Indoor plants care watering calendar. When is the best time to repot indoor flowers? What day. Lunar calendar for transplanting indoor plants

" Trees

A transplant for a plant is a traumatic operation, which is best done during a period of natural dormancy, then it takes place practically “under anesthesia”. This is especially true for seedlings with bare roots.

Most fruit trees are best planted in a permanent place after the completion of the growing season - in the fall. Tentatively, this is a month before the freezing of the topsoil. Some trees are best planted in the spring. Let's talk in more detail about the timing of planting seedlings of fruit trees, how to fertilize and properly care for them.

Determining that a tree is ready for transplanting is very simple. The main criterion is that the tree dropped half of the leaves. They are guided when planting apple trees, as well as all berry bushes.

The roots of bushes and trees do not have a dormant period; they continue to grow in winter. The optimum temperature for rooting is +4 ° C and above. Given that the ground does not freeze so soon, root growth continues almost without a winter break.

Varieties of apple and pear trees with insufficient frost resistance, as well as all stone fruits(cherries, sweet cherries, plums, apricots and peaches), best planted in spring. Moreover, it is necessary to do this as early as possible - until the moisture has left and the buds have not blossomed.

In any case, the landing pits are prepared in advance - for spring planting, for example, from autumn (August - September). The deadline for preparing the pits is 2 weeks.

How to choose a seedling for planting in the suburbs and other regions

In order not to throw money away and grow a really fruitful fruit tree, the choice of a seedling should be approached with understanding and responsibly.

Choosing a seedling with an open root system

Primarily, variety must be zoned.
To increase the likelihood of buying the desired variety, buy them in a specialized nursery, and not "from the hands" by the road.
Roots must be no shorter than 25 centimeters fresh and undamaged. The more branched thin roots, the higher the likelihood of success.
On the roots there shouldn't be any bumps is a symptom of root cancer. The cut of the root should be white.
Carefully inspect the trunk for cortical damage.

When buying a seedling with leaves, carefully cut them off - the seedling will not lose moisture.

Wrap the roots with wet burlap or newspaper in several layers. If the seedling is still dry, immerse it in water for a day or two, until the bark returns to its fresh appearance.

You can treat the roots with stimulants before planting(Kornevin or Heteroauxin) according to the instructions.

Especially make sure that the roots are not soaked. These areas will probably rot - they must be carefully removed to a healthy part.

Choosing a seedling in a container

Such planting material is more expensive. If you choose it correctly, you can land at any time convenient for you. Survival guaranteed...

How not to make a mistake

The easiest way to check how long a tree has been growing in a pot is to gently lift the plant by the root part. If the earth ball is removed along with the roots, you need to buy - the seedling "lives" in the container for a long time.

Additionally, it will help you make sure you make the right choice. a root that has grown through a hole in the bottom of a container.

When choosing a container seedling, of the two - take the younger one in age. Its roots are most certainly not pruned before planting in a pot for sale.

The tree is installed in a prepared planting hole, without violating the integrity of the earth coma. Watered and covered with prepared soil mixture without deepening the seedling.

Rules for planting a seedling in a garden plot at different times of the year?

The choice of a place for planting a fruit tree - it is produced once and for all, success or disappointment depends on this choice. If the place turns out to be unsuitable for a fruit tree, after a few years it will be impossible to correct the mistake.

Choose a sunny spot to plant, sheltered from the wind.. The close location of groundwater is unacceptable - a tree can successfully develop for 5-7 years, and when its roots reach the aquifer, it will die from decay. At this age, replanting a tree is already incredibly difficult.

Preparatory activities

Even the choice of soil is not so critical for planting a fruit tree. By improving the structure of the soil and the right top dressing, almost any area is suitable for gardening.

Landing hole preparation

Even in the case of fertile black soil, it is necessary to start planting a tree by preparing a landing pit. It must be dug at least a month before planting a seedling. During this time, the dug up earth will have time to compact. This is a factor of extraordinary importance - there will be no problems with the correct deepening of the root neck of the seedling.

Root neck - where is it?

It would be useful to clarify what this “root neck” is. Often, inexperienced gardeners take the grafting site for the root collar, and as a result, they deepen the seedling by an extra 10 centimeters. In fact, this is the area where the trunk meets the root. At this point, the dark color of the root turns into a lighter bark of the bole.

The most common mistake is landing in a fresh hole. Strictly speaking, it's not in the pit itself. Until the earth sags, it is very difficult to properly deepen the root collar of the seedling. It is known that it can neither be deepened nor exposed - the tree will not be able to develop normally in both cases.

After planting, the seedling should not experience a lack of nutrients, at least until it takes root. At this stage, very often, out of good intentions, gardeners “overfeed” seedlings with fertilizers.

It is especially dangerous for young plants to add fresh organic matter and too much mineral fertilizer to the pit. These two extremes act equally depressingly on soil microorganisms, namely, they help the roots of the seedling to absorb nutrients from the soil and air.

For a conditioned seedling of 1-2 years of age, it is necessary dig a hole about 80x80 centimeters in size and the same depth. In the process of digging a hole, fold the upper, more fertile layer separately from the lower one. Remove all stones and roots of perennial weeds. The bottom of the pit must be dug up with a shovel bayonet.
To the bottom of the pit to improve the water balance, it is desirable pour last year's leaves, house debris, wood ash. This will not only be good drainage, but also an excellent additional top dressing for the tree.
into the pit add 2 buckets of compost or humus, and proceed as follows.
One bucket is mixed with the more fertile soil of the upper layer and poured into the bottom of the pit. You install a seedling on this mound, straighten its roots and pour the second part of the compost directly onto the roots. At the same time, shake the seedling so that there are no air voids that are not filled with soil.
I water well t (minimum 2 buckets of water).
The pit is filled to the top. For this, only the upper fertile layer is used.
From the bottom layer of the earth form a root hole around the trunk circle.
Water again into the formed hole and cover it with mulch(peat, rotten sawdust, foliage, wood chips), this will not only retain water, but also prevent a dense crust from forming.

When planting, it is better to deepen the root neck insufficiently. This option is easy to fix by pouring earth into the trunk circle.

Planting scheme for fruit trees and shrubs

The density of planting trees depends not only on the species, but also on:

type of root stock of a seedling,
way of further formation,
site planning features.

The most common mistake novice gardeners make is planting too tightly.. It is very difficult to see trees at least 2.5 meters high in twigs of one-year-old seedlings in 10 years. The recommended scheme for planting shrubs and trees is given below.

and pears on vigorous rootstocks are located at a distance of 5 meters, medium-sized - 3.5-4 meters, dwarf - 2.5-3 meters. Columnar forms can be planted even after 0.5 meters in a row.

No less distance should be laid when planting seedlings near the house, this especially applies to tall fruit forms, and especially pay close attention to the location- over time, it will be a 10-meter sprawling tree.

To rationally use the area between the seedlings, plant currant bushes between the rows for the time being (in 10 years it will still have to be uprooted - the bush will grow old) or garden strawberries.

Caring for a newly planted tree in spring and autumn

After planting a young tree, in addition to feeding the seedling, there must be proper aftercare for it. The first time after planting, most seedlings need watering. There is an opinion among experienced old school gardeners that seedlings need watering for 2 years, even if they have taken root successfully. Even trees planted in autumn need to be watered until frost.. Only then will the tree grow strong and healthy.

No matter how great the desire to try the harvest from a young tree, the first flowers must be removed. This is especially true for the first year after planting, otherwise the tree will give all its strength to the first few fruits, and it will not be able to grow the root system and a developed crown.

In addition to watering, a young tree requires preventive measures to protect against pests and fungal diseases. Do not bypass them during each garden treatment. The loss of branches and leaves from pests or disease can be critical for a young tree.

Preparing young trees for winter includes:

mulching trunk circle,
whitewashing the trunk for the prevention of solar and frosty winter burns,
rodent protection and hares.

The mulching layer must necessarily cover the near-stem circle, not only in the summer to preserve moisture in the root zone. Mulch is especially necessary in the autumn-winter period. Even in the conditions of the Middle Strip and the Moscow Region, the roots of a tree or shrub seedling may suffer from freezing, especially if the snow cover is negligible.

Fertilizers and top dressing for a fruit tree

A well-filled planting hole provides nutrition for a planted tree for 2 years. In practice, it only needs watering.

Fertilizing the garden is carried out according to the established rule:

spring- nitrogen and organic fertilizers,
autumn- potassium and phosphorus.

Fertilization is usually carried out in the near-stem circles in early spring (1) or autumn (2).

Fertilizers are applied to the root zone at the rate of 1 hectare of the garden:

organic 300-500 kg (every 2-3 years),
inorganic N:P:K in proportions 1.5:1:0.6 (in terms of kg of chemically pure substance).

In addition to root dressings, gardeners often practice foliar dressings. In this case, the so-called “tank mixtures” are used - joint solutions of chemicals, for example, against pests and a complex of foliar dressings.

Foliar dressings, unlike root dressings, have an effect almost instantly. Through the surface of the leaves, they are absorbed by the garden plant after 4 hours. This process is especially active on the underside of the sheet.

Another "plus" of such processing- fertilizer consumption is minimal. For example, for nitrogen fertilizing, a solution of 1 tablespoon of saltpeter is prepared for 1 bucket of water.

The only inconvenience is that it cannot be processed immediately before the rain.

Another important point, it is better to “underfeed” the garden with any fertilizer ...

Conclusion

The optimal time for planting fruit trees depends on many factors:

From the climatic conditions of your region.
From the winter hardiness of the seedling.
From the type of seedling - container or with a "bare root".

In order not to get confused, Ukrainian gardeners have an old rule, which is all the more necessary for colder regions- all stone fruits are planted in spring, pome fruits - in autumn.

Every gardener wants to see his garden healthy, beautiful and abundantly fruitful. The key to good growth, lush flowering and harvesting is a properly carried out planting of fruit trees in the spring.

Unfortunately, the site owner does not always take this procedure responsibly, choosing the first available place for the tree, somehow organizing a planting hole, or placing seedlings too often, not taking into account their growth. In this case, it is not necessary to wait for early fruiting and a good harvest. How and when to plant seedlings of fruit trees in spring? Are there any secrets that allow plants to take root faster and start growing?

Planting dates for seedlings of fruit trees in spring

First of all, it is worth clarifying the timing of planting plants. The literature often indicates that autumn planting is preferred for tree seedlings, however, it should be borne in mind that this recommendation applies to the southern regions.

In the conditions of a long warm autumn, winter-hardy trees and shrubs have time to acclimatize and take root, enduring the winter quite well and starting to grow from early spring. The further north the garden plot is located, the greater the risk of freezing of the tree.

Therefore, in the northern regions, planting of fruit trees in the spring is more often undertaken. At the same time, it is possible to save seedlings of even the most heat-loving crops, as well as successfully transfer plants with an open root system to the ground. True, such a landing has one feature. It should be carried out as early as possible so that the seedling meets the beginning of the growing season already in the soil at its permanent place of residence. Still "sleeping" trees are not sensitive to the active sun and possible frosts.

When to plant fruit trees and shrubs in the spring, on which foliage has already appeared? Indeed, today at spring sales you can buy planting material already with opened buds and even leaves. Such bushes and trees cannot wait. But it's best to drop them off:

upon the onset of stable heat, when there is no danger of frostbite of the shoots and root system, especially at night;
in cloudy weather, when there is less risk of sunburn of the buds and foliage that is not accustomed to direct sun.

The specific dates for planting fruit trees and shrub seedlings in the spring depend on the climatic and weather characteristics of the region, the composition of the soil and the location of the site. As a rule, in the lowlands, snowmelt is less active, the soil dries out worse, which delays planting.

Whatever the time for planting seedlings of fruit trees in the spring, preparations for work begin in the fall, choosing a place for plants in advance and preparing planting pits.

The scheme of planting fruit trees and shrubs on the site

When looking for a place for a future orchard, you need to remember that for plants it is extremely important not only soil fertility and, but also lighting. For young plants, the site is selected so that the seedlings are in the light for at least half a day. At the same time, for fragile trees, it is necessary to provide protection from the cold wind.

For speedy acclimatization, it is advised to plant fruit plants the way they grew in the nursery. It is possible to determine the orientation of a tree along the cardinal points, starting from the age of two, along the length of the side shoots. On the south side, they are usually better developed than on the north.

But how to plant a seedling of a fruit tree in the spring if a three-year-old or older plant with an asymmetric crown was brought from the nursery? In this case, it is more useful to deploy it so that the short branches look south. In a couple of years, taking into account corrective pruning, the crown will become uniform and correct.

Mastering a new site, novice gardeners often make a serious mistake. When planting fruit trees in spring, they do not take into account that the height, width of the crown and the characteristics of agricultural technology in the planted species can be very different. The young garden looks well-groomed and grows amicably, but after a few years it turns out that a large pear completely obscured the undersized ones, and berry bushes are not visible under the cherry crowns.

Even at the planning stage, the exact layout of the trees is determined. The health of the plants and the yield they bring will subsequently depend on this plan.

How to determine the minimum distance between fruit trees when planting?

When measuring the distance between seedlings, they are guided by the total value of the height of neighboring adult trees. For example, a fruit-bearing cherry reaches a height of three meters, which means that there must be at least six meters between neighboring trees of the same species and variety. This will create all the conditions for development, as a result of:

the crowns of grown trees will not overlap and will not shade each other;
nothing will interfere with the pollination of flowering trees, the growth and filling of fruits;
much easier to care for the crop and harvest.

In addition, with such planting of fruit trees and shrubs on the site, the risk of infection of the garden with fungal infections and insect damage is seriously reduced.

How to plant seedlings of fruit trees in spring?

It is not enough to purchase high-quality planting material. Any seedling can die if the preparation for its planting was carried out "slipshod". The planting of fruit trees scheduled for spring suggests that the pits for them will be laid in the fall. If this cannot be done, and the summer resident takes the shovel in the spring, then at least two weeks should pass from the moment the pit is laid until the roots of the tree fall into it.

Two- or three-year-old, pears, plums and other stone fruits differ little in size, so they dig a hole under them at least 80 cm in diameter and the same depth. When planting a plant with a closed root system, it is convenient to focus on the size of the container, making the hole 15–20 cm wider and deeper.

To tie up a new garden dweller, a strong support is immediately driven into the bottom of the pit, which will help the plant maintain its verticality in the coming years.

Oddly enough, caring for a fruit tree does not begin after planting, but before it, with fertilizing and preparing the soil into which the seedling will fall. From autumn, fresh manure can be brought into the pit, which will overheat during the winter and will not have a burning effect on the roots of the tree. If the soil in the area is too acidic, it is limed or mixed with dolomite flour. If necessary, excessively dense soil is mixed with sand, and fertile black soil is added to the sandy loam.

H So that during planting in the spring the seedling of the fruit tree does not come into contact with manure or granular products, a layer of fertilizers is sprinkled with a small amount of fertile soil.

How are fruit trees planted in prepared pits in spring? Step by step:

The roots of plants with an open root system are straightened, if necessary, soaked overnight to restore tone to wilted areas.
On a cone of fertile soil, the seedling is installed so that the roots are freely located in the pit, and the root neck is five centimeters above the soil surface. You can check the correct installation of the seedling with a shovel.
The tree is sprinkled with soil, avoiding voids between the roots and under the trunk.

Planting a seedling with a closed root system is much easier. You just need to put a moistened earthen clod in a pit, check the level of the neck and sprinkle the voids with a substrate. At the end of the procedure, young trees and shrubs must be watered.

A video about planting seedlings of fruit trees in the spring will help you figure out the intricacies of the process on your own. Attentive attention to the needs of the plant and careful preparation will be a guarantee that the theoretical knowledge gained will be useful in practice.