Boris bagel about Ovsinsky's garden beds. Methods of natural agriculture B.A. bagel bagel fertile farming

When 80-year-old Boris Bublik is called a lazy gardener, he is not offended. On the contrary, he is proud. He is perhaps the most famous of the domestic permaculturists - people who believe that a good crop can be grown simply without disturbing the land with excessive care.

“Everything that we do with a shovel and a chopper is to the detriment of the garden,” says Boris Andreevich, “We loosen, dig, break through and think that we are doing well, but in fact we interfere with nature. We just need to help plants love each other - look for connections between them and make these connections work without our participation. This is the main principle of permaculture and natural farming.

In his garden in the village of Martovaya near Kharkov, the “smart sloth” works only three or four days during the summer, the rest of the time he simply harvests. His garden grows according to the principle of "edible forest" - almost without the participation of the owner. You can hardly call it well-groomed in the usual sense: the weeds that most gardeners weed out on the vine have the same “rights” here as potatoes and tomatoes. Sometimes the "smart sloth" even sows them on purpose.

- The older a person becomes, the more his body is saturated with a variety of harmful substances, which further leads to poor health. But there are ways to cleanse the body with different herbs, and each herb is responsible for its own organ, and when taken multiple times, it cleanses it.

- The land covered with a birch retains moisture perfectly. And note: I have neither a beetle nor aphids. This is because the smell of weeds “masks” all other smells, and pests are not interested in flying into my garden. At the same time, I don’t need to poison the vegetables with any kind of “chemistry” - it’s enough to spray Actofit once, at the beginning of summer, - says Boris Andreevich, demonstrating absolutely clean bushes of potatoes, peppers and eggplants. Guests from all over Ukraine come to Boris Bublik to learn the principles of "lazy farming", and for everyone he willingly conducts a tour:

For some reason, people got it into their heads that they only need to sow in rows, and when asked why, they explain: it’s easier to break through later. I sow in such a way that I don’t have to do this extra work later, - says Boris Andreevich.

For seeding without rows, he uses ordinary plastic bottles, only with holes in the bottom. This simple device allows the seeds to get enough sleep evenly. Holes can be made with an awl or a nail, then cleaned from the inside so that the size of each is less than two seed sizes - then it will turn out without clots. For radish, radish, daikon, there can be one bottle, for cabbage, mustard, rapeseed - another. In total, there should be about a dozen such seeders on the farm.

All my work is to scatter the seeds over the beds, and then wrap them with a flat cutter or rake, at the same time removing the weeds. Is this work? Boris Bublik smiles.

Another of his “lazy” planting devices is an ordinary wooden peg, with which the gardener makes small holes. He throws seeds of corn, beans or sunflowers into them - through a tube one and a half meters long.

“I sow without even bending over, and then I just lightly trample the hole—that’s all the effort. And you don't need any holes! "Eternal" beds are another pride of the permaculturist. Poorly harvested in August, onions and garlic give seeds, which, crumbling on their own, by spring give a ready-made sown bed.

Boris Andreevich tells in more detail about the "lazy" of his gardening in his videos ...

Boris Bublik on the organization of work in the garden:

GARDEN PERMACULTURE. Seminar by B.A. Bublik, in which he talks about his experience in farming, about how to make work in the garden not so forced and monotonous; how to achieve better success with less stress, moving away from some traditions.

Seminar by B.A. Bublik "Self-sufficient garden" (2012).

Boris Bublik on watering plants:

Seminar by B.A.Bublik "Garden without hassle". Part 1:

Seminar by B.A.Bublik "Garden without hassle". Part 2:

Boris Bublik - Gentle work in the garden (seminar):

Also, for those who are interested in garden permaculture, we suggest studying the new book by Bublik and Gridchin, which explores the most important farming technique - growing green manure. But, contrary to the established tradition, for the authors, green manure is not just green manure. They believe that such a “landing” of a phenomenon bearing a stellar name (“sidus” - star) is unlawful, that such a name could not be given to a means of banal replenishment of mineral reserves in the soil.

This book, created by the author's "tandem", accumulated many years of experience in managing large and small areas, allowing you to look at green manure as manna falling from heaven. And the authors collect this "manna", sort it, put it on the shelves.

A thorough analysis of sideration will undoubtedly attract the attention of a wide range of readers - without distinction of "faith". Everything that is said in the book can be useful both for the plowman who idolizes the plow, and for the farmer who manages in harmony with nature and considers this invention of Sachs to be disastrous for the Earth.

You can download the book There you can also download some other books by Boris Bublik.

Do you have your own approach to farming, your own system? And what do you call it?
Yes there is. The most accurate name seems to me, which
Unforgettable Terenty Semenovich Maltsev used - natural agriculture. The name is not glamorous, but informative rather than beautiful is preferable.
What would you call the main thing in such agriculture?
The name unambiguously defines the main feature of this
farming - almost like an oath in court: behave on the land you have inherited in accordance with Nature, be guided only by the prompts of Nature, do only what is pleasing to Nature.
And what are its characteristic features, what are its distinguishing features?
The concept of natural agriculture grew out of different types of apostasy from tradition, from “they were so robbed for daddy-pradída”. To describe natural agriculture in large strokes, it is difficult to do it more concisely and more fully than in Fukuoka's One-Straw Revolution. In a detailed list under a common roof, both original and “inherited” distinctive features peacefully coexist:
1. Any loosening of the soil is a shame! The minimum disturbance to the soil can be caused only for technological reasons.
2. At the heart of the weed control system is the steady care that a thin topsoil that is clear (in the spring) of weed seeds does not mix with soil richly “stuffed” with weed seeds.
3. No monoculture - only melange beds. The selection of crops is determined by technological considerations. In a sufficient variety of companies, even the problems of allelopathy can be distracted.
4. Protection of plants from diseases and pests is carried out exclusively by biological methods (joint plantings, biological preparations, taking into account the physiology of representatives of flora and fauna).
5. The purpose of crop rotations is changing radically. Instead of the traditional monitoring of predecessor crops (it only makes sense in a monoculture) - filling the beds, taking into account technological limitations. 6. The moisture supply of plants is realized mainly by retaining atmospheric moisture (precipitation and dew) and minimizing the evaporation of moisture by soil and plants. Irrigation is assigned only a corrective role in force majeure circumstances.
7. No plant tying. In need, plants are provided with semi-rigid support, prompted by Nature.
8. Most of the usual plant care operations are "assigned" to green manure.
9. Only undecomposed plant biomass in one form or another, from fallen green manure to fresh manure, acts as an acceptable fertilizer. All artificial fertilizers are excluded, including prepared compost.
10. No damage to the habitat. In particular, all the biomass grown in the garden should decompose in the beds under aerobic conditions.
What is the relationship between natural and organic farming?
Nature farming is an alternative to both classical and organic farming. Of the above characteristic features of nature-based farming, about half are not inherent in organic farming. For example, in organic farming there are no restrictions on loosening the land. But most importantly, the soul of organic farming is the compost produced, which is unacceptable in natural farming.
What do you consider the goal of your system, what are you striving for?
I want gardens to grow food, not crops. Food should not just become (according to Hippocrates) medicine - thanks to it, the need for the medicines themselves should fall.
I want vegetable gardens to require dozens of times less labor input, so that every exit to the garden brings satisfaction, and not an overgrowth from an overhanging block of work.
I want gardens to grow beauty.
I want vegetable gardens to become "pocket sanatoriums", so that the gardener can seriously consider where to gain health - in Karlovy Vary or in his own garden.
I want the garden to be a means of appeasement, a source of
satisfaction and happiness.
Why are you farming at all?
In a broader sense, I am looking for means to achieve the goals listed above - and not only for myself. For example, young potatoes are fabulously good in October, fed with EM silage of plums and watermelons, with cabbage fermented with physalis. And for the sake of this alone it is worth "hurrying in advance." But I want millions to thrill from the taste of such potatoes. And for this to happen, popularization of my system is needed. God has put a pen in my hands, and I must justify his trust. Not considering myself entitled to write off something from others, I “copy” what is popularized, mainly from my own beds. So I am engaged in agriculture, so that the beds correspond. God gives me the freedom to travel around Russia and Ukraine with lectures about my system of agriculture.
Every year I perform in dozens of Clubs. And I need to constantly improve the system, climb from step to step. That is, again, to engage in easy natural agriculture.
Who, what category of people, is your system best suited for?
In books and lectures, and even in the beds, I focus on "grandmothers", i.e. for gardeners, weighed down by years, but not overloaded with either means, or engineering training, or agility. I reason like this: if what I am talking about is feasible, in every sense, for “grandmother”, then it is not burdensome for both grandfather and girl. Those. there is more coverage. This is the main meaning of my orientation towards grandmothers. And as soon as a grandfather or a girl has a reserve of funds and / or agility, they can “attach” them without me. For example, a planting stick (for planting potatoes and seedlings) can be replaced with a more advanced “cracker”. But this tool requires serious work on metal, and grandmothers are not up to the task. Let's imagine that I have presented in a lecture information sufficient for a gardener to be able to make a cracker on his own. And rest assured it will. But one, at most two. What about the rest of the room? In a word, such an installation of the "sight" allows me to be, in words from the past, not an agitator, but a propagandist.
Thanks, Boris Andreevich! Our conversation was interesting and deep.
I was also interested. You, Dima, were corrosive and precise, like your famous namesake.

Boris Andreevich Bublik,
Master of Natural Agriculture

Since the summer I have been following the rule: as soon as the bed is freed, it should be immediately sown with green manure! When I invite guests to my place, I perform such a “trick”: I uproot a bunch of oats or wheat, lift it up ... And everything is silver on it, the worms are dancing, and that’s it - into a small black crumb 2-3 mm! Each such humus crumb in the spring retains two of its volumes of moisture!

Siderates are different. In general, sow what is, watch. Choose yourself.

After annual green manure in the spring, you don’t need to do anything: you scratched the grooves over the shriveled plants, which immediately crumble, and plant yourself. Worms have already loosened the earth for you! Here I am like the ancient Indians, who had nothing but a stick from their tools, poked holes in the ground with it and sowed corn!

But besides loosening, autumn sowing has another important environmental task. Not only do we not destroy the felt that nature has woven on the soil during the season, we strengthen it, add a layer. And already no rains, no winds and spring streams are not afraid of us. If you plow before autumn and do not hold the soil together, then during the winter a whole ravine can be born on the site! In the spring, in a nature-friendly garden, you will only need to remove the "pokes" from last year's vegetables into a compost heap and sow vegetables. 2 weeks earlier than the neighbors!

About garlic and other winter crops

First of all, one must learn to carefully read the Greatest book itself - the Book of Nature. Trust what is read in it more than information from all other books, do not slip into fruitless reflections like “But I read ...” and do not waste time and effort searching for alternatives to what you see in the Great Book.

For example, here is a striking example of mass psychosis purely on literary grounds. We read from book to book: “Winter garlic should be planted so that it does not rise before winter.” And thousands of gardeners are delaying planting - to Pokrov and even further, although the contradiction is already embedded in the very statement, lies on the surface. It is not good for garlic to decide when and what it should do.

The belonging of a culture to the winter type is determined not by our willful choice of the time of sowing and planting, but by the presence of a vegetative phase in the culture, which must be experienced in the pre-winter period.

In winter cereals (wheat, rye, granary) at this time, a root system is laid, capable of nourishing in the spring not one ear, but a whole bush - 5, 10 or 50 productive ears. This phase is called the tillering phase.

Winter garlic should also use the fertile pre-winter season so that the plants form a powerful root system and become invulnerable to any vagaries of the weather.

Well-rooted teeth are not able to squeeze out frost. Plants with roots overwinter in a state of anabiosis, i.e. ready for revival, and there is no need to shelter them for the winter. And this, in fact, deprives them of the "chance" to get wet or sweat.

And - most importantly - in the spring, when even the snow has not yet melted, the plants begin a lush vegetation without spending a comfortable, fairly short, cool time on building up the root system. So garlic is called winter garlic not because it is planted before winter, but because it has a phase, the flow of which must be ensured in the pre-winter!

Let us return to the Great Book of Nature. What I have been leading up to can be seen simply by looking down. Already in September, on the former garlic bed, you can see the "hedgehogs" of seedlings lost during harvesting heads. This is the tip of the wisest mentor - Nature. In our conditions, in Slobozhanshchina, the second week of September seems to me the most suitable time for landing. And do not check with what was written there and there. "Royal decree" is registered in the garden!

Winter garlic, it turns out, should be planted so that it gives friendly shoots in September.

Since it comes to that, the question naturally arises: “Is it possible to plant garlic even earlier?”

In the Kuban, where garlic ripens 2-3 weeks earlier than ours, garlic can be planted earlier. Ours is not worth it. The fact is that garlic cloves, like the seeds in a watermelon, are protected by germination inhibitors. And it takes some time for the inhibitors to decompose. One can imagine what would happen to the seeds lying for months in the moist warm pulp of a watermelon if they did not have protection from germination. If the garlic is planted too early, still protected from seedlings, and suddenly it rains, it will rot.

And garlic also has a property, which in English is called undersize. We are talking about a progressive drop in yield from a decrease in the size of planting teeth. Roughly speaking: if the planting clove is smaller than the other, say, twice, then the smaller clove will give a crop no longer 2, but 3-4 times smaller. I do not know of any other culture in which this property would be so pronounced. In any case, this property is not inherent in the onion - the brother of garlic - in the slightest degree: from an onion that is 10 times smaller, a turnip that is 10 times larger can grow.

This means that only the largest teeth are for landing. And if in the head among the five "brothers" there is one that is noticeably smaller than the others, it must be decisively rejected, even if it is - by itself - quite large. Needless to say, the selection for planting the largest teeth is not very popular?

Now about choosing the optimal moment to remove the arrows. Not removed arrows can reduce the potential size of heads by 5 or more times: the lion's share of the plant's attention is switched to the arrows. True, there are varieties in which "maternal feelings" are not so noticeable: in such plants, the head size decreases only by 20-30%.

And this garlic is left for seeds.

So it is necessary to remove arrows with air bulbs. But - not too early (this is a common mistake). When the arrow forms a full circle and prepares to make a second one, it's time to remove it. On the one hand, the “stump” no longer grows (which is why too early removal is unacceptable). And on the other hand, the arrow does not have time to "pull the juice out of the breadwinner."

Arrows must be plucked with a knife, with one hand. When the arrow is pulled out, the threads break in the depths of the false stem, the upper leaves may begin to fade before the lower ones, and this disorients the gardener when choosing the moment to harvest the garlic.

It is necessary to remove the garlic when the 6th leaf from the bottom dries out.

And when the leaves dry both above and below, then try to catch the moment when the 6th leaf would shrink by itself.

Let's sum up the preliminary results.
The secrets of successful cultivation of garlic are as follows: planting early enough (on the second week of September), selecting only large cloves for planting, timely (after the formation of the first ring) removal of arrows. The idea is clearly traced that in a natural garden the desired result is achieved without increasing physical and mechanical efforts, but solely by identifying and mobilizing connections in nature!

There is another important "action without hands."

I don't use garlic. I take care and cherish possible weeds.
They cover the soil, prevent it from heating up in the heat and make the life of cold-loving garlic more comfortable.

And since the garlic is harvested early, the weeds do not have time to seed, and they can be weeded without damage after harvesting the garlic - at the time of preparing the beds for the successor crop.

How could the myth that garlic should be poked come into being and completely take over the consciousness of gardeners? Poking is a tedious and unhealthy operation: the back, the veins on the legs, and the fingers get “nuts”. Timiryazev would say:

“Have you asked garlic if it needs poke?” I - asked, tried to sow garlic - and it turned out to be "five plus"!

I scratch a “good” groove with a flat cutter and water it so that the bottom becomes flat. Then (standing to my full height!) I scatter the teeth along the groove, push them apart with a flat cutter so that they lie in a “zigzag” 7-8 cm apart, then I fill the groove, sow some kind of yaritsa (say, mustard), close up the seeds , "soldering" them with a rake like a hoe, and ... I part with the garden for almost a whole year, before harvesting the garlic.

How have labor costs been reduced? 10, 100 times?

True, the neck of such garlic turns out to be crooked (because the planting teeth are lying, and the false stems are standing). Ugly? Yes!

A month (and even more) before “warm Nicholas” you can make “tea” from celandine, nettle, a shovel or other litter (or manure) and a shovel of ash that have begun a violent vegetation. Then feed the plant under the root with this infusion, immediately water it - and the garlic will receive a very appropriate, potassium-rich top dressing at this time. Is it work? Yes! And efficient!

Important side note. The most terrible, practically, indestructible pest - the voracious larvae of the May beetle - is planted by us ourselves. In the spring, we thoughtlessly add manure, humus, compost, etc. to the soil. With the smell of these fertilizers, we invite beetles (in late May - early June) to lay eggs in our area. Fly, they say, to us - our larvae will have something to chew on for 3-4 years! And then we do not know what to do with them, devouring everything. After I began to wonder what the garden would smell like by the end of May, these terrible larvae completely disappeared from me.

So, if the mentioned “tea” is introduced early enough, and its traces on the stems and leaves are immediately washed away by subsequent watering, then by the time of the summer of the Maybug, the garden will be deodorized and will be - from the point of view of the beetle - unpromising!

Reflections on the choice of green manure crops

When choosing crops, it must be remembered that, although it has a certain influence on the effectiveness of green manure, it is still secondary. In any case, one should not make concessions to choice at the expense of process. Everything that will be said in this paragraph must be treated with full awareness of this. Let's say the moment has come when the field is vacated and prepared for sowing, the weather is favorable, we would like to sow winter colza, but there are no seeds, they promised to "bring it up that week." And if there is mustard or oilseed radish (spring crops), it is necessary to sow mustard or radish. The "wrong" choice will almost always cause less damage than even one missed day.

Tue: When choosing green manure, it is necessary to take into account the biological characteristics of the crop (one-, two- or perennial, heat-loving or hardy, winter or spring, sitting still like red clover, or creeping like white clover, etc.), cultivation technology ( let's say a goat's rue that is weak in the first year needs a cover crop), subsequent impact on the soil, etc.

It's a good idea to go through the table of contents of Chapter 2 and see how this culture implements the corresponding function. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the current weather conditions, the characteristics of the soil on the field, the crop that will be grown after this green manure.

The most common and high-quality green manure crops are legumes: goat's rue, lupine, clover, sweet clover, alfalfa, sainfoin, vetch, broad beans, cow peas (cowpea), field peas (pelyushka), rank, etc.

From cereals crops, winter wheat, triticale and rye, spring barley and oats, sugar and bread sorghum, Sudan grass, paisa, cocksfoot, brome (stokolos), chumiza (Italian millet), fodder millet, ryegrass, fescue, bent grass, timothy grass, gray (non-spreading) couch grass.

are good cruciferous green manure: white mustard (English), gray mustard (sarepta), winter colza, winter and spring rape, oil radish, seradella.

Plants of other families are also popular as green manure: phacelia, mallow, buckwheat, amaranth, etc.

It is necessary to take into account soil and climatic conditions, crop productivity, and the chemical composition of dry matter. For example, on poor soddy-podzolic soils, it is advisable to sow sweet clover, sainfoin, lupine, and buckwheat. On heavy (mechanical composition) soils, crops and stubble crops of green manure are used.

When choosing a green manure, you need to weigh all set of factors. So, legumes, mustard and oilseed radish look the most attractive from all points of view.

Let's start with mustard. It comes in different varieties and types. White mustard is an excellent food. Its green mass is eaten by all animals. It is highly nutritious. It contains a lot of sulfur, which is very important for young animals, since sulfur contributes to the formation of feather and coat. Mustard powder is made from Sarepta mustard. There are salad mustards (black, for example). White and Sarepta mustard is used as green manure.

All types of mustards are fast-growing, early-maturing plants. They produce seeds in 70-75 days. They bloom yellow. The stems can reach a height of 1.5 m. In the initial period, mustard is sensitive to frost, and in the later phases it tolerates cooling to 7-8 degrees below zero.

With spring-summer crops, mustard reaches harvest ripeness in 37-40 days. Able to absorb phosphorus and potassium from hard-to-reach compounds. It is an excellent phytomeliorator and phytosanitary - it cleans the soil from pests, root rot and other diseases. Actively inhibits weeds, as it grows 3-4 times faster than them.

Mustard is grown mainly in repeated crops after harvesting the main crops. With timely sowing at these times, mustard develops in favorable temperature and moisture conditions and does not suffer from pests and diseases.

Before frost, mustard forms a yield of 250-300 q/ha. In winter, mustard holds snow, and then serves as mulch. This mulch should be saved for later work, and it will retain moisture, protect plants from weeds, diseases and pests, save weeds, and, ultimately, allow you to double the yield.

Spring crops are produced when the frost stops. If mustard is not grown for seeds, then at the beginning of flowering it must be mowed, and it grows well. It is cut into seeds when most of the pods are ripe. Mustard is well threshed, and the seeds are immediately suitable for sowing. After harvesting, a lot of seeds remain on the soil, and if the field is finely cultivated (for example, harrowed), then a second crop will be obtained even in unfavorable years.

Recently, mustard as a green manure has become very popular. But she is not such a "swell". Oil radish, for example, has a number of advantages over mustard: it is more productive, reliably suppresses weeds in the most weedy areas, and can protect potato foliage from scorching sunlight. But we must take into account the price of seeds and the seeding rate. And then it turns out that radish seeds cost twice as much as mustard seeds.

In total, mustard is just one of about 40 cruciferous crops, each of which has something that mustard lacks. Winter cruciferous plants (rapeseed, colza, typhon ...), in addition to direct work on the well-being of the soil, can also be used to feed livestock during the period of spring fodder, and as a fairly early mulch, and as an excellent predecessor of late crops. They practically do not suffer from flea, while young spring plants are difficult to dodge from it - which is why cruciferous plants work best in the fall.

High-yielding, early-ripening and regionalized crops are selected for post-cutting crops. In practical work in the crops, preference should be given to corn. It compares favorably with other late spring crops. Its large seeds can germinate from a depth of 10-12 cm, and this allows it to be planted in the lower well-compacted and better-moistened layers. This is very important for re-sowing when the topsoil dries out quickly. Maize has a powerful root system that goes 1.5-2 m deep. This allows it to use the water of deep layers, which was not used up by its predecessor crop. Corn can absorb dew and light precipitation (up to 5 mm) better than other crops: drops of moisture fall on the leaves like a funnel, flow down them to the base of the stem and are absorbed by dew-collecting roots.

In addition, corn is drought-resistant and consumes moisture very economically (it has a transpiration coefficient (relative moisture costs for the formation of dry matter) of 250-320, while wheat has 400-450, oats has 450-500, and peas have 500-550, for alfalfa - 750-900). And this means that with the same reserves of moisture in the soil, corn can produce a larger crop.

All this is true, but it is probably not superfluous to recall that we are talking about the times when the problem of seeds was not as painful as it is now. Today, it may turn out that the choice will have to be made in favor of “capricious”, but more accessible cultures.

In our latitudes, sugar sorghum also has a high yield. This culture is characterized by high drought tolerance and heat tolerance. The root system of sorghum has access to moisture from soil layers that are inaccessible to other plants. In addition, sorghum has a valuable biological feature - the ability to "freeze": with a lack of moisture, they temporarily stop, and after precipitation, the growth and development of the plant resume. This skill is especially valuable for repeated crops, when hot and dry periods of varying strength and duration are established. Unlike sorghum, in corn, with a lack of moisture in the soil, growth stops, and development continues.

BA: Everything said by Vitaly Trofimovich about sugar sorghum can be repeated about bread sorghum. I had the opportunity to observe his life during the incredibly hot summer of 2010. Even corn "burned" like fried in a pan, and sorghum was unaffected by the heat - it "outlasted" the heat, and in October it was green, as in May.

Sudanese grass is effective in post-harvest crops. As a plant of continuous sowing, the Sudanese forms a dense vegetation cover, as a result of which the useless consumption of water for evaporation from the soil surface is sharply reduced.

Sorghum and Sudanese have small seeds. Therefore, they are embedded by 4-5 cm. With a shallower incorporation, they fall into dry soil and do not germinate. Sparse seedlings are also obtained with too deep embedding. Therefore, sorghum and Sudanese crops should be approached very carefully: they should be sown in moist soil at the optimum depth. If the top layer of soil is dry, then it is better to refuse sorghum and Sudanese and sow corn or sunflower, which tolerates deep seeding well.

I have some (albeit bitter) experience with sowing Sudanese. For a long time I was haunted by memories of a chic Sudanese woman on the collective farm fields in my native Kuban village of Afipskaya. "Dorval". Sowed. Twice. But with the same "success". Seedlings were not only sparse, but simply rare. It is understandable: at that time I did not know the subtleties that Vitaly Trofimovich spoke about. It is curious that the seeds of the Sudanese did not wake up even when heavy rains passed. It looks like the vast majority of the seeds "twitched", and then - at the stage of white threads - froze. Forever and ever.

Drought tolerant and heat tolerant sunflower. It has a well-developed root system and extracts moisture from a depth of 2 m. Therefore, like corn, it is one of the best crops for re-sowing with insufficient moisture. In addition, it tolerates frosts down to minus 3-5 degrees without damage. Therefore, its mid-season varieties are especially effective in late crops.

In the Non-Black Earth Region and in the North-West, in conditions of sufficient moisture supply, undemanding to heat and frost-resistant white mustard, winter and spring rapeseed, fodder cabbage, oil radish, swede, turnip, oats, annual and high ryegrass, sowing peas, pelushka, vetch are effective , rank, lupine, saradella, phacelia, mallow. Attractive are mixtures of these crops, selected so that the plants are biologically distant from each other, but close in terms of maturation.

At the very beginning of this paragraph, it was said that the choice of crops, although it has a certain influence on the effectiveness of green manure, is still secondary. In any case, one should not make concessions to the choice of culture at the expense of process. However, this remark should not be taken as an absolute. If circumstances permit, it is a sin not to take the opportunity to choose.

An interesting - in this sense - experience is shared by the Averyanovs (Astrakhan Club of Natural Farming). In their estate green manure is sown, consider, all year round. In their role, Sergei and Yulia, in addition to traditional cultures, use flowers and spicy crops with might and main. And this not only amuses the eyes of the owners, but also invites all kinds of beneficial insects into the garden - pollinators and predators:

Oilseed radish (pictures were taken in the Averyanov estate, Astrakhan).

Lofant - amazingly beautiful green manure, smelling of chocolate.

Cineraria (left), Cellosia paniculata (red) and Ageratum (white flowers).

In addition, the Averyanovs manipulate green manure when selecting suitable predecessors for garden crops. So to speak, they do not accept the situation as something predetermined, but “correct” it for greater benefit. It can be said that Sergei and Yulia act like real Michurinists: they do not adapt to nature, waiting for her favors, but carefully provoke her, “set up” so that she bestows them. Not cultures are selected for the predecessor, but the predecessor - for the culture. A trifle - but what a significant one!

So, in the spring of 2010, the Averyanovs chose the best predecessor for carrots. They sown it on four beds: after vetch, phacelia, oilseed radish and just under mulch (for control). It turned out that the “sparse” bed gave twice as much yield as the control one. At the same time, the early sowing of vetch and phacelia had practically no effect on the carrot yield.

The photographs compare the carrot harvest after different predecessors.

Just do not underestimate vetch and phacelia as green manure. Their beneficial effect on the biocenosis will still manifest itself. But in the short term, the allelopathic effects of their residues on carrots may outweigh the merit. Many cultures are aware of the "quarrelsome nature" of wikis. After its incorporation, it is recommended to wait 3-4 weeks - it is clear that such a large delay in sowing for carrots is unacceptable. But the allelopathic nature of the "quiet" phacelia is less known. For many years I tried to sow phacelia to cucumbers. She, they say, is good both as a backstage, and as a “barker” of pollinating insects, and as a support for cucumber lashes. All this is so - except for the existing "trifle". Cucumbers in her company felt clearly oppressed!

In a word, in the "solid residue" of the Averyanovs' experience - such bonuses:

• Oilseed radish has proven to be an excellent predecessor for carrots (obviously, other cruciferous plants (mustard, spring and winter rape, colza, turtledove) are just as good, and the experience deserves to be extended to other vegetables;
• For the sake of cruciferous green manure, it is even worth shifting the sowing date for carrots.

But then I visited a Pick-Up farm, where the townspeople pick berries and vegetables for themselves, pay for them and take them away (by the way, the name of the pickup truck was born). The field is divided into beds half a kilometer long and crops “roll” over it during the season. When the crop is harvested, the bed is cultivated, compost and plant residues are embedded in it, then a special machine lays a drip irrigation hose in the center of the bed, covers the rows with black film and sprinkles its edges with earth, and then the planter punches holes in the cover and inserts a pot into them with seedlings. Just in my presence, late zucchini were planted in the place of early tomatoes (although it was in August, it’s not too late for the latitude of Tbilisi). So the row spacing - for all vegetables - was 70-80 cm, and the paths between the beds were about a meter. The paths “eat up” 60-70% of the area, but this is beneficial for the farmer, because it is technologically justified. He constantly counts money, he earns it, and you can believe him that he has found the optimal ratio of the width of the beds and paths. We "save" 20% of the area, toil and trample all 50%.

Separately - about the beds on potatoes. And because it is the most common culture in our country, and because it seems that the beds do not ask for potatoes. There is probably no person - neither urban nor rural, who did not see the revival in the gardens during the days of planting potatoes. After landing - until the very cleaning - there is no such crowd anymore. One digs holes, the other throws tubers into them, the third - a handful of humus or ash, the fourth shovels with a rake, the fifth spreads the "tablecloth". Idyll? Alas, the digger is facing the row! And this means that he presses the next row with his supporting foot, throwing tubers, ashes, etc. walk in front of him and trample on the newly planted row, the worker with a rake rams the entire bed again and only the one who spreads the “tablecloth” is unconditionally busy useful thing.

The potato is a plant whose stems, roots, and especially stolons, have relatively little growth power. Everyone saw the asphalt reared up with poplar, couch grass, burdock. Has anyone seen potatoes? I would even suggest that potatoes would rather “choose” poor, but loose soil, than fertilized, but compressed. And we trample on it… The operation with the rake deserves special words. This is truly robbery! And it's not just about additional trampling down the soil for the sake of "cosmetics". It is difficult to come up with anything more harmful than a smooth “beautiful” surface in a spring garden. The first rain forms a crust on the original soil, and the subsequent ones drain from such a bed as from a board, taking with them both moisture and soil particles. At the same time, the “ugly” bumpy surface captures “both rains in May” entirely.

Not only that: the mounds left after landing serve as free traps for the bear (kapustyanka). These mounds warm up better than any other surface, the bear gives nests under them at its own three inches from the surface, and at the first weeding these nests become easy prey (along with the "guardians"). And this way of dealing with Medvedka seems to us the most effective.

Well, okay, with a rake it's simple: "no rake - no problem."

And what should I do? Yes, just turn sideways to the row! It looks like this in more detail. The holes of the first "extreme" row are being prepared. Then the digger stands sideways in the aisle of the second third row and, backing away, digs the holes of the second row and closes the holes of the first. All the same - only sideways! "Throwers" follow in the footsteps. Having passed the row, the procession turns around and goes back along the same aisle: at the same time, the holes of the second are closed with soil from the holes of the third row. Then everyone moves to the next even-numbered aisle, that is, between the fourth and fifth, then between the sixth and seventh rows, and so on until the end.

There is only one difficulty here - the orientation during the first pass of an even row spacing. But it is worth noting the dug row with the help of a lace with two wire pins (or pegs) at the ends, and the difficulty is removed! And as a result we get:

A foot does not step into a single hole or between them - until the very cleaning;

Odd aisles remain untrodden, and loose soil remains in them for

hilling;

All current work (weeding, the fight against the Colorado potato beetle) is carried out from the "paths" - even row spacing;

in loose odd aisles after hilling, you can grow beetroot with a fist, cabbage (from late seedlings) with Siberian-sized heads of cabbage, daikon, “elephant’s tusk” with mammoth’s tusk. Moreover, since “beds” are formed on the site, future paths will be created by manually digging the earth may not dig at all.

It is curious that in the "near" environment, planting potatoes "sideways" is introduced with difficulty.

Of course, those who were not afraid of a chock with pegs now generally do not understand how to plant potatoes differently. Having tried, this technique is no longer abandoned. But the majority keeps saying “we need it fast” and remain at their own. There is only one consideration. Which would justify the stubborn (if indeed landing "face" was more productive than landing "sideways"). Usually, all planting material is brought to the field and it must be planted “in one session” (do not bring it back!). But there is no problem here either: the remaining seeds can be dug up and returned to them at least a week later, dug tubers in the spring soil behave as if planted, give sprouts and roots at the same time, and their subsequent planting does not lead to any losses. But there is some benefit: due to the forced pause, stalled and diseased tubers are identified and rejected.

In fact, there is no operation that would slow down the work when landing "sideways", and, in addition, there is an interesting counter question: what is the goal - "landing" or collecting? After all, less compaction of the soil is obvious! Yield increase too! BUT here the argument “they have been doing this all their lives” already comes into play, but there is no reception against scrap.

On a plot laid out in a garden bed, the soil dries up less, roots are not injured, bushes and branches do not break off, current work and organization of crop rotations are more convenient. And on a potato plot, beds are formed automatically when potatoes are planted "sideways", and not "face" to the row.

Compost and composting

The word compost could be replaced by "homemade" humus, if it were not for the latter's widespread use mainly to refer to old, rotted manure. Compost is the same humus, only obtained in the process of decomposition of any organic waste (including manure). Soil microorganisms and the wider soil fauna attack the remains of dead plants and animals and convert them into a soil-like substance, humus, which forms a useful growth medium for plants. Thus, sacrificially passing through composting, dead plants and animals lay the foundations of a new life. The words compost and composting reflect the dynamics of the decomposition process, compost is humus plus undecomposed remains of organic matter.

A bit of history

The history of composting supposedly begins with the first primitive plants, the remains of which were transformed by small colonies of bacteria into a life-giving substance. However, its historiography is not young, the oldest known written reference to composting is more than four thousand years old. It was found in the Mesopotamian Valley on clay tablets from the time of the Akkat empire. Compost was known in ancient Greece, in ancient Rome, and is described in detail in the Talmud.

Already at the first steps of agriculture and animal husbandry, a person undoubtedly noticed that the harvest was much more abundant, where the manure was located, “connected” the crop and the manure and began to consciously apply composting. And until the middle of the nineteenth century, the farmer depended on compost, which supported the productivity of his fields and fed both "one with a bipod" and "seven with a spoon."

But in the middle of the nineteenth century, a dramatic incident occurred, science took agriculture for more than a hundred years on a disastrous dead end path of chemicalization. The Earth paid dearly for the mirage of "fertility factories" on wheels. In the meantime, everything started off quite well. In 1840, Eustace von Liebig (his law of fertility was mentioned above in the paragraph “No to conflagrations”) published a monograph on chemical agriculture. Prior to Liebig, the humus theory prevailed in agriculture, according to which plants actually “eat” humus as they grow.

Liebig disproved this theory by arguing that plants get their nutrition from known chemicals in solutions. And since humus does not dissolve in water, Liebig simply excluded it from the number of significant plant growth factors. Amazing haste! To reduce to simple solutions the most complex biochemical processes of converting nutrients in the soil in a form available to plants? Well, if the humus does not dissolve, then ... “we don’t need such humus”? And for a hundred years, farmers forgot about farming systems that copy nature, about the circulation of leaves in the forest and grasses of the steppe, and began to build "factories in the field." "Fixed" the nature ...

Only in 1940, after the publication of the "Agrocultural testament" by the English scientist Albert Howard, did the painful return of agriculture to natural organic methods begin. Since 1942, the efforts of Rodale began the development of a regenerative farming system in the United States, and then in other countries. Rodale's son Robert organizes the release of The New Farmer magazine.

But back to compost and humus.

After Liebig established the insolubility of humus in water and its "uselessness" for plant growth, attempts were repeatedly made to examine humus "closer". It turned out to be a tough nut! And only in the 20th century it was possible to isolate the most important component of humus - humic acid, and after that, using the finest research methods (in particular, using radioactive carbon), "rehabilitate" humus as the main source of nutrients for plants. In particular, it was found that:

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Bublik B.A. — GARDEN WITHOUT THE HASSLE 2 lyrics

"Nature is ruled by those who follow its rules"

Boris Bublik is a well-known specialist in joint plantings, author of the books Restorative Agriculture, Your Garden: An Unusual Approach to Common Things, Friendly Garden, Melange Garden, About a Garden for the Lean and the Lazy.

Traditional gardening is exhausting. Works in the garden are monotonous, emergency, sometimes require the utmost effort and not everyone can do it. Bublik, widely using the modern experience of peasants and farmers from different countries, which allows him to save money, time, strength and health of the gardener, talks about his experience in farming, about how to make work in the garden not so forced and monotonous; how to achieve better success with less stress - moving away from some traditions; how the regenerative system of agriculture is more convenient than those methods of cultivating the land that have been formed over the years and have become familiar and routine for many vegetable growers; about the location and compatibility of cultures (allelopathy).

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Trust in nature in the garden

How to make a garden less demanding and costly, organize joint plantings, learn how to benefit from weeds, properly water and fertilize, use natural solar energy batteries - Boris Bublik, a well-known specialist in natural agriculture, generously shares his experience and practical recommendations. If you want to make your work on earth easier and get healthy and tasty food, this book is for you!

Sowing calendar for 2017 with…

Do you want to grow a rich harvest on your site, preserve the beneficial properties of each vegetable and fruit, improve plant growth with the least means and without chemical top dressing? Then correlate each type of work with the position of the moon - and notice how crops react differently to different lunar days. The sowing calendar from Tatyana Borshch will tell you when and how best to plant, hill, weed and feed your plants in order to get a bountiful harvest and preserve all its useful ones ...

Manna from heaven - in the garden. Almighty…

The new book by Bublik and Gridchin explores the most important method of agriculture - the cultivation of green manure. Many years of experience in managing large and small areas allows the authors to look at green manure as manna falling from heaven. And the authors sort this "manna" and put it on the shelves. The author's "tandem" accumulated many years of experience in managing large and small areas, allowing you to look at green manure as manna falling from heaven. And the authors collect this "manna", sort it, ...

Garden for the smart, or how not to harm ...

A new book by the famous Ukrainian master of alternative farming B. A. Bublik is dedicated to completely extraordinary views on loosening the soil, fertilizing, weeding, heating, tying, spraying, pruning and many others, defining such plant care operations that have no suitable analogues in nature. The solutions proposed by the author to these problems should not burden the gardener with additional waste of time, effort and money. But even so, they should not in the least...

Smart garden all year round

For many years of managing in harmony with nature, the Ukrainian B. A. Bublik (pictured on the right) - on hundreds of square meters, the Russian V. G. Gridchin (pictured on the left) - and on hundred square meters; and thousands of hectares have accumulated an “arsenal” of tricks, tricks, techniques that reduce pressure on the shoulders of the farmer, and on the biocenosis, and on the environment. Some of these finds are scattered throughout the "devil's dozen" books of the authors, and some have become the property of folklore. Collected "under one roof", these reasonable techniques will bring undoubted benefits ...

We build a garden in harmony with nature

The new book of the famous Ukrainian master of alternative agriculture B. A. Bublik is designed not only for gardeners, but also for all people who are not indifferent to the future of the Earth.

The book is devoted to the problems of transition from traditional farming, which is rapidly destroying the Earth, to natural farming. The author's emotional style of presentation corresponds to the sharpness and relevance of the topic.

About the garden for the thrifty and lazy ...

The book is intended for summer residents and gardeners. “I hope that with its help they will be able to get around the rake that we, their predecessors, stepped on. However, even a very experienced reader in gardening will find in the book a lot of things that he thinks about, thinks about, tries, and, having tried, replenishes his arsenal ", - Bublik B.A. The book describes a conservation farming system that produces consistently high yields at a lower cost. Suitable agricultural practices are discussed in detail. Critically...

Bublik B. A. - About the garden for the thrifty and lazy

In memory of my father.

Preface.

You fly over Norway, admire the fiords, rocks, snow (in July) and involuntarily wonder “How do people live here”. But when you come home, you go to visit, and on the table ... Norwegian stew. This is with our black soil. Poland, from its podzols, has been supplying us with vegetables and poultry for many years. Grain floats across the Atlantic from America, which has such a narrow strip of black soil along the 100th meridian that it does not even have a word of its own for it, but manages with our black soil. Not annoying?

I so want our agriculture to be restorative too. To take care of the earth, they introduced compost and composting, covered the soil with plants and mulch all year round, introduced magical joint planting of crops. So that we can work easier in our gardens, torment the earth less and collect more on it. So that we judge how we worked, not by how we got drunk, but by how we succeeded. That's why Lean and Lazy are mentioned in the title of the book. It is only necessary to reorganize not to fight with nature, but to look closely, learn from it.

But ... look at our gardens: conflagrations, dump plowing, bare soil for 9-10 months a year, monoculture ... So work hard, and spend yourself and the garden to the detriment? I have visited many countries. He took a keen look at the local agriculture. I lived in America for over a year. Traveled the northeast of the United States far and wide - from Delaware to Ontario, from Cape Cod to Buffalo. Seen enough of the farms, orchards and orchards. I re-read a lot of literature - from soil science textbooks to the popular Idiot's Guide series ("guide for an idiot"). Much of what he saw, heard, read is reflected in the book. But - only adapted to our conditions, tested. All practical techniques and advice have been checked, everything can and should be trusted.

The book is intended for summer residents and gardeners, primarily beginner enthusiasts. I hope that with its help they will be able to get around the rake that we, their predecessors, stepped on. However, even a reader who is very experienced in gardening matters will find in the book a lot of things that he will think about, think about, try, and, having tried, replenish his arsenal.

My wife Tamara and daughter Oksana were the first to strictly but fairly judge my sketches. “From the layman's point of view,” as they said. My brother-in-law Vlad was an assistant in literary research and a kind of sparring partner. Severe opponents were the owners of a well-organized village farmstead Vari and Vasya Skoriki. Literally did not give me a descent Victor Dobrinsky, who ate the dog on summer problems. Scattered observations were built into a concept with the help of Julius Fishman, whose friendship I am very proud of. So if something reaches the mind and heart of the reader - their common merit, and if not - my personal fault.

Dedication to the father is not just gratitude to the sons. Kuban Cossack and grain grower from an early age, he had a premonition of restorative agriculture. I think that he would have honored it with his most “generous” praise “and there is little, little”.

Chapter 1. PRINCIPLES OF RESTORING AGRICULTURE.

Restorative agriculture is defined by 4 principles:

Respect for the soil

Compost and composting

Year-round soil cover

Joint plantings.

This system of agriculture is also called saving, regenerating, organic. There is nothing new in it, nothing from the evil one. Everything is copied from Nature, everything “mother” worked out for many millennia. All you need is close attention to her experience and ... a little thrift. A little lazy.

Respect for the soil.

Words about careful attitude to the soil sound dirty and trivial. Who is against? And yet... We are burning the lion's share of what was born on it, interrupting the cycle of life on Earth. We confess moldboard plowing, destroying the life of the soil fauna - the main (and only) architect of the soil. And, having plowed, we trample between plants and rows all season and ram the soil. That's all you don't have to do. That's what the mention of laziness is for. Soil, the main factor of agriculture, must be handled with care. As with a living being - unrequited to malice, but responsive to affection. There is no need to set fires on it, endlessly plow, dig it, trample on it, keep it naked, poison it with herbicides, pesticides, mineral “fertilizers”. I put the word fertilizer in quotation marks, because it only seems to us that we are fertilizing the soil with some kind of nitroammophos - in fact, we feed algae in the sea and oceans, and they take away oxygen from all living things around.

It is necessary to spare the soil, saving resources, time, strength and health - hers and yours.

No fires!

In autumn and spring, one cannot find such a corner where bonfires from fallen leaves, corn fire, sunflower stalks, dried tops and weeds do not blaze up to the sky. And the matches are struck not by mischievous boys, but by zealous “owners”. I'm not talking about the disasters from the fires that arise here and there. It's just about the ruinousness of the fire, whether in the garden or in the garden, for the garden and vegetable garden themselves.

Explanations for fires are the most decent: to get the ashes, put things in order, burn the seeded weeds, fight pests.

No doubt, ash is a very valuable fertilizer. It contains up to 30% potassium, which is very necessary for plants. But I just want to ask the “producers” of potassium - “Have you tried to set fire to a haystack, a barn ...?”. That would be potassium! And the harm is not much more than from a fire in the garden.

On trips around America, neither in spring nor in autumn, neither in urban nor in the countryside, did I see a single fire. Fires (in cities) - I saw. But these are accidents, perhaps even malicious intent. But there are no bonfires made with good intentions! On farms and gardens, all organic residues and waste are composted. In cities, leaf litter and grass from lawns are collected in bags and laid out at the side of the road. And the municipal services take them out for processing, after which the former leaves and grass are returned to the garden stores as fats of valuable (in every sense) compost.

By the way: Christmas trees are also laid out on the roadsides after the holidays, and a special machine collects the trees and grinds them into chips (chips). The chips are then painted in different colors and used to mulch flower beds, playgrounds, gaps between the barn and arable land, between asphalt and lawn - and there is neither dust nor dirt! Beautiful, clean and comfortable! America is also rich because it is frugal.

The sunflower grew, and, say, a kilogram hat on a 5-kilogram stem was born. All this biomass was formed due to the soil, and due to air, and due to solar energy. The contribution of air and the Sun to the formation of biomass can be estimated by looking, for example, at multi-ton trees. Plants take a lot from the air and from the sun. It would seem that you grind all the seeds from the sunflower, and return everything else to the soil. And she will be richer, much richer than she was in the spring.

The statement about the enrichment of the soil with sunflowers may seem strange, the sunflower is reputed to be a decent “glutton”. And by right. After the sunflower, such amaranth, quinoa, and spurge grow that a sparrow cannot hide his knees in them. It is true that the sunflower takes a lot from the soil, but this is only part of the truth. He takes a lot, but on loan, and at good interest. And it is our business to choose whether to be a usurer or a spendthrift.

The sunflower is taken as an example. All of the above can be attributed to pumpkin, corn, beans (primarily) and many other crops. There are few exceptions: carrots can deplete the soil (with Canadian crops), potatoes (with Dutch crops), root parsley, transplanted before autumn on a windowsill.

But back to the sunflower. He grew up. And no one except him knows exactly how much nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, molybdenum, copper, boron, zinc, calcium he needed ... But he got it all. So do not let the wind acquired by the wind. Give back to the soil.

In 1840, the outstanding German biochemist Eustace von Liebig formulated the law of fertility: the yield of a crop is determined by the component present in the minimum proportion of demand. The meaning of the law can be explained by such a conditional example. Let 20 g of nitrogen, 5 g of phosphorus and 10 g of potassium be needed to grow a unit weight of a certain crop. And plants have access to 40 g of nitrogen, 8 g of phosphorus and 15 g of potassium. The present shares of requirements for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are 40/20, 8/5 and 15/10, respectively, i.e. 2, 1.6 and 1.5.

Next page

The famous gardener Boris Bublik presented a series of articles that will allow using simple means to revive the fertility of the land, forget about watering and weeding. He is convinced that not a person should work for a garden, but a garden for a person.

Pyramid of Ovsinsky

In the world of science there is a unique phenomenon - Ivan Evgenievich Ovsinsky. The fate of both Ivan Evgenievich himself and his offspring, the New System of Agriculture, is tragic. With a series of articles in DACHA, I want to knock off at least a fraction of the debt of descendants to the outstanding agronomist of the late 19th century - to transfer to garden beds the unsurpassed system he created for the fields. It gives me impudence to understand that I have taken up a real business: I see a lot.

A lot has changed in the 130 years since he created the system, so I'll start by introducing the means necessary for success. However, these means are meaningful in themselves, outside the system.

Ivan Evgenievich erected a foundation (pyramid) - he described the important features of plant physiology that determined the success of his system. Some of them:

• revenge of the plant to the farmer for adversity with flowers and fruits;
• edge effect;
• conscious craving of roots for sources of nutrition and moisture.

How plants take revenge on us

The revenge of a plant should be understood as follows: while it is well, it vegetates with might and main. But as soon as it feels discomfort - it is too hot or cold, too hungry or dry, or it drowns in streams of water, it wakes up, “remembers” that it has not yet fulfilled its parental duty, and begins to bloom and bear fruit.

Memory warms such an episode associated with an untimely deceased friend) Vitaly Trofimovich Gridchin. One autumn Vitaly brought me to his sister's site in Mayskoye near Belgorod, led me to a convenient vantage point and, squinting slyly, asked: "What's wrong here?" I took a closer look. The whole area was covered with fine (over a meter) mustard, dark green, not yet in bloom. And in the middle of the garden there were two flowering rectangles of mustard, but ... only knee-high. "Did these pieces grow tomatoes?" I asked. "Well done, Andreich, sit down, five!" was the answer.

The nightshade and cruciferous families are mutually allelopathic (when plant secretions inhibit the growth of other plants - ed.). In the ground where the tomatoes were, there were secretions that oppressed the mustard, and that, "out of revenge", went into color before it grew.

More fruitful on the edge

The second phenomenon used by Ovsinsky is the edge effect. If there is an unoccupied place next to a plant, then it strives by all means to seize it for its kind.

The system of Ivan Evgenievich was interstriped: a six-row strip 30 cm wide occupied by wheat and the same free strip. And if in ordinary winter crops 5-7 spikelets in one outlet is considered a good result, then Ivan Evgenievich had up to 50 full-weight ears in the rosettes of the extreme rows. And the total yield reached 50 c/ha in the driest years. By the way, in the middle rows, the rosettes were also full-bodied - they were cramped, and they "avenged" Ivan Evgenievich with ears of corn for adversity.

Roots closer to the kitchen

The third phenomenon is that the roots of plants consciously direct their run in the direction of sources of nutrition and moisture. Consider a representative photo of smooth (water) tomato roots grown in different water regimes.

The photo on the left shows the roots of a wild tomato that did not know watering. They rushed, as befits them "by status", down - after the moisture leaving little by little. The average tomato knew watering for several days, and then they stopped until the end of the growing season. The reaction of the tomato was predictable: it began to bend upwards, and then continued its “regular” downward movement. And the right tomato was watered regularly, and its water roots were located under the very surface of the soil.

Another picture is no less expressive. The tomato grew next to the kitchen, where there was plenty of moisture and nutrition, and the roots rushed in her direction in a "friendly crowd".

Plowing, which itself waters the earth

But back to the pyramid. The next "slab" is the most important. Small two-inch plowing can be called the mover of the Ovsinsky system, its wheels. It is she who provides the condensation of atmospheric dew (on a hot day - up to 2 liters of water per 1 m 2). The "new system of agriculture" in the ongoing severe droughts of the late 19th century steadily produced 50 quintals of wheat per 1 hectare. Worthy guide!

Revival of the slain lands

In future articles, we will discuss a possible "New Farming System" pyramid for the vegetable garden - taking into account today's realities. True, for 130 years the earth has known many troubles, and we will have to not only think about the new, but also reanimate the well-forgotten old. For the benefit of the garden, consider the gigantism of plants, learn how to manage moisture and forget about watering. Let's create beds for which the word "weed" will be a curiosity. We will use the power of half-light and with the help of EM technologies and mycorrhiza we will begin to revive the dead soils.