Sockets under cabinets in the kitchen. We plan to place sockets in the kitchen. How to make sockets in the kitchen for the dishwasher and washing machine

There are so many different household appliances in the modern kitchen, from an elementary mixer to a washing machine and dishwasher, that you cannot do without electricity, or rather, without places where you can connect all these kitchen gadgets. Therefore, when planning a kitchen, it is so important to consider the location of outlets in the kitchen. But this is in the second stage. First, you need to calculate how many outlets do you need.

Calculate the number of sockets

It is clear that you will not turn on all electrical appliances in the kitchen at once, so a separate outlet is not needed for each unit. But if you put an insufficient number of them, you will have to use tees or extension cords. So, let's calculate how many sockets will be needed and how many groups of outlets, whether separate lines will be needed and how many.

• Refrigerator - a separate outlet.
• Electric oven and stove - a separate line.
• The hood is a separate outlet.
• Dishwasher and. You can make one line for them if you do not plan to use both machines at the same time.
• Television.
• Microwave.
• Separate outlet for connecting a laptop or tablet.
• Small household appliances.
• Pair of spare sockets.

Explanation: a line is a socket from which a separate cable goes to the meter and has its own machine there. Such an outlet is not connected to the general wiring branched out across the rooms.

We got about 10 outlets. You vary the number according to your needs. But it’s better to install more outlets and different ones (depending on what plugs your appliances have) so as not to bother with tees and not spoil the interior of the kitchen with stretching and hanging extension cords.

Have you calculated the number of outlets you need? Add a couple more just in case. Now you can think about where to place the sockets in the kitchen.
We determine the places for sockets in the kitchen

For large and powerful household appliances, such as a refrigerator, electric stove or electric oven, extractor hood, dishwasher and washing machine, sockets should be located directly next to them. Therefore, we first clearly determine the placement of household appliances (visually), and then we install sockets under them. Do not forget about the technique safely and install sockets away from the stove and kitchen sink.

For the rest of the units, the location of the outlets in the kitchen will be where we are supposed to use them.

• There must certainly be a couple of sockets above the work surface so that you can connect a food processor, blender, mixer, or just an electric lighter, a lamp.
• Dinner Zone. Here you can turn on your laptop or put your phone on charge.
• TV is the main decoration of every room and the kitchen is no exception. Where will you install it? Most likely on a wall bracket. Note that in this place you will need an outlet.

Requirements for various outlets

To know how to properly position the sockets in the kitchen, it’s not enough just to draw them on a sketch or walls, marking them with crosses. It is necessary to take into account various standards and acts on safety. There is no need to learn them by heart, just follow the instructions and common sense. And do not save on your own safety and the safety of your household appliances. High-quality sockets and wiring are a guarantee of long and trouble-free operation of all kitchen appliances.

So, sockets that will be located near the sink or pipes, must be protected from moisture covers and rubber seals. The degree of protection of such sockets is IP 44. And if there are inquisitive children in the house, then the sockets must be covered with curtains or special plugs.

We cannot change the voltage (Volts) in the network - what the energy company supplies us with is what we use. So, you need to take into account the current in the outlet (Amperes) and the power of the unit (Watts). The sockets or their packaging indicate how much total power they can withstand. 10 amperes corresponds to 2.2 kW, and 16 amperes - 3.5 kW (these are the options that produce sockets). However, do not test their limiting endurance. For example, you should not simultaneously turn on a microwave oven with a power of 1000 watts and an electric kettle with a power of 1500 watts at the same time - either the socket will melt or ruin the appliances. The data below will help you navigate the capacities.

• Electric oven - from 2500 watts.
• Electric hob - from 1000-1500 watts.
• Dishwasher - from 1000 watts.
• Washing machine - from 1500 watts.
• Water heater - from 1500 watts.

For such powerful devices, a separate line is required., leading to the electric meter and having its own machine. And don't forget grounding.

• Electric kettle - from 500 watts.
• Microwave oven - from 800 watts.
• Coffee maker - from 900 watts.
• Toaster - up to 1000 watts.
• Food processor - up to 1200-1500 watts.
• Blender - up to 300 watts.
• TV - 200-330 watts.
• Refrigerator - 200-1000 watts.
• Freezer - 300 watts.
• Laptop - 50-75 watts.

And the rest is trifles. Such devices can be connected to ordinary sockets. However, keep in mind that each wire laid in the kitchen must have a cross section of at least 2.5 square meters. mm and life made of copper. This may seem more expensive than conventional cables, but savings are not appropriate here.

In general, the load on the sockets should be calculated with a margin - sum up all the power of kitchen appliances and multiply the result by 2. This will be the degree of wiring endurance.

Types of sockets

There are different types of outlets in the kitchen. Not only "Soviet" and European sockets.

To connect the hood, refrigerator, stove, TV, ordinary wall sockets are suitable. And for the working or dining area, they are not always convenient.

Retractable sockets. They are mounted directly into the worktop, like a capsule, into a wall cabinet, like a periscope, or into a side panel. In addition to sockets, they may have jacks for the phone or the Internet.

Built-in sockets. By pressing the lid, you open the outlet like a book. Such sockets are especially convenient in the dining area.

Outlet location rules

If you decide to deal with electrical wiring yourself, then it will be useful to know how to arrange the sockets in the kitchen correctly. Believe me, there is nothing difficult in this. The main thing is to be careful.

• The height of the socket for the worktop should be about 10 cm above the worktop. Usually, a height of 100-110 cm above the floor is also taken into account, implying that the pedestal itself, for which you work, is 90 cm high. Just install it away from the sink or stove. As an option - retractable or built-in sockets.
• Sockets for built-in household appliances are screwed at a distance of 15-25 cm from the floor. Sockets should be on the side, as the built-in appliances and kitchen set are close to the wall. The current strength in the socket is 32A + 40A (read the instructions for the socket).
• The TV is connected to the outlet directly behind it.
• For the refrigerator and extractor sockets are located at the top. It's more convenient.
• In the dining area, sockets are hidden under the table. The distance from the socket to the floor is at least 30 cm.
• Think about the outlets in the corner - you may suddenly need them.

The socket for the electric oven or hob must be earthed. Otherwise, your furnace will shock - its power is very significant.

Whoever prepares the kitchen design for you - you yourself or a talented and professional designer, the layout of the sockets in the kitchen should be drawn up only taking into account your requirements and wishes and the current instructions GOST 8594-80 (boxes for installing switches and sockets), GOST 7396.1-89 (installation of sockets), SNiP 3.05.06-85 (technical requirements). You can plan to purchase a freezer or a newfangled electric stove in the future. The designer, not knowing about your plans, will not apply the appropriate markup. So make a plan in advance (as shown below) and check the sketch carefully before you start renovating the kitchen.

In a modern apartment, the kitchen is one of the main consumers of electricity. The power of pantographs connected to the electrical wiring in the kitchen can sometimes reach more than half of the entire load of the apartment.

Based on this, the electrical wiring in the kitchen should be carried out by an independent group, and even better by several groups.

Power of electrical appliances in the kitchen

Before work, you will have to draw up a small project or diagram. To do this, the power of all electrical appliances that will be in the kitchen is initially calculated.

Here is a sample list of them:

• lighting - 150-200 watts

• Microwave - 2000 Watts

• Refrigerator - 100 watts

• Dishwasher - 1000-2000 watts

• Kettle electric - 2000 watts

• Oven - 2000 Watts

• Water heater - 2000 watts

• Cooktop - 3500-7500 Watts

Of course, all appliances will not turn on at the same time. But you have to calculate the total power. Most often it is in the range of 10-15 watts.

The maximum power, when several pantographs are switched on at the same time, in an ordinary apartment, as a rule, does not exceed 7 kW.

If you have this power higher than 7kW, then here you already need to think about inputting 380V and distribute the load by phases.

Which cable to choose for the kitchen

Next, you need to calculate the cross section of the common supply wire of the electrical panel and the outgoing wiring to each pantograph. Follow the rules here:

• with a load of devices up to 3.5 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3*2.5mm2

• with a load of devices up to 5.5 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3 * 4mm2

• with a total load of all devices up to 10 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3*6mm2

• with a total load of all devices up to 15 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3*10mm2

Why the VVGnG-Ls brand should be, is detailed in the article below:

Even if you have a house with an old grounding system (without a third protective conductor), still do the wiring with a 3-wire cable. This will save you from additional costs for reconstruction and replacement of wires in the future.

In extreme cases, the third wire will be reserved for zero or phase, in case of a possible break or other damage.

Layout of outlets in the kitchen

After choosing the wiring, you need to decide on the sockets.

Always plan the placement of outlets after the kitchen design has been approved, otherwise there may be problems. For example, the outlets of the work area can easily be in the wrong place, and eventually hide behind the refrigerator.

To ensure that your sockets and switches are in place, take a plan for arranging kitchen furniture.

After that, mark on it all the necessary sockets. You can even do it by hand.

On this plan, it is not yet necessary to clearly tie the installation sites and calculate the dimensions and distances. Just count the number and purpose of each of the outlets.

Number of outlets

How many outlets are required in the kitchen?

Under the category of stationary equipment fall - refrigerator, extractor hood, hob and oven, microwave, dishwasher, garbage disposal.

In addition, it does not hurt to mount one outlet immediately under or near the switch at the entrance to the room.

The zone with switches usually remains uncluttered, and a free point where you can take voltage (for example, for a vacuum cleaner) is never superfluous.

Now mark the points on the apron for connecting non-stationary devices. Lay at least two pieces for each part (right and left) of the kitchen.

This will include an electric kettle, blender, mixer, etc.

Distances and placements

When you have decided on the quantity, it's time to move on to calculating the required dimensions and indents. To do this, draw something like a sweep of the walls where the furniture will stand.

Here you will already need the exact dimensions of the kitchen - the length, height of the room. Gradually, in the form of rectangles, draw the equipment and all the cabinets.

If the kitchen is corner, do the same with the adjacent wall.

Fridge

For refrigerators, manufacturers recommend placing the socket group under the appliance itself, that is, in the bottom row so that the connection is not visible.

It is impossible to say unequivocally with 100% certainty at what height the bottom row of sockets should be made.

This is explained by the fact that if you set it higher, then the embedded appliances will rest against the plugs.

If you intend to turn off the plug quite often, then the bottom connection for the refrigerator is not always convenient. In this case, you can place the whole thing at the height of the working area.

Sockets in the work area and above the countertop

The height of the tabletop is usually 85cm, maximum 90cm. Then there is a wall with a height of 550-600mm and then cabinets.

Place outlets in this area 105cm from the floor.

In this case, they will not be in the middle of the wall, and it will be convenient to cover them with the same microwave.

The minimum distance from the countertop must be at least 5 cm so that the kitchen plinth does not touch them. Locations - one set in any corner, plus between the hob and sink.

As mentioned above, at least two pieces. If you don't like the look of outlets above your kitchen backsplash, consider a pull-out unit from the countertop.

Be sure to consider whether there will be built-in appliances in the upper cabinets. For example, a microwave.

Under it, you will also have to make a separate outlet. Pull the cords from above to the countertop area not according to Feng Shui.

Hood

Also at the top, at a height of 1.9m-2.0m, there is a socket under the hood. However, a lot depends on the brand. If this is a cheap option, then you can get by with the output of the cable and then connect it right inside the equipment.

But if this is an expensive model, then it comes with its own fork. Cutting off the factory plug will void the warranty.

Cooker and oven

In the presence of a powerful hob, either a cable output is made, followed by a connection directly under the panel's terminal blocks, or a special power outlet is installed.

Ovens, unlike cooking ovens, come with ordinary forks, so there is no need to be smart here. Plug them into simple sockets.

When there are cabinets with hinged doors to the left or right of the hob and oven, it is very convenient to place sockets right inside them. Step back 15-20cm from the edge and mount.

If this is not possible, then you will have to connect from the lower group.

In the case of a separate installation of the oven from the hob, for example, at chest height, make a socket for it in the lower cabinet at a height of up to 750 mm.

Dishwasher

According to SP 31-110 2003 p.14.29, it is forbidden to make any sockets under and above sinks or sinks. Therefore, always retreat a few centimeters when installing the socket group near this plumbing. This applies to both the lower placement and the working area at the top.

It is also forbidden to place sockets behind the dishwasher and washing machine.

Near the dining table (if it is near the wall, and not in the center of the kitchen), it is advisable to plan one outlet.

On big holidays, with an influx of guests and relatives in the apartment, you will definitely need to connect something on the table - a mixer, juicer, food processor, etc.

And on simple days, you can easily attach a laptop there when working in the kitchen.

• for a group of sockets into which devices up to 3.5 kW are connected, a 16A automatic machine is mounted

• for devices up to 5.5 kW automatic 25A. Moreover, it is better to extend a separate group to this current collector

You can also navigate according to the following table for choosing machines and cables when connecting the hob:

• since the kitchen is a wet room, plus a huge number of items with a metal case, it is mandatory to install an introductory RCD for a current of 30mA in the shield in front of all machines

• a separate socket is placed on each current collector

This is not only an additional load on the wiring, but also a potential short circuit (due to spilled tea or other liquid).

Common mistakes

The problems that you will definitely encounter in this case are hidden sockets behind cabinets, refrigerators, etc. It is very likely that you will even have to use carriers, since factory cords with a plug will simply not reach the connection points.

The instructions for refrigerators usually indicate a ban on their connection through extension cords. At the same time, the length of the cord is not so big, only 1m.

Therefore, if you know what brand of refrigerator you will have, find a passport on the Internet and see which side the power cord comes out of. Add the width of the refrigerator here and plan the connection point accordingly to get rid of carrying.

And in some models, the freezer can be connected with a separate independent cord, or you will buy a freezer in the future. Initially, you will make only one outlet for the equipment, but in the end you will need two. So it is better to make this block double.

Appliances such as a dishwasher, washing machine (if built into the kitchen), instantaneous water heater, etc. must be connected through an RCD or differential automatic.

No modular machines, let alone "plugs", will ever save you from current leaks.

Even if you do not have a grounding conductor, the RCD will still help and protect in this case.

This location is prohibited by the rules. Step back from the mixer 500mm (the same applies to gas pipes on stoves or hobs) and only then boldly mount the electrical installation.

If the electricians have already wired it there and there is no way to redo it, or you got an apartment with such a repair, then make sure that the sockets under the sink are waterproof (like in the bathroom).

It is also forbidden to mount wiring accessories in the immediate vicinity of the stoves.

In the area up to 25 cm from the floor, plumbers usually install pipes for sinks, washing machines, dishwashers.

Not knowing the exact route, do not rush to ditch the walls, otherwise for you and your neighbors it may turn into a flood and unplanned repairs.

Summing up, I would like to say that the electrical wiring in the kitchen should be done by professionals. Using the tips in this article, you can easily control the entire process and make your competent comments during installation work.

Since the modern kitchen is characterized by an abundance of electrical appliances, special attention should be paid to the number of sockets and questions: how many sockets are needed in the kitchen and HOW to ensure the safety of electrical wiring are far from idle.

And the point here is not only that the electric cords of modern microwave ovens, toasters, electric kettles, hoods and similar kitchen appliances are usually short, but also in the maximum allowable load on the outlet.

It is strictly forbidden to build up wires on your own.

In some exceptional cases, the use of extension cords is allowed, but it is much more advisable to install a separate socket in the kitchen for each energy-intensive device.

The calculation of the number of sockets in the kitchen should also be carried out taking into account the total power of electrical devices allowed for use in accordance with the requirements of power consumption.

How many outlets should be in the kitchen?

• Electric stove.
• Fridge.
• Electric kettle.
• Microwave.
• Hood.
• Dishwasher.

These are the main appliances that are installed in almost every apartment. And here are the additional devices that people use in the process of preparing food and drinks:

1. Coffee machine.
2. Blender.
3. Meat grinder.
4. Toaster.
5. Juicer.

Let's add a TV and additional lighting here, it is obvious that so many appliances came out that it seems that they will need about 20 sockets. In fact, everything is not so scary. We will now describe to you in detail.

How many separate groups should there be in the kitchen

Separate groups are called sockets that are powered from their line and also have a separate machine.

According to the standard, there are usually no more than two or three of them, although in reality, in a good way, there should be much more.

1.Separate line for working area.

This line is intended for such electrical appliances as: kettle, microwave oven, mixers, coffee maker, coffee grinder, etc. Sockets for it are located above the countertop, in the right places. For convenience, there should be at least two sockets with two or three sockets.

It is best if the wire runs through the countertop: for this you need to make a neat cut in the surface, or hide it in a plastic channel.

2. Separate line for washing machine, refrigerator, dishwasher and electric stove.

You can combine power devices, for example, place a dishwasher and a washing machine on the same group, which has a differential machine (power 20 Am). It is worth paying attention that the total power of both devices should not exceed 4 kV.

You cannot perform such a maneuver with a refrigerator - it must be on a separate line. So we recommend not only we, but also the instructions of manufacturers of household appliances.

If you do not want to shorten the operating period of your device, then listen to the following recommendations:

• Do not connect the refrigerator through an extension cord.
• The socket must be under the plug, there should not be any adapters of Chinese origin.
• The ground connection must be good.
• First of all, it is the safety of your apartment and the safety of expensive equipment.

Note! Installing a refrigerator on a shared line with another appliance may lead to incorrect distribution of the mains voltage, which will lead to heavy loads.

Each separate group must be equipped with a differential circuit breaker or a protected RCD circuit breaker.

Obviously, you can save a lot to make electrical work even cheaper, for example:

1. Use cheap machines.
2. Pick up low quality wiring.
3. Use only 2-3 groups (as builders did before).

Such an electrical network will work, and may even never bother you, with the exception of strong voltage and the operation of automatic machines. But no one will give you a guarantee that everything will work properly and there will be no consequences.

Calculation of the optimal height of outlets in the kitchen

We considered the question of how many sockets are needed in the kitchen and tried to give an exhaustive answer to it. Now let's move on to an equally important point - what height should the outlets have.

The most important thing that affects the location of sockets is kitchen furniture and household appliances, where it stands. Let's just make the following remark:

• there must be an outlet near the soft corner / dining area (above the table).

As for the work surface, the minimum distance from the countertop to the outlet is 10 cm. If it’s easier for you to count from the floor, then this is about 95-110 cm.

Note! This is the minimum size, which is still desirable to make it more "impressive", for example, 20 cm from the countertop - safe and practical.

For kitchen appliances such as:

• dishwasher, electric stove (oven) and washing machine, they try to install sockets at a height of 10 cm from the clean floor. This is the size of the top edge of the socket.

This criterion is due to the fact that modern kitchen furniture is installed on legs with a minimum height of 100 mm. On the one hand, you can place the outlet behind the furniture, but this will have to make additional cutouts in the back walls.

1. Under the hood, the socket is mounted: either behind the wall cabinet in which the device is built in, or above the eaves to hide the wires from prying eyes.
2. For recessed fixtures in the eaves, the socket is also installed under the ceiling.
3. Do not forget to place a couple more sockets in the free corners of the kitchen, at a height of 30-40 cm from the floor. Additional power supplies won't hurt.

Typically, the installation of sockets is carried out by the designer at the stage of construction or reconstruction of the premises. Regular sockets are placed in the places recommended by the project. In their calculations, designers proceed from existing building rules and regulations, as well as technical conditions for the use of electrical appliances manufactured by manufacturing enterprises.

Since electrical communications in the kitchen are adjacent to water, this room is classified as dangerous. Therefore, in the kitchen, as well as in the bathroom, all conductive elements of engineering systems, metal cases of household electrical appliances and zero protective conductors of electrical equipment, including plug sockets, must be connected to a common potential equalization system.

In addition, to protect household appliances such as washing machines and dishwashers, in addition to the mandatory residual current device, it is necessary to use selective RCDs.

The number of sockets in the kitchen may exceed the number established according to the project, if the total power of the appliances that are planned to be used in the kitchen exceeds the allowable parameters.

In this case, for the reconstruction of the electrical system of the kitchen, a new design of the power supply will be required and a special permit from the power supply company will be required, which is almost impossible to do legally.

In today's fast-paced world, people are increasingly trying to make their work easier and free up extra time for family and entertainment. Electrical appliances help save energy on washing dishes or cooking. In addition to the usual refrigerator, electric kettle and stove, many in the kitchen have such helpers as microwaves, blenders, slow cookers, double boilers, food processors, dishwashers and other appliances. All these devices help to save a lot of time and energy. But at the same time, they carry a huge load on the power grid of the entire apartment. Kitchen appliances consume almost half of the power of current collectors of the entire apartment. Of course, all devices are not used at the same time, but this does not reduce the load, because along with the listed items, power consumption also goes to other electrical and electronic equipment of the apartment: computer, tablet, TV, air conditioner, washing machine and much more. Based on this, it should be understood that the wiring in the kitchen should be displayed in a separate group, and preferably in groups.

Power consumption of electrical appliances

Before planning the number and height of sockets from the floor in the kitchen, you will have to work on a kind of energy consumption plan. So, below is a list of electrical appliances that will be used in the kitchen, with their power:

• Lighting - 150-200 watts.
• Microwave - 2000 watts.
• Refrigerator - 100 watts.
• Dishwasher - 1000-2000 watts.
• Kettle electric - 2000 watts.
• Oven - 2000 Watts.
• Water heater - 2000 watts.
• Cooktop - 3500-7500 watts.

The following devices require a special connection:

• Dishwasher;
• washing machine;
• hob;
• water heater;
• oven.

The greatest load on the network comes from the operation of the electric stove, oven and water heater.

The usual connection is suitable for a microwave, electric kettle, food processor, refrigerator, electric meat grinder and toaster. At the same time, the dishwasher and washing machine, electric kettle, microwave oven consume the most power. Although all these devices will not be connected to the network at the same time, the load is quite high. Consequently, the average power fluctuates between 10-15 kW, as a rule, for pantographs with a power of 7 kW, with normal and alternate operation of appliances in the house. If this indicator is higher, then it makes sense to output 380 V wiring and distribute it in phases.

Distribution cable

After resolving the issue with power, you need to choose a cable for wiring. The selection rules are simple:

• with a load of devices up to 3.5 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3 * 2.5mm 2;
• with a load of devices up to 5.5 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3 * 4mm 2;
• with a total load of all devices up to 10 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3 * 6mm 2;
• with a total load of all devices up to 15 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3 * 10mm 2.

Regulatory documents and rules for placing sockets in the kitchen

Strict norms and rules that indicate the optimal number and installation height of sockets from the floor in an apartment or private house simply do not exist. Although there is a document that sets out some recommendations for their location and number. So, the document SP 31-110-2003 states that the placement of sockets should be at a height of less than one meter from the floor. The rules for the installation of electrical installations indicate the gap from the outlet to the pipeline with gas (more than 50 cm). Sockets in places of increased danger must have a residual current device (RCD), the operation current of which is up to 30 mA.

European socket installation standards

To date, the wiring is done according to the European standard, this is due to the increase in the new housing stock. According to these rules, their height should be 30 cm from the floor, and the switch - 90 cm. This is also due to the convenience of using electrical appliances by all family members. Suitable for living rooms.

Sockets in the kitchen

It is necessary to plan such moments as the height of the outlets from the floor in the kitchen, taking into account the design of the room itself. Otherwise, these devices may simply be in the wrong place where they are needed, and thus remain idle.

The position along the wall and the height of the sockets from the floor in the kitchen are also determined taking into account the dimensions of the kitchen furniture itself, the length and height of the room. In order not to make mistakes in the calculations, you should draw a kitchen plan on a sheet and after that transfer your project to the kitchen walls and install sockets in the right places, while not forgetting the RCD rules. The distance from the countertop to the outlet should be at least 5 cm, so they can be hidden behind appliances and not disturb the overall picture of the kitchen.

The placement of outlets in the kitchen is also not regulated. You can distribute them, based on expediency. But still there are certain requirements specified in the Electrical Installation Rules. They say that switches and sockets should be located at a distance of 60 cm or more from the doorway of the shower cabin, as well as from the sink. And also the distance to the gas pipeline should be more than half a meter.

These are mandatory requirements of fire safety rules, they must be followed unquestioningly, even if you have to change the design of the kitchen a little.

At what height from the floor are sockets made?

Given the convenience of placing appliances and the frequency of operation of kitchen electrical appliances, special rules have been formed for the placement of sockets. Their height has three levels of placement.

• The first is the height of sockets from the floor in the kitchen 10-15 cm for an electric stove, refrigerator, dishwasher. It is expedient and practical. Having installed kitchen furniture, access to sockets is left only from below. And the wires will not hang on the walls, but will be aesthetically hidden.
• The second is the installation height of sockets from the floor in the kitchen 110-130 cm: devices for turning on a blender, microwave, kettle.
• The third - 200-250 cm - the height of the outlet for lighting and hoods. They are accessible and at the same time hidden behind the kitchen cabinets on top.

An equally important point in the placement of outlets is their required number. There is a golden rule here - there is one outlet for each stationary kitchen appliance, plus two blocks along the edges of the countertop and another one should be placed near the dining table.

How to lay wires?

Having decided on the height of the sockets and their number in the kitchen, you need to decide which way to lay the wires to choose. The following methods are most popular: in a plinth, in a plastic box, in a wall in grooves.

The last method is the most time-consuming, since first you need to make a groove, lay a wire in it, plaster it and cover it with wallpaper or paint it over.

By planning how the wiring will go, you can determine the amount of cable you need. For simple sockets, the cable cross-section is two and a half sq. Mm and six sq. Mm for devices with a large load.

Conclusion

Repair in an apartment, especially planning and laying electrical wiring, is one of the most crucial moments in home improvement. Modern life simply cannot be without an established lighting system and the operation of electrical appliances.

When doing repairs in a house or apartment, many people have a lot of questions: what cable to choose, at what distance to place switches, at what height from the floor to install sockets, how to arrange furniture, how to hide wires, and many others. It is easier to answer them by studying the information about the rules for placing electrical appliances, the necessary current supply, taking into account their power, etc. You can get information in the special literature. If you carry out repairs on your own, it is better to consult a specialist about how high the sockets should be from the floor, the distance between them and which cable to use.

Using very simple safety standards, simple rules and common sense, you can achieve the most convenient location of such devices at home. It is better to correctly calculate and foresee everything in advance than to redo all the electrical wiring in the future.

Comfort in the kitchen is made up of many details. This is not only the availability of the necessary utensils, comfortable furniture, household appliances, but also properly located sockets. They play an important role, because most of the devices used by housewives are powered by the mains. Consider how sockets should be located in the kitchen, how to install and connect them correctly.

Classification system

There are four types of kitchen sockets:

1. Corner. The main advantage of corner sockets is the ability to place them in any convenient place. This is the junction of the walls, the space under the wall cabinet. There are single and modular, consisting of two or three.
2. Retractable. A great alternative to the inconvenient extension cord. Outwardly, they are a retractable unit installed in a countertop or cabinets, where it is protected from splashes and dust. Used to connect several electrical devices at once.
3. Hidden. These devices can be built into the countertop. By design, they are several connected sockets. Often have USB-connectors for charging mobile phones, tablets.
4. Overhead. Installation of surface-mounted outlets is simple. They are used only with open wiring equipment.

Also, these products differ in appearance, case material, and other characteristics.

Optimal quantity

How many outlets should be in the kitchen? Simple calculations will help answer the question. It is necessary to calculate the number of household electrical appliances used and add another 25% to the resulting number.

The list should include devices to connect:

• hoods;
• stoves (in the event that it is equipped with electric ignition, an electric oven or an induction surface);
• refrigerator, TV, other large appliances;
• built-in appliances, microwave, kettle, blender and others.

To this list, you need to add a few devices as a margin. You need to do this even at the wiring stage, because then adding new points will be problematic.

How to calculate power

To distribute power, it is necessary to determine how many units and what household appliances will be in the kitchen. After that, find out the power of each device and the features of its connection.

Approximate data on the power of conventional kitchen appliances are shown in the table:

More modern models of sockets can withstand a power of 3500 watts, so several devices are connected to them. Devices of old standards have a power limit of 1300 watts.

Basic wiring rules

Connecting kitchen outlets is subject to important rules.

1. The total power of household appliances connected to this outlet must not be higher than the maximum allowed.
2. As many lines should be drawn to the kitchen as needed to power all the equipment, plus the same amount.
3. If appliances with high power will work in the kitchen, it is necessary to start a separate line for them by installing machines on it.
4. Household appliances with a metal housing need a grounding system.
5. It is not recommended to install sockets behind refrigerators, ovens, hoods. The minimum distance from these devices is 20 cm.
6. When placing sockets, it is necessary to take into account their distance from the countertop. The best option is 15 cm.
7. Do not install sockets above the sink and stove.
8. Before starting installation, a detailed plan must be drawn up.

Altitude instructions

The location of sockets is subject to requirements regarding the distance from the floor. The scheme implies the presence of three levels:

1. Lower. Large household appliances are connected here. The height from the socket to the floor ranges from 10 to 30 cm.
2. Average. Used to connect most devices. They are located in the kitchen apron at a distance of 20 cm from the countertop.
3. Upper. Designed for extraction. The minimum height is 2 m.

Mounting Features

Consider an approximate plan for installing sockets in the kitchen:

1. Make a markup, indicating where which points will be placed.
2. De-energize the room.
3. Use an indicator screwdriver to check the absence of current.
4. Lay the main power cable, while installing circuit breakers or fuses.
5. Equip the cable insulation system. In concrete walls, it is laid in corrugated pipes, in plasterboard walls - in cavities. You can hide the cable in the skirting boards.
6. Install sockets. Run a cable through them. Attach to wall with mortar. Continue working after it is completely dry.
7. Disassemble the sockets into parts, removing the lining from them and separating the working mechanism.
8. Strip the cable 1 cm from the edge.
9. Connect the wires one by one to the inside of the outlet.
10. Fix the mechanism in the socket using screws.
11. Close the inside with a decorative overlay.
12. Start current. Check the correct connection using any household appliance.

If everything is done correctly, the check will be successful, the devices will work. If mistakes are made, the system will have to be completely disassembled and reassembled.

Possible mistakes

Errors are gross and minor. Here are some examples:

1. Ignoring safety precautions. Includes improper cable placement, lack of insulation, and neglect of the wall material.
2. Using only one power cable. When you turn on several household appliances at once, the line may not be able to cope with the voltage. Therefore, you have to connect one powerful or a couple of low-power pieces of equipment to the network, which is not very convenient.
3. The electric stove is connected to a common line. This error will cause the device to work poorly.
4. Devices located under the sink do not have the necessary level of protection against moisture ingress. If you put an outlet in this place, it must be marked IP44. The presence of protection is also important for those devices that are located in the zone of free access of small children.
5. For household appliances that work using water, there is no separate line. Sockets for dishwashers and washing machines, as well as for electric kettles and coffee makers must be grounded, and the line itself is equipped with an RCD. These precautions will help to avoid a fire in the event of a short circuit.

Minor errors include the lack of spare sockets, their inconvenient location, and the discrepancy between the color of the decorative lining and the overall interior design.

The placement of kitchen outlets should be approached with the utmost seriousness. The safety of households depends on how accurately all the rules are observed. It is important to strictly adhere to the recommendations regarding the location, height and connection of outlets.