical turbidity, bacterial turbidity may also appear - this is a signal for the aquarist that biological processes have started.

If a snag has been used, white mucus may appear on it. There is nothing terrible here, it is organic in nature. It means that you have processed the snag badly. You can remove it mechanically, or you can get sucker catfish (,) that will quickly clean your driftwood.

As the aquarium matures, the plants will feel the lack of fertilizer. Special fertilizers for aquarium plants will help you with this. They are:

Complex;
Microfertilizers;
macrofertilizers;

In pet stores you can find a fairly wide range of manufacturers of fertilizers for plants, among which the developments of Sergey Ermolaev are now the most popular. Two more important factors for the successful development of the herbalist are the presence of CO2 and proper lighting. You can read how to choose lighting for an aquarium in, and about the importance of CO2 in an aquarium -.

That's all for me, I hope the material will be useful for you and you will never make the most common mistakes when launching your creations.

Before filling the aquarium with water, it must be rinsed. Next, the washed soil should be poured to the bottom. If, the soil is not purchased, but collected by one's own in nature, then it must be boiled. It is advisable to lay the soil at an angle, so that there is a little more of it at the back wall of the aquarium.

After the soil (substrate for plants) is laid, the aquarium is filled with 5-10 cm of water, depending on its volume. Water does not have to be boiled, but if you have a household one, then it is advisable to use it. At the same time, the poured water should be cool, as it contains a minimum amount of bleach and other chemicals. In order not to damage the laid soil, you need to put a saucer upside down on the bottom of the aquarium and pour water on it in a thin stream.

Next, we proceed to the design of the aquarium - we lay stones, driftwood, sculptures, plant plants. When the design is finished, add water to the end on the same saucer. You need to fill the aquarium up to 5 cm from the edge.

The optimum temperature of the water poured into the aquarium for the most popular fish should not exceed 28 degrees.

Running an aquarium

You can not run immediately after it is filled. Between these processes should take at least a week, and preferably two weeks. If you do not have live plants in the aquarium, then this period should be about a month. This is necessary in order for the microorganisms necessary for the normal life of fish to start up in the water.

When launching fish of other organisms (snails, shrimps, crabs), it is necessary to take into account the optimal temperature regime for them. Keeping in mind that the water was poured cool, for heat-loving fish it needs to be heated with a special aquarium heater. At the same time, for fish that love cool water, it is not specifically required to cool it.

Water condition

The aquarist should always monitor the condition of the water in the aquarium - its general hydrochemistry and especially its oxygen content. All indicators of water, including its temperature, must meet the requirements of the organisms in it. At the same time, in order to maintain optimal water indicators, the water in the aquarium must be periodically replaced both partially and completely, depending on its volume. Also, any aquarium needs a filter.

Indicators of aquarium hydrochemistry - oxidizability, hardness, concentration of oxygen, carbon dioxide, ammonia, ammonium ions, nitrates and nitrates.

If you properly pour water into the aquarium, start it correctly and control the state of the water in it, then it will last for many years.

The first launch of an aquarium requires responsible preparation. First you need to study the information and purchase the necessary equipment. Before starting, you should already understand what inhabitants will inhabit the aquarium and how much space they need. Based on this, the shape and size of the aquarium is selected, and then all the rest of the equipment: filters, lamps, thermometers, heater, compressor. As well as the background and decorations (optional). They must correspond to the characteristics of the aquarium, the number and needs of its inhabitants.

If you want to decorate the aquarium with plants, you also need to purchase them in advance. Be sure to check that they are compatible with the fish.

Decide on a place.

We wash and check the aquarium.

Before decorating the aquarium, you need to wash it and check for defects. If the aquarium is clean, it is enough to rinse it with tap water, without disinfectants. Place the aquarium in the tub and fill it with water. Check carefully for leaks. If no defects are found, proceed to the next step.

We set up the aquarium and decorate the background.

Install the aquarium in a pre-prepared place and fix the background (optional). The background is drawn up before the soil is laid, and even more so before the aquarium is filled with water.

We lay the soil.

Fill the bottom with soil. If there are plants in your aquarium, then the soil should consist of two layers. The first is nutritious, the second is classic, natural color, 2-4 mm in diameter. For example, this is a combination of Tetra Complete Substrate (nutritional) and Tetra Active Substrate (classic).

The total thickness of the soil should be approximately 5-8 cm, depending on the capacity of the aquarium. In small aquariums, the optimal thickness is up to 6 cm.

We install equipment and decorations.

The next step is to install the hardware. Bring the equipment to the aquarium, carefully install the equipment according to the instructions, but do not connect it yet.

When installing an external filter, measure the required length of hoses that will circulate water from the aquarium to the filter and back, and cut off the excess to avoid kinks and save space. The internal filter is usually installed in one of the rear corners of the aquarium. If desired, it can be decorated, but so that the water circulation at the filter is not disturbed.

Place the decorations in such a way that they do not interfere with the view of the aquarium, the operation of the equipment and do not occupy all the free space. The fish should have enough room to move.

Use only special decorations. They are cleaned and completely safe for aquarium inhabitants.

We plant plants.

It's time to decorate the aquarium with plants (optional). You can choose artificial or live vegetation, at your discretion. How exactly to plant plants depends on their type. But for decoration there is a general rule: the space at the front wall of the aquarium should be planted with low plants, and at the back with tall ones.

We fill with water.

When the equipment and decorations are installed, and the plants are planted, you can fill the aquarium with water. Plain tap water is best for this. First, she needs to be allowed to settle for 3-4 days, in a glass container without a lid.

How to properly fill the aquarium? Place a shallow plate on the ground and pour water into it so that it slowly drains from it onto the ground. If water is immediately poured onto the ground, it will wash it out, and your work on decorating the aquarium will go down the drain.

After filling the aquarium, do not rush to populate its inhabitants. A new aquarium is a dead environment and the fish will die in it. Release the first fish after about 7 days. During this time, a small aqua world will be installed in the aquarium, which will friendly accept the inhabitants.

We connect the equipment.

Connect the equipment as soon as the aquarium is filled. Carefully monitor its operation and measure the water parameters regularly. At the time of settling with fish, everything should be in perfect order!

Ahead of the most interesting - the settlement of the aquarium. We will talk about how to put fish in an aquarium in our next article.

Setting up an aquarium is not as easy as it seems. At first, it may seem that all components of the ecosystem are functioning normally, but after two weeks the space will be filled with algae, the fish will become sickly, and the plants will fade. There can be many reasons for this, but, most likely, the whole thing is in violation of the aquarium launch technology. Step by step instructions from scratch will help to avoid this.

Setting up an aquarium is not easy.

List of required items

Before setting up an aquarium for the first time, it is best to make sure that all the components are prepared and ready to be installed. For convenience, you can make a checklist with all the necessary equipment. A standard beginner's kit should include:

Aquarium. It is advisable to choose a model of large or medium sizes, as it is more convenient to maintain the necessary parameters in them.
Ground. Must ensure normal water circulation to avoid stagnation and the appearance of harmful bacteria. Pebbles, coarse sand and gravel are great for this. It is desirable to avoid substrates based on calcium and limestone.
The soil must provide adequate water circulation.
Filter. A good filter should pass through the entire volume of the aquarium at least 3-5 times per hour. This guarantees complete water purification from blockages.
Replaceable sponges for the filter. Until a working ecosystem is established, they will be needed in large numbers to keep the water clean and clear.
Heater and thermometer. An important element of maintaining a constant temperature in the aquarium, especially if tropical fish live in it.
Decorations and live plants.
Water test kit. It is very important to purchase a quality test kit. This will test the quality of the liquid before introducing the fish and planting the plants. The basic kit should include tests for indicators such as PH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.
Siphon. With it, you can effectively and quickly clean the aquarium soil from feces and debris. Clean soil contains less nitrates and creates more comfortable conditions for fish.
Net. Useful for removing dead plant matter, food debris, and moving live fish.
Scraper. It is necessary for cleaning the walls from overgrown algae.
A bucket of infused water.

After all the items from the list are purchased, you can safely proceed to the launch.

Soil preparation

Before filling the soil in the aquarium, it must be rinsed without fail. Many beginners do it wrong or forget about it. As a result, after adding water, dust and debris rises from the soil, which do not settle for several days. In addition, trash can contain toxic chemicals as well as harmful bacteria.

Before you start the aquarium from scratch, you need to fill the soil in a bucket and fill it with water. You need to wash the pebbles very carefully, actively mixing everything with your hands. After a few minutes, drain the dirty water. Repeat the process about 4-5 times until the water becomes clearer.

In some cases, the soil may not be completely washed out. There is nothing to worry about, as fine and silty substrates will naturally settle in the aquarium over time.

Substrate placement

It is necessary to fill in the cleaned gravel slowly and best of all in small parts. This will help avoid damage to the bottom of the aquarium. Then the soil should be smoothed out with your hands to create an even base with a thickness of at least 3-5 cm.

Filling the aquarium with water

Filling the aquarium with water is best done with a hose. However, it is not critical to use a small bucket for this. The main thing is to pour water slowly so as not to raise dust from the bottom.

If uninfused water is used for filling, you need to take a dechlorinator for purification. In the future, the device will save a lot of time during a water change.

Connecting the heater and filter

The filter, as one of the important components of the normal functioning of the environment, requires special attention during startup. There are a few key things to keep in mind before installing it:

Gently clean the filter sponge under the tap or in a bowl. Because sponges are stored in a warehouse or store, they contain dust and debris that contaminate the aquarium.
It does not hurt to wipe the filter housing itself.
Place the sponge back into the aquarium filter. If it is an external device, you will need to manually fill the tank with water to start it.

After preparing the filter, it can be attached to the aquarium. If the device has a power regulator, it is advisable to "drive" it to the maximum for the first day.

Heater setting

A good choice is a heater that fits comfortably into the aquarium. To heat a large volume of water, it is recommended to use two devices. It is not necessary to pre-prepare the heater, you can only wipe it with a damp cloth before immersing in water. You can also check it for any violations in the integrity of the shell.

To install the heater, you just need to attach it with Velcro to the glass. It is advisable to choose a place where there will be a good flow of water and the least visibility. After that, you can turn it on. The recommended temperature for a regular aquarium is 23-27 degrees Celsius. While the heating element is active, a light will usually come on - this will help in the heating cycling process.

Light and scenery

The final element of a workable reservoir is light. With the right settings, it will start the process of creating bacteria to maintain the ecosystem. Having selected suitable lamps that can provide natural light in the aquarium, the aquarist needs to place them on the lid of the tank. It is important to maintain an 8-hour lighting schedule, so for convenience, you can also get a special timer.

Like all components of the aquarium, stones, artificial plants and other decorations must be thoroughly washed. In fact, all these things contain a lot of dust and dirt hidden from view.

Putting the aquarium into operation

Preparing the aquarium for the launch of fish is the most important stage of preparation, since it depends on it whether the ecosystem will develop or the environment will become uncomfortable for fish and plants.

It is important to monitor the ecosystem during and after the cycle. This can be done with your own fresh water testing kit. You can’t do without it if you plan to breed whimsical fish species or start an aquarium with plants. In addition, the kit is necessary to control the state of the water after the start. It can warn of an early disaster and is a great investment that will ultimately save you money on fish care and ecosystem restoration.

For most experienced aquarists, maintaining the life of the system is impossible without constant control over the ongoing processes within the ecosystem.

Settlement of fish

After a successful start, you can finally launch the fish. There are several recommendations for the normal adaptation of pets in a new environment.

Immediately after starting, it is better to add several fish at a time. A recently launched aquarium is still building up the required levels of beneficial bacteria. Adding a lot of fish can overwhelm these bacteria and break the fragile integrity of the ecosystem. As soon as the first fish successfully adapt (it takes about 2 weeks), you can add the next ones.

For beginner aquarists, it is better to start the first aquarium with simpler fish. For these purposes, Molliesia, Guppies and Barbs are perfect. Among the main advantages:

endurance;
beautiful coloring:
ability to cope with minor disturbances in the operation of the aquarium:
active reproduction in almost any conditions.

For the health of the fish, it is important not to overpopulate the aquarium.

It is desirable to keep from 3 to 5 fish in a tank of medium volumes. It is very important for the health of the fish that the aquarium is not overcrowded. In the case of small schooling fish, the number can be increased to 7 fish. If we are talking about a large volume, then several types of fish will feel comfortable in one place.

Keeping the Tank Clean

You can know how to properly start an aquarium, but without proper operation, all the previous steps will be useless. Maintaining the purity of soil and water are important parameters for maintaining a balance in the ecosystem.

First of all, regular water changes are important for cleanliness. Ideally, you should change the water at least once a week. However, in most cases, such a schedule creates a lot of inconvenience. You can limit yourself to one replacement per month.

A water change is necessary as it helps to remove any toxic substances. As fish waste and uneaten food decompose, it turns into ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Ammonia and part of the nitrite are removed by nitrogen exchange, but the nitrate remains. The only way to get rid of nitrates is to change the water. This substance is not dangerous in small amounts, but eventually it will rise to the level of toxicity. That is why it is important to change the water from time to time.

Starting an aquarium is a rather complicated process and requires careful preparation to complete it. Before you populate the fish, you will need to purchase the artificial reservoir itself, decorative elements, vegetation, the necessary equipment (filter, aerator), light. For the correct launch of a new aquarium, it is not enough to install everything that was purchased, fill in water and populate living creatures, a certain biological environment (microflora) must be established in the reservoir. To make everything clear, you need to consider the phased process of preparing the reservoir for settlement, which is especially important for beginners.

Preparatory activities

Before you start the aquarium, it must be prepared for this process, namely, washed. Do not use soap or other detergents. The best option is baking soda because it is non-toxic. After washing, the reservoir is rinsed several times with running water. Then you need to decide on the location of the vessel. You can install it almost anywhere in your home.

The main condition is the exclusion of direct sunlight.

In addition, it is recommended to place the pond in a dark place in the room. Fish need bright lighting only during the spawning period, so it is better to organize artificial light. With constant exposure to sunlight, green algae will grow in the aquarium. They cover glass, planted plants, and the water itself blooms. Therefore, installation near a window is far from the best place. In addition, the aquarium should be located on a special structure or pedestal that can withstand its weight. In addition to the fact that the surface should be flat, a rubber mat should be placed under the container.

Having placed the reservoir in the chosen place, start by filling it with water to the top. The need for such actions is to remove traces of sealant and other unnecessary substances. After that, the water is completely drained. Together with the liquid, all unnecessary materials will leave the aquarium. The next step in the proper start of the aquarium is laying the ground. To do this, fill the reservoir by a third and lay the prepared pebbles.

Fine gravel is considered the best, the individual elements of which do not exceed 5 mm.

It is desirable to use a material with a neutral alkaline reaction. If the soil is chosen correctly, an optimal microclimate will be formed in the new aquarium without places where water can stagnate and there is no circulation.

The choice of soil should be given special attention, since this material is considered to be a natural biofilter for all microorganisms. It follows from this that the success of launching an aquarium for the first time largely depends on the correct choice of material and its laying, therefore, prepared soil is used so as not to bring pathogens into an artificial reservoir. The procedure is quite simple, but necessary. You should start by calcining and boiling the pebbles. Calcination is performed in the oven, boiling - on the stove in a suitable container. Having done such actions, the soil is laid on the bottom and water is poured to the required level.

Preparation of microflora

From the very beginning, the filter, compressor and lighting can be omitted. In most cases, tap water is poured into the vessel, so at least a day must pass for the liquid to get rid of chlorine and reach room temperature. Further preparation of the aquarium for launch involves planting plants. To provide the algae with the necessary conditions, lighting is installed.

The power of the light source is calculated based on the volume of the reservoir: 0.35 W should fall on 1 liter.

At first, it will be enough to highlight the vessel for 8 hours.

There are certain plants that are recommended to be planted first:

hornwort;
pterygoid fern;
Indian water fern;
fast growing plants.

The quick start of the aquarium is complicated by the insufficient number of bacteria that process the waste products of the inhabitants. In the process of dying off the leaves of these plants, the number of these bacteria increases. Every novice aquarist strives to get the fish in as quickly as possible, but nevertheless, you will have to wait a bit. After the plants are planted, it should take some time for them to adapt and start growing. All the measures taken make it possible to establish a primary balance in an artificial reservoir.

The process of microclimate formation:

water at first becomes cloudy due to the active reproduction of microorganisms;
after 3-4 days, transparency will return to normal;
as a result of the absorption of oxygen and organic matter, ammonia accumulates;
increased vital activity of bacteria normalizes the aquarium microflora.

How long should the reservoir stand before launching the fish? There is no definite period, since everything depends on the temperature regime, the volume of the vessel and the plants. An aquarium ready to welcome its inhabitants should emit a slight smell of fresh grass, but not silicone.

How to plant aquarium plants?

One of the stages of starting an aquarium is planting plants. Plants that attach to snags and stones should be planted first if you plan to install such decorative elements. It is advisable to do the procedure before filling with water, since if it is available, it is not very convenient to do this.

If mosses and ferns grow in the aquarium, you can use a nylon thread that wraps around the substrate.

Water should be poured as the vegetation used is planted: first, low-growing grass is planted, then tall. How to properly start an aquarium? To fully answer this question, first of all, ground cover plants are planted for the foreground, for example, Eleocharis, Glossostigma. Bushes of such vegetation are divided into smaller ones and placed 1 cm apart, which will allow them to grow rapidly. Planting is done with tweezers down with the roots, and so that the bushes do not float up, they are pressed with soil. Then they proceed to long-stemmed plants, which are planted in bunches.

Starting an aquarium for the first time is recommended with plenty of vegetation to avoid an algae outbreak. A small number of plants are not able to resist the spread of algae. In addition, not all nutrients can be assimilated by plantings, as a result of which they remain with algae. With a large volume of the aquarium, a considerable number of plants will be required, which can be quite expensive and this point must be taken into account.

However, over time, the grass will grow, it can be sold, thereby recouping the investment. If we are starting an aquarium from scratch, then Riccia is a useful plant, which is characterized by low cost and unpretentiousness. It is it that is recommended to be used at the stage of launching the reservoir.

Installation and verification of equipment

When all the above procedures are completed, the equipment can be installed and checked in a new aquarium. It is better to place the heater next to the filter, which will ensure uniform heating of the water.

It is important to remember that the heating element must be completely under water, but in no case should it be placed under the ground: it will either fail or crack the bottom of the aquarium.

The heating temperature must be set within + 24˚С ... + 25˚С, and after warming up, check it with a thermometer. Many heating elements are equipped with a light bulb that indicates the operation of the device.

The internal filter is installed at the very bottom, since this is where pollution accumulates. It does not make sense to place filtering equipment 10–20 cm above the ground. In many cases, a compressor is used instead of filter aeration. If the filtering device also requires the function of saturating the water with oxygen, then it should be located at the optimum depth. Aeration works the better the closer to the surface, but they try to place the filter as low as possible.

Connecting an external filter is somewhat more complicated. The first thing to do is read the instructions. Tubes designed for the intake and release of water are located in different places in the aquarium. Thus, water stagnation can be avoided. It is best to place the water intake near the bottom, putting on a pre-filter, which will prevent the ingress of large debris or living creatures.

Before turning on the device, it is filled with water using a manual pump.

Air may not come out of the device immediately, so you should not be surprised at the exit of bubbles. In addition, the filter can be quite noisy at first. Tilt the appliance at different angles to quickly remove the remaining air from the appliance.

How to launch fish?

So it's time to start living creatures in the aquarium. If you are just learning the basics of aquarism, then it is better to start with unpretentious fish, which include guppies and zebrafish. If all of the above procedures were performed correctly, then a whole flock of aquatic inhabitants can be planted in a reservoir. At the same time, there is no need to overpopulate the aquarium: about 15 young individuals are released per 100 liters.

Landing must be done correctly:

we bring a package or a jar of fish from the pet store;
expect for several hours, equipping the container with aeration;
drain some of the water and add from the aquarium;
after 1 hour, repeat the procedure;
within a few hours all the water needs to be changed;
move the fish to a common pond.

After the fish is launched, it is recommended to measure the parameters of the reservoir for the first time, for which you will need to purchase testers for ammonia, nitrates and acidity. The first fish should be given live or frozen food. Dry food is not recommended. If you don’t have to choose, then you need to introduce dry food gradually, not forgetting to arrange fasting days. This technology avoids the occurrence of a bacterial outbreak. At first, you should not be puzzled by the issue of changing the water. This event is resorted to only in such cases:

all the inhabitants of the reservoir are in the lower layers;
press the upper fin;
gather in heaps;
swim in flocks or in pairs.

In order to quickly determine if a water change is needed, check the acidity and temperature. At a temperature index of + 25 ° C and a pH above 7.6, part of the water (10–20%) is replaced. If one individual sank to the bottom, it should be placed in quarantine and continued monitoring.

This will lower the ammonia level. After that, the fish are returned back. Starting an aquarium from scratch, the step-by-step instructions of which were described above, together with the settlement of fish, has a direct impact on water quality. A chemical cloud is created around each individual, which affects nearby inhabitants. The more fish in the pond, the more harmful substances act more actively.

How to avoid mistakes?

We figured out how to start an aquarium, but beginners are usually in a hurry and make a lot of mistakes. Therefore, it is worth dwelling on such moments in more detail. As a rule, novice aquarists are in a hurry to introduce fish into a new pond, which is the first mistake. The inhabitants in an unprepared reservoir, if not all, then most of them, simply die. What is the essence of the problem? The fact is that in the new artificial reservoir, the water has not returned to normal, the microflora necessary for the normal existence of fish and other living creatures has not been established in it.

From the very beginning, the water contains a large amount of useful and not very substances, which is harmful to the inhabitants. Therefore, there is no need to try to start the reservoir quickly: the water should settle, the acidity level should stabilize.

Mistakes are not only in a hurry, but also in launching a large number of fish. At the same time, it is not worth populating all the acquired fish into the reservoir at once, since the aquarium simply cannot withstand the load of fish until the biobalance is established. First you need to run unpretentious fish. Then it takes some time for the nitrite and ammonia values to rise and then fall to zero. This will indicate the establishment of the nitrogen cycle and the possibility of further settlement of the vessel.

Even if you prepare the aquarium correctly and run it in accordance with the step-by-step instructions described above, but at the same time populate a large number of fish, the reservoir will be overpopulated, which can lead to the death of its inhabitants.

Therefore, it is important to adhere to a simple formula: about 1 liter of water should fall on a fish up to 5 cm in length, if the living creature is more than 6 cm, then 6 liters per individual will be needed.

In addition, not all species can be kept in one aquarium. Some hobbyists choose fish solely for their appearance, without having an idea about the features of their content (behavior, conditions, etc.). The fact is that fish of the same species can fight among themselves or with other species. All these nuances must be taken into account. If you do not follow these recommendations, the death of the fish will be inevitable. If you plan to keep several types of fish in one reservoir, you need to familiarize yourself with their characteristics in advance and select the same ones both in size and in content requirements.

What must be observed?

A common mistake of beginners is non-compliance with the feeding regimen: underwater inhabitants are overfed. The fish are constantly in search of food, but this does not mean at all that they are hungry. Feed should be given in an amount that is eaten in 5 minutes. When the aquarium is just starting up, they should be fed no more than once a day. If jumps in ammonia and nitrites occur, they resort to the same feeding scheme. For several days, nothing terrible will happen to the fish without food, besides, fasting days will only benefit.

An important point is the correct choice of filtering equipment: the filter must pass through the entire volume of the aquarium at least 3 times per hour.

It is necessary to adhere to the following rule: it is better to install the device with a margin than the water will be underfiltered, that is, pollution will accumulate, especially when the vessel is overcrowded. As a rule, novice aquarists do not have the slightest idea about such a concept as the nitrogen cycle in a reservoir, and the control of the chemical composition of water is not carried out at all. As a result, harmful toxins appear in the aquarium. These parameters are especially important to monitor when starting a new reservoir. Otherwise, at one fine moment, all the inhabitants may die due to the high value of ammonia.

An artificial reservoir requires periodic replacement of water. If this is not done, the water parameters change due to an increase in the concentration of nitrites, ammonia and ammonium, as a result of which the fish are exposed to various diseases. All this can lead to the death of aquarium animals, especially young animals. As you could understand, the process of launching an aquarium is not an easy undertaking, and it will not work out quickly. For everything to go well, you need to follow the recommendations in strict sequence. Only in this case it is possible to organize a beautiful reservoir with healthy inhabitants.